Thumbs up for Ozone!

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delv said:
Albet Thiel hasn't written a book in over 10 years...according to his last written work I'd still have his Super Tech bioballs in the Platinum 3 wet/dry I sold 8 years ago...
And a redox reading of "over 300", while adequate, is less than impressive...I have constant redox readings of over 400 ORP with no ozone (clean probe, of course)...I've been thinking about using ozone again (I have all of the equipment sitting idle)...just haven't found a good reason with my current parameters/set-up...

d.
Click to expand...

Very little will be alive : below 100 millivolt
Very Bad : below 140 millivolt
Bad : 140 to 180 millivolt
Poor : 180 to 200 millivolt
Too Low : 200 to 220 millivolt
New salt water : 220 to 240 millivolt
Low : 220 to 270 millivolt
Medium : 270 to 310 millivolt
Good : 310 to 340 millivolt
Better : 340 to 360 millivolt
Best : 360 to 390 millivolt
High : 390 to 450 millivolt
Too high : over 450 millivolt
Dangerous : over 525 millivolt
Very dangerous : over 575 millivolt
 
Well I got a Red Sea 100mg plus yesterday, After about 5 hrs with it just monitoring to stabilize the probe it read about 305. I then turned on the OPR setpoint to about 315mg at about 20-30mg an hour. It reached 315 in a couple hours. So far I'm running it on a euroreef with a T and no airpump, there is only a little suction through the air dryer so I'll have to wait and see if this will work out well or not.
 
Also I have a question, silicone is O3 safe right. Right now I'm not running carbon on the output of my skimmer but have carbon in the sump. One thing I'm a bit worried about is the seals in my sump which are silicone from glasscages. Also I had to get some tubing from the LFS and I'm not sure if its O3 safe, its a more rubbery kind of airline tubing not the really cheap stuff with the thin clear wall. I think my stuff is made by Lee.
 
zanemoseley said:
Also I have a question, silicone is O3 safe right. Right now I'm not running carbon on the output of my skimmer but have carbon in the sump. One thing I'm a bit worried about is the seals in my sump which are silicone from glasscages. Also I had to get some tubing from the LFS and I'm not sure if its O3 safe, its a more rubbery kind of airline tubing not the really cheap stuff with the thin clear wall. I think my stuff is made by Lee.
Click to expand...
The green silicone will work. Just feel it to see if it become brittle. I don't run the return water over carbon. But I do use a bag on top to reduce the O3 coming out the vent holes on top of my skimmer.
I wouldn't use a "T". How do you know how much air is going thru the unit vs. the open end. I have mine right from the RedSea unit to the skimmer. I can feel the suction on the open end of the air drier.

Carbon
 
It seems if you just hooked the Redsea straight to the venturi it would create too much back pressure on it reducing the air going through it unless you use an air pump, if you run all your air for the skimmer through the dryer then you'll used the dryer beads quickly. Jeremy at PA said the ozone may melt the tubing together but I'm gonnna keep an eye on it. Also if my ORP isn't going up then I'll know the T isn't working well at getting the O3 to the skimmer and I can put a needle valve on the free end of the T so that the back pressure is about the same there as the O3 line which would then draw more O3.
 
Member No. 1 said:

I wouldn't use a "T". How do you know how much air is going thru the unit vs. the open end. I have mine right from the RedSea unit to the skimmer. I can feel the suction on the open end of the air drier.
Click to expand...

Use a 'T', If you don't you will be reducing the air to your skimmer. I have one side of the 'T' hooked to ozone and then to the desiccant drier and the other side hooked to an air filter. If you are using the color changing desiccant you will 'see' that you are getting plenty of air through the ozone unit.

It just doesn't make sense to reduce the efficiency of a more important component of your system to increase the efficiency of a less important component.
 
To go back to the first page. :D
joelsaxton said:
I have an unresolved bubble algae problem that I'm hoping my new naso tang will take care of.
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I have never sean a Naso eat bubble algae.
Has anyone seen them do this.
Sean
 
i had a fair amount of bubble algae, added 3 emeralds and its all gone now, within about 2 weeks. I only see them at night, so I cant imagine anyone would "witness" them eat it.

I dont think all of them do, but its about your best bet
 
The biggest bubble algae eater I've seen is my sailfin tang. I've tried emeralds but they never seemed to touch, however they did go for my sps polyps so I don't keep emeralds anymore. I have a foxface, which is what I originally added to combat valonia in my old 75. He did a wonderful job but he had to be weened off of prepared foods to make him hungry enough to go for the valonia. I now have the foxface in my 280 along with the sailfin. The foxface will occasionally nip at some valonia but the sailfin tears the valonia apart as soon as it sees it. I honestly think my sailfin likes valonia more than any other algae that has grown on my rocks.
 
I have both a sailfin and a foxface,,, both are about 5 inches long in a 150 gal tank, neither of them touch it, once i got the emeralds its gone.

Just goes to show its all about the LUCK of the Draw!
 
The thing I think's funny is people say you can manually remove bubble algae as long as you don't pop them and release the spores. The funny thing is how the hell do these people think the emeralds eat bubbles, they pop them and eat the skin, they don't swallow the whole bubble, therefore they "release" the spores by eating them.
 
zanemoseley said:
The thing I think's funny is people say you can manually remove bubble algae as long as you don't pop them and release the spores. The funny thing is how the hell do these people think the emeralds eat bubbles, they pop them and eat the skin, they don't swallow the whole bubble, therefore they "release" the spores by eating them.
Click to expand...

If I were to guess at it, they pop the big ones, but the other way around, they start small, so the emeralds eat those whole and keep the tank clean off them, I have seem some bubble algea real small :D

about the topic off hand, I just got my enaly and its kicking some serious behind, being T off an MR-2 :D

sam
 
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