algea scrubber

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I built a box about 3" high. 6 " and 48" long. As you can see, it tapers to a sharp end. There is a weight at the other end that is made of steel and is in-cased in plastic.

As the water starts filling the tray, it pools in the lowest part (shown in dark blue). As the tray takes more water it fills to the left in this picture. At some point, the water to the left of the fulcrum weights more than what is on the right and the weight of the steel. At the point the bucket tips over and dumps it's water. The water rushes out of the tray to create natural high speed, fairly linear turbulence.

The water spills a foot, in my case, to create a splash. To prevent over-splash, I installed a tube that goes just below the water line. I also have a flat plastic plate that stops the popping bubbles from causing salt creep.

When the water finishes dumping the tray rights its self. I placed jell pads, like you might put under your wrist when you use a mouse or keyboard, under the counter weight and at the sharp end to prevent a bumping sound and this works quite well.

Unlike similar the designs in Dynamic Aquaria, I place the fulcrum on the outside of the bucket. That way, I could move it forward and back until I had it properly tuned.

When the bucket tips back up, it happens quickly and the remaining water that doesn't make its way out of the tray, reverses its path and slides back down the narrow end of the tray. Then it crashes into water at the right end of the tray and into the wall of the counter weight. This adds random erratic turbulence. While this is not advisable, I found that I could leave my scrubber unattended for weeks or even a couple of months without seeing any dye off.

This is a design that requires basic fabrication skills and access to a ban saw or something like it because you need straight clean lines. Cutting the angle does not lend itself to doing score and snap cuts which is what you normally get at Lowes. Other than that, it wasn't too hard to make. I bought 1" square bar stock and they cut it for me so that I had four pieces to stack into a 4" height x 4" length x 6" (minus that plastic) width.

I did have to mess with it for a couple of weeks to get it to work the way that I wanted it to. This is definitely not something that you can just take out of a box, plug it in and forget it. Once I tuned it, I haven't had to mess with it much at all though. It is very forgiving.
 
Thanks Herring.

I was sort of guessing that might be the function, but, on the original picture there were no side walls which confused me as no water could pile up.

Thanks again.
 
Here's a few shots after cleaning.

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FTS
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The remaining algae in the display is so minor that it's not worth worrying about. And I tend to agree with PaulB that a little algae in the display is more natural looking.

I did change my CFL's after 3 months. they'll be due again around the first of Dec.

Phil
 
if i was to do t5s i would just do regular t5s and maybe a soft white or 3500K, havent really looked but if possible go down as low as 3000k
 
Alaska; Roger that!

xdan; Yes, you can even use 2700k for bulbs. Some people swear by pinker light some swear by yellower light. What I think is that whatever light you choose the algae that flourishes will be the one that likes the color you're using - hence the various opinions.
 
I think it's also important to note that the kelvin scale is meant to be a "human eye" approximation of warmth/coolness, and we should be careful to imply any direct bearing on spectral distribution, PAR, or general suitability for growing algae!
 
The type of algae that grows will also be dependant on what levels and proportions of nutrients are available. I'm using 3500K lamps and getting green turf algae on mine.
 
I used 2700k at first on mine and the algae never really would grow so after 3 months I switched to 3700k on one side and 6500k day light bulbs and the green turf algae really took off. I also saw my corals looking better and showing more growth with this set up.
 
300 gallon ATS system

300 gallon ATS system

Hello everyone! It is nice to see there are others using ATS. Anyone heard of Inland Aquatics in Tere Haute Indiana? They have a massive complex that is completely filtered by ATS. I just bought a custom 300 gallon system that has a surge type ATS. I have owned many protein skimmers BK, Deltec, etc. I was tired of putting in expensive additives and salt just to have the skimmer pull them right out! At Inland Aquatics they have several small systems that have not had water changes in 10 years or more and are loaded with fish and coral with the best success. Just my opinion in the 10 years I have been in the hobby. If you are ever in the area go to Inland Aquaticsand ask for Ben or Morgan to show you this wonderful setup.
 
It's important to note that the turf can be any of dozens of types of algae. Your tank could easily not harbor several the the next guys tank could.
 
Yes, you are right. You can purchase seed screens from Inland Aquatics or other tanks so that you can get the variety you need to begin the screen.
 
My ATS

My ATS

I'm glad I was pointed to this thread from the original one SM started...

I have been maintaining this system for about a year, was in bad shape when I took it over but I've turned it around, well established 3yrs+, started with Nitrates 150+ and I ratcheted it down to about 15-20, LR took it down the rest of the way on it's own. Still had a phos issue but no DT algae (grazers). I just liked the idea of the ATS, it made sense to me.

My design is high-powered and you can tell by the quick maturity of the screen. Here's the tank

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Here's the ATS

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And the growth after a month (this is before the 4th weekly cleaning)

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More later..gotta go
 
That is one powerful looking scrubber. Great job on (what looks like) the use with T5 with individual reflectors. What are some specs? ie aquarium size, your screen length x width, flow etc?

I'm guessing SM would say one of two things in regard to the color of the algae - either photoinhibition or still high nutrient load in the system? Part of me wonders if you are in fact providing more light than optimal because T5 lamps are a LOT more powerful than the CFL lamps... Have you previously run it with just one of those T5's over the screen?
 
I've got a build thread running on algae scrubbers website. I made an error in the flow calc, it's only 433 GPH (mag12/plumbing issue, whole other story) but it's a 20" wide 8-9" tall screen so I need to double the flow, that's why it's yellow. I've been adding Kent Iron/Manganese to offset.

Was feeding every other day, just cubes of brine shrimp with a little pellet food now and then and nori cubes a couple times a week. Started daily feeding and added Oyster-feast, Arcti-Pods, Rod's Food, Cyclopeez (sp?), and dumped a jar of Tigger Pods in to boot.

Tank is 125 Acrylic, end overflow (peninsula tank), sump is 40 breeder.

ATS Lights are 4x T5HO Grow Lamps from aghydroponics (red spectrum perfect for ATS and SUPER CHEAP) http://www.aghydroponics.com/T5-2Ft-Grow-Bulbs-24W-HO-3000k-p/litbulbt5-pxfl24830.htm

Workhorse 5 ballast

TEK-II reflectors

Custom acrylic box

Yeah. it's super-high powered.
 
No, the 35 Gallons per inch is just of screen width, not per inch per side, according to SM's FAQs and everything I've ever read that he suggested. So I currently have aobut 20 Gal/In. I need to get to 700 Gal/inch.

The lamps themselves were 8 for $32 or $4 each. Everything else was expensive. $25/each reflector & clips, $15/pair of ice caps & standoffs, $27 ballast. My dad makes acrylic display holders for antique dealers and made the box. I clean it every 7 days. The front cover comes off, I turn off the pump or open the bypass valve, unscrew the union. From beginning to end it takes about 20+ minutes.
 
oops I meant 700 GPH. Problem is the return hose is too small. I found out (though it goes against all logic) direct from Danner Mfg that the Mag12 with a 3/4 nozzle needs a 1-1/2" return hose or else the flow is restricted and you lose GPH. With 5' head it should be running 900-1100 GPH but with a 3/4" return hose, even with no horizontal, and a recently cleaned pump/impeller, I get 433 GPH (tested by filling 2 Qt pitcher 10-12 times in a row and averaging out the times, not including top and bottom time)

So I'm going to increase the return hose from pump to bulkhead to 1" and see what happens. If not enough, bulkhead to 90 that leads to jet will be next.
 
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