What is in Kent Marine Tech M that kills Bryopsis

[DavidG1966]

According to the Marine Depot website this is what it contains:

Deionized water containing the following elements (as ions): magnesium, chlorine, sulfur, calcium, potassium, bromine, strontium, boron, fluorine, lithium, rubidium, iodine, iron, molybdenum, zinc, nickel, copper, manganese, vanadium, cesium, cobalt, tungsten, selenium, and chromium.

What in there is killing the Bryopsis?

 

[Drae]

Magnesium of course. Even the brs Magnesium works. I don't know why people think it's just the Kent brand that works. 1800ppm of magnesium... bye bye bryopsis.

 

[cakemanPA]

Not the magnesium... BRS did not take care of my Bryopsis. When I used TECH M, gone within 2 weeks

 

[Ron Reefman]

Not the magnesium... BRS did not take care of my Bryopsis. When I used TECH M, gone within 2 weeks

Read the label...

De-ionized water, mag chloride and mag sulfate... that's all there is so it must be that darn de-ionized water. :thumbsup:

 

[psteeleb]

not sure what it different about techM but it cleared up the bryopsis in two of my tanks - it's not the total Mg level its the concentration of TechM relative to your total Mg count. Seems like if ~30% of your total Mg count is TechM it does the trick

 

[Elliott]

BRS MgCl and/or MgS04 did not work

Tech M or Brightwell Magnesion P works

For small areas I just cover it with flexible pvc matting (used under shower installs, sold at HD) for a couple weeks, does the trick

 

[sporto0]

Yeah, only Kent Marine Tech-M worked for me, as for what it was chemically? only David Blaine or Randy Holmes Farley may know.

 

[DHyslop]

BRS magnesium is pharmaceutical grade. I doubt that Kent or Brightwell are, so I think it's fair to assume some minor contaminant in the latter is what affects the Bryopsis.

 

[brandon429]

Nobody knows


It will be an ongoing series of guesses but it does have a pretty good track record.

 

[PAnanoguy]

since we know the "M" in Tech M stands for Magnesium it must be the "Tech" that kills bryopsis.

 

[tylersarah]

Tech M worked really well for us. 6 months of hair algae was gone in a month.
Be sure to find the source of your algae problem and eliminate it first then Tech M to eradicate.

Some of our corals did lose color at the heightened Mg levels but came back in a week after discontinuing use of the Tech M

We only used the Tech M and no other product so I can't speak as to weather the other products work or not.

BTW if you look at our thread history there is a thread about our hair algae issues and how we solved it.

The key is to raise your Mg levels to 1800+ and keep them there until the algae is gone. And again make sure you eliminate the source of your algae feeding Phosphates.

 

[Peter Eichler]

Epsom salts killed the bryopsis for me. But, people still insist that it's some magic ingredient in Kent :debi:

 

[MellowReefer]

I think I have some bryopsis that is spreading and I'm going to try the mag I already have on hand and see if it works (Seachem). Can anyone recommend a test kit that goes up to 1800ppm? Or just cut sample with half RODI water and double the results? Does everyone agree on the 1800 ppm target? Thanks.

 

[Peter Eichler]

With most magnesium test kits it will be simple addition for more drops needed in the titration. I've always used salifert for magnesium.

 

[cakemanPA]

Hey Ron... I did read the label just like i did for BRS Mag...

 

[Greg 45]

ron it cannot be the di water how much ash is in there
if its in a bottle it dont work for me tryed it poured the rest down the drain

 

[devimik]

Just started using the Kent Tech M for my Bryopsis outbreak - 3 days ago I started and already it is almost all gone. The leaves started to turn clear and dissolve away. Amazing product.

 

[someotherguy]

For what it's worth, Tech M did nothing for me. I had a bad outbreak, tried everything I could read about, including physically scrubbing all rocks and going competely dark for 14 days. Eventually I just said the hell with it and left it alone. After a few months it died of it's own accord. For the record, my nitrates and phos were well under control.
What may have contributed was a number of changes including swapping out some of my rock, adding bio pellets and reducing the proportion of whiter light.