DIY Natureef Style Denitrator Build and Data thread...

I'm going to be breaking down my tank soon, and setting up a different one. When I break down the old one, I'm going to quarantine the fish, and the denitrator will stay on the old tank for about a month. How can I keep the bacteria alive with no fish in the system for a month? Just up the methanol dose?
 
I'm going to be breaking down my tank soon, and setting up a different one. When I break down the old one, I'm going to quarantine the fish, and the denitrator will stay on the old tank for about a month. How can I keep the bacteria alive with no fish in the system for a month? Just up the methanol dose?

You need to add nitrates to keep the cycle going. Lower the methanol dose and feed the tank raw shrimp to keep the nitrates up.
 
Ok thanks. Should I still cycle it? Or just dose it and feed the shrimp without cycling?
 
If it doesn't finish the cyle, it will die off, if it goes far beyond a cycle it will die off. I would imagine about 1-2 weeks stagnant at most, before it dies.
 
Ok thanks. Should I increase the cycling to three times a day or is two ok? I can add as much shrimp as needed.
 
You need to add nitrates to keep the cycle going. Lower the methanol dose and feed the tank raw shrimp to keep the nitrates up.

Not sure if it matters but do you mean feed the denitrator directly or feed the display? Also forgot to mention the display will still have corals and anemones and clean up crew while the new tank cycles.
 
Not sure if it matters but do you mean feed the denitrator directly or feed the display? Also forgot to mention the display will still have corals and anemones and clean up crew while the new tank cycles.

No, feed the tank it's connected to.

Will you be feeding the corals/anemone or clean up crew? You could give them some shrimp or other food to help fuel the nitrate production. You will need to adjust the dose of methanol down to the current nitrate level when cycling the denitrator.

Alternately, you could just remove a bunch of the bacteria from the chamber and put it in a plastic ziplock bag and store it in your frig. You would be starting the chamber over but at least you could save some starting bacteria.
 
Tank will still be lit and I hadn't planned on feeding them. It's a small clean up crew so a 300g should have plenty of life to support them. I will be removing a lot of the rock and doing a kalk bath, so there will be die off and therefore nitrates.

Right now I'm cycling twice a day. Is that number still fine in this situation, or should I bump it up to three and cut the overall methanol dose. Also should I stop dosing the strontium? I believe some of the rock is leeching phosphate...

Thanks for the help.
 
I have a quick question. I'm having a denitrator built and I wanted it to be black acrylic as it will sit next to my tank exposed to view. Will this hinder the bacteria growth?
 
It will not hinder growth at all in fact it will block out any light growing algae..... mine has a frosted look to it which you can not see through and the bacteria will be so thick you will not see through it
 
I dont think so.
Mine is not black but it's dark red in color on 3 sides.
I think that once bacteria grows on the sides it's really not a concern.
Bacteria mass is so thick that nothing will penetrate it IMO
 
I have a quick question. I'm having a denitrator built and I wanted it to be black acrylic as it will sit next to my tank exposed to view. Will this hinder the bacteria growth?

I agree; it will not hinder growth and will be easier to access for maint and cleaning. I would love to see it, please post pics when it's up and running.

Also, I make my own strontium solution (AKA: phosphagone) and methanol solution (aka: nitragone). PM me if you are interested in some.
 
I agree; it will not hinder growth and will be easier to access for maint and cleaning. I would love to see it, please post pics when it's up and running.

Also, I make my own strontium solution (AKA: phosphagone) and methanol solution (aka: nitragone). PM me if you are interested in some.
I will post pics and will definitely contact you when I get to that point. Thanks for the help.
 
anyone every have their water tested for strontium levels? I have been using the natureef reactor for 18 months now with phosphagone and strontium levels are over 30 compared to the target of 8.
 
anyone every have their water tested for strontium levels? I have been using the natureef reactor for 18 months now with phosphagone and strontium levels are over 30 compared to the target of 8.

I have the seachem Strontium test kit. It is VERY hard to use. I've also sent my water to triton for analysis (see attached)

As far as toxicities go, the most sensitive creatures in your tank to strontium are inverts. Mainly crabs, shrimp, and urchins. Fish and corals have a high tolerance for strontium. Personally, I check my level but dont worry about the results if inverts are ok.

Here's an article on strontium written by By Randy Holmes-Farley, Ph.D.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/11/chemistry

 
that would explain the recent increase in dead snail shells I have in my tank! I am going to dial back on the amount of phosphagone I am dosing. My po4 is holding steady at .02-.03 so I will see how much I can dial back before that shifts.
 
that would explain the recent increase in dead snail shells I have in my tank! I am going to dial back on the amount of phosphagone I am dosing. My po4 is holding steady at .02-.03 so I will see how much I can dial back before that shifts.
That could explain my snail mortality problem. I'll have to run a test.
 
I've been doing this a long time and mine are between 8-16. you should dial your strontium dose back, that is an unhealthy level....
W/C should help bring it down...
You may want to stop your Stontium dose all together until it gets down below 16....
 
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