Yes!!!!!!!!! SPS Success with Leds! Come in and Share your Story!

Great looking tanks, kinda bummed this thread isn't any longer. I'm still in the stage of trying to dial my LEDs in. But after reading these threads, I'm gonna start bumping my blues up a lil each week to about 85% & leave my whites at 65% or drop them a lil bit.
 
Good to hear about success with LEDs and SPS.
It would be more beneficial to have some more data like: tank dimensions, led spec (total power, used diodes types and their quantity or just lamp model), lamp setup and lighting schedule.
 
Great tanks guys!!! I just set p a 65 gallon that will be predominately SPS with a fe Acans and LPS down at the bottom.
My tank is 3 feet long and I put a 32" ReefBreeders Photon over it. My first led's but so far I love them.
Mine are 9" above the tank with 90 degree lenses on them. My tank top is fully covered with 1/2 acrylic and I am getting awesome PAR numbers are 50% blue and 45% white. 300-ish 14 inches down below the water! And my tank is 24 inches deep!
I absolutely love them so far. If I can grow SPS with 150 watts of light vs. 500 watts of metal halides I will be one happy camper!!!!
 
a lot of great tanks so far, i expected more though. I my self will be doing a All LED 120g SPS. Well actually im changing my LED 120g fish only to a LED SPS.

my tank was a full SPS with T5's for a long time and then i tried MH for a while. Both done just fine, as everyone knows they grew SPS very well. My new system will be at first Full LED's. know over time i may add some T5's but im going to do my best to push the LED's to the bitter end. I dont want to add any extra light but may. I just fill the Leds will do fine for me and majorly cut cost over time. T5s and MH use to much electric and put off to much heat. T5's IMO not nearly as bad as MH but thats another thread.

I cant wait to post photo and i will most defiantly post them once the time comes.

AS a side note, after an equipment failure / Salt issue at them same time my tank crashed and is know fish only. Thats where where it sits as of today. I have been getting everything ready for another go around with an SPS tank. One major thing that will be different then before will be the equipment its self. I thank most people in this hobby become very dependent on to much equipment. My tank has always been on a minimalist layout but a lot of equipment was running the tank. Sure enough i had an equipment failure and oddly enough a salt issue at the same time that led to a crash. My new tank will have VERY LITTLE equipment. know of course some equipment is a must but not all. guess my point is we need be learn to make our tanks more simplistic and i believe LEDs is perfect for this.
 
I jumped on the LED bandwagon about a year ago, and at first was not that impressed. I had lost lots of color in my previous 75g, and we narrowed it down to what we believed was lighting.

I went from Halides with led supp, then to a full DIY Led fixture. While it brought some color to the tank, it was not what I expected or should have seen.

Bla Bla Bla, into a new 150g system upgrade from the 75g about 2 months ago, using the same LED fixture, and it was a world of difference. Something in that 75g was causing color loss, rocks leaching back into the system is now my thought, but I'll never know since that system was taken down. The new system has all new everything from sand to filtration.

Anyways, here's a quick picture of an acro that had no color for almost 2 years, and then after 3 weeks under LED's.

Before
DSC04042_zpsc1605f28.jpg


After 3 weeks
DSC04814_zpsad045dd2.jpg
 
I jumped on the LED bandwagon about a year ago, and at first was not that impressed. I had lost lots of color in my previous 75g, and we narrowed it down to what we believed was lighting.

I went from Halides with led supp, then to a full DIY Led fixture. While it brought some color to the tank, it was not what I expected or should have seen.

Bla Bla Bla, into a new 150g system upgrade from the 75g about 2 months ago, using the same LED fixture, and it was a world of difference. Something in that 75g was causing color loss, rocks leaching back into the system is now my thought, but I'll never know since that system was taken down. The new system has all new everything from sand to filtration.

Anyways, here's a quick picture of an acro that had no color for almost 2 years, and then after 3 weeks under LED's.

Before
DSC04042_zpsc1605f28.jpg


After 3 weeks
DSC04814_zpsad045dd2.jpg

This is what we need! Something is different with the larger tank. Can you share some details about the following difference between the two tanks:

1. Rocks, sand and filtration. What was in each tank?

2. Food: What did you used to feed the fishes and corals in the old tank and now in the new tank?
 
depth of the old tank VS the new tank, that corals the placement difference, and Lighting height / lens, Flow difference ect... would be great to know as well. so please post :)

Something made i big difference for sure.
 
This is what we need! Something is different with the larger tank. Can you share some details about the following difference between the two tanks:

1. Rocks, sand and filtration. What was in each tank?

2. Food: What did you used to feed the fishes and corals in the old tank and now in the new tank?

depth of the old tank VS the new tank, that corals the placement difference, and Lighting height / lens, Flow difference ect... would be great to know as well. so please post :)

Something made i big difference for sure.

The design is the same on the 150g as it was on the 75g.

75g with BeanAnimal System
40g sump with fuge
DIY LED Fixture, 216w
2x MP40w
Mag12 return
Bubble Magus NAC6 Skimmer
Apex
2 Drew's Dosers/BRS Chemicals
Pellet, Flake, Mysis, Brine for fun

150g with BeanAnimal System
50g Sump with fuge
DIY LED Fixture, 216w (hung/power adjusted to produce the same par values at depth as was in the 75g)
2x MP40w
Mag12 Return
SRO-PS-3000-INT Skimmer
Apex
2 Drew's Dosers/BRS Chemicals
Pellet, Flake, Mysis, Brine for fun
New Rock, New Sand

The only thing that has changed "Bio-wise" from the 75g to the 150g is rock and sand. Obviously, I also needed a bigger skimmer, and it came with the tank, so I did not go out and buy another BM (although I am considering it). When I moved into the 150g, I took everything off the 75g stand, walked 22 feet to the other side of the room, and hooked it all back up. Literally, nothing changed mechanically, except for the skimmer. I had run the bubble magus on a 50g previously, and brought that to the 75g when I upgraded years ago. When I made the upgrade to a 75g, it was pretty much an identical move; everything from the 50g went to the 75g, except for the lights and sand. I had 6x39w T5's over the 50g, and color was ridiculous. When I went to the 75g, I went back to Halides. The color loss issue started to present itself months later.

Also, I had to up my dosing time a little due to the volume of water in the 50g to the 75g, and then the 75g to 150g (from roughly 100g total in the 75g, and now at 180g total in the 150g.

Parameters are identical from 50g, to the 75g, to the 150g
Cal 450
Alk 9.8
Mag 1350
Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phos all undetectable. (salifert, same kits I was using on the 75g). No metals every detected in the system via checking using a polyfilter.

But my color issue isn't really what this thread is about, it's about the LED's being able to sustain life and produce color, which they have proved to me now, that they can and do work.

As mentioned, I had lost almost all color in the 75g, and wasn't very impressed with LED's at all. I had phenomenal growth though. When I moved to the 150g, all color came back, which in turn tells me that LED's do work. My problem in the 75g could have been a bad batch of silicone (DIY Sump/overflows), rock leaching something that I could not test for (some of the rock was over 10yrs old), bad sand (which was also new in the 75g), almost anything. But I do know, that it was not something mechanical, and had to be something bio wise.

Anways, back on track here: I had planned on going back to Halides or T5's if the new system did not make the difference and bring back colors, but now I am going to stick with the LED's because they have proven themselves.. for now anyways.

IMO, We still have a long ways to go with LED's. Color blending, spectra, par values, etc etc. But what is currently available in LED's, is and can be used just as with Halides, T5's and PC lighting.
 
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led since all the SPS have been added, all started from little frags. tank is 3 years old, keeping sps for only the last year or so give or take. i think i posted a photo a while ago in this thread.. but couldnt find it.. anyways.. LEDs are good to go.

_MG_9333.JPG
 
Also, I had to up my dosing time a little due to the volume of water in the
But my color issue isn't really what this thread is about, it's about the LED's being able to sustain life and produce color, which they have proved to me now, that they can and do work.

As mentioned, I had lost almost all color in the 75g, and wasn't very impressed with LED's at all. I had phenomenal growth though. When I moved to the 150g, all color came back, which in turn tells me that LED's do work. My problem in the 75g could have been a bad batch of silicone (DIY Sump/overflows), rock leaching something that I could not test for (some of the rock was over 10yrs old), bad sand (which was also new in the 75g), almost anything. But I do know, that it was not something mechanical, and had to be something bio wise.

Anways, back on track here: I had planned on going back to Halides or T5's if the new system did not make the difference and bring back colors, but now I am going to stick with the LED's because they have proven themselves.. for now anyways.

IMO, We still have a long ways to go with LED's. Color blending, spectra, par values, etc etc. But what is currently available in LED's, is and can be used just as with Halides, T5's and PC lighting.

What color and quantity LEDs are you using?
 
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