Thumbs up for Ozone!
- Thread starter joelsaxton
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Oh no i just ate a palythoa, and had a ozone cigarette. LOL J/k
It gets had to believe anything you see nowadays. I have a electro static air cleaner, and it does pull out some nasty dirt, and i rarely am sick anymore. I was sick 4-6 times a winter, Now maybe once. As i see all the new hype on these new " Safe air cleaners" I see all the ballooga on eqiup that crteate ozone in small amounts. If levels are under 50 ppb(2) Its with human tolorance. (I beleve)
I had to take a "believe nothing ya hear and half of what ya see motto." I think all these new studys are funded by peopel that have vested interest in other products.
Ozone in high moderatins is bad, Thats why you have carbon on the exit pionts of you skimmer.
It gets had to believe anything you see nowadays. I have a electro static air cleaner, and it does pull out some nasty dirt, and i rarely am sick anymore. I was sick 4-6 times a winter, Now maybe once. As i see all the new hype on these new " Safe air cleaners" I see all the ballooga on eqiup that crteate ozone in small amounts. If levels are under 50 ppb(2) Its with human tolorance. (I beleve)
I had to take a "believe nothing ya hear and half of what ya see motto." I think all these new studys are funded by peopel that have vested interest in other products.
Ozone in high moderatins is bad, Thats why you have carbon on the exit pionts of you skimmer.
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joelsaxton
Premium Member
Does anyone else own one of the new Sander units? I have a 50mg unit and I am wondering how often I need to do maintenance on it. My tank ORP has been below 300 for several days and I wonder if maybe this unit is not putting out as much as before.
reefplayer
In Memoriam
Creetin said:
Nope the probe is new and i have totally submerged it under the water. Today i change the position of the probe to my last compartment of the sump where the return pump draws the water from. The reading goes down to 280mV. And now after awhile the reading went up to 340mV.
Ok. I think there are some reasons on using the probe after my observation.
1. Position or placement of the ORP probe? Where should the probe be correctly place.
2. Clamness of the water? Having turbulence water where the probe is will change the reading?
3. Temperature of the water? Will the reading varies when temperature varies?
But having ozone is great as i see tremendous changes in water. Corals seems better.
:eek1:
joelsaxton
Premium Member
reefplayer said:
I would think it would do better in higher flow area - when I had mine in a low flow area, algal film was quicker to accumulate on the electrode and raise the orp reading. It should be vertical although as long as it is submerged you should get a good reading. I would guess higher temperature might raise the value but who knows? I don't think it would make much of a difference.
marcrothschild
Active member
I take my sander 50 mg/hr unit apart once a month...It is always loaded with dirt on the generator plate. I just wipe it off with a damp sponge.
scarletknight06
New member
great thread! couple questions:
1) I have this ozonizer:
http://www.aquadirect.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=389&cat=193&page=1
It uses a UV bulb to produce ozone, does it still require an air dryer?
2) how much carbon to i need to run after the output of my skimmer?
1) I have this ozonizer:
http://www.aquadirect.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=389&cat=193&page=1
It uses a UV bulb to produce ozone, does it still require an air dryer?
2) how much carbon to i need to run after the output of my skimmer?
Kenfuzed
New member
Yes, dry air makes the ozone generator more efficient. Carbon use is a matter of opinion. Since I have my ozone generator connected to an ASM skimmer, there is no convenient place to put carbon on the output. Therefore I run without. I do use carbon in a separate container for clarification but not from the output.scarletknight06 said:
joelsaxton
Premium Member
I also used to run ozone through my ASM G3 with no problems. I ran a 50mg/hr Sander unit with no air dryer and it made the skimmate a lighter shade of green.
jbphoenix
New member
I run a Red Sea Aquazone PLUS 100 set at around 35mg on my 90 gal. FOWLR tank through an old Red Sea Berlin Classic. I use the carbon air filter cap which was included with the Berlin Classic and run the effluent through carbon as well. I maintain an ORP level of 350mv. My water is crystal clear!
I did learn that if you are running the Red Sea ozonizer without the air dryer that the unit will not last very long though. Basically what happens is the electrode used to generate the ozone will eventually rust from being in the saltwater environment and the unit stops working. So using the air dryer on these units does more than just make the ozone generation more efficient. I notice that Red Sea now includes the 250cc air dryer in all of the units they sell... probably because of complaints. I use a 250cc in line with a 500cc dryer and I regenerate the beads around every 2 weeks. IMO no one should run a Red Sea unit without an air dryer.
I don't believe that not running an air dryer is an issue with the ozone generators that use the UV tube method of generating ozone, just the Red Sea which uses the Corona Discharge ozone generating method.
I did learn that if you are running the Red Sea ozonizer without the air dryer that the unit will not last very long though. Basically what happens is the electrode used to generate the ozone will eventually rust from being in the saltwater environment and the unit stops working. So using the air dryer on these units does more than just make the ozone generation more efficient. I notice that Red Sea now includes the 250cc air dryer in all of the units they sell... probably because of complaints. I use a 250cc in line with a 500cc dryer and I regenerate the beads around every 2 weeks. IMO no one should run a Red Sea unit without an air dryer.
I don't believe that not running an air dryer is an issue with the ozone generators that use the UV tube method of generating ozone, just the Red Sea which uses the Corona Discharge ozone generating method.
Kenfuzed
New member
Anyone suggest a source for ozone proof T fittings? I just disconnected the T fitting that connects my ozone generator to the venturi tube on my skimmer. The T fitting had started to crumble and decompose after only 3 months of use. I have the fitting submerged where it connects, and it was actually starting to clog with a white build-up in the passages.
joelsaxton
Premium Member
I think you might just have to change them periodically. I have had the same problem.
I have an Aqua C EV400 and the ozone fitting (though supposedly ozone-safe) fell apart, too.
I have an Aqua C EV400 and the ozone fitting (though supposedly ozone-safe) fell apart, too.
jjjimmy
Premium Member
OK guys, I am ready to plunge into the world of ozone but I do still have a few questions.
I bought a used Red Sea AquaZone plus 100 so it has the ORP controller built right in the unit.
1. How necessary is an air dryer? Or is it more of a PIA than it is worth?
2. I am running a Precision Marine bullet-2 beckett skimmer and I am going to be connecting the unit to the fitting for it on the injector assembly. Am I going to need an air pump or will the injector assembly pull the air through the unit?
3. How necessary is it to run the air outlet of my skimmer and the effluent from the skimmer through a carbon filter of some sort?
4. What do you all recommend for cleaning my ORP probe?
5. I had planned on starting the unit out at 40 mg/hr on a total system volume of approximately 260 gallons. Does that sound about right?
Any insight that you can offer is much appreciated.
Jimmy
I bought a used Red Sea AquaZone plus 100 so it has the ORP controller built right in the unit.
1. How necessary is an air dryer? Or is it more of a PIA than it is worth?
2. I am running a Precision Marine bullet-2 beckett skimmer and I am going to be connecting the unit to the fitting for it on the injector assembly. Am I going to need an air pump or will the injector assembly pull the air through the unit?
3. How necessary is it to run the air outlet of my skimmer and the effluent from the skimmer through a carbon filter of some sort?
4. What do you all recommend for cleaning my ORP probe?
5. I had planned on starting the unit out at 40 mg/hr on a total system volume of approximately 260 gallons. Does that sound about right?
Any insight that you can offer is much appreciated.
Jimmy
LittleBlueGT
New member
jjjimmy said:
1. Worth it if it is in a humid environment, like a stand. If you can isolate the air intake to suck in dry air then you probably won't need it. It is still best though as the unit will last longer.
2. Depends how you plumb it. It can be plumbed to work w/o an air pump with a beckett skimmer
3. Not necessary, IMO, though many will debate. I use the RedsSea 200 mg/hr unit on my 250 and have had no trouble at all for over a year using no carbon. The Air outlet might stink a bit if you don't use it. I have my air outlet plumbed to outside the house, so it is not a problme for me, less maintenance too (and less humidity)
4. Vinegar every couple of weeks 10 mins
5. Sure, no problems with taking it slow.
Kenfuzed
New member
There is one thing to keep in mind when connecting your ozone tubing to the air inlet of your skimmer. Make sure the ozone generator is kept above the water level of the skimmer. Otherwise when you turn off the skimmer, water could move back down the tubing into the generator. This could destroy or damage the unit. If you install a check valve inline, you will need an air pump to overcome the resistance.
Also, IMHO ozone should be regulated using a controller rather than administering certain amounts (dosages) per day. When first adding ozone, I would get your baseline measurement from the tank for at least a day or two, then increase ozone with an ORP value of no more than 2-5 mv per day up to your desired level.
I clean my probe once per week in vinegar, and then let the probe acclimate in the tank for another hour before turning back on the ozone. Otherwise you could overdose while the probe adjusts.
Also, IMHO ozone should be regulated using a controller rather than administering certain amounts (dosages) per day. When first adding ozone, I would get your baseline measurement from the tank for at least a day or two, then increase ozone with an ORP value of no more than 2-5 mv per day up to your desired level.
I clean my probe once per week in vinegar, and then let the probe acclimate in the tank for another hour before turning back on the ozone. Otherwise you could overdose while the probe adjusts.
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