DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Nortamzzo]

I recommend against this as doing so could allow the bottom of the legs to twist out from under the tank over time. If you need a larger opening, you could just make the stand taller.

Ok, so that leads to another idea. In the original post, you said the uprights on the narrow side are optional. If I remove one or both of them, would the stand still be stable enough for a 180? I would like to have a sump extending through the edges 12", with the skimmer and socks in that area.

Of course I will frame in the area where the sump is extending, and also would like bookshelves on top of that area.

But with the 2x4 uprights on the narrow side, I only have 15" of clearance. I would need 18½" of clearance minimum, which I could achieve by removing one of the narrow uprights. But this way doesn't allow me to put walls inside this area, which is why I want to remove both narrow uprights.

 

[Nortamzzo]

Here is a design I was working on, with the narrow uprights removed. Shows how I would like the sump extending through the side.

 

[RocketEngineer]

If I were to do that, I would use pocket screws and extend the top frame to account for that extra length.

 

[bengeeee]

A 2X10 is definitely enough. You could probably get away with a 2X8 so you should be fine.

Copy that thanks so much!

 

[Nortamzzo]

If I were to do that, I would use pocket screws and extend the top frame to account for that extra length.

Ok. Do you think there is any way I can design this stand with at minimum a 19" opening on the narrow side, and have the tops of the side extensions be at a lower height than the bottom of the tank?

 

[james ludlow]

Do these plans look okay?

2x4 thoughout, except 2x2 spacers on legs. I've omitted the side 2x4 on the legs, so essentially the tank is sitting through 6 2x4s

Tank Plans 1

Tank plans 2

Tank plans3

 

[greene.phillip]

I wonder if in these three designs, all holding an identical tank, there is any appreciable difference (at any reasonable scale) in strength/integrity.

The details are small and hopefully the illustrations make it clear. But left to right:

1) The front face 2x4's are moved out from under the tank.
(Theres actually another variation here that I didn't want to go back and do whereby the 2x4s would be 1.5" closer to the tank and the other set of 2x4s moved from the the front edge further under the tank as well if that makes sense basically the same change as #2 to #3 below.)

2) The top and side "beams" are stacked with the joints opposite the joints of the legs.

3) The top and side "beams" are aligned with the joints of the legs.

It seems like it would be safe to have all 4 legs under the tank, but it would also seem the beam is getting the same support and there is direct support under all corners of the tank. It also seems that not lining up the joints would be more secure.

I'm just curious how much difference this makes at any particular size/weight.

To be clear this is not about board size vs opening span etc and not about any one specific size. If there is a difference I'd imagine it becomes more important the bigger you go. Just looking for info on the basic principles at play there and the smaller details of the design.

 

[james ludlow]

My plans don't seem to show, so.....

http://flic.kr/p/owGgf7
http://flic.kr/p/ofpKBm
http://flic.kr/p/ofpKKY

 

[RocketEngineer]

In terms of load carrying vertically, they are all the same.

For a side load, the first two are best due to the overlapping boards where as the third one is the weakest due to the joints aligning.

If you went with any of these three, removing half of the legs would still provide enough vertical support to carry the weight of the typical tank especially if the remaining leg was partially or fully under the long boards.

 

[iced98lx]

Just wanted to say thanks and say that while this stand is generally overkill for the vertical load required, the ease of construction makes it approachable for the every day DIY guy like me.

My results in six foot length:

 

[griebs18]

This thread will definitely come in handy for my 80 gallon build.

 

[djam]

Hi,

Looking to do a DYI stand for my new tank and sumps.

Display tank 240g 96x24x24
Sumps (x2) are 36x24x24

The sumps are the flaw, I didn't think it over and they are too tall. So in order to have a workspace under the tank to reach the fuge and sump I would like to build a 38 or 40" tall stand.

Given the above I would like to take your design and make the following two changes.
1. Add a center brace at the mid point 48" and
2. replace the 2x8 red and yellow pieces with 4x4", giving me about 4" inches of work space.

Tank has a frame, btw.

Overflows is a bean animal style out the left side (peninsula style)

Will the addition of the center post and 4x4 provide compensate for not using an 2x8.

Option B: Create 2 vertical braces at 32 and 64" (from one side)

I tried to find the answer in the posts, but I didn't see it.

A close post:
Originally Posted by lnnguyen714 View Post
Hi Rocket,
Do you think that I can get away with 2x6 for the take size 84x24x24?

With legs only in the corners, a 2X6 deflects about 5/16" (0.314" for a 77" span). A 2X8 gets you down to 0.13" which is slightly over my 1/8" recommendation. Only at a 2X10 do you get into what I consider safe.

However, a single center leg under the long boards lets you use a 2X4 top frame because the span would only be 36.75" on either side of the center leg.

Lots of options.


Thanks for you time.

 

[pdiehm]

I am planning to make a stand 60x18x23 for a 110 gallon tank.

top and bottom frame will be 2x6, with the legs and vertical supports being 2x4.

On the front view, there's a 40" opening, which will be a removable panel held on by cabinet clips or magnets for sump access. Vertical supports will run to the top flush, attached by 2 wood screws on each end. And now that I'm typing it up, I'm not entirely sure how to design/attach the legs! Edit: After reading through the thread, I need to attach a 2x4 inside the legs for support.

Now the concern is...this stand as designed is going to weigh a ton. Starting to wonder if I need 3 cross supports on the top and bottom, and if I need 4 vertical supports on the back, and 2 on the front.

First picture is some what of how I am trying to design this. not identical but somewhat.

Next one is the view of the top and bottom frame.

Last one is a sketch of the front view. It appears the legs are where I'm running into difficulty.

Main goal: Access to a 40B or 55G sump, and support of a 110 gallon aquarium without crashing down and causing an insane flood. That would be bad.

This is why I bring you this...you folks are a lot smarter, and more handy than I am. Let's build this together!

 

[pdiehm]

You know what...I need to re-design this.

Few things as to why:

1) first the design I did was complete overkill. Using 2x6's, I need maximum a single cross brace

2) after reading the first 65 pages, I realized, that I don't need 4 vertical supports. I could do 1 if I felt the need, but probably don't need more than 1, and if I do...2 tops.

3) Bottom frame has to have 2 cross braces because of the sump that will be sitting there. Just for added security.

4) I didn't realize that the 2x4 should be holding the weight of both 2x6. In my drawing, the 2x4 is only holding the weight of the width 2x6.

5) I'm not a structural engineer and I should stick to banking

 

[OpenRoad]

You know what...I need to re-design this.

Few things as to why:

1) first the design I did was complete overkill. Using 2x6's, I need maximum a single cross brace

2) after reading the first 65 pages, I realized, that I don't need 4 vertical supports. I could do 1 if I felt the need, but probably don't need more than 1, and if I do...2 tops.

3) Bottom frame has to have 2 cross braces because of the sump that will be sitting there. Just for added security.

4) I didn't realize that the 2x4 should be holding the weight of both 2x6. In my drawing, the 2x4 is only holding the weight of the width 2x6.

5) I'm not a structural engineer and I should stick to banking

Nice.

I am planning to spin up something very similar this weekend. I have a 135 plexi tank, 72 inches, but want to make it such that I can access any panel (avoid swing open doors in lieu of magnet panels).

 

[OpenRoad]

Just wanted to say thanks and say that while this stand is generally overkill for the vertical load required, the ease of construction makes it approachable for the every day DIY guy like me.

My results in six foot length:

Looks like the access/clearance above the refugium is going to be pretty minimal.... lamps?

 

[RocketEngineer]

djam, DON'T USE 4X4s. They are some of the worse lumber you could purchase because they tend to retain moisture in the center which causes them to warp/split/twist as they continue to dry after you have built with them. Placing a center leg at exactly 48" means the red and yellow boards can be 2X6. For a 40" tall stand that gives you 7" above the sump which isn't a lot of space but may be enough. If you could, I would send one of the two sump tanks back or sell it and replace with a shorter one. The tall one would become my refugium and the short one would be my sump with the skimmer and return pump. Just my opinion.

pdiehm, All you need is the legs in the corners and a 2X6 top frame and you can have full access across the entire 53" opening. I recommend against a 55g sump, they are typically tall which would make them hard to work in.

 

[pdiehm]

pdiehm, All you need is the legs in the corners and a 2X6 top frame and you can have full access across the entire 53" opening. I recommend against a 55g sump, they are typically tall which would make them hard to work in.

Thanks. Probably will do the 40G Breeder. If that's the case, I may partition off that area, and put 2 doors on the front, one for supplies, the other for the sump area.

Yes/No? Say make the sump area 40" with a removeable panel or door (probably removeable panel), and a 13" closet (for lack of a better term).

 

[RocketEngineer]

I think it would look better if you did two equally sized panels. It would look "off" otherwise. You just have to know which side what you are after is on and remove that side or remove both and have full access.

 

[pdiehm]

The only thing I worry about making 2 equal side doors is getting the 40G into the opening.

Just priced the wood at Home Depot and Lowes. Not sure whether one is better than the other, but the prices are virtually the same. 154" of 2x6
& 523" of 2x4

At Lowes: #2 Kiln dried whitewood s4s dimensional lumber $29.83 for all wood (not including plywood sheets).

At Home Depot: Standard & Better Kiln Dried treated spruce-pine-fir lumber. $30.82


Aside from them 2, is there any particular types of 2x4 or 2x6 I should be looking at?