DIY Stands Template and Calculator

The green member is a support strip, for screwing all the other pieces into. You don't want that going to the floor or the top of the stand because then you have one more thing that you need to cut to a precise length (so that it doesn't stick out and throw off the contact to the floor/top). Trust me on this, you do not want that one to go full length.

I had my stand made and told them specifically not to make that to length and they did. I had to plane off the top and bottom members a bit to make them perfectly flat and level, and trying to plane off the end of a 2x4 is not fun. I was kinda ticked off because I gave them exact measurements and a CAD layout in 3D and they pretty much just ignored it.
 
The green member is a support strip, for screwing all the other pieces into. You don't want that going to the floor or the top of the stand because then you have one more thing that you need to cut to a precise length (so that it doesn't stick out and throw off the contact to the floor/top). Trust me on this, you do not want that one to go full length.

I had my stand made and told them specifically not to make that to length and they did. I had to plane off the top and bottom members a bit to make them perfectly flat and level, and trying to plane off the end of a 2x4 is not fun. I was kinda ticked off because I gave them exact measurements and a CAD layout in 3D and they pretty much just ignored it.

Thanks Bud! I want to make this thing right and worry free!
 
I did a stand for a 60" long tank from Miracles and the top had double 2x6's every 12", plus 2 sheets of 3/4" Aruco plywood and 1/2" of blue foam insulation board.

So I would say no, if anything, you need more because the top of the stand needs to provide even support for an acrylic tank or a rimless glass tank. IMO.

Stand before plywood/painting

DSC02724.jpg


with tank

DSC03317.jpg

Thanks for the feedback, double 2x6 over every 12" seems like over-kill. I'm not questioning your method, but does anyone have science behind how much support I need (RocketEngineer)? Would one 2x6 in the middle under the 3/4" plywood suffice? I'm not opposed to adding more, but we tend to way overbuild these stands.
 
Aquick question,I am building a stand for a standard 180 72x24,if my top frame is made out of 2x8s then I can get by without a center support.Bottom frame will be 2x4s and corners will be 2x6s. Thanks
 
I was finally able to get the tank and put it on top of the stand. Most of the tank is fully supported and sits on the plywood top. However, there is about 6-8 inches along the front right that don't touch the plywood. Less than that along the right side. Note that there is no water in the tank.

I slid a shim between the tank and the stand until it just started to lift the tank. It gap appears to be 1/16th of an inch - at most.

Is that something that I should be concerned about?
 
I was finally able to get the tank and put it on top of the stand. Most of the tank is fully supported and sits on the plywood top. However, there is about 6-8 inches along the front right that don't touch the plywood. Less than that along the right side. Note that there is no water in the tank.

I slid a shim between the tank and the stand until it just started to lift the tank. It gap appears to be 1/16th of an inch - at most.

Is that something that I should be concerned about?

Any thoughts/comments on the above? Thanks!
 
I did a bunch of searches on gaps between the tank and stand. From what I read, 1/16" gap was not a concern when the gap was in the middle of the tank. Didn't find discussions on here about such a gap in the corner.

Starting to get the impression that the lack of responses means that I need to rebuild the stand. Ugh!
 
I built one for a rimmed tank (std AGA 120 2x2x4) and I was so concerned with shimming at the floor (hump in floor, 1/4" shimming at both ends to get in full contact) I neglected to check the tank-stand contact. After it was full and I had transferred everything into it (emergency tank tear down) I noticed the vertical seams showing bubbles. I checked and I was able to slide a piece of paper under all 4 corners at least 4-6 inches in. Duh. rimmed tanks up to 48" long only really "need" to be supported by 6" from the corners, I had it opposite. Tore down, added plywood, shimmed between plywood-stand, set it up again, no isssues. Most of the bubbles in the vertical seams went away except for one big area in the top of the left front seam. So I have a bar clamp on that corner...for 4 years now.

I would suggest doing everything you can to achieve full contact all around.
 
Thanks, Turbo. FWIW, a lady at Marineland told me that bubbles in the seams aren't caused by a lack of tank support. She said those bubbles happen when the tank is made and that any bubble less than a quarter inch is not an issue.
 
I'm trying to figure out how to fix this issue. The 3/4" plywood on top of the stand is glued and screwed, so I don't see how I will be able to take it off. I've read a bunch more on how to fix this issue and the best alternative seems to be to rip some wood to build up that corner. Then put down a new sheet of plywood on top.






Any thoughts on that path forward? Note that shim is pushed in until it lifts the tank. My main concern is trying to get such a thin cut of wood to build up that corner.
 
I'm trying to figure out how to fix this issue. The 3/4" plywood on top of the stand is glued and screwed, so I don't see how I will be able to take it off.

So one corner of the tank doesn't touch the top, right? Is it just one corner?

Is the problem the top of the stand or the tank?

If it's the top you could do several things depending on where the top is going wrong. Do you have a good straight edge? Lay it on the top to find the error. If it's a high point, you could grind down the high point. A belt sander would be my tool of choice. It will remove an impressive amount of wood quickly.

If it's more like the corner is low and all the rest of the ply is coplanar, I'd use leveling compound. Level up the stand, plug or tape over any place the LC could leak thru and pour a bed of LC.
 
So one corner of the tank doesn't touch the top, right? Is it just one corner?

Is the problem the top of the stand or the tank?

If it's the top you could do several things depending on where the top is going wrong. Do you have a good straight edge? Lay it on the top to find the error. If it's a high point, you could grind down the high point. A belt sander would be my tool of choice. It will remove an impressive amount of wood quickly.

If it's more like the corner is low and all the rest of the ply is coplanar, I'd use leveling compound. Level up the stand, plug or tape over any place the LC could leak thru and pour a bed of LC.

Yes, just one corner of the tank doesn't touch the top of the stand. Just the front right corner is low. As best I can tell, everywhere else is firmly on the stand. My theory is that the stand is low, in that corner, but I am not sure. I guess I assumed that the tank was not the issue since the other three corners are good. Then again, the left rear of the tank has this:



Yes, that's a piece of shim that fits between the plastic trim and the glass. It is just about 3/16" at the "fat" end.

I decided to call in help. I know a guy who does construction and likes to do trim work in particular. He's going to come take a look. I'll have him check everything out and then see if he can help me do the leveling compound.

Many thanks! This has been causing too much stress.
 
I decided to call in help. I know a guy who does construction and likes to do trim work in particular. He's going to come take a look. I'll have him check everything out and then see if he can help me do the leveling compound.

Many thanks! This has been causing too much stress.

That was going to be my next suggestion! Find a ww buddy. So many things woodworkers know how to do but are hard to explain.
 
About to start going to collect supplies for a 40 breeder stand. If I use the original instructions with 2X4 will I be able to fit a 20 l inside? I have limited space and can only have an inch clearance on all sides of the tank
 
I build the stand for a 180 using 2x4's as the base. The 2x4's are not straight and it causes the stand to wobble. How do you overcome this?
 
That was going to be my next suggestion! Find a ww buddy. So many things woodworkers know how to do but are hard to explain.

Thanks for your help! This all worked out. My friend came over with a Makita Multi-Tool with a plunge cutting saw blade. We pulled out the screws and he used the tool to cut out the glue. He pushed in shims, raised up the plywood and it's now very solid. I'm so relieved -- and excited that I can move forward.
 
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