What was the interference causing the Radion to do? I was on the phone with Ecotech and they mentioned that if you disable the programming buttons on the light this fixes the interference issue. I am adding 4 T5s to my gen 1 fixture and I am hoping this wont be a problem.
Good idea setting up this poll however, it would have been more beneficial to set up 3 or 4 polls for the diff generation/modifications possible with the Radion. The problem is there is a big difference in intensity between what you can run a gen 1 Radion w/no TIR lenses at compared to a pro. Alot of people are running their Pros at 25-30% over SPS tanks which I doubt would render the same results for those people still using Gen 1s. If I upgraded my Gen 1 w/TIR lenses to a pro I would probably cut my intensity in half and go up or down depending on the coral response.
The interference was the communications between radions to each other. It messes with the electronics of the radions somehow.
i went from 8 400 watt MH and T5 VHO supplemental actinics to 8 radion pros and my thoughts were 100% cranked! softies, clams, zoes did fine and even a 2 chalices did great but anything else i put in either bleached or browns. after reading this post im dialing down to 75% and see what happens with my corals and with any new corals that are introduced. the radions pack a hell of a punch and they will burn like a laser beam if you keep them too low. my depth is 36 inches and still i think now after reading this it needs to be ramped down and raised to 18 inches. my real issue is that i like a bright tank but i guess its all getting used too. I tried to have VHO T5's with radions just to brighten the tank but the ballasts interfere with the electronics of the radions. T5's and radions for me would be the perfect mix. ill keep you all posted as the tank turns. hmm sounds like a soap opera.
Voted 50~60 percent.
Changed my views on these lights and how powerful they are. There is a major difference what intensity your cranking them at and what kelvin they are set at so take with a grain of salt what everyone's decisions are here. I have a 36 inch deep tank and I'm keeping my light around 18 in off the water line and at a 50 percent intensity but now I'm in acclimation mode for the next 6 weeks starting at a 30 percent which really means I'm at 30 percent intensity of the 50 percent setting. Btw if they are higher off the water line you get a better spread and less laser beam burning happening to the corals. I just bought a ton of new corals which is why I'm dialing it down and taking it slow. Most places we buy our corals from usually use low light and mainly blues so the corals do get shocked sometimes when we put them in with these lights or any powerful lights regardless of what people say. Slow and easy wins the race.
UPDATE
After much thought and debate I finally figured that it was time to see what PAR I was getting from my light fixture. The reason was my SPS just don't have the color I was looking for, So I asked a member (friend) from the local club and he lent it to me. Well to my surprise my PAR readings were ultra low so low I don't know how I got any color at all. I was getting readings of 80 PAR 15" FROM THE WATER LINE.
Here is what I did wrong
Light fixture was 8" above water line and my intensity was 65% this was all wrong for my tank. Below is what I did to correct my PAR problem and I know it's not been more than a day but my SPS are reacting perfectly, they all look better after 24 hours lol can't wait to see what they look like in a month. If I keep the fixture as I may jump into a mitras ghl
Also I have it set to acclimation mode over two weeks starting at 65% intensity and going up to 75% The reading below are all it the 15" mark directly under the fixture. now most of my sps are ate the height but I do have some that are closer to the light and they are getting 350 par to 380 at the 10 to 8" mark. before they were getting 150 max so I am so happy that Bill lent me his meter.
**** Note anyone running LED'S really needs to stop guessing and measure your PAR YOU WILL THANK ME LATER
This is what I did
LIGHT FIXTURE WAS LOWERED TO 5 ½ FROM THE WATER LINE
Raised intensity to 75% max at peak
Here are the results ENJOY AND HOPE IT HELPS RADION USERS.
10:25 AM LIGHTS ON PAR READING 118
ROYAL BLUE 70%
BLUE 50%
COOL WHITE 0%
GREEN 0%
HYPER RED 0%
12:00 PM PAR READING 132
ROYAL BLUE 80%
BLUE 60%
COOL WHITE 0%
GREEN 0%
HYPER RED 0%
1:00PM PAR READING 136
ROYAL BLUE 75%
BLUE 55%
COOL WHITE 7%
GREEN 10%
HYPER RED 25%
2:00PM PAR READING 190
ROYAL BLUE 100%
BLUE 100%
COOL WHITE 17%
GREEN 17%
HYPER RED 17%
3:00PM PAR READING 205
ROYAL BLUE 100%
BLUE 100%
COOL WHITE 30%
GREEN 17%
HYPER RED 17%
4:15PM PAR READING 214
ROYAL BLUE 100%
BLUE 100%
COOL WHITE 40%
GREEN 17%
HYPER RED 17%
5:30PM PAR READING 203
ROYAL BLUE 100%
BLUE 100%
COOL WHITE 30%
GREEN 17%
HYPER RED 17%
7:20PM PAR READING 136
ROYAL BLUE 75%
BLUE 55%
COOL WHITE 7%
GREEN 10%
HYPER RED 25%
8:20PM PAR READING 133
ROYAL BLUE 80%
BLUE 60%
COOL WHITE 0%
GREEN 0%
HYPER RED 0%
1O:00PM PAR READING 118
ROYAL BLUE 70%
BLUE 50%
COOL WHITE 0%
GREEN 0%
HYPER RED 0%
10:30 PM LIGHTS off
I tell you what would be helpful. A calculator for the apogee par meter that corrects the reading you get to the error corrections for a particular led at different kelvin settings and intensities.
Has anyone that made a change to their original intensity settings.
I've added a gen 3 to my system and gone to 70% from 65%.