SpankythePyro
New member
sanding, tried, bad idea as it will never get flat, plane yes but i do not have one
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
sanding, tried, bad idea as it will never get flat, plane yes but i do not have one
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Given the sizes I see, that should be plenty strong enough for an 80G.
woodnaquanut
Active member
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woodnaquanut
Active member
There are two issues with stands. They need to be co-planer (aka, flat) and level.
Co-planer means all the points on a surface are in the same plane. You need a good straight edge to determine this. Even better are winding sticks. You can google winding sticks to see the process.
Level means the plane is perpendicular to the center of the earth. Here is where you use the bubble! :thumbsup:
booyaa138
Member
I've got a question on my upcoming stand build. My tank footprint is 60x18. I'm going to be building my stand bigger at 70x23. I know that I need cross braces on the top for where the tank sits but my question is: Can I use a 2x6 for the length of the frame and 2x4's for the legs with no center brace?(using plans from Rocketengineer) I'm going to put a center brace in the rear.
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After a reading through this thread I finally decided to take a crack at making my own stand. Before I post, I'd like to thank all the contributors to this thread that helped me make some key decisions.
The tank is a DSA 175g (72L x 27W x 21H) with a center overflow. I'm redecorating my living room to lighten it up, so I wanted to choose light colors in a modern scheme.
For the top of the frame I used 2x8's, for the bottom I used 2x4's and the uprights I used 2x6's. I used the Kreg Jig for the supports to avoid the screw strips. The front center support is the only support I will not glue so I can remove it when I get the sump in. All wood was pushed through the jointer/planer, and through the tablesaw to get the wood square. Here's the plan:
Structure Sketch
Finished Sketch
With the plan in mind, off to the box store to sift through wood and start squaring the wood, and afterwoods I made the cuts.
With the cuts made, I moved the project to the kitchen where I had the best level surface to join the top and bottom frames. After that was done, I moved it back to the garage to finish.
Then I started to frame the workpiece with poplar and added the the back.
Before adding the doors and side trim panels, I stopped to prime everything (4 coats on the inside). If I had to do it over again, I would have just added the side panels to the workpiece and primed them there.
After a few days of letting the primer sit, I started to apply paint to the project and assemble the doors. This was my first time to do euro hinges and the little template kit they sell at box store made it easy to do. I added the softclose module, but honestly, I don't think it helps that much on the larger doors. Tonight I added the magnetic door plates and I'm officially done with the build. Here are the pics. Sorry for the low quality cell phone pics.
Now onto the next project of the QT and Frag Tank stand build.
The tank is a DSA 175g (72L x 27W x 21H) with a center overflow. I'm redecorating my living room to lighten it up, so I wanted to choose light colors in a modern scheme.
For the top of the frame I used 2x8's, for the bottom I used 2x4's and the uprights I used 2x6's. I used the Kreg Jig for the supports to avoid the screw strips. The front center support is the only support I will not glue so I can remove it when I get the sump in. All wood was pushed through the jointer/planer, and through the tablesaw to get the wood square. Here's the plan:
Structure Sketch
Finished Sketch
With the plan in mind, off to the box store to sift through wood and start squaring the wood, and afterwoods I made the cuts.
With the cuts made, I moved the project to the kitchen where I had the best level surface to join the top and bottom frames. After that was done, I moved it back to the garage to finish.
Then I started to frame the workpiece with poplar and added the the back.
Before adding the doors and side trim panels, I stopped to prime everything (4 coats on the inside). If I had to do it over again, I would have just added the side panels to the workpiece and primed them there.
After a few days of letting the primer sit, I started to apply paint to the project and assemble the doors. This was my first time to do euro hinges and the little template kit they sell at box store made it easy to do. I added the softclose module, but honestly, I don't think it helps that much on the larger doors. Tonight I added the magnetic door plates and I'm officially done with the build. Here are the pics. Sorry for the low quality cell phone pics.
Now onto the next project of the QT and Frag Tank stand build.
bathomassr
New member
^^ Very nice work! As a fellow woodworker, I'll give it 2 thumbs up.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Nice stand. I just have one critique in that you didn't need 2X6s for the legs as a 2X4 would have been more than strong enough.
Also, you may want to consider either leaving the vents off or adding fans. I can see that enclosed space having moisture issues without some additional ventilation.
Keep us posted on the other stand.
Also, you may want to consider either leaving the vents off or adding fans. I can see that enclosed space having moisture issues without some additional ventilation.
Keep us posted on the other stand.
Thanks bathomassr!
Thanks Rocket! I wouldn't have launched this project without your contribution to the community.
Regarding the 2x6's, it was easier for me to cut them square since I didn't really end up having to worry too much about shaving too much off during the squaring process.
There's still a few things that I'm probably going to do with the stand. The left side panel is not a door, I just made a door on the right side. I wasn't sure how much moisture I'll encounter, but if it does need venting I can cut the left panel and install a fan. I also will plant a panel inside the stand on the right side to host the wiring.. or I just might build a small box to sit next to it to host the wiring. I'm still undecided on that until I get it in the house and evaluate.
booyaa138
Member
Can I get some advise from you guys on my stand idea?
I'm I going about it the right way? Will my stand idea work? Looking to make bigger to fit more stuff under the stand. Also I have a 40g breeder for a sump.
I'm looking to start the build this weekend.
dadummy
Active member
great thread, all the hard work has inspired me to build a stand
I have a few questions before I start.
Tank is 150G, 72 X 18, I just picked up the Kreg pocket hole jig along with the blue Kreg screws and am planning on using pocket joints.
The upper ends and rails will be 2 X 6 with 2x4 cross members.
The uprights will be 2 X4, do they need to be 2X6 as well?
The bottom rails will be 2x4.
With the 2X6 upper rails I won't need a center brace?
I will add a couple braces on the back of the stand. I may add a couple to the front leaving a big enough opening in the middle to get the sump in and out. Haven't got that far which leads me to the next question.
Do I need to skin the frame?
Or at least not skin the front. I am trying to stay away from plywood, incase I ever had to refinish the stand. Not sure where I am going but was thinking maybe cedar or tongue and groove pine.
Sorry for all the questions. This is my last shot at redeeming myself with wood working skills,which are very minimal. After reading through this thread I feel I can do it
thanks for your time and help
I have a few questions before I start.
Tank is 150G, 72 X 18, I just picked up the Kreg pocket hole jig along with the blue Kreg screws and am planning on using pocket joints.
The upper ends and rails will be 2 X 6 with 2x4 cross members.
The uprights will be 2 X4, do they need to be 2X6 as well?
The bottom rails will be 2x4.
With the 2X6 upper rails I won't need a center brace?
I will add a couple braces on the back of the stand. I may add a couple to the front leaving a big enough opening in the middle to get the sump in and out. Haven't got that far which leads me to the next question.
Do I need to skin the frame?
Or at least not skin the front. I am trying to stay away from plywood, incase I ever had to refinish the stand. Not sure where I am going but was thinking maybe cedar or tongue and groove pine.
Sorry for all the questions. This is my last shot at redeeming myself with wood working skills,which are very minimal. After reading through this thread I feel I can do it
thanks for your time and help
Chrisq0904
New member
Here is how my stand turned out.
foxvalleypcgeek
New member
I used these plans to build several stands over the years, the biggest one being a 210. I used 2x8s on the top and it worked out perfect.
I am now getting a 500 gallon (glass) in about 10 weeks when the construction of it is complete. It is 96Lx48Wx25H. This is on a whole different level then the weight of the 210 and wondering what I need for support.
I am thinking 2X6s for legs and having the 4 corners as usual, but also in the middle on each end (front to back) and also a couple legs supporting the middle as well. And probobly 2x10 across the top.
I am now getting a 500 gallon (glass) in about 10 weeks when the construction of it is complete. It is 96Lx48Wx25H. This is on a whole different level then the weight of the 210 and wondering what I need for support.
I am thinking 2X6s for legs and having the 4 corners as usual, but also in the middle on each end (front to back) and also a couple legs supporting the middle as well. And probobly 2x10 across the top.
pelphrey
New member
I have a freshwater tank but used the "Rocket" design to build my stand. Do have a question as I want to add a 30 gallon sump, 75 gallon display. The front 2x4 on the stand is glued in. Once I get it out will I need to add it back to my stand or can I leave it out? Entire stand is made out of 2x4's then skinned. Thanks in advance!
rabbit3737
New member
do you have any plans you could share for this project?
davidwithababy
New member
=)
=)
It looks like the screw strip boards (the green ones in the diagram) are touching the ground. I think they are supposed to be off the ground. Something about distributing weight. I'm no engineer. But that might be a problem? But it does look strong!!
=)
I am building a stand for the IM Fusion 40 (40 gallons of water).Stand is built completely out of 2x4's, and the dimensions are 25"x20.5"x36". The top of the stand will be 3/4" oak plywood and the rest of the tank will be skinned with 1/2" plywood.
Does anyone see any issues with the way I built it? The only screw up I see is the screw strips run the entire height of the stand. Is this going to be a major issue?
It looks like the screw strip boards (the green ones in the diagram) are touching the ground. I think they are supposed to be off the ground. Something about distributing weight. I'm no engineer. But that might be a problem? But it does look strong!!
Mark_C
New member
An 8 year old thread still going strong. Thanks Rocket, this entire thread is awesome, spent past 2 days reading through it.
Planning on a stand for my new 60g shallow reef. Stand plan is 48" long, 24" deep, 32" height.
Question; If I use 1x4s for the uprights in place of the 2x4s will it be structurally sound enough to hold up?
Thanks,
Mark
Planning on a stand for my new 60g shallow reef. Stand plan is 48" long, 24" deep, 32" height.
Question; If I use 1x4s for the uprights in place of the 2x4s will it be structurally sound enough to hold up?
Thanks,
Mark
