Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method
- Thread starter snorvich
- Start date
skp
New member
I just put my Achilles tang in the QT after the last transfer yesterday. So far it looks good. It was actually already looking good after day 7.
- I used translucent 7 gallon sterilite bins. I just rinsed with cold tap water after each transfer.
- I used new airline and air stones after each transfer.
- I covered the bins while in use with the sterilite lid upside down.
- The fish would never go into the pvc (I guess it depends on the size and species) so I ended up not using it.
- I caught the fish with my hands moving slowly as not to startle it. I let the water drain through my hands, put the fish on a dry paper towel, then lifted the fish up by the ends of the paper towel like a stretcher and then dropped it into the new bin.
- I used translucent 7 gallon sterilite bins. I just rinsed with cold tap water after each transfer.
- I used new airline and air stones after each transfer.
- I covered the bins while in use with the sterilite lid upside down.
- The fish would never go into the pvc (I guess it depends on the size and species) so I ended up not using it.
- I caught the fish with my hands moving slowly as not to startle it. I let the water drain through my hands, put the fish on a dry paper towel, then lifted the fish up by the ends of the paper towel like a stretcher and then dropped it into the new bin.
Neurovet
New member
OK, so completed tank transfer succesfully on clown, desjardini, pipefish long nose hawk. Only loss is a naso tang which never ate well. My concern is a starry Blenny on day 7 and I've never seen him eat. Definitely losing weight. Any recommendations for getting him to eat for the rest of the TTM.
First Day of TT.
My question is, can I buy new coral still after I go through the whole process? Would it be possible for a frag plug or something that can carry the ich in one of it's form? Than I would need to restart the fallowing? Do I have to TT anything new I put in the DT because I can't treat it with copper? Any insight on this?
My question is, can I buy new coral still after I go through the whole process? Would it be possible for a frag plug or something that can carry the ich in one of it's form? Than I would need to restart the fallowing? Do I have to TT anything new I put in the DT because I can't treat it with copper? Any insight on this?
skp
New member
It's all about the amount of risk you want to take. If you don't want to take any risk then you need to quarantine anything wet for at least 72 days in a fishless tank. Tank transfer doesn't work on anything other than fish.
ThRoewer
New member
It would be best to have the store cut the frag plug off. Ich can not encyst on living coral tissue (the coral may actually eat it), only on dead coral skeletons, frag plugs or rock bases.
One of the LFS here does it for free if you ask them.
Confused about the stages, can someone clarify
Trophont phase (on fish) 3-7 days
protomont phase (free swimming) 2-18 hrs
tomont phase (cyst hardens) 8-18 hrs
tomites phase (splitting from tomont) 3-72 days (5-12 days avg)
theronts phase (free swimming) 6-48 hrs
theronts becomes trophonts?
for any non fish, would I worry only about tomont and tomite phases? That would be avg 5-12 days so the odds go down quick? QT corals for 3 weeks a safe practice?
Trophont phase (on fish) 3-7 days
protomont phase (free swimming) 2-18 hrs
tomont phase (cyst hardens) 8-18 hrs
tomites phase (splitting from tomont) 3-72 days (5-12 days avg)
theronts phase (free swimming) 6-48 hrs
theronts becomes trophonts?
for any non fish, would I worry only about tomont and tomite phases? That would be avg 5-12 days so the odds go down quick? QT corals for 3 weeks a safe practice?
Spar
New member
yes, for anything non-fish* a tomont/tomite could form on it. yes the 5-12 days average may be correct but you have to determine on your own what your risk tolerance is that the 72 days or longer doesn't happen. I personally isolate non-fish for 3 months just in case. but i don't have failure as an option given my tank size.
*non-fish can include literally anything wet, including live rock, urchins, hermits, macro algae, snails, you name it.
ThRoewer
New member
These are from P. Burgess' 1992 dissertation:
Later studies discovered that some cysts in some cases can hold out much longer - so far the longest confirmed cyst duration is 72 days, though longer times can't be ruled out.
It also seems there are quite some differences between different ich strains.
Later studies discovered that some cysts in some cases can hold out much longer - so far the longest confirmed cyst duration is 72 days, though longer times can't be ruled out.
It also seems there are quite some differences between different ich strains.
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Spar
New member
QT'ing non-fish is simply keeping them separated from fish for a period of time. whether that be 2 weeks or 12 weeks or somewhere in between (or longer perhaps).
you could do anything from a full-out reef setup (minus the fish) to a simple tank with no sand or rock, and just a pump, heater and PVC hiding places.
ThRoewer
New member
It depends very much on what you want to quarantine.
Shrimp and crabs are usually easy and don't need much beyond a heater and a pump or HOB filter. I would also recommend a skimmer
Corals and plants need additionally good light and maybe even dosing.
QT'ing nonfish. What is it that I would be observing? Coral diseases? Unwanted hitchhiker? Would TTM help any of this? I think if I'm following the ich, I would need to do 12 weeks minimum for all nonfish QT as well? Since I just started TTM, my plan is to do 2 weeks QT nonfish (coral/invert), then put them into DT and continue 58 more days fallowing.
Spar
New member
Observing for anything seemingly out of place as your primary goal; things you said like hitchhikers tiny or large, flatworms, redbugs, etc, etc.
TTM only works on fish, not not-fish.
12-weeks is the minimum recommended for trying to eliminate Ich. it is highly likely at that point that all ich stages have completed their life cycle without finding a host, thus died.
Your plan should work out great!
I am starting the tank transfer method however I am having some difficulty catching the fish put of the display. If I add a fish to the middle of the cycle does the whole cycle start over? From what I can figure by reading about the ich life cycle I think I am ok on doing 12 days per fish even if I add a new fish on day 6 for a different fish.
Correct?
Correct?
No. Clock restarts when any fish is added.
Spar
New member
This.
The main risk being if transferred over a therront. It could attach on to one of the prior fish. Perhaps this is a low risk but still very possible.
Irishman360
New member
Does the amount of fish going through TTM matter? I have 12 fish that need it and have 2 10 gallon tanks and one 20 gallon. I would like to do them all at once but I am worried about the ammonia spiking.
Spar
New member
Number of fish does not matter for TTM, but 12 fish in even a 20g is way over pushing it from an ammonia perspective. Even if they are all small fish.
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