DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Lol or whatever. You would totally say it like that garanteed

I am missing something..

A miter saw is the best for boards like 2x4 1x4 etc.. It will do a nice square cut. It is especially good for cross cuts.

A table saw is the best for plywood or ripping long pieces.

A circular saw is ok for plywood if you use a guide otherwise it wont be perfectly straight. Same for crosscutting...
 
I am missing something..

A miter saw is the best for boards like 2x4 1x4 etc.. It will do a nice square cut. It is especially good for cross cuts.

A table saw is the best for plywood or ripping long pieces.

A circular saw is ok for plywood if you use a guide otherwise it wont be perfectly straight. Same for crosscutting...

No no, I was just laughing because people won't usually text, or whatever. Is something people say. It just threw me off to read that
 
This is the stand I am working on right now.. It is a over sized stand so it needs to be a table top...

Frame:
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Framed the plywood with hardwood so you don't see the edge of the plywood:


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Planed and sanded the framing.

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First coat of stain.
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This is the stand I am working on right now.. It is a over sized stand so it needs to be a table top...

20150815_142638_HDR_zpsrs8yzyvg.jpg




A cool trick for making better cross cuts on ply is to take a razor knife and score your line first, using a nice straight edge as a guide, and keep your saw blade on the drop side of your score line when making that final cut.
This will make a less chattery/splintered cut.
 
This is the stand I am working on right now.. It is a over sized stand so it needs to be a table top...

20150815_142638_HDR_zpsrs8yzyvg.jpg




A cool trick for making better cross cuts on ply is to take a razor knife and score your line first, using a nice straight edge as a guide, and keep your saw blade on the drop side of your score line when making that final cut.
This will make a less chattery/splintered cut.

Yea I heard of doing that.. I have a blade for plywood that helps too ..
That is the stock cut. I figured it would be ok after sanding and it was. I probably should have did the cut my self I just hate cutting a piece of ply that big with my table saw.


The bad thing I did was nick it with the planer. I got careless but I sanded it but I guess not good enough because I can see the nicks after staining a little.. I am a perfectionist..
 
I shoot for perfection as well, it doesn't always happen, but I try, and I try to post helpful hints to help others so I hope it didn't read like I was bagging or anything, still looks great.
30 years as a carpenter, and I still reach for a planer last for that same reason.
 
I shoot for perfection as well, it doesn't always happen, but I try, and I try to post helpful hints to help others so I hope it didn't read like I was bagging or anything, still looks great.
30 years as a carpenter, and I still reach for a planer last for that same reason.

Nope not at all, I will take any advice I can get.. For me it is just a hobby.
This was my first attempt at any kind of edge banding.

Yea I nicked it on the one side only my first side..
 
Looking to harvest some good ideas. Please chime in with any concerns , recommendations, or other great ideas to incorporate. We're converting our two car garage into a hobby room. Will enclose it completely and add a split system for HVAC. I get a 10*14 aquarium room and want to put three tanks in wall, a 180, 120 and a 40 tall. The fish room gets a separate thermostat and 18 BTU HVAVC head to help keep temp where it will need to be. The in-wall incorporation of the stands is the twist from this thread. I want the tanks to be flush with the exterior of the wall. The wall will be 2*4, 16" on center. My thought is to use this plan with a few tweaks. 1. build it on a direct contact plate under all four sides with a plywood deck. 2. swap the position of the two red uprights on each corner so the top rim joint connection spans one rather than two uprights. This will also work better with the "Stud" orientation. 3. Use a top skin of 1/2" plywood. the stand will be 1/2" oversize side to side as will the opening in the wall to allow required wiggling to get it aligned correctly and then picture frame the tank with molding on the viewing side to conceal the gap. I'll post a sketch in a little bit.
 
Question about the top of a stand. Frame is done and I want to add a top. Was thinking of using 1" by 8" pine boards where as 2" would extend outside the perimeter of the tank to allow for a small shelf/ledge. Is this option ok or would it be better to use a single 1/2" sheet of plywood cut to allow a 2" overhang around the perimeter of the tank? Are there concerns using one or the other that I need to be aware of? Or is either option ok?
 
Question about the top of a stand. Frame is done and I want to add a top. Was thinking of using 1" by 8" pine boards where as 2" would extend outside the perimeter of the tank to allow for a small shelf/ledge. Is this option ok or would it be better to use a single 1/2" sheet of plywood cut to allow a 2" overhang around the perimeter of the tank? Are there concerns using one or the other that I need to be aware of? Or is either option ok?

As long as it is flat, either option is acceptable for a rimmed tank. If the tank requires full bottom support, its a different story.
 
Question about the top of a stand. Frame is done and I want to add a top. Was thinking of using 1" by 8" pine boards where as 2" would extend outside the perimeter of the tank to allow for a small shelf/ledge. Is this option ok or would it be better to use a single 1/2" sheet of plywood cut to allow a 2" overhang around the perimeter of the tank? Are there concerns using one or the other that I need to be aware of? Or is either option ok?

Personally I prefer 3/4" plywood...
If you have a rimmed tank it probably would not make much difference but they need to be pretty flat. Be nice if you ran them through a planer. How big is the tank too?

It is just hard to get wood that is flat nowadays. Is either swollen or warped or not planed even. I just bough oak that is sanded and wrapped in plastic and is furniture grade and they still are different sizes etc..
 
By the way the oak plywood top I just did turned out pretty good. I framed it with solid oak. This is after poly.

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Thanks. The tank is 120 gallon framed 4x2x2. The 1bys look flat but with a level on them they are off slightly. I'm thinking a plywood top may be the best option.
 
So... I have an idea... I want to build a stand for my 6' 180 that will fit a 6' 250 that slides in from the back. Many issues come to mind.
#1. The 180 will be in the wall so the stand will be longer and wider.
From what i've read I suppose the tank will be floating.
My design (In my head) will be a little different. I'm thinking, 2x8 headers about (7' ish) sitting on top of solid legs to the floor. Maybe 3, 2x8's to 6 legs (2 legs per 7' 2x8) to support the 180 gal. Then extend the stand to enclose the sump/fuge. In my mind 3 2x8's will support the weight with 1/2" ply on top to distribute the weight evenly. There would be room for a 5" gusset(?) on the side not skinned.

Throw me some opinions!
 
My 125g mega stand build!

My 125g mega stand build!

Okay, so I've built my stand, sump, ATO container, power distribution control center and am about 95% done with the canopy (needs final trim work). I wanted a big stand with a LOT of room. Tired of fighting to work in the tank, feed the tank, clean the sump, fill the ATO etc, etc, etc. I'm really, REALLY glad we have a 10' ceiling in the room the tank is going in LOL!I hope to have the tank running before Oct.

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