RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Where there is only one board and yes, for a 120g 48" long, 2X4 is plenty.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Where there is only one board and yes, for a 120g 48" long, 2X4 is plenty.
Zacktosterone
Active member
I didn't catch if that was humour or not. So wood glue everywhere? Haha
shred5
Premium Member
What did you use on yours for support since you made yours for 3 different size tanks, It looks like you used 2'x4' is that correct? I know you used supports too...
I am building my new one just like yours incase I upgrade. I have look at tons of designs and your matches our room which has a nautical/cottage theme.. Yuor design actually incorporates everything I wanted to do on my stand. so instead of reinventing the wheel I am doing it very similar to yours.I wanted shaker doors because they are easier to make.
I have made stand before but this is the first time I went all out for a high-end piece of furniture.
The part I am afraid of most is the top since it will be the show piece. Framing the oak plywood..
hobbzz
How do I change this?
Bump
Zacktosterone
Active member
And finally, I'm assuming you know that my tank is made of 3/4" glass right? So it's heavier than a standard 120
beester15
New member
One more question that I haven't seen asked in the pages. The blue colored cross braces on the top frame, can I turn them long ways? So that the 4 inch part is horizontal? Can I do,this with 2x8 frame? The frame that I have now is double 2x8 from and back. I am trying to get as much room inside the stand as possible for my sump.. Thanks again!
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
If you are talking about my 75g/125g setup, I used what is called 5/4X4 clear pine. I wouldn't repeat that design if I were to do it all over again today but the lumber itself was very nice to work with.
When it comes to the top, I actually purchased mine from a lumber mill. It was worth the extra expense to have an expert make the miters line up perfectly.
hobbzz, for a tank that long you will need supports in the center of the span. Without them, you will get so much deflection that you are likely to see issues. Also, the 48" width is probably best supported by a third rail depending on the tank material (I'm guessing acrylic based on dimensions).
Not enough extra weight to matter in this application.
Hey again
Ok so I modified my design and replaced the 2x8 inches with 2x6 as you recommended.
I however, left the support bars on 2x6 as well, not sure if it was necessary I just felt they looked too small! See below
Just one question, I just saw you used timber to build your stand, some wood is hard to find in Ireland, I was gonna built the tank out of pine but I could also use timber (treated or not treated) and price wise there is very little difference! what do you recommend?
Ok so I modified my design and replaced the 2x8 inches with 2x6 as you recommended.
I however, left the support bars on 2x6 as well, not sure if it was necessary I just felt they looked too small! See below
Just one question, I just saw you used timber to build your stand, some wood is hard to find in Ireland, I was gonna built the tank out of pine but I could also use timber (treated or not treated) and price wise there is very little difference! what do you recommend?
chris melb
Member
Building a stand for a shallow prop tank that is 60" long x 23.6" deep & only 11.8" tall (72 US gallons). Given the low volume of water, can I get away with using 2x4 for the red upper rails or is 2x6 necessary because of its length? Greatly appreciate ur feedback RocketEngineer, this is such a great thread. 
.
.
Last edited:
MidwesternTexan
Average Joe
Thanks for this great thread.
Over a year ago I started my 180 frame based primarily on this thread.
So, no questions, just nutshell version of the stand build and covering;
I used only reclaimed/reused lumber I had left over from framing my shed- which was also framed with used/reclaimed lumber.
Top and bottom frames made and squared:
Assembling the uprights:
Bottom frame leveled, uprights added and plumbed:
Top Frame added:
Close Final frame, I also added center supports:
I made a slighlt change to the uprights on the corners/ends:
During the transfer of my 125 to my 180, the final frame:
Over a year ago I started my 180 frame based primarily on this thread.
So, no questions, just nutshell version of the stand build and covering;
I used only reclaimed/reused lumber I had left over from framing my shed- which was also framed with used/reclaimed lumber.
Top and bottom frames made and squared:
Assembling the uprights:
Bottom frame leveled, uprights added and plumbed:
Top Frame added:
Close Final frame, I also added center supports:
I made a slighlt change to the uprights on the corners/ends:
During the transfer of my 125 to my 180, the final frame:
MidwesternTexan
Average Joe
I used these simple fasteners so that I could easily pop the panels on and off,
total access, and I also have a basement sump.
How it looks now, still needs a little sanding and coating- it's all Maple Ply
total access, and I also have a basement sump.
How it looks now, still needs a little sanding and coating- it's all Maple Ply
blackradon
New member
hey everyone! i need some help with my tank stand i want to build. This is my first stand but its kinda of the tough because the tank and sump are the same size.
Tank size is 36L 10H 12W. The sump is slightly bigger because of the black trim.. anyways, Im just not sure what size of stand to build. Should I just make the whole thing bigger that would change the supports of the DT.. HELP!!!!:sad2:
Tank size is 36L 10H 12W. The sump is slightly bigger because of the black trim.. anyways, Im just not sure what size of stand to build. Should I just make the whole thing bigger that would change the supports of the DT.. HELP!!!!:sad2:
scubasteve3
New member
To make the stand as posted on the first page by Rocket Engineer, do you think you could do it with a cordless saw and impact driver?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Reciprocating-Saw-1-Battery-Kit-with-Free-M12-1-4-in-Cordless-Hex-Impact-Tool-Only-2420-21-2462-20/204463348
Or would you need something like a tablesaw, circular saw, etc
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Reciprocating-Saw-1-Battery-Kit-with-Free-M12-1-4-in-Cordless-Hex-Impact-Tool-Only-2420-21-2462-20/204463348
Or would you need something like a tablesaw, circular saw, etc
Ok, after reading and re-reading I still managed to miss a vital part of the OP
My stand is 72.5" long by 18" wide by 38" tall, I built it according to the plan EXCEPT I used 2x6 for the top rail with 2 x 4 at the bottom. I put a 2x6 at the backside under the top rail running vertically tied to the bottom rail, do I need one in the front? This will mess up my install and access to the sump but I guess if I have to I will add one and figure it out.
Also, my tank is 72.5 x 18 x 28 deep, with that narrow of a stand will there be a tipping danger? It will be mounted on bare concrete floor.
Thanks
My stand is 72.5" long by 18" wide by 38" tall, I built it according to the plan EXCEPT I used 2x6 for the top rail with 2 x 4 at the bottom. I put a 2x6 at the backside under the top rail running vertically tied to the bottom rail, do I need one in the front? This will mess up my install and access to the sump but I guess if I have to I will add one and figure it out.
Also, my tank is 72.5 x 18 x 28 deep, with that narrow of a stand will there be a tipping danger? It will be mounted on bare concrete floor.
Thanks
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
A saw like that would be very hard to get straight cuts with. A circular saw is a much better option.
ericarenee
New member
This is similar to mine..... Bit mine has the Tilted Belt Driven motor. So the motor is way up out of the way
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...Saw-with-Adjustable-Laser-MS1290LZA/204321514
moondoggy4
Team RC
1x4?
1x4?
I think you will have great success with the correct type of wood. The Douglas Fir that you can buy at the big box stores seems to be of good quality and strength and does not split easy like some of the softer woods out there. Or you can just use oak and be done with it no need to skin it.
1x4?
I think you will have great success with the correct type of wood. The Douglas Fir that you can buy at the big box stores seems to be of good quality and strength and does not split easy like some of the softer woods out there. Or you can just use oak and be done with it no need to skin it.
scubasteve3
New member
Thanks. I'll get something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1...ar-Saw-with-Electric-Brake-DWE575SB/203740647
I think a 7 1/4" blade should be enough to cut 2x4's in the 45 deg angle as well
