DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Hi all, truly awesome thread. I've referred to it many times and built two stands. One for a 120 and another for a 40 breeeder
So here's my question...
I'm on my third build for a 180 Marineland Deep Dimensions tank. As you you these tanks are predrilled and have the bulkheads in the rear corners. Will the screw strip interfere with bulkheads and the plumbing? Any experience with this type of build would be appreciated
 
Hi all, truly awesome thread. I've referred to it many times and built two stands. One for a 120 and another for a 40 breeeder
So here's my question...
I'm on my third build for a 180 Marineland Deep Dimensions tank. As you you these tanks are predrilled and have the bulkheads in the rear corners. Will the screw strip interfere with bulkheads and the plumbing? Any experience with this type of build would be appreciated

Yes, the screw strip will interfere with the bulkheads. I had to cut the screw strip where the bulkheads were much shorter. When I built my second stand i used pocket screws and eliminated the screw strips.
 
For the unit challenged: The tank is 83.8" X 23.6" X 19.7". To me that would be a great set of dimensions for a reef.

OP: If I were looking at the front of your stand, you would have three openings and four legs. The back looks the same as the front and each end also has two legs. If that is the case, the 2.6X8 lumber you call out is just fine because with that many vertical supports, there is only slightly more than 60cm between legs.

Personally, I would make the stand slightly bigger than the tank. If the boards truly are 8cm wide and not 7.9 or something silly, three spaces 61cm wide plus four legs 8cm wide gives you 215cm which is gives you 1cm on each side. Same for the width, give yourself room for error.

One other thing, you may want the stand to be a little taller but that is a personal preference more than anything. I don't like bending down to look into my tank. Now if this were open top and you were looking down into it, the stand height would be just fine. Its all a matter of what you are aiming for.


Awesome, this encourage me more to build may DIY Aquarium Stands.

Thanks Rocket.
 
I got question, is it possible/ strong enough if purple lumber change with biscuit jointer for big tank? Eg. 213cm x 60cm x 50cm.
 
Here is my finished product! Thanks for all the help!!!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426508377.474557.jpg
 
Hey all, most of my day has been wasted flipping through this thread. Hoping I could get some advice on my own cheapy future stand meant to support a 55+29 gallon aquarium

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After looking through these posts I'm headed towards replacing the top box with 2x8" or at least 2x6" boards. Also, I have a brace in the back, I though it would add stability and prevent racking. I'm not sure anymore, should I also add some diagonal bracing?

I do want to avoid wrapping in plywood, though I know that would really make this thing a fortress. I like the open look, but if it seems best I may end up wrapping in plywood.
 

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Hey all, most of my day has been wasted flipping through this thread. Hoping I could get some advice on my own cheapy future stand meant to support a 55+29 gallon aquarium

hgoWnUK.png

samIGhZ.png

066YuXj.png


After looking through these posts I'm headed towards replacing the top box with 2x8" or at least 2x6" boards. Also, I have a brace in the back, I though it would add stability and prevent racking. I'm not sure anymore, should I also add some diagonal bracing?

I do want to avoid wrapping in plywood, though I know that would really make this thing a fortress. I like the open look, but if it seems best I may end up wrapping in plywood.

After reading more of the thread all day I've come up with an alternative design that of course has been tested many times here on this site.

My only concern with this design is that the middle brace might not be oriented correctly?
mMsrH4X.jpg

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I've changed the orientation on this design and removed the "extra" 2x4's on the outside legs here (are they necessary?)
ymt8c73.png


These designs would all likely work when wrapped up in plywood, however I want to keep it somewhat open. Worst case is I end up with something like this:
hOBNKNg.png


I'm hoping that I might be able to add some simple supports to the corners like this, however i'm unsure if this would be enough.
lMWNFp4.png


The 55 and 29 gallon tanks will be resting atop a 3/4 plywood, so I think it is okay if the frame is not exactly the same dimensions as the tank corners and edges. I planned to make the base larger than i currently need... just in case. But in the meantime I'll probably open up a channel in the back for easy tube access, etc.
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Appreciate any help with the design, or any suggestions on which design above might work with some extra help. Thanks
 
bobBillyRay,

First off, notching the boards is challenging to get exactly the same where as cutting a set of boards to the exact same size can be accomplished with a stop block. I would rather see full boards cut consistent that fewer boards.

If you want to minimize boards, I would use pocket screws. Also, the L shape in the corner is much more stable compared to a single board. The board notched into the back of the stand would only help if the notch perfectly fit onto the horizontal and thats very hard to achieve.

Third, if you want space behind the tank, consider making the sides longer to hide it vs having the back of the tanks supported by screws.

BTW, do you already own the tanks? If not, 55g is a poor size for a reef. Too tall for the width.
 
I agree. That way too much work for such a narrow width tank. A 75 would be much better. Assuming this is for a coral heavy tank. There's insufficient floor space on a 55 to layout the rock.
 
bobBillyRay,

First off, notching the boards is challenging to get exactly the same where as cutting a set of boards to the exact same size can be accomplished with a stop block. I would rather see full boards cut consistent that fewer boards.

If you want to minimize boards, I would use pocket screws. Also, the L shape in the corner is much more stable compared to a single board. The board notched into the back of the stand would only help if the notch perfectly fit onto the horizontal and thats very hard to achieve.

Third, if you want space behind the tank, consider making the sides longer to hide it vs having the back of the tanks supported by screws.

BTW, do you already own the tanks? If not, 55g is a poor size for a reef. Too tall for the width.

Thanks for the advice,

I'm somewhat confident that I could notch them 'perfectly', but given it's not the most tried method (haven't seen it really on this thread) I think I may opt with the safer and more tried method of a 1/2" skin on the back & sides. Do you think it's safe to use a 1/2" plywood for the top?

I see what you mean now about making the sides longer, and not having the tank supported by screws. Others have achieved what I mentioned above by using a ledger board, or another horizontal 2x6" in my case to support the edge of the tank (seems like more work to add the ledger and not desirable in my case).

I did pick up a 55-gallon tank already for $25. I plan on doing freshwater for now, but hehehe... who knows in the future. The nook I plan on putting this furniture in is about 18" deep without jutting out from the wall. Add another 1/2" for the baseboard and it may become a bit unsightly or inconvenient at that point. On top of this, I just realized recently that my joists will be running parallel with my furniture rather than perpendicular :( , it's an older home (1890's), with floors not in greatest condition, I'm a little hesitant to go too heavy on the tank. But you've got me scoping out 75-gallons now.
 
In progress.

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Completed.

stand001.jpg


Doors remove completely.

stand002.jpg


65 display fuge in place.

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Still need to fill nail holes, sand, and finish.

Anybody willing to help with something like this but modified a bit? I think this looks absolutely awesome!!! But at the same time I would love the stand to be a little bigger than the tank, you know maybe having a 6" lip on the side and maybe an 6-8" lip on the front. I love how the OP did this with the doors. I would like to keep the same idea for the middle as well. For what it's wor I have a 90g tank and I will be using a 30g tank (36x12x16). Thanks for the help in advance.
 
I'm sure this question has been asked and answered somewhere in this thread, but it will take me longer to read every response than build the frame! ;)

So, going back to the oringal template diagram. I ordered a custom tank that will not have plastic trim on the bottom so 3/4" plywood and styrofoam are necessary. Since I'm using plywood, is the blue piece in the middle of the top frame necessary? I'm thinking I can just use the 2 yellows and 2 reds on the top with the plywood - I did use 2x6 for the top layer. The tank is 48"L x 28"W.

Thoughts?
 
I did a stand for a 60" long tank from Miracles and the top had double 2x6's every 12", plus 2 sheets of 3/4" Aruco plywood and 1/2" of blue foam insulation board.

So I would say no, if anything, you need more because the top of the stand needs to provide even support for an acrylic tank or a rimless glass tank. IMO.

Stand before plywood/painting

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with tank

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I have a Marineland stand which i laquered it for my 125. I got some quotes to make a custom one but the price is ranging the $1,000.00.

Can anybody recommend me some trims and measurements i can put to the marineland for a makeover???

Thanks in advance...
 
Ok so I am building me a new Stand for my 180g that is coming. Just a question why does the Green - Screw Strip board need to be slightly shorter vs touching the ground and being level at the top of the frame?? I building this whole stand out of 2x6
 
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