DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Randyp79]

Used a planer and topped with a sheet of 1/4" plywood. I think the tank will sit flush on the stand now.

Anyway, I am wondering what type of wood you guys use to skin your frame? Pine is cheap but I hear it is a pain to stain. Oak is expensive but I hear it stains better, but I can't find any oak trim at Lowes or Home Depot. What did everyone else use to skin?

Thanks

 

[wildara]

RocketEngineer,

I am going to build a stand for my 389 gal tank 96"x30"x30". The stand is going to be 42" high. It will also have three openings with no span over 32" and a solid plywood back.

I have seen that there have been instances on this thread where 2x4 lumber is not square and causes problems down the road.

I have a couple of questions.One is could I use 3/4" plywood cut to 3.5" and laminated with West Systems epoxy to create in effect a 2x4 that would be as strong or stronger than 2x4 lumber? The second is would I have to use anything larger than 2x4 with no span over 32" even though it's a 389 gallon tank.

As a layman I can only relate in layman's terms. My stand is approx 20 square feet with a tank that weighs 5000lbs that about 250lbs per square foot. I think somewhere in this thread the shear weight for a 2x4 is 19000lbs or PSI. I think I should be fine but??? I am not an engineer!!

Using my laminated 2x4's could I then use your stand building system to build a stand strong enough for my 389 gallon tank?

I have looked into the GARF stand calculator and have calculated that my stand as built by that system would weigh in at something like 400lbs.

I want to overbuild this stand, but I don't want to have to have a party for the neighborhood to move it into my living room.It's a lot of beer and someone always gets hurt!

 

[dangros]

Thanks Rocket! Here's the beginning of my contribution:

 

[dangros]

I do have one question, however:
Using rocketEngineers's plans, does any one know if it matters whether the green boards are facing the sides or the front/back? Mine are as pictured in his page (facing sides) but in most plans, I see them the other direction as shown here:
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...d_Template.jpg
vs
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1169964

 

[Astex]

I don't remember seeing a picture of an actual double stand, so below is the one I built for two 40g breeders to temporarily house my fish. Please overlook that it's a freshwater tank. Stand design is great and as sturdy as can be.

 

[dangros]

anyone?

I do have one question, however:
Using rocketEngineers's plans, does any one know if it matters whether the green boards are facing the sides or the front/back? Mine are as pictured in his page (facing sides) but in most plans, I see them the other direction as shown here:
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...d_Template.jpg
vs
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1169964

 

[RocketEngineer]

dangros, the orientation of the green boards make not difference. I normally have them so they tuck behind both purple boards rather than stick out but that's just a preference to provide the most surface for glue/screws.

 

[hlaalu]

Can someone give me a nod of approval? This stand is for my new 120 gal, 48x24x24 tank. The top is a 2x6 frame, and each corner has 2 2x4 making contact from top frame to bottom frame. I also have 2 2x4 in the back center for support, and 1 2x4 in the front center for support. The top is 3/4 OSB, as is the bottom shelf. I'm wondering if I need any corner bracing to prevent side to side shearing? Thanks for the help!

 

[Greysoul]

...could I use 3/4" plywood cut to 3.5" and laminated with West Systems epoxy to create in effect a 2x4 that would be as strong or stronger than 2x4 lumber?

An engineered beam as you describe would be stronger than a standard 2x4. I would use gorilla wood glue instead of epoxy... you could seal it with epoxy, but wood glue is made for gluing wood.

The second is would I have to use anything larger than 2x4 with no span over 32" even though it's a 389 gallon tank.

Probably not, but if you're going to be making your beams from plywood why not step up to a full 4" (or more) just to be on the safe side? you said you want to over build it... this would be a point where you could add considerable extra strength for minimal weight increase.

I think somewhere in this thread the shear weight for a 2x4 is 19000lbs...

I believe that was the calculated bursting failure load under ideal compression, not shear load or empirical test results...

I want to overbuild this stand, but I don't want to have to have a party for the neighborhood to move it into my living room.It's a lot of beer and someone always gets hurt!

Get some of those plastic (teflon coated?) furniture moving plates.... I've used them to move a 3000# dining room table, 1500# safes, pianos, etc... should work fine.

FWIW, I will be making plywood beams to replace the 2x8 beams for my 180g tank, I'm shooting for a finished size of 1.5x7. Each 72" beam should be enough to hold the entire tank by itself (what a balancing act that would be...)

hope that helps.

 

[SMDavis]

This is the question....

This is the question....

Hi all,

Please accept my apologies if this has already been asked, but I can't find the answers using search and there is simply a lot of pages.

I have a standard 90g and want to build a more functional stand. I would ultimate like to have a lot of room underneath for the sump, dosing, etc....

Is it possible to build the stand longer, say 60" instead of 48", and 24" wide instead of 18". This way I have a ton of room underneath and if I ever upgrade it's ready to go.

The thing I don't know is if the design will distribute weight properly without the tank going to the corners. I could put a second beam the long way front and back for it to rest on....but I don't know if that is reasonable as I am a construction idiot.

I would love some insight into this query......any takers??:idea:

 

[Mashtun]

Hello,

I am getting ready to put the back on my stand tomorrow, and I was wondering if it would be best to cover the whole back or should I leave a gap somewhere. Like maybe leave 1/4 of the back wall open across the top. If I cover the whole back I was planning on putting in 2 PC fans bowing in, and two vent holes to allow air going out. I'm just not sure what will be the best option.

Thanks for any input.

Below is a picture of the stand in progress. It is a pine frame and maple exterior. The front there will of course have doors and drawers (or probably just false drawer fronts) the back will be a sheet of 1/4" ply.

 

[hlaalu]

here is what I did. Basically for side to side support (shearing?) of the whole frame. I'm leaving the rest of the back open for ventilation and access.

 

[greene.phillip]

I've gained a lot of good info from this thread. I'm curious as some others are about offset legs. I've got a 90gal 4' tank and I would like to be able to use a 4' sump under it which means a 4' outside dimension stand doesn't work out. I've designed this in sketchup but not sure if it would be safe.

The top frame is 2x6, bottom is 2x4. Plywood you see is 3/4". The only important piece not shown is the back 'screw boards', they would be present though.

Would this work safely?

 

[dangros]

I'm warped

I'm warped

Thanks Rocket! This thread is so valuable to so many that it should be it's own website.
One more question and I apologize if it's basic: After getting the frame completed, I was disappointed to see that I had a gap between the tank and the 48" beams. After disassembling the stand, I realized most of the boards are quite warped in spite of my best efforts to pick out the straightest pieces at HD. I went back to get 4 more boards and carefully lined them up on the floor to make sure they were straight. After cutting them again, I realized they were warped too!! Where do u guys get the wood? I want to make sure the stand is flush w/the floor and tank!

dangros, the orientation of the green boards make not difference. I normally have them so they tuck behind both purple boards rather than stick out but that's just a preference to provide the most surface for glue/screws.

 

[greene.phillip]

Thanks Rocket! This thread is so valuable to so many that it should be it's own website.
One more question and I apologize if it's basic: After getting the frame completed, I was disappointed to see that I had a gap between the tank and the 48" beams. After disassembling the stand, I realized most of the boards are quite warped in spite of my best efforts to pick out the straightest pieces at HD. I went back to get 4 more boards and carefully lined them up on the floor to make sure they were straight. After cutting them again, I realized they were warped too!! Where do u guys get the wood? I want to make sure the stand is flush w/the floor and tank!

You may have better luck at a lumber yard instead of a home center type store. Or you may end up having to sand/plane the boards to a flat surface. Dang trees won't grow straight!

 

[dangros]

Seems that way. After doing some research, it seems that leaving the boards laying on the floor w/o anything between them to let air circulate evenly, in a room with drastically different humidity from where they were stored could also create more warping due to one side drying out more than another. I'm not sure I buy that but I can say that they were much straighter when I brought them home than a week later. My basement is super cool and dry due to the blower being down in there.

I've also read that you have to do the best you can and then cut accordingly so I'm going to try and make sure the cuts are better and things are more lined up this time around.
Was kind of funny. I was watching some youtube vids of people making stands and I could even see some warping in them! Made me chuckle and cry at the same time. Cant wait for those genetically modified straight trees!! They will look like this: Y

You may have better luck at a lumber yard instead of a home center type store. Or you may end up having to sand/plane the boards to a flat surface. Dang trees won't grow straight!

 

[ndrwater]

Here are my 2 cents on the matter of warping/cupping. If you buy 2x4's (or any other dimensional lumber for that matter, at the local Home Depot etc, chances are you are buying "green" wood. This means that the moisture content in an individual piece is significantly higher than you would want to build a piece of furniture.
The pieces then taken to a new location (i.e. your house) they are subjected to a different ambient humidity and tend to warp or twist. The reason for this is that the boards are now drying and moving. if you want to lessen the degree of twist/warp, store the boards flat, with a "sticker" positioned perpendicularly to the length of the board. This may not eliminate the twist/warp entirely, but at least the boards will be drying evenly.

The BEST answer for building a stand as Rocketengineer has described, would to use "KILN DRIED" lumber. It is usually available at the local home center close to the cheaper wet stuff. The kiln Dried costs more (usually only a few cents more per board) but is dried in a Kiln and is subsequently more stable to begin with.. The moisture has been lessened prior to you taking it home and vastly less prone to twist or warp.

Hope this helps:beer:

 

[ndrwater]

I would also add, always "sight" the board before purchase. This is to sight the board along the length from one end. If a board isn't relatively straight at the store, I GUARANTEE it won't be straighter when you get it home.
This also applies to kiln dried material.
Start with the straightest pieces you can find to begin with, and the likelihood of a successful stand build is greatly increased.

 

[Matthias7]

Just upgraded my tank to a 180 and will be setting it up in the next few months. I built a stand to accommodate a 48in tank (75 gallon) or a 72in tank (180 gallon). 2x6 top frame (skinned with 3/4 in birch ply on top). The longest stretch between legs is 48 inches. Will that distance be acceptable for the larger tank?

 

[ndrwater]

Just upgraded my tank to a 180 and will be setting it up in the next few months. I built a stand to accommodate a 48in tank (75 gallon) or a 72in tank (180 gallon). 2x6 top frame (skinned with 3/4 in birch ply on top). The longest stretch between legs is 48 inches. Will that distance be acceptable for the larger tank?

Matthais-
Am I correct that you will be modifying the 4' stand to become a 6' stand? If so, the 48" span is probably fine based on the fact that the top rails of the stand are 2x6's. The 3/4" ply top will help too. I would however replace the short 2x6's with a longer ones to span the entire 72"
I wouldn't put a 6' tank on a 4' stand regardless. Just asking for trouble. and 180 gallons on the floor is a LOT of water....