lucubrator
New member
drierite is the name of color changing CaSulfate with Cobalt Chloride. It changes from blue to pink/purple and is ~$8/lb for the 1lb size and gets a little cheaper when you get larger quantities.
Thumbs up for Ozone!
- Thread starter joelsaxton
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anyone know if beckett injectors are ozone safe? i started using one of the beckett air intakes to pull in air off my 50mg/hr generator which is connected via a T and check valves so that my skimmer still pulls in air also. well this injector started making a clicking noise... the other one doesnt seem to have any problems right now. so i am starting to wonder what is going on. (i will take the becketts apart tomorrow to see whats going on)
i should mention that i have only been using ozone for the last 4 days or so, 24/7 on a 180 gal tank with roughly 230 gal water vol total. Do you think that this is an adequate amount of ozone to be able to run 24/7 on this size tank? , I have neither a monitor or controller right now...
vmichael
New member
lucubrator said:
Best way to recharge the desicant I have found is as follows.
Get yourself a couple of NEW empty paint cans with lids from the paint store or paint department.
Fill these about 90% with the desicant. Bake them at 350 for about an hour. Use 1 and and when its time to change you fill it with the other and re-charge the the used one. You always have 1 ready to go.
vmichael
New member
Gaidin said:
Your probally ok for now BUT you really shouldn't run it without a controller or a monitor. How are you going to know how much ozone you have in the tank. Besides, a monitor gives you an idea of what is going on in the tank.
You spent a lot of money on your reef, don't blow it.
Travis
10 and over club
It is pretty easy to figure out the mesh size. Just line a few beads up along a ruler and see how many it takes to make 1" and that is the mesh size. I haven't measured them yet but I'm guessing they are about an 8.
So does anyone know if the drierite "indicating" are better than silica gel beads? It costs about twice as much. It also needs to be recharged at a much higher temperature and for a much longer time period. From the pics on the site it looks like there is less of a color change with the drierite compared to silica gel beads. The silica gel beads start out dark blue and end up light pink while the drierite starts out light blue and ends up light pink. I also noticed that on the drierite site it says that after a while the drierite may not look blue after it has been recharged several times due to color indicator migrating towards the inside of the drierite over time.
So does anyone know if the drierite "indicating" are better than silica gel beads? It costs about twice as much. It also needs to be recharged at a much higher temperature and for a much longer time period. From the pics on the site it looks like there is less of a color change with the drierite compared to silica gel beads. The silica gel beads start out dark blue and end up light pink while the drierite starts out light blue and ends up light pink. I also noticed that on the drierite site it says that after a while the drierite may not look blue after it has been recharged several times due to color indicator migrating towards the inside of the drierite over time.
Travis
10 and over club
I just checked the mesh size of the red sea beads and they came up to be about a 6. But that is hard to determine because the bead sizes are very inconsistent. If you took all small beads you could get a 10 and if you took all large beads you could get a 4. So I would say any mesh size from 6-8 would be similar.
captain7359
Active member
Where can I get info on the silica beads so I can compare the silica and drierite beads. My O3 reactor is getting closer to done slowly but surely and I have to fab up a drier shortly. What volume of beads is everyone using in their drier setup. I figure the more the better, but all I really want to shoot for is 2 weeks between recharging while running 24/7 with 5-10 l/hr of air or less through the generator.
You could try contacting the folks at www.veritemp.com. They were pretty quick in responding to some of my queries (and their price isn't too bad).
lucubrator
New member
Captain- let us know what they tell you. I'm sure they'd prefer one person asking a quesiton than all of us.
captain7359
Active member
Veritemp -
We recommend re-generating bulk silica gel for 5 hours at 220 deg F. Some companies say 16 hours at 245 deg F. We feel that is an overkill and a waster of energy costs (running an oven for that long can be very expensive). The number of re-generations will vary...with each re-generation the overall capacity to adsorb will diminish. Here is a MSDS sheet for your review. Our silica gel will adsorb 35% of its weight in moisture at 80% RH at 25 deg C.
If you need the MSDS pm me.
Density of the silica is 43 lb/cubic ft per their site.
Drierite -
The density of Drierite is about the same as water. One lb. is about 16 ounces. Mesh means "granules per inch". 4 mesh is about 1/4" granules, 8 mesh is about 1/8" granules, etc. Hope this helps.
If drierite density is the same as water then it is about 62.4 lb/cubic ft
Drierite clains it has a water capacity of 10 to 14 weight percent
Thats all the info I have gotten. HTH.
We recommend re-generating bulk silica gel for 5 hours at 220 deg F. Some companies say 16 hours at 245 deg F. We feel that is an overkill and a waster of energy costs (running an oven for that long can be very expensive). The number of re-generations will vary...with each re-generation the overall capacity to adsorb will diminish. Here is a MSDS sheet for your review. Our silica gel will adsorb 35% of its weight in moisture at 80% RH at 25 deg C.
If you need the MSDS pm me.
Density of the silica is 43 lb/cubic ft per their site.
Drierite -
The density of Drierite is about the same as water. One lb. is about 16 ounces. Mesh means "granules per inch". 4 mesh is about 1/4" granules, 8 mesh is about 1/8" granules, etc. Hope this helps.
If drierite density is the same as water then it is about 62.4 lb/cubic ft
Drierite clains it has a water capacity of 10 to 14 weight percent
Thats all the info I have gotten. HTH.
vmichael
New member
Reefdude3 said:
Not sure.. mine goes through an O3 reactor; the effluent from O3 reactor goes into the sump where pump for the protein skimmer is. I have T at the exit of the O3 reactor that has a 1/4" airline and it draws any excess O3 into the protein reactors venturi.
I'm have an AquaCEV-240
My carbon is at the other end of my sump. All water has to pass through that chamber before it's pumped back into the refuge or the display tank..
Reefdude5
New member
Thanks Vmichael. Any other ideas.
Plus a couple of concerns.
After doing some research, it seems that Ozone could be reducing the yellowing agents in the water without getting rid of the actual organic molecules we are aiming for. Secondly, if there is enough light penetration, do we not want some bacteria in the water for SPS to feed on. It seems that if Ozone kills bacteria in thee water to a certain extent, this could be detrimental.
Last point: i'm concerned about the various oxidized species that Ozone creates when it reacts with various molecules, like creating a type of bleach when reacting with bromide (i think it's bromide). I want to make sure that these harmfull molecules are taken out of the post ozone water with GAC.
Any ideas on getting the effluent water to go through carbon off a Euroreef?
Plus a couple of concerns.
After doing some research, it seems that Ozone could be reducing the yellowing agents in the water without getting rid of the actual organic molecules we are aiming for. Secondly, if there is enough light penetration, do we not want some bacteria in the water for SPS to feed on. It seems that if Ozone kills bacteria in thee water to a certain extent, this could be detrimental.
Last point: i'm concerned about the various oxidized species that Ozone creates when it reacts with various molecules, like creating a type of bleach when reacting with bromide (i think it's bromide). I want to make sure that these harmfull molecules are taken out of the post ozone water with GAC.
Any ideas on getting the effluent water to go through carbon off a Euroreef?
juststartingout
New member
Thanks to all for the interesting reading! I seen that someone had asked this in an earlier post, but I must have missed the answer. Since the addition of an ozonizer, and increasing ORP, had you noticed a definite reduction of undesirable algea's and/or cyano?? (With no other husbandry changes)
I also have an Aqua-C 240, the ozone should be ported into the 1/4 JG fitting @ the top of the mixing chamber correct? Will I need a pump, the skimmer should "pull" the O3 into it, right?
I also have an Aqua-C 240, the ozone should be ported into the 1/4 JG fitting @ the top of the mixing chamber correct? Will I need a pump, the skimmer should "pull" the O3 into it, right?
vmichael
New member
juststartingout said:
re: the AquaC EV-240 yes, to both questions.
re: answer to 1st question NO, I have not. But the water is clearer! I still have some cyano but it is only in the refuge tank.
It has always only been in the refuge tank.
I suspect that my CA reactor is putting out too much nutrients as well as CA. The Coraline looks great! But I wonder if the CA reactor also puts out other nutrients which Cyano feeds on.
NO doubt adding the O3 has increased the ORP level and made the water clearer. Other then that I have not seen any other benefit so far. I have been running O3 for almost 2 months now.
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