DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Greysoul]

How important are the bottom rails and ends? We have wood floors and I wanted to look at following RocketEngineer layout but keeping it so I could get under the stand to wipe up water, etc. I envision using pocket screws and having the outer 8 2x4s act as legs to the ground. I would put rails and ends in between the legs a couple inches off the ground. Would I have to worry about the legs giving out at the bottom?

the bottom frame serves as a load spreader so all the wight of the tank isn't concentrated on the small area where the legs would contact the floor.

A 2x4 is 1.5x3.5 (nominal) which is 5.25 sq in. x8 that's 42 square inches of contact.

If you have a 600g tank, that's 600x8.556= 5133 lbs, plus tank, rock, sand, you're looking at maybe 5600 pounds, which would be a load of a hair over 133psi. A weak floor may bend and warp with that weight (not good), but you shouldn't punch through a well built floor.

load spreading... if you're on something like a raised floor with joists and wood and stuff, you probably want it (in addition to making sure the floor can support the weight, period). You could lower the load down to several psi, which is the point - you won't punch through the floor.

You can totally brace the legs higher up if you want, and if you don't need the load spreading, you can eliminate the bottom frame.

(note: I'm not an engineer, I'm not sure your floor can handle the load, etc... but IMHO you're good, like way over built good.)

 

[bmanzie]

Do you mean the extra legs?



If you use the right beam size for the top frame you don't really NEED the extra legs, so any you add should be enough.

Is that correct? I will be using a 2x8 for the top. I will be starting this soon and want to make sure I have planned it correctly.

 

[Greysoul]

Is that correct? I will be using a 2x8 for the top. I will be starting this soon and want to make sure I have planned it correctly.

probably...

If you're building a 600 gallon tank stand, then you probably need either a MUCH heavier beam, or you will have to use those extra legs. 2x8 is plenty to support up to a 72" long 210g tank, but I would think your tank would require a more substantial beam to span 96". Something like 3x10 beam or something, which are really expensive....

so I think you're doing it right with the extra bracing.

Consider a 2x8 top frame 6' long will support 200+ gallons. You have a 2x8 frame with a 4' span between the front legs (or is that back?) you're good for at least 400 gallons, plus whatever extra load bearing you get with the shorter span.

There are statics calculators, but the simple ones don't really tell you much and I'm not sure how to use the more complex ones. I think in your case you're probably ok, but I would personally want to wait for RE or someone who can run the calculations to chime in....

 

[smbsocal]

the bottom frame serves as a load spreader so all the wight of the tank isn't concentrated on the small area where the legs would contact the floor.

Good point I did not consider that. The reduced spread of the load could also damage the wood floors at the point of contact as well. :facepalm:

 

[bmanzie]

the bottom frame serves as a load spreader so all the wight of the tank isn't concentrated on the small area where the legs would contact the floor.

A 2x4 is 1.5x3.5 (nominal) which is 5.25 sq in. x8 that's 42 square inches of contact.

If you have a 600g tank, that's 600x8.556= 5133 lbs, plus tank, rock, sand, you're looking at maybe 5600 pounds, which would be a load of a hair over 133psi. A weak floor may bend and warp with that weight (not good), but you shouldn't punch through a well built floor.

load spreading... if you're on something like a raised floor with joists and wood and stuff, you probably want it (in addition to making sure the floor can support the weight, period). You could lower the load down to several psi, which is the point - you won't punch through the floor.

You can totally brace the legs higher up if you want, and if you don't need the load spreading, you can eliminate the bottom frame.

(note: I'm not an engineer, I'm not sure your floor can handle the load, etc... but IMHO you're good, like way over built good.)

Thank you for your explanation. The stand will actually sit on a concrete floor. I have a one story house.
I am seeing that some are suggesting more legs and some saying it is fine.
Rocketengineer suggested a few pages back that I should be ok with one leg in the center of the beam.
The back of the tank stand is the one with one center leg.

 

[Greysoul]

yeah I suspect one leg in the center should be ok.

if it were me I would probably use a 2x6 just for S&G.

 

[GoldeneyeRet]

Bottom frame question

Bottom frame question

Thank you for all the help provided by this thread!

Planning a stand for a 4x2x2 120. I am concerned with creating enough working height in the bottom of the stand without getting the stand too high.

Could I safely replace the bottom 2x4 frame with a 2' x 4' piece of 3/4 plywood laid flat on the floor with the support legs attached to it from the bottom? This would give me the extra headroom I need. The tank will go on a concrete floor that is currently covered with carpet and pad.

Thanks a lot for your opinions and expertise!

 

[bmanzie]

Rocketengineer I am hoping you could provide your guidance.

 

[bmanzie]

Rocketengineer I am hoping you could provide your guidance.

 

[mess7777]

Hi all,

Please accept my apologies if this has already been asked, but I can't find the answers using search and there is simply a lot of pages.

I have a standard 90g and want to build a more functional stand. I would ultimate like to have a lot of room underneath for the sump, dosing, etc....

Is it possible to build the stand longer, say 60" instead of 48", and 24" wide instead of 18". This way I have a ton of room underneath and if I ever upgrade it's ready to go.

The thing I don't know is if the design will distribute weight properly without the tank going to the corners. I could put a second beam the long way front and back for it to rest on....but I don't know if that is reasonable as I am a construction idiot.

 

[saintsnsinners]

What type of plywood do you guys prefer? I've been using 3/4" birch but it's $50 a sheet at the big box stores. is there a cheaper alternative that is also good quality?

 

[RocketEngineer]

You get what you pay for.

 

[ndtechie05]

What type of wood is best for the frame?

 

[reefermad619]

Hi all,

Please accept my apologies if this has already been asked, but I can't find the answers using search and there is simply a lot of pages.

I have a standard 90g and want to build a more functional stand. I would ultimate like to have a lot of room underneath for the sump, dosing, etc....

Is it possible to build the stand longer, say 60" instead of 48", and 24" wide instead of 18". This way I have a ton of room underneath and if I ever upgrade it's ready to go.

The thing I don't know is if the design will distribute weight properly without the tank going to the corners. I could put a second beam the long way front and back for it to rest on....but I don't know if that is reasonable as I am a construction idiot.

Interested in this too.

 

[SPotter]

Plywood between stand base and floor????

Plywood between stand base and floor????

Im thinking about adding a piece of 3/4" plywood between my stand base and hardwood floor....is there anything wrong with doing that? Im thinking about doing it to help minimize any damage to the floor that will have to be repaired if I ever take the tank down or decide to move. I was also thinking that this would help distribute weight a little more evenly.

 

[NAndryshak]

Hey guys, is a design like this feasible? I'd really prefer to have some legs sticking out the bottom of the stand. I'd like to make one for a 75 gallon (48x18 inches) and another for a 29 gallon (30x12 inches). Thanks!

 

[XStroX]

Thanks RocketEngineer for the design. I just finished my frame for a 90 gallon glass (48x18x15) and had two questions for anyone that wants to help. Keep in mind a thin (3/16") Skin will be going over the sides and front where there are not doors. The back would be something non structural to enclose if needed. See the below picture.

1. I want two doors which would hinge on 1x2s I was going to install at the red locations. The doors would meet in the middle over a 1x2 or 1x3 at the blue location. Will installing vertical 1x2s and/or 1x3s at these locations cause problems if the same supports are not in back? I'm just picturing these new veritical members picking up a lot of load as the aquarium tries to flex. In the front the aquarium would not be able to flex down while in back it would be able to. Should I worry about this?

2. Ideally I would love to be able to get a 36x12.5x13 glass sump in and out of the stand after the display tank is setup. Any ideas how to do this through the front while also having two doors hinged as mentioned above? If I made each door ~18" wide and removed the middle support that would probably work but then I would have a visible crack where the two doors meet in the middle. Light would escape through this a look bad.

Any help appreciated!

<a href="http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/XStroX/media/Slide1_zpsed6c0b52.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y406/XStroX/Slide1_zpsed6c0b52.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Slide1_zpsed6c0b52.jpg"/></a>

 

[Matthias7]

Just finished building the framework for my stand and wanted to ask a few questions before I skin the stand. I currently have a 75 gallon 48x18. I am hoping to get a 180 gallon 72x24 soonish. The stand measures 72.5x24.5x31. The top frame is 2x6. I built supports at 48in with legs in the back only for the 75 gallon. Do I need support in the front--2 more legs where the edges of the 75 will be? I will use 1/2 or 3/4 inch ply on the top and sides.

 

[Randyp79]

Gap between stand and tank

Gap between stand and tank

First, thank you all for such a wonderful thread that has given me a lot of great ideas for a custom stand.

I just finished my stand which with some slight modifications to rocketengineer's plans. I went for complete overkill and built this thing to be rock solid. I used 2x8 up top, 2x6 on the bottom, and a 2x4 w/ 2x6 for each leg. I thought the stand was perfectly square and flat, but when we sat the tank on the stand I could see about a 1/16 to 1/32 of an inch gap between half of the stand and the tank. The stand is perfectly level, so I don't think shimming the stand will work because then it would just make it un-level. I am certain that this gap is due to some small crowning on the 2x8's I used on the top. Here is a pic of my stand so far.

Any suggestions on how to remove this gap? Would you sand the high points? Thanks for everyone's help...

 

[greene.phillip]

First, thank you all for such a wonderful thread that has given me a lot of great ideas for a custom stand.

I just finished my stand which with some slight modifications to rocketengineer's plans. I went for complete overkill and built this thing to be rock solid. I used 2x8 up top, 2x6 on the bottom, and a 2x4 w/ 2x6 for each leg. I thought the stand was perfectly square and flat, but when we sat the tank on the stand I could see about a 1/16 to 1/32 of an inch gap between half of the stand and the tank. The stand is perfectly level, so I don't think shimming the stand will work because then it would just make it un-level. I am certain that this gap is due to some small crowning on the 2x8's I used on the top. Here is a pic of my stand so far.

Any suggestions on how to remove this gap? Would you sand the high points? Thanks for everyone's help...

Belt sander or perhaps plane?