Wazzel's mostly SPS 60 Cube

Small light adjustment today. Dropped colors to 88% and white to 43%. Inflection points were dropped by 2% also. I think I am getting close to the sweet spot. Fixture power now at 64.3%. Going to give it a few weeks to see if things respond positively.
 
Hey wazzel have you found a relationship between power and par in your tank?

Sort of. I mapped out the power vs par for each channel for one location in my tank just to get a feel of how they are related. From that information I was able to make a spread sheet to estimate power output of the fixture. I have not tied it back to an estimate of par. Doubt it would be hard to do if I took a couple of key location and tied it back to the power values. The relationship is linear so not hard to do at all.

These is the results table of what I measured.

hydra52%20par-L.jpg
 
Looks like I need to either change salt or source another vendor. My LFS is having issues with his instant ocean destributor and will not be getting anymore. He carries tropical marine. I am concerned changing will cause an issue. I think I can pick up at one of the big box pet stores, but would rather continue to give my business to the local guy.

Thoughts? I just it his last 200 gal box of reef crystals so not in a bind.
 
I've never used tropical marine..
But I have changed salt many times without issue...
I know many people have had problems changing salts, though..
Maybe you could start with small wcs and work your way up to full volume wcs over a period of months... That should allow the tank to acclimate to the new salt...
 
Ugh....

I try to give my business to the little/local guy as well....unless doing so negatively impacts my system. I'm loathe to mix or change salts personally, especially after reading all of the horror stories where folks changed salt mixes and things went bad.

Tranh from Tidal Gardens made a post here on RC several years ago that has stuck with me....

"My wallet is not a charity for local businesses."

I'm willing to spend a little more for a product that my LFS carries vs ordering it online in order to ensure he stays in business. But if they stop carrying a product I use regularly and really dont want to change/stop using, (such as a particular salt mix), I'd start getting it elsewhere.

Obviously, that is just my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it....
 
Looks like I need to either change salt or source another vendor. My LFS is having issues with his instant ocean destributor and will not be getting anymore. He carries tropical marine. I am concerned changing will cause an issue. I think I can pick up at one of the big box pet stores, but would rather continue to give my business to the local guy.

Thoughts? I just it his last 200 gal box of reef crystals so not in a bind.

Considering that stability is one of the reasons your reef has done better than most, and that you rely on water changes to exchange the minerals and such rather than dosing stuff, I think you would be wise to reconsider changing salt mixes. Tropic Marin is supposed to be good stuff - in fact I think a lot of mixes are much better than Reef Crystals, but changing when you don't have to in your system setup is inviting disaster.
 
Ugh....

I try to give my business to the little/local guy as well....unless doing so negatively impacts my system. I'm loathe to mix or change salts personally, especially after reading all of the horror stories where folks changed salt mixes and things went bad.

Tranh from Tidal Gardens made a post here on RC several years ago that has stuck with me....

"My wallet is not a charity for local businesses."

I'm willing to spend a little more for a product that my LFS carries vs ordering it online in order to ensure he stays in business. But if they stop carrying a product I use regularly and really dont want to change/stop using, (such as a particular salt mix), I'd start getting it elsewhere.

Obviously, that is just my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it....

That is very much my opinion as well. The owner of this LFS and I have become friends over the past two year. I have told him straight up I am willing to pay a little more to buy local, but I am not going to let him rip me off. There is another LFS that carries some SW stuff and I will not spend a dime in that store again. The prices are ridiculous and the owner in not knowledgeable.

I use seachem products I can get reef builder 500g online for $10+ shipping, at the LFS I use for $12 and the one I do not use it is $20.
 
Considering that stability is one of the reasons your reef has done better than most, and that you rely on water changes to exchange the minerals and such rather than dosing stuff, I think you would be wise to reconsider changing salt mixes. Tropic Marin is supposed to be good stuff - in fact I think a lot of mixes are much better than Reef Crystals, but changing when you don't have to in your system setup is inviting disaster.

That is my reluctance to change. I have used other mixes on other tanks so it is not a band issues, just the idea of changing.

My though was if I had to change was to do it when I swapped systems. I have to make at lease 60 gallons of new water to make up the difference anyway. Not to mention there is going to be a big shake up with the relocating. Might be a good idea to just bite the bullet.
 
Amazon will ship salt to your door for less than any big box store, UPS guy usually gives me grief when he has to deliver such a heavy package. I use Brightwell Salt since I carbon dose and want to stay close to 8 ALK, every other salt I've tried has ALK shoot up to 12-14 range. I don't do water changes very often because my nutrients are so low and my ALK and CAL stay so stable. Maybe a 20 gallon change once per month on my 150 w/30 gal sump. Works for me so I'll stick with it. At this rate I'll be buying salt once every 3 years!
 
Sort of. I mapped out the power vs par for each channel for one location in my tank just to get a feel of how they are related. From that information I was able to make a spread sheet to estimate power output of the fixture. I have not tied it back to an estimate of par. Doubt it would be hard to do if I took a couple of key location and tied it back to the power values. The relationship is linear so not hard to do at all.

These is the results table of what I measured.

hydra52%20par-L.jpg

Wazzel, I'm sorry, but this study and did the hydra 52 correct? For the hydra 26 may not be similar?
 
Wazzel, I'm sorry, but this study and did the hydra 52 correct? For the hydra 26 may not be similar?

Correct, this is for a regular hydra52. Considering the relationships to power and par all appear to be linear and additive you should be able to use it as a guide.
 
When I got my 120 in October I did not think the 60 would make it to the 2 year mark. Well May will be 2 years since first coral. Guess there will be one more update for the cube in a few weeks.
 
The 60 has developed two issues. I got aiptasia real bad on my clam and my chalice is stinging everything around it. For the chalice I am trying to frag and sell, but it is not moving. I may have to frag and recycle, not my preference since I really dislike killing heathy corals on purpose. But it has already done a number on my green acro and is starting to hit my raspberry lime aid hyacinthus. For the aiptasia I have started attacking it with an manjo wand. The wand works but it is labor intensive and you need to stay on it every few day or any progress is lost. Last weekend I added a copper band butterfly to see if I can get a biological means of control to help me out. The hope was it would not get to this point and I could deal with it during the transfer, but we all know how long that is taking.
 
The 60 has developed two issues. I got aiptasia real bad on my clam and my chalice is stinging everything around it. For the chalice I am trying to frag and sell, but it is not moving. I may have to frag and recycle, not my preference since I really dislike killing heathy corals on purpose. But it has already done a number on my green acro and is starting to hit my raspberry lime aid hyacinthus. For the aiptasia I have started attacking it with an manjo wand. The wand works but it is labor intensive and you need to stay on it every few day or any progress is lost. Last weekend I added a copper band butterfly to see if I can get a biological means of control to help me out. The hope was it would not get to this point and I could deal with it during the transfer, but we all know how long that is taking.

A copperband or filefish is the best option, so you're on the right path. I lose a lot of attraction for a coral when it kills other corals personally. Ive thrown a lot of Hollywood stunner away to keep it from killing corals...
 
A copperband or filefish is the best option, so you're on the right path. I lose a lot of attraction for a coral when it kills other corals personally. Ive thrown a lot of Hollywood stunner away to keep it from killing corals...

I tried a filefish, it liked acans. The hollywood stunner is not going in the big tank anyway. Guess if I need to toss some it would not be the end of the world. If I had space in my frag tank I would trim and hold until sold, but even that is kind of full between things I have for sale, things holding for the new tank and my derasa clam.

image-L.jpg
 
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Wazzel, sorry to hear about the aiptasia issue.

I had it really bad at one point. I purchased two Peppermint Shrimp in my 40. Within a week it was pretty much gone.

I have one Peppermint left in my current tank, see him from time to time. I haven't had an Aiptasia issue since.
 
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