Thumbs up for Ozone!

Status
Not open for further replies.
MM.....you're right....you're a wuss. You probably will see a slight improvement in your water clarity....and maybe a slight increase in skimmer output.....since low levels of ozone seem to enhance skimmer output while higher levels tend to reduce output.

In my case, since my tank has so much depth, I use 500mg/hr on about 1100 total gals. At this level, my tank water stays very clear....however, the level is high enough that it actually decreases my skimmer output a bit.....but, like I said, the water is crystal clear. I was over to mojoreefs tank a couple of weeks ago and he is running 800mg/hr on about 800 total gals....but, he has big brass ones....while I have only small glass ones....
 
I think Imbecility's cousin, Boneheadedness, lives in my spare bedroom.

I run 100mg/hr continuously in a Euroreef, it shouldn't matter if it's fed in one or both of the Becketts IMO as long as it's reacting in the water column.

Ozone is so reactive and short -lived I doubt enough will make it out of the skimmer to worry about carbon. My skimmer outflow feeds to my "frag rack", and the SPS bathed in that water have never been happier.

The "tank nuking" stories are mostly urban legend, though I did read a recent first hand account ("Dirtyreefer") of a tank nuking, actually a fish nuking, that involved a 200mg generator in 46 gallons with a drunk reefkeeper who forgot to turn it off.......

John
 
I notice most folks comment on how fast they run in the ozone, but not many use ORP to determine their levels. Is it simply b/c you don't have a way to monitor ORP, or don't believe in the numbers?
 
steveweast said:
MM.....you're right....you're a wuss.

That's because of the results incurred when I 'bravely' marched into the Crystal Sea/Instant Ocean fiasco of a few years back. Nowadays I sterilize my fish food. :p
 
OK, I've read thru this a few times, but just want to be 100% clear on a few things...

1) I am planning to run the ozone with my MRC MR3 skimmer. I saw Travis' Tutorial, on a larger MRC skimmer, but just want to clarify the hook up to the skimmer. I understand that you would want to make a "tee" before the needle valve, but I'm assuming that you would also want to have some kind of carbon filter between the ozone port, and the side of the tee that draws fresh air? That way if skimmer shuts off, the ozone doesn't just flow right out and into the air? What is the best way to do this? Just use a piece of PVC with carbon in it?

2) Also, and this is pretty basic, would I want an ozone unit with the air pump, or without? I would plan to go straight from the ozone generator to the skimmer. Since I live in Arizona (VERY low humidity), and my tank isn't big enough to produce much humidity in the tank room, I'm going to skip the air dryer.


Thanks!
 
If you're going to use your skimmer as your reactor for ozone you do want to let the venturi draw it in, it will do this without an air pump on the ozonizer. So yes, create a T and add it to the input on one side.

Carbon on the other side of the T seems like it would only solve part of the problem. If the skimmer isn't running and the ozonizer is the skimmer would fill up with ozone which would eventually enter the room.

Rocknut what are the chances your skimmer would stop but you ozonizer would still be running ?
 
I guess I'm just a little concerned because when the skimmer's waste collector fills up, it shuts the skimmer off. I'm assuming that the ozone would flow the opposite way, away from the skimmer and right out the other side of the air feed. Thats why I was wondering if I should carbon on that end.
 
If the ozone is being used without an air pump and the skimmer shuts off what would be pulling the ozone into the skimmer. Seems like the ozone would just build up around the ozonizer.
 
Fred_J said:
If the ozone is being used without an air pump and the skimmer shuts off what would be pulling the ozone into the skimmer. Seems like the ozone would just build up around the ozonizer.

Assuming this is a closed system, airline feeding the ozonizer to the T at the skimmer and the carbon filter on one side of the T, the ozone would enter the skimmer because there would be less back pressure inside the skimmer.

It would only accumulate at the ozonizer if there was a leak there, in which case it would never have reached the skimmer running or not.
 
Because the skimmer is "pulling" air towards it, does that mean that I should get an ozone generator that icludes the air pump, or not? I'm looking at the Enaly from Ebay, which can be purchased either way.
 
rocknut said:
No, it just shuts off the air flow.

I'm honestly not sure how it works :) maybe the link will explain better...All I know is, the skimmer levels drops to nothing and the air flow stops.

OK, I'm familiar with their setup.

So how likely is it that you're skimmer will fill up and fill the extra waste collector to the point where it shuts down the skimmer ? That's a lot of skimmate out of a 68 gal. tank.

It's a good idea to be prepared for all the potential scenarios, but do it realistically.

We use very little ozone, on a 68 you might run 20mg, maybe more initially. It would take quite a while for the small amount to become a problem in even a small 10X10 room.

I run 40mg in room that's about 9X12 and when I shut down my skimmer to clean it and do other maintenance I don't turn off the ozonizer. I can just barely smell the ozone after an hour in that room, and only when I go near the skimmer.
 
rocknut said:
Because the skimmer is "pulling" air towards it, does that mean that I should get an ozone generator that icludes the air pump, or not? I'm looking at the Enaly from Ebay, which can be purchased either way.

No need for the pump.
 
Awesome, Reefvet. I sure appreciate all your help. As alot of MRC owners will attest to, these skimmers have a tendancy to "go nuts" from time to time. I'll have everything all set level wise with the skimmer, go to bed, and wake up to find the waste container filled up with a slighty green tinted gallon of tank water. I love the skimmer, don't get me wrong, but that is pretty common from what I understand. Thanks again for all the help!
 
Your welcome. Just make sure to keep observing your tank for any sudden changes and you'll be good.

The skimmer 'going nuts' is usually due to something that's been added to the water.
Some foods have binding agents that can cause this and doing a water change with water that has been treated with something like Novaqua will definitely cause your skimmer to go off.
 
Hi all experience ozone users.

I have a sander ozone unit and intended to hook up. But find it very puzzle. My question is this.

1. I have Redox Probe from IKS and it currently reads 428mV. This even without dosing ozone into my skimmer. I wonder whether it is wrong value. But i recalibrated it again and again with my redoz solution (230mV) still it went from 230mV to 400+ range. I thought my probe is wrong but a check with IKS, it says it doesnt matter whether it reads at 420 or 220mV. it boils down on how constant the probe is.

2. My friend has a probe too but not from IKS, it reads 250+mV and dosing ozone to 350mV. and maintains there.

We all have the same behavior when we do a water change, the reading will go down to 100+ or 200+.

I wonder all probes have different values? SO if should i dose ozone and set the limit to 450mV or 500mV? Although the water in my tank at 420mV still not that clear or clean.

Pls advise.
Thanks in advance.
Stanley
 
Mine is in my overflow. You need to get it in as high of a current area as possable.
Dont submerge it completly, Only about 1/2 to 3/4 down.
The probes may not be water tight.
 
reefplayer said:
Hi all experience ozone users.

I have a sander ozone unit and intended to hook up. But find it very puzzle. My question is this.

1. I have Redox Probe from IKS and it currently reads 428mV. This even without dosing ozone into my skimmer. I wonder whether it is wrong value. But i recalibrated it again and again with my redoz solution (230mV) still it went from 230mV to 400+ range. I thought my probe is wrong but a check with IKS, it says it doesnt matter whether it reads at 420 or 220mV. it boils down on how constant the probe is.

2. My friend has a probe too but not from IKS, it reads 250+mV and dosing ozone to 350mV. and maintains there.

We all have the same behavior when we do a water change, the reading will go down to 100+ or 200+.

I wonder all probes have different values? SO if should i dose ozone and set the limit to 450mV or 500mV? Although the water in my tank at 420mV still not that clear or clean.

Pls advise.
Thanks in advance.
Stanley
Is the probe used? Is the probe, or has the probe been tottaly submerged? (They sometimes leak and short giving false readings) Try letting it sit in vinegar for 1/2 hr first. Probes will creep up like that when dirty.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top