DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
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phenom5
Member
Posted this in a separate thread, but I figure I would put in here as well.
I am buildin my stand for my new tank. I think I am good framing it out with 2x4s, and I am probably overbuilding it.
I am building the tank into a nook in the greatroom, and I was planning on framing it out, then only skinning the front and top with 1/2" Birch or Maple.
Should I be concerned with the stand twisting or flexing? Do I need to skin the sides?
Here's what I am looking at doing:
I am buildin my stand for my new tank. I think I am good framing it out with 2x4s, and I am probably overbuilding it.
I am building the tank into a nook in the greatroom, and I was planning on framing it out, then only skinning the front and top with 1/2" Birch or Maple.
Should I be concerned with the stand twisting or flexing? Do I need to skin the sides?
Here's what I am looking at doing:
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
The two panels touch in the middle, there isn't a leg or anything in the way so getting the sump in should be a snap.
It depends on the door design. The panels for my hood were constructed with biscuits holding a 1/2" plywood panel into the oak surround which was pocket screwed together. Looks like a much fancier construction than it really is.
With it tied into the walls it shouldn't move at all. Just make sure it is totally level before you connect it to the nook walls.
I was looking at this http://www.amanatool.com/shaper/missionstyle-shapercutters.html
phenom5
Member
What if it's not connected to the walls? What if there was a 1/4" or so gap all the way around?
OpenRoad
New member
I think it will look fine having one larger, one smaller entry area. I'm thinking of exactly the same. Are you going for magnet doors or hinged?
Hey rocket,
I had a question. If building a stand to your specs for a 125 standard. Using 2x6 for the top rail would there be an issue with going 41 inches tall? That would put the uprights cut to 31 inches.
<a href="http://s591.photobucket.com/user/slm222/media/Aquarium/BC4B6942-A97F-4D2F-A295-860320E09DAD.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss351/slm222/Aquarium/BC4B6942-A97F-4D2F-A295-860320E09DAD.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo BC4B6942-A97F-4D2F-A295-860320E09DAD.jpg"/></a>
I had a question. If building a stand to your specs for a 125 standard. Using 2x6 for the top rail would there be an issue with going 41 inches tall? That would put the uprights cut to 31 inches.
<a href="http://s591.photobucket.com/user/slm222/media/Aquarium/BC4B6942-A97F-4D2F-A295-860320E09DAD.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss351/slm222/Aquarium/BC4B6942-A97F-4D2F-A295-860320E09DAD.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo BC4B6942-A97F-4D2F-A295-860320E09DAD.jpg"/></a>
greene.phillip
New member
Think I've nearly settled on the structural part of a stand for my 110g. Let me know if you think there's any problems with the design or places I could save weight.
There will also be additional facing in the form of 1/2" boards most likely. Back and sump area will be covered in 1/4" plywood. The front area is just to give a little more room in sump area and work with my trim/skin ideas. Open to constructive criticism all day.
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floydie83
New member
So I ran a little experiment today. Being a structural engineer, I wanted to show that most stands that people building are way more than the capacity they need (not that this is a bad thing!). I am building a 60 gal. cube and conservatively assumed the weight of the tank and materials to be 650 lbs. I have a bunch of steel angle for some projects we have going on here in the lab. So I loaded the stand on up...to 1300 lbs. A factor of safety of 2 should be more than plenty. Each angle pictured weighs 25 lbs. Nothing flexed, nothing moved, nothing creaked...
The stand itself is made from 3/4 in. plywood (there is no 2x4 frame). The top bears on the sides in the same sense as RocketEngineers design.
There's a lot of ways to safely build a stand. This is just one. Most stands are way over designed in terms of compressive strength, and in my opinion a little scary i terms of lateral stiffness. Definitely better safe than sorry is the motto all should take.
The stand itself is made from 3/4 in. plywood (there is no 2x4 frame). The top bears on the sides in the same sense as RocketEngineers design.
There's a lot of ways to safely build a stand. This is just one. Most stands are way over designed in terms of compressive strength, and in my opinion a little scary i terms of lateral stiffness. Definitely better safe than sorry is the motto all should take.
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Anyone? I Want to set up the tank tonight but waiting for someones blessing before moving forward.
greene.phillip
New member
Waiting for expert advice, as well, myself before building.
That being said the height shouldn't change much of anything support-wise but will make it more prone to tipping as your weight is farther above center of gravity. That being said, I doubt that should be too much of an issue unless someone tries to push it over lol.
Possibly also more prone to racking with the longer uprights, but I don't really know enough to even form an opinion there. I suppose you could cover the back with plywood to help there or perhaps a few angled braces.
Looks like you've already built it, too late now right?
OpenRoad
New member
Center of gravity going high is certainly an issue. Think earthquakes if you are in California. I'm going 39 inches high to make room below for a very tall high capacity skimmer and other goodies. I will also use 3 metal spun wire harnesses anchored to the wall, in the case of that quake since I live in a quake zone.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
floydie83, there are definitely more than one way to build a sturdy stand, it depends more on the builder and available tools than anything else. That image just goes to show how strong stands really are.
Slm222, That should work fine.
greene.phillip, You don't need the extra supports in the back. I prefer to extend the bottom back instead of forward so I have a place to run wires but to each their own.
Slm222, That should work fine.
greene.phillip, You don't need the extra supports in the back. I prefer to extend the bottom back instead of forward so I have a place to run wires but to each their own.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Just remember that metal corrodes around SW.....I don't think they are needed.
Check that the TRIM is straight. I've seen more than one tank where the plastic was off. I work with 1/8" as a rule of thumb, two business cards isn't a lot but check the plastic first.
Rocket - First, thank you for all the help you've provided in this thread! I've been reading for weeks about load bearing, axial strength etc. and my mind is going to explode. I've read through this thread and everyone seems to use 2x4 and have FAR more than enough support for their tanks. My stand is most similar to this stand but with extra front supports and a full plywood on edge back: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14212432&postcount=969
I have a custom stand that I purchased used but never actually used. The stand was built by a cabinet maker who builds stands for aquariums, so I must assume he calculated for the load. This stand is for a 300g tank. So 3000lbs load.
Everything I've read says that the layperson (me) will believe their eyes over the math and that stands can hold a remarkable weight.
From what I've read in this thread, I think my stand will support the weight.
Everything in my stand is 3/4". The back is plywood on edge. The corners are 5" solid wood on each side of corner (except the back due to the plywood). The front braces are 3" of load bearing with an additional tacking strip 3"x.75".
The top frame is 6"x.75" on the three sides and the plywood on the back side. There are also two 6" pieces, spaced 2" apart, that join the plywood to the middle front supports, so four total pieces. 2 for each front support.
Disregard the hood that is sitting on top of the stand.
What do you think? TIA!
I have a custom stand that I purchased used but never actually used. The stand was built by a cabinet maker who builds stands for aquariums, so I must assume he calculated for the load. This stand is for a 300g tank. So 3000lbs load.
Everything I've read says that the layperson (me) will believe their eyes over the math and that stands can hold a remarkable weight.
From what I've read in this thread, I think my stand will support the weight.
Everything in my stand is 3/4". The back is plywood on edge. The corners are 5" solid wood on each side of corner (except the back due to the plywood). The front braces are 3" of load bearing with an additional tacking strip 3"x.75".
The top frame is 6"x.75" on the three sides and the plywood on the back side. There are also two 6" pieces, spaced 2" apart, that join the plywood to the middle front supports, so four total pieces. 2 for each front support.
Disregard the hood that is sitting on top of the stand.
What do you think? TIA!
OpenRoad
New member
I'm using metal plates as well. I do not trust the lateral movement focal point on the pocket screws only. Just paint over the metal after your done and no worries about corrosion. (Or paint both sides of the metal before mounting)
One thing to note when initially securing the legs. Do not over tighten the screws - leave a little slack so when you mount the top or bottom (depending on where you initially attach the legs) you will have a bit of slack in case you are 1/4 inch off and do not want to force it into position. Once everything is attached, then tighten each screw top and bottom.
Use a level often as your goal is a completely level and true top surface.
One thing to note when initially securing the legs. Do not over tighten the screws - leave a little slack so when you mount the top or bottom (depending on where you initially attach the legs) you will have a bit of slack in case you are 1/4 inch off and do not want to force it into position. Once everything is attached, then tighten each screw top and bottom.
Use a level often as your goal is a completely level and true top surface.
