I did a little research on this (I've got a ton of 2x4, 2x6, and 2x8 I bought a week or two ago from Lowes, and some from HD). As long as the little white tags at the end say KD, or Kiln Dried, you're safe! I did find that one of the boards has warped more than it was, but I'm attributing that to the way I stored it (wedged against the wall at an angle)
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
I did a little research on this (I've got a ton of 2x4, 2x6, and 2x8 I bought a week or two ago from Lowes, and some from HD). As long as the little white tags at the end say KD, or Kiln Dried, you're safe! I did find that one of the boards has warped more than it was, but I'm attributing that to the way I stored it (wedged against the wall at an angle)
NativeKeeper
New member
Hi all. Yep, like most in this thread I have a question about my stand build. LOL I've read through about 1000 posts and didn't really see an answer to my question so sorry if it was in the 5000 posts I didn't read. :spin2:
My tank is 125 gal 72x18x23. I want my stand to be only 30" tall. But I have a sump that needs to go under the tank and height clearance is an issue.
So I only want to use 2x4 for top frame. The front & back will have 2 upright supports BUT they won't be in the center more like 1/3's. I want to have about a 36" opening in center & on either side the uprights will be about 16" or 18" in from the pink corner legs. Not sure on exact dimensions yet but want to know if this is possible first.
The bottom will have 1/2" plywood under the bottom frame .. will the sump weight put to much pressure on it & maybe rack the frame?
I might put 1/2" plywood on top of frame (if needed). And probably 1/4" of something on the sides. Back can either be open or I can put 1/4" there as well if needed.
Here's some more questions:
1) Is the front bottom 2x4 needed if I'm going to use 1/2" plywood on the very bottom?
1a) Or can I just use 2x4's from the corner pink uprights to my purple uprights but no 2x4 in front of the 36" opening? Does this help or not?
1b) If bottom 2x4 rail is needed all the way across, can I lay it flat on it's 4" side instead.
2) Will the 2 non-centered uprights be enough support using only 2x4 top frame & only partial or flat 2x4 bottom rail?
My badly done drawing but maybe you can see what I'm wanting to do. LOL I didn't have an app to do a better job.
This GARF 135 gal stand -front view- is similar to what I'm trying to do but without the bottom 2x4 (at least for the whole 73") but with 1/2" plywood under bottom. Plus extra leg support. For some reason those photos just confuse me where to screw stuff.
If needed I can double up the front top 2x4 if I can figure out how that would work with this design so that both 73" 2x4's are supported good at the ends & still use the green screw strip boards. Maybe my brain is just fried after so much reading. :hmm4:
Thanks for any guidance ya'll can offer. It would really be appreciated.
My tank is 125 gal 72x18x23. I want my stand to be only 30" tall. But I have a sump that needs to go under the tank and height clearance is an issue.
So I only want to use 2x4 for top frame. The front & back will have 2 upright supports BUT they won't be in the center more like 1/3's. I want to have about a 36" opening in center & on either side the uprights will be about 16" or 18" in from the pink corner legs. Not sure on exact dimensions yet but want to know if this is possible first.
The bottom will have 1/2" plywood under the bottom frame .. will the sump weight put to much pressure on it & maybe rack the frame?
I might put 1/2" plywood on top of frame (if needed). And probably 1/4" of something on the sides. Back can either be open or I can put 1/4" there as well if needed.
Here's some more questions:
1) Is the front bottom 2x4 needed if I'm going to use 1/2" plywood on the very bottom?
1a) Or can I just use 2x4's from the corner pink uprights to my purple uprights but no 2x4 in front of the 36" opening? Does this help or not?
1b) If bottom 2x4 rail is needed all the way across, can I lay it flat on it's 4" side instead.
2) Will the 2 non-centered uprights be enough support using only 2x4 top frame & only partial or flat 2x4 bottom rail?
My badly done drawing but maybe you can see what I'm wanting to do. LOL I didn't have an app to do a better job.
This GARF 135 gal stand -front view- is similar to what I'm trying to do but without the bottom 2x4 (at least for the whole 73") but with 1/2" plywood under bottom. Plus extra leg support. For some reason those photos just confuse me where to screw stuff.
If needed I can double up the front top 2x4 if I can figure out how that would work with this design so that both 73" 2x4's are supported good at the ends & still use the green screw strip boards. Maybe my brain is just fried after so much reading. :hmm4:
Thanks for any guidance ya'll can offer. It would really be appreciated.
greene.phillip
New member
Oh RocketEngineer. I do wish you had nothing better to do than answer our inquiries on demand. Seriously though, I know you've got many other things to spend your time on, but if you get a chance I would certainly appreciate your input
ndrwater
New member
Nativekeeper-
Your design has a couple of flaws, but nothing major. As I mentioned to Matthias, the whole idea is to transfer the load evenly.
The 1/2" plywood on the bottom of the entire stand really wont serve much structural propose. I would suggest that if you want to put a plywood bottom in the stand (I did with mine) I would run the bottom 2x4's continuously across the bottom of the tank and then putting the plywood on top of that. The idea of the continuous 2x4 on the bottom is to evenly distribute the weight of the tank to the floor below. If you were to use just legs as you had drawn, the load would be transferred to the floor on only the areas below the legs. While this is probably okay for a smaller tank, I wouldn't risk it on a larger tank.
The center 36" opening you mentioned will work with the additional center supports you drew. The additional plywood firmly secured (glued and screwed) to a continuous bottom 2x4 will help eliminate any "racking" of the legs/supports making the entire stand structure more stable and secure.
The way I did mine was to notch the corners of the plywood around the vertical legs, and secure the plywood to the top of the bottom 2x4's thus creating a solid internal base to support my sump and additional equipment
Lastly, you could PROBABLY get away with just a 2x4 top rail, but better safe than sorry if you have the option for a 2x6, do it.
Remember, any dimensional lumber is strongest when the weight to be carried is along the end of the lumber. i.e. a 2x4 on edge is exponentially stronger than a 2x4 on the flat.
If you would like, I can post some photos of my stand as it is currently. I am just beginning to start my build, and can easily show pictures of the stand and how I built it. I will say, that with Rocketengineer's basic plans and a little of my own knowhow, my stand will easily support the 240 gallon tank I am putting on it. In fact, if there were ever an earthquake strong enough for me to worry about, I know that under my tank will be a very safe place to be indeed...
Your design has a couple of flaws, but nothing major. As I mentioned to Matthias, the whole idea is to transfer the load evenly.
The 1/2" plywood on the bottom of the entire stand really wont serve much structural propose. I would suggest that if you want to put a plywood bottom in the stand (I did with mine) I would run the bottom 2x4's continuously across the bottom of the tank and then putting the plywood on top of that. The idea of the continuous 2x4 on the bottom is to evenly distribute the weight of the tank to the floor below. If you were to use just legs as you had drawn, the load would be transferred to the floor on only the areas below the legs. While this is probably okay for a smaller tank, I wouldn't risk it on a larger tank.
The center 36" opening you mentioned will work with the additional center supports you drew. The additional plywood firmly secured (glued and screwed) to a continuous bottom 2x4 will help eliminate any "racking" of the legs/supports making the entire stand structure more stable and secure.
The way I did mine was to notch the corners of the plywood around the vertical legs, and secure the plywood to the top of the bottom 2x4's thus creating a solid internal base to support my sump and additional equipment
Lastly, you could PROBABLY get away with just a 2x4 top rail, but better safe than sorry if you have the option for a 2x6, do it.
Remember, any dimensional lumber is strongest when the weight to be carried is along the end of the lumber. i.e. a 2x4 on edge is exponentially stronger than a 2x4 on the flat.
If you would like, I can post some photos of my stand as it is currently. I am just beginning to start my build, and can easily show pictures of the stand and how I built it. I will say, that with Rocketengineer's basic plans and a little of my own knowhow, my stand will easily support the 240 gallon tank I am putting on it. In fact, if there were ever an earthquake strong enough for me to worry about, I know that under my tank will be a very safe place to be indeed...
NativeKeeper
New member
ndrwater .. thanks for the replying & the input. The problem is I'm trying to make my stand only 30" tall. Making a big enough opening for the sump is proving challenging. It's the reason for wanting to use 2x4 on top frame rather than 2x6.
The tallest part of sump is 24" tall including the PVC fittings. Doing the plywood on top of the 2x4 bottom frame means I lose 3.5" & wouldn't be able to get the sump in there.
By not having a full bottom front frame does that mean the weight wouldn't be distributed evenly? edit: What are the consequences of en-even weight distribution? Does the plywood on the very bottom do anything to distribute the weight?
I may be trying to do the impossible here wanting only 30" tall stand.
The tallest part of sump is 24" tall including the PVC fittings. Doing the plywood on top of the 2x4 bottom frame means I lose 3.5" & wouldn't be able to get the sump in there.
By not having a full bottom front frame does that mean the weight wouldn't be distributed evenly? edit: What are the consequences of en-even weight distribution? Does the plywood on the very bottom do anything to distribute the weight?
I may be trying to do the impossible here wanting only 30" tall stand.
Last edited:
ndrwater
New member
Native-
The plywood serves 2 purposes. First and foremost is to hold the equipment below. Secondly, the plywood prevents the legs and whole stand from racking. i.e. leaning one way or another.
You were concerned about losing 3 1/2" at the bottom by putting the 2x4's on end. Because the top rails are actually supporting the weight of the tank, and... transferring the load to the legs, you can get away with putting the bottom 2x4's on the "flat" thus gaining 2". The bottom 2x4's are there to hopefully evenly distribute the weight of the tank to whatever it is sitting on.
As an example of why this is a good idea, if you had a wood floor, placing the weight of a large (100+ gallons) tank on a small area like the end of a 2x4, there is a greater than likely possibility of forever denting the floor. If the floor was tile, you could possibly crack the tile.
The whole idea is to distribute the weight to a greater surface area. An example of this is why tracked vehicles (i.e. tank) is much better on a soft surface like sand than a wheeled vehicle. The contact point to the ground is greatly increased and weight distributed. A wheeled vehicle has only the contact point of the tire to bear the weight of the vehicle.
I know that you had mentioned a 30" tall stand, but unless you have a height constraint, you might look at going the extra couple of inches to get the space you need.
I went a bit overkill on mine knowing that I would have a LARGE skimmer and additional equipment. My stand is actually 42". I had the room that you may not have, but I think you would be disappointed in the end if you had any issues further down the line that you could potentially prevent by going a couple of inches higher.
Hope this helps-:lol2:
The plywood serves 2 purposes. First and foremost is to hold the equipment below. Secondly, the plywood prevents the legs and whole stand from racking. i.e. leaning one way or another.
You were concerned about losing 3 1/2" at the bottom by putting the 2x4's on end. Because the top rails are actually supporting the weight of the tank, and... transferring the load to the legs, you can get away with putting the bottom 2x4's on the "flat" thus gaining 2". The bottom 2x4's are there to hopefully evenly distribute the weight of the tank to whatever it is sitting on.
As an example of why this is a good idea, if you had a wood floor, placing the weight of a large (100+ gallons) tank on a small area like the end of a 2x4, there is a greater than likely possibility of forever denting the floor. If the floor was tile, you could possibly crack the tile.
The whole idea is to distribute the weight to a greater surface area. An example of this is why tracked vehicles (i.e. tank) is much better on a soft surface like sand than a wheeled vehicle. The contact point to the ground is greatly increased and weight distributed. A wheeled vehicle has only the contact point of the tire to bear the weight of the vehicle.
I know that you had mentioned a 30" tall stand, but unless you have a height constraint, you might look at going the extra couple of inches to get the space you need.
I went a bit overkill on mine knowing that I would have a LARGE skimmer and additional equipment. My stand is actually 42". I had the room that you may not have, but I think you would be disappointed in the end if you had any issues further down the line that you could potentially prevent by going a couple of inches higher.
Hope this helps-:lol2:
ndrwater
New member
Native-
I was just looking at your drawing again, and re-read you question. I have a few more thoughts.
Uneven weight distribution could cause unneeded stresses in various parts of the tank, potentially causing failure. If the tank weren't level and or twisted because of an unleveled or twisted stand, the stresses in the joints could be potentially greater than the joint was designed to handle. True of glass/silicone or even the welded joint of acrylic.
The 1/2" plywood on the very bottom of the stand WILL help prevent racking... sort of... I would however add a vertical 1/2" piece to the back of the stand between the upper and lower 2x4's (2x6 Upper??) if this is the direction you chose to go.
As far as a 1/2" piece of ply helping to distribute the weight, again... sort of.... I can tell you from experience that while a 1/2" piece of plywood is strong, it was never designed to carry the weight of a heavy fish tank. I think that a 2x4 on the flat at the bottom is better than the ply. Reason being, the weight of the tank being transferred by the 2x4 legs would actually transfer THROUGH the 1/2" ply.
You could do the opening in the middle bottom as you had drawn, but I would make that opening no more than a third of the overall tank width. Less the bigger the tank gets.
mlcjohnson16
New member
Can I replace the 2x4s around the bottom of the stand with 2x3s or ideally 2x2s? It seems that they are just acting to spread out the weight. I'm planning on using dotcommers roll out sump underneath and would like to keep the PVC to 2" diameter for the rollers if possible. Otherwise I'll just put plywood underneath the stand to raise the height of the bottom of the sump to clear it. Here is a link to that thread.
http://web1.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21484137
http://web1.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21484137
Hey guys, I just finished my frame and I'm hoping to get your comments if this thing will be okay before skinning it.
1st of, here's a pic of my tank's overflow
There's that area behind the two overflows I wanna use for my return pipe and other wires instead of running them outside the cabinet. It's free of water.
Here's my stand so far
front. That's 30 inches in the middle with no pillar cause that's how much I need to squeeze in my 40 breeder I'm using as a sump.
back
I have to cut off the middle rear span (where the wood glue is sitting) as it is blocking the access. If I do this, will this stand still work or will it compromise the whole thing? It's for a 180 gallon by the way. My plan is to add a short piece about halfway from the bottom as well as skin the whole back with one piece of plywood, either 1/2 or 3/4. I think I'm gonna do this after I skin all the other sides.
I was half way done when I saw this thread so my design is different. It was around that time I found out I was supposed to use kiln dried wood instead of more expensive ones I got :lolspin:.
Oh btw, is it okay to use this plywood?
and most use kilz 2 right? Thanks!
1st of, here's a pic of my tank's overflow
There's that area behind the two overflows I wanna use for my return pipe and other wires instead of running them outside the cabinet. It's free of water.
Here's my stand so far
front. That's 30 inches in the middle with no pillar cause that's how much I need to squeeze in my 40 breeder I'm using as a sump.
back
I have to cut off the middle rear span (where the wood glue is sitting) as it is blocking the access. If I do this, will this stand still work or will it compromise the whole thing? It's for a 180 gallon by the way. My plan is to add a short piece about halfway from the bottom as well as skin the whole back with one piece of plywood, either 1/2 or 3/4. I think I'm gonna do this after I skin all the other sides.
I was half way done when I saw this thread so my design is different. It was around that time I found out I was supposed to use kiln dried wood instead of more expensive ones I got :lolspin:.
Oh btw, is it okay to use this plywood?
and most use kilz 2 right? Thanks!
NativeKeeper
New member
Skip this one .. You answered this further down. Can't figure out how to do strikethrough here. I assume this is true even if the plywood is under the 2x4 frame?
Is this true if only the front 2x4 frame is laid "flat"? While the other 3 would still be on the edge.
It will be sitting on carpeted concrete in the basement. I'm debating whether to remove the carpeting in that area so it will sit directly on the concrete.
Kinda sorta makes a little bit more sense now. I still have trouble understanding weight distribution.
I think I've decided to change the design & add 2" in height. I'd still prefer to lay ONLY the front 2x4 "flat" though to make getting the sump in/out easier.
I have the room to make it taller, viewing is the reason for wanting it shorter. This tank will be viewable from font/back. The back side I like to sit on my couch to enjoy the tank & watch the fish. My current stand is 36" tall which means I have to crane my neck to look up. While 36" is good for front viewing I'm lazy & like to sit. :lol2:
I was wondering if uneven weight distribution could cause problems with the tank. I use a 6' level & first make sure the stand is level. Then I put the tank on the stand, check both along the front & back length wise & then check front TO back depth. Then I add water & check again. So in other words I do get my tanks very level .. a 6' level makes it so much easier.
Ok .. so the bottom plywood does SORT OF help with racking. Kind of what I thought.
Well it was going to have 3 sides of 2x4 on edge plus the plywood under that. I thought the weight would transfer down the legs & out the 3 sides of 2x4 & also to the plywood to spread it out even more .. OH wait .. So rather than the plywood distributing weight down to the floor it would just spread out across the plywood & not transfer to floor because the further you get from the legs the less downward force is applied? Or do I still not understand?
So if I have 4 bottom rails will the plywood under the frame be ok or still mess with weight distribution? Especially with the addition of front/back center supports.
I was worried about not having a complete bottom frame. I haven't seen one yet that didn't one, other than those that put the 2x4 "frame" up off the bottom a couple inches, which then is not really a frame. To me only serves to stabilize the stand while all the weight is going down through the legs & to the floor .. not really distributing it.
I didn't like having not center support especially since I'm only using 2x4 for top rail. The way I had it designed it put the supports too far from the center. Plus it made those 2 end openings kind of narrow for my purposes. So decided to change that design.
I'll have 2x4 on edge for sides & back bottom rail but the front 2x4 will be laid "flat". Will this be ok with just one 2x4 "flat" while the other 3 aren't?
I'll have 2-2x4's in the center. One in between the top & bottom rails the 2nd will be screwed to the center 2x4 running front to back & top/bottom rails. It will be similar to the corner legs in other words.
Same setup in the back.
Will I still need plywood on the back if I have one on bottom & 2 sides? Can I just use a diagonal cross brace instead on the back? It serves as my sofa end table. LOL
Sorry for being so difficult, asking so many questions & making such a long post. It was easier to read, understand & answer by quoting both posts. I really do appreciate your help.
mlcjohnson16
New member
Hey all - excellent thread!
Maybe this was answered somewhere - but with sooooo many pages I couldn't read them all.
Basically - can I replace the 2x4s that make up the bottom rim of the stand with 2x2s? I am hoping to create a roll-out sump like the one that dotcommer had in a post and would like to keep the lip on the front of the front bottom of the stand as small as possible.
I'm thinking since it is just redistributing weight - it would be ok... but not sure what anyone else thinks.
Here is his sump by the way:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2291687&highlight=roll+out+sump
Thanks!
Maybe this was answered somewhere - but with sooooo many pages I couldn't read them all.
Basically - can I replace the 2x4s that make up the bottom rim of the stand with 2x2s? I am hoping to create a roll-out sump like the one that dotcommer had in a post and would like to keep the lip on the front of the front bottom of the stand as small as possible.
I'm thinking since it is just redistributing weight - it would be ok... but not sure what anyone else thinks.
Here is his sump by the way:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2291687&highlight=roll+out+sump
Thanks!
greene.phillip
New member
I have no real basis here, but I think I would roll the 2x4 on the flat side instead of using 2x2 unless it really gets in the way that way.
ReefWhatYouSow
New member
Friend and I are making a steel stand for my 210 using 2" square tubing.
Should the top of the stand (where the aquarium will sit in it) be the exact size of the bottom of the tank (where the stand and tank are flush all around)? Or she there be a little extra of the stand sticking out?
Thanks!
Should the top of the stand (where the aquarium will sit in it) be the exact size of the bottom of the tank (where the stand and tank are flush all around)? Or she there be a little extra of the stand sticking out?
Thanks!
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
This thread is about wood stands but the issue you need to consider applies to both. The "square" tubing has rounded corners just like the "square" boards do. For that reason, I recommend going 0.5" to 1" larger than the footprint of the tank so that the tank is sitting on the flat portions.
ReefWhatYouSow
New member
I apologize. I didn't notice, but thank you for still giving guidance. That makes a lot of sense.
Thanks!
I'm in the throws of building up my stand for my glass 180. Came up with a few questions, and hopefully someone can help me out. Here's my part list :
Notes:
- Tank Dimensions : 72.5" x 25.5" x 25.7"
- Sump's going into the basement
- Planning on skinning it with sides that can be mounted with magnets and removed easily... not sure how to do this yet though...
Wood:
- (2) Red - 2x8 - 72.5"
- (5) Yellow - 2x8 - 22.5"
- (4) Green - N/A (Pocket Screws)
- (12) Purple - 2x4 - 30"
- (2) Orange - 2x4 - 72.5"
- (5) Blue - 2x4 - 22.5"
I intend to add 5 cross beams (yes, I believe I don't *need* them with the 2x8's, but for the like 10 bucks, I think it'll be a-ok)
Questions:
1) I'm planning on using Pocket Screws (2 1/2") and a Kreg Pocket Jig. Anyone have any concerns about this over using screw strips ?
2) Originally, I purchased white fir to be used for this, but I'm finding it hard to keep from splitting, and/or cracking. I'm thinking about changing it out for Douglas Fir, anyone used douglas fir?
3) I'm not sure if I should put something over the top to rest the tank on, my gut says yes, but I'm not sure if it's a good, or a bad thing. Anyone have any structural reason to do so?
Thanks in advance!
Notes:
- Tank Dimensions : 72.5" x 25.5" x 25.7"
- Sump's going into the basement
- Planning on skinning it with sides that can be mounted with magnets and removed easily... not sure how to do this yet though...
Wood:
- (2) Red - 2x8 - 72.5"
- (5) Yellow - 2x8 - 22.5"
- (4) Green - N/A (Pocket Screws)
- (12) Purple - 2x4 - 30"
- (2) Orange - 2x4 - 72.5"
- (5) Blue - 2x4 - 22.5"
I intend to add 5 cross beams (yes, I believe I don't *need* them with the 2x8's, but for the like 10 bucks, I think it'll be a-ok
)Questions:
1) I'm planning on using Pocket Screws (2 1/2") and a Kreg Pocket Jig. Anyone have any concerns about this over using screw strips ?
2) Originally, I purchased white fir to be used for this, but I'm finding it hard to keep from splitting, and/or cracking. I'm thinking about changing it out for Douglas Fir, anyone used douglas fir?
3) I'm not sure if I should put something over the top to rest the tank on, my gut says yes, but I'm not sure if it's a good, or a bad thing. Anyone have any structural reason to do so?
Thanks in advance!
moondoggy4
Team RC
go big
go big
Yes it is possible, I thought about doing that for a cube tank nice tank lousy sump area. For yours you will have to think inside out, the inside of the stand must hold the tank just like the drawings do, then add a false front and sides for the added dimensions.
go big
Yes it is possible, I thought about doing that for a cube tank nice tank lousy sump area. For yours you will have to think inside out, the inside of the stand must hold the tank just like the drawings do, then add a false front and sides for the added dimensions.
