600gal (96x48x30)

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Re: 1 overflow

Re: 1 overflow

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6792223#post6792223 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by imbuggin
with all that flow going into one internal overflow, you better make sure to keep the teeth on the top very clean. If something gets sucked onto the teeth you could have a huge flood with no second overflow. It looks like you will need to get a lot of water into that overflow. Are you planning to widen the teeth? Coraline will also greatly reduce the water you can get into the overflow one the tank is mature. I have 2 overflows and if you don't keep them very clean you can see the difference in the water level in the tank. With only one you will have little room for error.

imbuggin, I will have to take a close up pic of my tank but here is a pic of Mantis's tank... As you can see the glass is cut down and a piece of eggcreate is attached... I will still need to make sure that I keep it cleaned but it will not block as easily as say an Oceanic overflow would...

overflow1.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6792256#post6792256 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Travis
There won't be any problems keeping the water level in the overflow level. He is only sending a small fraction of the total water flow amount to the skimmer. This will keep the water level at the top where the durso is handling the majority of it.

I didn't think so as I would only be sending about 30% to the skimmer...

600gph to the skimmer
2200-2400gph from the Dart...
 
I am thinking about yet another change in my setup...

My original plan was to have the display drain into the ref then overflow into the frag tank and then into the sump... I am thinking about having the display drain right into the sump and splitting off the Dart to feed the ref... This way I can lower the GPH back to the display a little as well as feed the ref as a lower rate...

The ref will be BB with quite a bit of LR in there... My main goal for the ref is to grow PODs (and macro algae) to feed the display... I plan on dosing phyto to the display as well as the ref every few days...

What do you all think ??

Display --> Ref --> Frag --> Sump --> Display

or

Display --> Sump --> Ref/Display...

Of course the frag tank will still be getting the overflow from the ref and drain into the sump...
 
Started looking back over stuff today, noticed that you were going to have 1000W of heaters on the tank. Didn't know where that number came from. I'm wondering how many watts per gallons to plan for on my 600. I'm thinking of having a 180 gallon fuge and about a 180 for a sump, although I don't recall how many gallons your sump is going to be. I can't decide if I'm going to run closed loops or try out a vortex or two before I decide to go with a closed loop. The nice thing about the vortex is that I'll be able to reposition them according to how everything grows, and how the tank matures without being limited by the closed loop.
 
Few factors though. Lots of pumps creates heat. I have 3 pumps on 24/7 - big Sequence 1000, PanWorld and an Iwaki. Plus I keep my fish room sealed (no outside venting) and an air con unit running 24/7 to keep room at 20 degrees centigrade (68F) and my tank was running on one 500w heater as I had the other in one of the curing tubs. It's not cold here now though. Temperature fluctautes alot this time of year from 5C to 25C.
 
I know the 3W rule just didn't know how true it will be with pumps, lights, equipment etc. Looking at the red dragon pumps, along with a BK400 Ext so they shouldn't put out too much heat. Might go with 1200W of MH depending on how Shawn's tank looks with the LAIIIs. I plan on running my lights mostly at night since I can get a better rate at night on my power bill, and I'm at work usually during the day anyway.

Shawn on the BK400 are the input(s) on the skimmer which will be coming from your overflow threaded or slip?

Marc what does "YMMV" mean?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6798347#post6798347 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheCoralNabber
Marc what does "YMMV" mean?
Your Mileage May Vary :lol:
It also depends on the ambient low temp of the area of the tank. My house does not get below 65Ã"šÃ‚° so I can get away with 2w per gallon.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6798191#post6798191 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheCoralNabber
Started looking back over stuff today, noticed that you were going to have 1000W of heaters on the tank. Didn't know where that number came from. I'm wondering how many watts per gallons to plan for on my 600. I'm thinking of having a 180 gallon fuge and about a 180 for a sump, although I don't recall how many gallons your sump is going to be. I can't decide if I'm going to run closed loops or try out a vortex or two before I decide to go with a closed loop. The nice thing about the vortex is that I'll be able to reposition them according to how everything grows, and how the tank matures without being limited by the closed loop.

I have 2000w of heaters... I am going to have 2x 500w tubes running off of the Medusa Dual Stage Digital Controller as well as 2x 500w tubes running off of the Aquatronica Controller... I am doing this for redundancy... I am going to have both controllers set so that if one were to fail then the other will kick on...

I am going to be using 2x 150gal rubbermaid poly tank...

If it were me I would go with Tunzes or the IceCap pumps... They have so many more advantages over a CL IMO...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6798211#post6798211 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
You need 3w per gallon of heat, typically. YMMV.

I think I have read it was like 1.5w per gal ??
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6798347#post6798347 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheCoralNabber
Shawn on the BK400 are the input(s) on the skimmer which will be coming from your overflow threaded or slip?

For all fittings used on the tank I went with sched 80 for a few reasons... Most of my BHs are threaded on both ends, the only "slip" BHs I have are the 3x on the back of the tank and only the flange inside the overflow is slip as all sched 80 BHs have threads on the "bottom" end... For all of the connections from a sched 40 pipe to a threaded connection I will be using "slip to threaded" fittings so that I can easily remove any piece of my plumbing without having to cut anything...

For the feed to the skimmer it will be coming from a 1.5" sched 80 BH converted down to a 1" sched 80 threaded ball valve with a threaded barb fitting on the end that will feed the skimmer, I will take some shots here in the next few days to show what I am talking about...
 
Shawn,

It's hard for me to follow how you are setting up your flow but I want to give you my 2 cents anyway. If you look at my thread you will find pics of my manifold. Originally I wasn't going to use this method but after reviewing pros & cons, I decided to mount it slightly above the water line of the tank as a safety measure, and use several valves to direct flow.

Because I built the manifold and installed it up high, I went with flexible PVC to cut down on back pressure associated with angles. From this manifold I can feed the tank, ref, and any other equipment like reactors, frag tank etc. Any of the individual destinations can be isolated by closing a valve and using one strong pump rather than multiple pumps really helps on electrical draw.

All "destinations" drain by gravity feed. I have the ref draining into the display (it's mounted above) and all roads lead to the sump of course. You can do the same by feeding your ref, then draining into the frag, and then into the display. The obvious issue is access to the frag tank. The way I would approach that is to "T" or use separate drains from the ref, with one going to the tank and one to the frag. The frag can drain into the sump. With no sand in the ref, you can push a little extra flow as well.

Gravity is your friend if used properly because it will interupt the flow should there be a pump failure or electrical outage. Just use stand pipes to drain each area rather than just a BH. So then you have the question of flow in the frag tank: here you can have your inflow from the ref at one end and a Tunze or Vortech at the other end. You have solved flow issues with much less electrical usage.

I also have an extra drain in my ref that is a straight BH mounted highest, and drains into the display but from above the waterline so that if it is being used I will see air bubbles in the display. That is a safety drain and seeing the bubbles will tell me that my main drain is clogged. And, I have another drain in the ref that goes to a 1/2" pipe mounted by the QT. This will gravity feed the QT with tank water so that when I am acclimating new arrivals, I can slowly blend in tank water (with pods of course). This is set up with a float valve on a 1/4" line. What I do is remove a few cups at a time from the QT, and allow it to refill from the tank.

Another "T" off this 1/4" feed goes to a small manifold with four 1/4" lines that are used for drip acclimation. Now you have a little more to ponder!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6799520#post6799520 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheCoralNabber
Why did you decide to go with sched 80? Looking forward to seeing the pics :)

Sched 80 is alot stronger then sched 40... For BHs I wouldn't recommend anything less then sched 80... For the fittings I would have been fine with sched 40 but I figured I am prob paying about the same price for the sched 80 fittings from savko that I would if I bought sched 40 from say Lowes or HD...

New pics to come soon...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6800593#post6800593 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Shawn,

It's hard for me to follow how you are setting up your flow but I want to give you my 2 cents anyway. If you look at my thread you will find pics of my manifold. Originally I wasn't going to use this method but after reviewing pros & cons, I decided to mount it slightly above the water line of the tank as a safety measure, and use several valves to direct flow.

Because I built the manifold and installed it up high, I went with flexible PVC to cut down on back pressure associated with angles. From this manifold I can feed the tank, ref, and any other equipment like reactors, frag tank etc. Any of the individual destinations can be isolated by closing a valve and using one strong pump rather than multiple pumps really helps on electrical draw.

All "destinations" drain by gravity feed. I have the ref draining into the display (it's mounted above) and all roads lead to the sump of course. You can do the same by feeding your ref, then draining into the frag, and then into the display. The obvious issue is access to the frag tank. The way I would approach that is to "T" or use separate drains from the ref, with one going to the tank and one to the frag. The frag can drain into the sump. With no sand in the ref, you can push a little extra flow as well.

Gravity is your friend if used properly because it will interupt the flow should there be a pump failure or electrical outage. Just use stand pipes to drain each area rather than just a BH. So then you have the question of flow in the frag tank: here you can have your inflow from the ref at one end and a Tunze or Vortech at the other end. You have solved flow issues with much less electrical usage.

I also have an extra drain in my ref that is a straight BH mounted highest, and drains into the display but from above the waterline so that if it is being used I will see air bubbles in the display. That is a safety drain and seeing the bubbles will tell me that my main drain is clogged. And, I have another drain in the ref that goes to a 1/2" pipe mounted by the QT. This will gravity feed the QT with tank water so that when I am acclimating new arrivals, I can slowly blend in tank water (with pods of course). This is set up with a float valve on a 1/4" line. What I do is remove a few cups at a time from the QT, and allow it to refill from the tank.

Another "T" off this 1/4" feed goes to a small manifold with four 1/4" lines that are used for drip acclimation. Now you have a little more to ponder!

Dang you jnarowe, you have given me a few things to ponder... I will have a QT and was going to use water from the main system to fill it when needed but I didnt even think about having a feed off of my plimbing with a BV so that I could turn it on/off when needed... I also like the idea about the acclimation lines... I got some thinking to do while I am at work tonite...
 
Intresting thoughs jnarowe about the drip line, I really like that idea. Will have to remember that one as well. I guess you really have to think ahead with the sched 80 though, can't make a quick run to HD to get that part you've forgotten. Is all of your plumbing white, or gray? Why are you going to running the two 150 gallon containers as sumps. I'm sure that I read about it at some point, but there is just too much stuff for me to try and rememeber :D
 
Let's just say you arrive home with four new specimens and you need to acclimate them to the QT. (not that any responsible reefer would do something like that :D )

Do you pop all 4 into the QT at once? What if you have a more sensitive creature that needs very slow acclimation?

Do you want to do water changes on your QT with system water or fresh made? How different will the QT water be from the display water when it's time to move your healed or new fish into it? Undoubtably it will be different so you have another acclimation period unless the QT has been slowly replaced with tank water. Wouldn't some pods be good for your new arrivals?

Is it easy to design and execute these changes? I think so. In fact my QT will have 2 float valves. One from the ref and one from RO/DI top-off. both with valves so I can use one or the other or both, but the tank will not overflow. nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.
 
That is slick man, I'll get to steal you guy's ideas for my own next system. Muhahahahah

Are you going to have small compartments to place them in? Usually when I get stuff it just comes in a little bag. If they all came from the same tank I could put them all into the same compartment, and then add water from the tank by dripping it in to aclimate them. Are you going to have a sump on the QT? What type of filteration is it going to have.

Shawn hope you don't think I'm trying to hijack your thread here. LMK if you do and I can shut up :D

Dan
 
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