Capt_Cully
Active member
Yes, that is on the table for sure. They vent on either side correct? Or is it circumferential at the top?
Cully's 120 build
- Thread starter Capt_Cully
- Start date
I just looked at mine - looks like it draws air from bottom center and pushes it out the sides which runs the air over the cooling fins - I would check with ecotech - you might be able to mount flush onto the canopy. if they say it's OK you would loose access to the buttons which let you do a manual override to turn the lights on- it's a nice feature - I use it when I'm cleaning the tank or whatever and it's late enough the lights are dim.
just make sure the canopy has a vent on it somewhere, preferably a low db 12v computer fan to move air out - should draw from the gap by the tank
just make sure the canopy has a vent on it somewhere, preferably a low db 12v computer fan to move air out - should draw from the gap by the tank
Capt_Cully
Active member
They recommended 2" between top of canopy and unit. I'm going to vent the top of the canopy, but the entire back side of it is open.
I will probably just drill some holes in a row and use long screws 80? 100mm? See what I can find. Maybe dip them in rubber paint except where they engage the unit. That will allow some leeway for moving them a tad this way or that, and access to the top.
I was planning on using a small air king fan under the stand and one in the canopy, maybe 2. I remember linking up the computer fans on the last tank ended up being a little painful.
I will probably just drill some holes in a row and use long screws 80? 100mm? See what I can find. Maybe dip them in rubber paint except where they engage the unit. That will allow some leeway for moving them a tad this way or that, and access to the top.
I was planning on using a small air king fan under the stand and one in the canopy, maybe 2. I remember linking up the computer fans on the last tank ended up being a little painful.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
Mark, instead of using the hanging cable, can you just attach the eyelet cables to the lights and use a couple of these screwed into the bottom side of the top of the hood:
Just trying to keep it simple here...
Just trying to keep it simple here...
Capt_Cully
Active member
Jeebus....why didn't I think of that...
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
Probably because you're not as simple-minded as I am.
Capt_Cully
Active member
CONTACT!
The Waveline DC6000 is really quiet, pushing some nice volume and giving great surface agitation.
The Bean is sounding a big like a toilet yet. Needs some tweaking and a few days of biofilm I'm sure.
Next step, while cycling, is to get the Apex on line.
The Waveline DC6000 is really quiet, pushing some nice volume and giving great surface agitation.
The Bean is sounding a big like a toilet yet. Needs some tweaking and a few days of biofilm I'm sure.
Next step, while cycling, is to get the Apex on line.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
Nize!
:thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
terrypercula
New member
Coming along!
erndog1001
Premium Member
Hey try Remetco on Bear street for those bolts .They've got every kind you can imagine.
About a block up on the left off of 690
About a block up on the left off of 690
Capt_Cully
Active member
Cool, thanks Ernie. That's actually on my way home from work. Will give them a try.
Capt_Cully
Active member
Here are the two solutions I've come up with.
Option 1:
$3 worth of M5x08 80mm long screws. They will leave about 1.5" between the top of the Radion and the hood.
Option 2:
About $17 worth of hooks and stainless steel carabiners that engage the eyelet screws rob used with the fixtures. A little less static of a solution.
Option 1:
$3 worth of M5x08 80mm long screws. They will leave about 1.5" between the top of the Radion and the hood.
Option 2:
About $17 worth of hooks and stainless steel carabiners that engage the eyelet screws rob used with the fixtures. A little less static of a solution.
erndog1001
Premium Member
Hmmm Looks like either way gets the job done..#1 is probably a bit cleaner look? BTW I stood down by my tank just now for like 5 min with my hand above the light The heat coming off the thing is almost nothing. The only place I feel any real heat is with my hand right under the lights. And by right under I mean practically touching them.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
The only thing I would caution with #1 is if you're an ape like me, you might accidentally knock your head into the light. I'm not sure if that would bend the bolts or damage the lights.
It looks like #2 would give a little bit if you accidentally bumped it.
It looks like #2 would give a little bit if you accidentally bumped it.
Capt_Cully
Active member
Number 2 (hold your potty jokes) is definitely in the lead for that reason. I just wish I could shorten the distance a bit. Smaller eyelets perhaps. That would make it easier to take them down for cleaning etc.
Capt_Cully
Active member
Using Radions in manual mode. Rehabbing an old laptop so I can get everything going in Ecosmart live. WXM is on the way.
Using this "cycle in a bottle" denitrifying bacterial culture to basically instantaneously seed my reincarnated previously dry, dead, rock.
Worked just fine at The Rosamond Gifford Zoo, in their giant octopus display. That's a $10000 animal, and it was thriving in that tank 48 hours after using the same product.
Using this "cycle in a bottle" denitrifying bacterial culture to basically instantaneously seed my reincarnated previously dry, dead, rock.
Worked just fine at The Rosamond Gifford Zoo, in their giant octopus display. That's a $10000 animal, and it was thriving in that tank 48 hours after using the same product.
JOESWOODWORKS
Member
Mark
I got to tell you I have been following along with your build and I wish I had the time to set my tank back up. The tank looks fantastic and I hope the Stand & Canopy is everything you wanted it to be.
Joe
I got to tell you I have been following along with your build and I wish I had the time to set my tank back up. The tank looks fantastic and I hope the Stand & Canopy is everything you wanted it to be.
Joe
