The Life Reef Skimmer Club

soulpatch said:
Tired and true does not mean other methods are not better. Otherwise we would all still be riding horses to work as opposed to driving. Everything evolves and has initial hiccups. With all the people happily running DC pumps in one fashion or another coupled with some of the bigger name brands stepping into the game your statement is a bit over the top.

Even swapping out the mag pump for a sicce is stepping away from the tried and true with a more efficient version of the mag in the sicce...
Click to expand...

would love to agree with you but I can't based on my experience with dc pumps. and I will continue giving them negative reviews based on my experience. and you can yours. it's a lifereef forum. the skimmer itself hasn't changed in 20+ years. food for thought.

also I've always driven a car to work. never rode a horse on my commute before.
 
WBrian said:
Hi All!
I think I'm new to the club, probably. I'll know for sure once I get a pump andplumb in a new sump today.
I have a few questions, though. I bought a used LR skimmer. It had a few cracks that were repaired with acrylic glue. It holds water with no leaks. As such, I got it for 20 bucks without a pump. How can I tell what unit it is? I'm pretty certain it's a SVS-23, as it has the flange that thumbscrews together and a 6-1/2 square base. How can I tell if it's the in sump or external unit? The red gate valve has a rusty screw in the middle of it, which I find weird. I assume I can replace it with any gate valve from HD, etc, right?
The valve itself should be out of the water when installed, right? So I'll have to build an eggcrate stand for the skimmer, I guess...

It'll be replacing a Coralife Super Skimmer 125. Which is a PITA to keep dialed in, but works at very dry skimming...

I'll post some pictures in a few minutes. I'm waiting for them to get to my iPad...

Thanks!
Brian
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Welcome to the club! Your Lifereef looks like a SVS3-24. The 3 means it has a flange at the top of the body to allow cleaning (rarely needed) or expansion by adding another section. The 24 refers to the total height of the skimmer, 24".

If the skimmer holds water, you can run it in sump or out, your choice. The gate valve can indeed be replaced by a valve from Home Depot, they are 1" threaded valves.

The valve does not need to be out of the water. In fact some folks here have their outlet submerged in order to cut down on splashing water in their sump. The Lifereef is largely insensitive to sump water height. The major effect of water height is that the valve will need to be more open if submerged. You can set the valve by trial and error, I believe Jeff recommends starting out with the water/foam interface about 1/2" below the level of the flange, and adjusting from there for wetter/drier skim.

Enjoy your skimmer!
 
GatorAlum05 said:
would love to agree with you but I can't based on my experience with dc pumps. and I will continue giving them negative reviews based on my experience. and you can yours. it's a lifereef forum. the skimmer itself hasn't changed in 20+ years. food for thought.

also I've always driven a car to work. never rode a horse on my commute before.
Click to expand...

You should stick to giving negative reviews for the coralvue. To lump all into a single bucket is irresponsible. I found the tunze 9001 skimmer i had for a nano to be horrible yet I do not condemn all skimmers...

And yes the lifereef hasn't changed though that does not say we wont find a better way one day. It still only removes around 30% of organics. Can you imagine if we found a way to remove say 50%?
 
soulpatch said:
You should stick to giving negative reviews for the coralvue. To lump all into a single bucket is irresponsible. I found the tunze 9001 skimmer i had for a nano to be horrible yet I do not condemn all skimmers...

And yes the lifereef hasn't changed though that does not say we wont find a better way one day. It still only removes around 30% of organics. Can you imagine if we found a way to remove say 50%?
Click to expand...

you go measure your numbers. i could care less about 30% this or 50% that. i only experience with what works for me. sorry if my experience upsets you. but i actually don't care. not going to debate on what is good or "could" be better. more often than not it's all marketing ploy. i've spent enough money to know.

i only deal with my experience. but you are more than welcome to search for the golden egg.
 
Thanks!
I went to a LFS (Atlantic Sea Farms in Virginia Beach) looking for a pump, as I had a 50.00 gift certificate I just won at a meet. I wanted to pick up a DC pump as a new return pump and then put my existing Quiet One 4000 on the LR Skimmer, but he didn't have any. So I picked up a Mag 12, used, for 75 bucks. Should be plenty of pump, I'd think from what I've been reading here. This thread is a great source of information, but man oh man is it long!

Do the make an all plastic gate valve? The rusting of a screw in my tank gets me a little Leary, honestly!

Got my 20L sump swapped out with a used 40 breeder I picked up. Working the next couple days, so probably won't the LR installed until Monday...

Thanks again!
Brian

Yogre said:
Welcome to the club! Your Lifereef looks like a SVS3-24. The 3 means it has a flange at the top of the body to allow cleaning (rarely needed) or expansion by adding another section. The 24 refers to the total height of the skimmer, 24".

If the skimmer holds water, you can run it in sump or out, your choice. The gate valve can indeed be replaced by a valve from Home Depot, they are 1" threaded valves.

The valve does not need to be out of the water. In fact some folks here have their outlet submerged in order to cut down on splashing water in their sump. The Lifereef is largely insensitive to sump water height. The major effect of water height is that the valve will need to be more open if submerged. You can set the valve by trial and error, I believe Jeff recommends starting out with the water/foam interface about 1/2" below the level of the flange, and adjusting from there for wetter/drier skim.

Enjoy your skimmer!
Click to expand...
 
WBrian said:
Thanks!
I went to a LFS (Atlantic Sea Farms in Virginia Beach) looking for a pump, as I had a 50.00 gift certificate I just won at a meet. I wanted to pick up a DC pump as a new return pump and then put my existing Quiet One 4000 on the LR Skimmer, but he didn't have any. So I picked up a Mag 12, used, for 75 bucks. Should be plenty of pump, I'd think from what I've been reading here. This thread is a great source of information, but man oh man is it long!

Do the make an all plastic gate valve? The rusting of a screw in my tank gets me a little Leary, honestly!

Got my 20L sump swapped out with a used 40 breeder I picked up. Working the next couple days, so probably won't the LR installed until Monday...

Thanks again!
Brian
Click to expand...

Have you been on the lifereef web site.. Lots of info there..
 
i have a question before i make the leap!
i currently have a reeflo running for my return. its only running about half capacity. i was wondering if i bought the external VS3-30 skimmer if i could plumb the skimmer into this return and be ok?
the site recommends using a BlueLine 30HDX pump which is rated at 1110 GPH.
the reeflo is rated at 3600 GPH. i think i should be pretty close to what i need and was just looking for a second opinion.

SO,
do you think i will be able to run my return for this skimmer?


everything is almost all plumbed and ready for this....im wondering if its meant to be!?:dance:
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Any particular reason why you don't like the skimmer running like this? I have no problem running a seperate pump if needed. I'm starting to think if a 30 inch is even needed maybe it's overkill? It's going to be for a 150 display and 50 sump. Medium to heavy bioload and mixed reef
I could always jump down to a 24
 
I think the issue with manifolds in general is the flux in GPH to the skimmer or other items as things clog. Typically though you would have reactors or other things also plumbed.

I cant say I see an issue with having the return branch off for the skimmer as well so long as that is all you are adding. Should you wish to start putting on reactors or things then I would do a standalone pump for the skimmer.

Should also note for me personally I would want them seperate. There are times I dose phyto or such that I want the skimmer off for an hour or longer but want my return running so my fuge gets "fed" as well. Linking them on a manifold eradicates this ability.
 
I understand. I have a valve on the line I can run to a skimmer so I can shut off what's needed. I see what you're saying about the "flux" in the gph. I never adjust the valve on the pump. I just unplug it if needed since it messes with my overflow.
 
The one thing I hate about this skimmer is the o-ring seal around the cup. It's a pain to get to seat right. Did anybody modify or have a good way to get it not to roll right to the top. Thought about machining a groove in the cup where it meets the skimmer and going with a larger o ring.
 
I have never had an issue with the o ring. I place it about halfway on the cup then set it in and it may roll up but it's still makes a good seal
 
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