DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[ndrwater]

jayu-

I think you will be fine removing the little piece where the wood glue is sitting. I would normally shy away from a complete void in either the top or bottom frame, but you have two things going for you. The little box you have installed in the area where the frame piece is to be removed, and the fact you have built the stand like a brick s#1thouse. That will be one STRONG stand.:beer:

 

[ndrwater]

Is this true if only the front 2x4 frame is laid "flat"? While the other 3 would still be on the edge.
You still have a complete bottom, and therefore should be fine. Remember, you are distributing the weight with the bottom frame. All of the bottom 2x4's could be on the "flat" if you like.

It will be sitting on carpeted concrete in the basement. I'm debating whether to remove the carpeting in that area so it will sit directly on the concrete.

If you have the opportunity to remove the carpet, I would. In my cabinet business, I always take the opportunity when presented to set my cabinetry directly on the floor. I then recommend to the homeowner to have the carpet "re-tacked" to give a nice clean look
Kinda sorta makes a little bit more sense now. I still have trouble understanding weight distribution.


I think I've decided to change the design & add 2" in height. I'd still prefer to lay ONLY the front 2x4 "flat" though to make getting the sump in/out easier.

Good plan


I was wondering if uneven weight distribution could cause problems with the tank. I use a 6' level & first make sure the stand is level.

Absolutely can uneven weight distribution cause problems with the tank.


Well it was going to have 3 sides of 2x4 on edge plus the plywood under that. I thought the weight would transfer down the legs & out the 3 sides of 2x4 & also to the plywood to spread it out even more .. OH wait .. So rather than the plywood distributing weight down to the floor it would just spread out across the plywood & not transfer to floor because the further you get from the legs the less downward force is applied? Or do I still not understand?

You more or less have the correct idea. Just remember, the whole idea of having 2x4's on the bottom is to have a rigid enough structure to distribute the weight. In an earlier post I mentioned that 1/2" plywood would somewhat help, but the actual force of the weight would transfer THROUGH the plywood. the 2x4's are so much stronger, they transfer weight better.

So if I have 4 bottom rails will the plywood under the frame be ok or still mess with weight distribution? Especially with the addition of front/back center supports.

I think the plywood UNDER the 2x4's is basically a waste of time. In my stand, I put a bottom 3/4" thick plywood shelf ON TOP of my bottom frame.
If however you are still looking for a solid surface to support your sump etc, Then the plywood serves a purpose. Not a structural one however.

I was worried about not having a complete bottom frame. I haven't seen one yet that didn't one, other than those that put the 2x4 "frame" up off the bottom a couple inches, which then is not really a frame. To me only serves to stabilize the stand while all the weight is going down through the legs & to the floor .. not really distributing it.

If you were to have an open section, which I don't really suggest, make sure to have a bottom frame running under the legs, supports. This will help distribute the weight.

I'll have 2x4 on edge for sides & back bottom rail but the front 2x4 will be laid "flat". Will this be ok with just one 2x4 "flat" while the other 3 aren't?

See above.....

I'll have 2-2x4's in the center. One in between the top & bottom rails the 2nd will be screwed to the center 2x4 running front to back & top/bottom rails. It will be similar to the corner legs in other words.
Same setup in the back.

Will I still need plywood on the back if I have one on bottom & 2 sides? Can I just use a diagonal cross brace instead on the back? It serves as my sofa end table. LOL

The plywood in the back could be replaced with a diagonal 2x4. the plywood on the ends aren't 100% necessary since you have followed Rocket's basic design. His design is a good one and strong enough for our purposes.
My suggestion is to still use the plywood on all sides for a more "finished" look. I am using Rocket's basic design as a skeleton for the actual cabinetry that will eventually surround the stand. That way, I have still made a nice piece of furniture without the additional costs and structural concerns of a traditional piece of furniture. I believe that at the beginning of this thread there are pictures of somebody doing exactly what I have in mind

Sorry for being so difficult, asking so many questions & making such a long post. It was easier to read, understand & answer by quoting both posts. I really do appreciate your help.[/QUOTE]

I have a saying in my shop that I express to all my employees. "There are no dumb questions, only dumb people. Dumb people don't ask questions" The jist of this is, if you don't know, you don't know. There is no harm in not knowing. I learn things everyday, sometimes from where I would least expect the answer. I honestly think that this forum is a wealth of information, I hope I was able to help you and anyone else who bothers to take the time to read it.

 

[ndrwater]

I'm in the throws of building up my stand for my glass 180. Came up with a few questions, and hopefully someone can help me out. Here's my part list :

Notes:
- Tank Dimensions : 72.5" x 25.5" x 25.7"
- Sump's going into the basement
- Planning on skinning it with sides that can be mounted with magnets and removed easily... not sure how to do this yet though...

Wood:
- (2) Red - 2x8 - 72.5"
- (5) Yellow - 2x8 - 22.5"
- (4) Green - N/A (Pocket Screws)
- (12) Purple - 2x4 - 30"
- (2) Orange - 2x4 - 72.5"
- (5) Blue - 2x4 - 22.5"

I intend to add 5 cross beams (yes, I believe I don't *need* them with the 2x8's, but for the like 10 bucks, I think it'll be a-ok )

Questions:
1) I'm planning on using Pocket Screws (2 1/2") and a Kreg Pocket Jig. Anyone have any concerns about this over using screw strips ?

I like pocket screws. They make for an incredibly strong joint. Just make sure to use the correct length pocket screw and lots of glue

2) Originally, I purchased white fir to be used for this, but I'm finding it hard to keep from splitting, and/or cracking. I'm thinking about changing it out for Douglas Fir, anyone used douglas fir?

Most 2x4's are Doug Fir. As for splitting etc, if you pre-drill before driving the screws you should eliminate this problem

3) I'm not sure if I should put something over the top to rest the tank on, my gut says yes, but I'm not sure if it's a good, or a bad thing. Anyone have any structural reason to do so?

If the tank is Acrylic, yes you definitely need a solid top. If you are using a glass tank, there really isn't much reason for a solid top

 

[ndrwater]

Neogenix-

I wanted to make sure I clarified about the solid top on the stand. If the tank is rimless glass, or Acrylic you need a solid top. If the tank has a rim, the weight is supported by the rim, therefore eliminating the need for a solid top.
Wanted to make sure I made that distinction

 

[jayu]

jayu-

I think you will be fine removing the little piece where the wood glue is sitting. I would normally shy away from a complete void in either the top or bottom frame, but you have two things going for you. The little box you have installed in the area where the frame piece is to be removed, and the fact you have built the stand like a brick s#1thouse. That will be one STRONG stand.:beer:

Okay cool. Thanks man! Im gonna be using 3/4 plywood to support the back and top too.

 

[NativeKeeper]

@ndrwater -- Thanks so much for all your help. You've been very helpful & patient with all my questions.

This site & thread have been a great resource!

 

[DivingTheWorld]

So it took me about 6 months working weekends as I had time, but I thought I'd share a couple pics of the stand I built with A LOT of help from this thread.

The frame used Rocket Engineer's design and it is skinned in 3/4" Alder and stained in Red Mahogany. Finish is Satin. The interior was caulked and painted with several coats of white "boat" paint.

You can look up my build thread for more detailed info. But I just want to say, I could not have done it without this thread. Thanks!

 

[ndrwater]

Diving-

For what it's worth, I definitely approve. Kind of similar to what I am working on now. I build cabinetry for a living and the Alder/Mahogany stain is one of my favorites. Nice job:beer:

 

[dangros]

very nice. I'm trying to skin mine in red oak to match the floors. How did you do the trim and the corners?

 

[DivingTheWorld]

very nice. I'm trying to skin mine in red oak to match the floors. How did you do the trim and the corners?

For the trim I used solid Alder trim from a local molding company. All the edges/corners were sanded. We have two little ones so I had to make sure there were no sharp edges or corners.

There's a few pics of the trim work here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2345585&page=3

 

[DivingTheWorld]

Diving-

For what it's worth, I definitely approve. Kind of similar to what I am working on now. I build cabinetry for a living and the Alder/Mahogany stain is one of my favorites. Nice job:beer:

Thanks! It's my first ever attempt at furniture.

 

[devildog12210]

I thought I would share my stand build that I made using the info from this thread. Pine frame with cedar skin. No stain was used, just a simple bees wax that was massaged into the wood.

 

[ndrwater]

Nice job Devil!!

 

[DivingTheWorld]

+1, looks great!

 

[rs1831]

I thought I would share my stand build that I made using the info from this thread. Pine frame with cedar skin. No stain was used, just a simple bees wax that was massaged into the wood.

Amazing build! Are you nervous at all not having any cross-braces other than on the ends? Do you have pictures with the doors open to see the inside?

Once again, just beautiful!

 

[devildog12210]

Amazing build! Are you nervous at all not having any cross-braces other than on the ends? Do you have pictures with the doors open to see the inside?

Once again, just beautiful!

Thats a 2x10 on the top. It should be more than enough to hold the tank. I was a bit hesitant myself but after looking at Rockets calculations I figured he knew better than I did.

Here is the inside shot with the doors opened as requested. The sump went in through the back. I went with the pocket hinges so they wouldn't be seen when closed. I had the jig for it so why not. I went with the faux drawers to cover the huge gap from the doors to the trim because of the 2x10. It just gave it a more "finished" look.

 

[jayu]

Do u need a router to make doors?

 

[devildog12210]

And this was immediately after applying the wax. As you can tell from the final pictures it darkened up quite nicely. It also picked up the red tint that is natural to the cedar.

 

[devildog12210]

Do u need a router to make doors?

Yes I did. It went a lot easier than I expected. Cedar splinters very easily. I had originally planned on red oak but my wife wanted the cedar. I had to do several passes while getting it down but I didn't have any pieces splinter on me. I used little rubber grommets in between the center panel and the door frame to allow the wood to expand and contact without cracking or the panel being loose.

ETA I used a table router.

 

[RocketEngineer]

Do u need a router to make doors?

Depending on how you wanted them to look, the answer is no.

I made the panels for my hood using a friend's table saw, biscuits, and pocket screws. No reason doors couldn't be made the same way.