DIY Stands Template and Calculator

One more question, is there a certain max ratio of stand height to width from a safety perspective (e.g. less likely to topple)?
 
Hi all. I recently purchased a 300 gallon deep dimensions tank and stand. The stand is made with 2x6 laminated with 3/4 plywood, glued and screwed. There are no canter braces, only the corner supports. Two questions.

First is does it require center braces? Im guessing no. I did a leak test and it didn't flex at all. I can add them if needed.

Second is that the top of the stand is not flat. The beams are topped with 1" 1x4's which are shimmed. Id like to add more 1x4's on top and shim them flat, but I dont know how thick they should be and what type of wood to use. Id like to use pine, hoping it would compress a little and conform to the tank and eliminate some of the gaps.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
All, thank you to everyone that has contributed to this extremely helpful thread. I went back about 20 pages but was unable to find an answer to my question.

I am planning on building a stand for a 40 breeder using pocket screws and 1x4s. I would like to be able to fit a narrow ato reservoir down below next to my 20L sump (30 inches wide) so I would like to widen the stand.

If the 40b is 36 inches wide, and I frame my stand to be a total width of 39 inches, only the front and back frame of my DT will be directly over the frame, but not the sides . Is this fine if I use a 3/4" ply or prefab pine board top? Or would I instead have to build more cross supports?

Such a long question for an extra measly 3 inches, but thank-you!

Since it's been a few weeks I thought I would bump this up to see if anyone might have any ideas. I can't imagine there would be bowing over just 18 inches when the front and back of the tank are over the stand, but figured I would see if anyone had any advice. Thanks!
 
quick question: would it OK to build a stand that is larger than the tank?
Especially if the tank sits on a plywood top, but not directly over the entire stand frame.
As long as the four corners of a glass tank are over the frame, it will be OK. If it's acrylic or won't reach the frame at the corners, I would use a 3/4" plywood insert into a frame like you see in photo's 3 through 5 in this article.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_stand2.php

I built six stands this way, and will probably build a few more in the spring, now that I have room.
 
Great thread RE! I am in the planning stages of my next tank and have decided (with some help) to build the stand for it. The tank will be 96x36x24 and I am wondering if 2x8's for the upper rails will be good enough or should I go with 2x10's?
 
Being 96" long you need at least one center leg. Depending on how you implement that will determine the size of the top rails.

If you place a leg dead center, you could get away with 2X6 as you are only spanning 48". On the other hand a 2X8 wouldn't hurt.
 
You can span 8 feet if you put a steel mending plate between two boards. The 2 by 6's would keep the steel from twisting, and the steel would keep the lumber from deflecting.
 
Does anyone know how this was done? I have what im asking for circled in red. Any step by step or can help point me in the right direction?

bGS5fMb.jpg
 
Does anyone know how this was done? I have what im asking for circled in red. Any step by step or can help point me in the right direction?

Ask they guy who did it.......

Take a pair of small blocks of wood, glue and screw it to the inside of the frame. screw the American DJ power strip into the wood blocks. Easy.
 
Being 96" long you need at least one center leg. Depending on how you implement that will determine the size of the top rails.

If you place a leg dead center, you could get away with 2X6 as you are only spanning 48". On the other hand a 2X8 wouldn't hurt.

I was planning on doing a center leg and forgot to write that. I think I'll go with 2x8's just for a little extra peace of mind.
 
Hi all,

Just wanted to add a pic of my stand I built from these plans. :) Many, many thanks for doing this thread, RocketEngineer.

Before the top:

IMG_20131031_222757022_zpsdcba98dc.jpg


After the top:

IMG_20131102_171359345_zps399398ab.jpg


If you see any potential issues, please let me know. :) This is for a Glass Cages 180g tank, so the whole bottom will be on styrofoam per their instructions. I used 2x8's for the upper rails so I didn't have to use a center brace. My wife is designing a facade to go around it to make it look nice.

Brandon
 
Can...

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2" These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.

be placed flat against the long axis of the top and bottom rails? I want to use these to help set the exact height and for level.

Thanks.
 
60 gallon marineland cube stand

60 gallon marineland cube stand

I am in process of setting up a 60 gallon Marineland RR cube I picked up (24" X 24" X 24" framed tank). I intend to make this my primary D/T in Dining Room (against exterior wall). My current tank for reference is a sump-less 90 gallon corner bow front tank.

I need some help with stand design. I have looked thru the thread and found a ton of useful information, but have a specific question based on my needs.

I would like to utilize a 20 long glass tank as a sump (or possibly a 30B if I could find such) . The 20L has dimensions of 30" x 12" x 12" (w x d x h)( 30" x 18" X 12" for 30B), and I would like to build a stand with the dimensions to house this in compartment below. Would this make a good sized sump?

The information presented in this thread reinforces the use of the stand to support the tank at the perimeter all the way to the floor (24" X 24" tank above).

What I was envisioning a stand with an overall width and depth of 31" X 31", with someway to support the load above of the 24" x 24" tank. How would I be able to build a stand that meets this demand? Possibly build a stand within a stand and connect as one? for reference, tank is framed version, not frameless. Am I over thinking, as is usual for me, this design?

Unsure on overall height of tank/stand height as yet, but certainly would like adequate inside working height for installation of a nice skimmer as well as room for B/P and GFO reactors.

I would appreciate any input.

Sincerely,

David
 
I need some advice please.
I am thinking of building a stand for a 96l x 42h x 36d acrylic tank.
How and who could help me with drawings for this?
Many thanks for your help.
 
I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer for searching:

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2" These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.

Is there a reason they don't go the entire length from top to bottom? Wouldn't that just function as additional support? What is the reasoning with limiting their length besides saving $1 in wood? What am I missing?
 
Please read the first post.

Brandon

If that's in answer to my question, the first post says:

*The green pieces are screw strips. These provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square.

This doesn't answer my question. It doesn't explain why they are shorter and if there is a problem not reducing their height.

Also, does anyone know what software everyone seems to be using to draw up the diagrams? Is it freeware?
 
Last edited:
bmanzie
Registered Member

Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Plantation,FL
Posts: 724
I need some advice please.
I am thinking of building a stand for a 96l x 42h x 36d acrylic tank.
How and who could help me with drawings for this?
Many thanks for your help.
 
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