DIY Stands Template and Calculator

I'm having trouble understanding this design:

148629dual_tank_stand__Medium_.jpg


Aren't tanks supposed to sit on the edges of a stand so the weight distribution goes into the vertical supports?

If the weight of the tank sits on just the cross sections of the 2x4's, won't that snap it? Of course, this depends on the wood I suppose.

I want to stack two 40 gallon breeders.

Do we need nails, bolts, etc?

I haven't had to design a stacked-rack before, so I'm a bit confused.

Do we have a parts list for certain size tanks? Say.. 40 gallon breeders, 75 gallons, etc. and how many screws per cross support?
 
chatyak said:
I'm having trouble understanding this design:

148629dual_tank_stand__Medium_.jpg


Aren't tanks supposed to sit on the edges of a stand so the weight distribution goes into the vertical supports?

If the weight of the tank sits on just the cross sections of the 2x4's, won't that snap it? Of course, this depends on the wood I suppose.

I want to stack two 40 gallon breeders.

Do we need nails, bolts, etc?

I haven't had to design a stacked-rack before, so I'm a bit confused.

Do we have a parts list for certain size tanks? Say.. 40 gallon breeders, 75 gallons, etc. and how many screws per cross support?
Click to expand...

Yes but my guess is that is going to have plywood and is going to hold multiple frag tanks which usually are shallow and don't add much weight.
 
Thanks Floyd R Turbo! I'm rather proud of it as it is my first true wood working project that had to look nice.

Big thanks to Rocket Engineer for giving out the plans in the first place.
 
chatyak said:
I'm having trouble understanding this design:

Aren't tanks supposed to sit on the edges of a stand so the weight distribution goes into the vertical supports?
Click to expand...

Most tanks are intended to only be supported by the perimeter. In the case of this design, the front and back edges are fully supported while the short sides "float". Since this was intended for smaller tanks, the short edges don't need support when all four corners are supported.

chatyak said:
If the weight of the tank sits on just the cross sections of the 2x4's, won't that snap it? Of course, this depends on the wood I suppose.
Click to expand...

A "snap" only really happens when a force is applied at a very small location along the board. This kind of point load doesn't occur under a tank as the entire length of the tank is contacting the board. That distributed load is much easier for the wood to handle. Try snapping a 2X4 some day by hitting the narrow side and let me know how it goes.

chatyak said:
Do we need nails, bolts, etc?
Click to expand...

Fasteners (coated deck screws preferably) and wood glue will give you the best results. Dry assemble the whole thing before you apply glue so you can fix any issues before the whole thing goes together permanently.

chatyak said:
I want to stack two 40 gallon breeders.

I haven't had to design a stacked-rack before, so I'm a bit confused.

Do we have a parts list for certain size tanks? Say.. 40 gallon breeders, 75 gallons, etc. and how many screws per cross support?
Click to expand...

The design you see was for 3 tanks in total. You can either use it with two and have the bottom open or just use a regular design sized to the tanks you want to use. I recommend a couple screws at each joint at the minimum.

Good Luck,
 
naecO.rM said:
Thanks.
Here are my cabinets scheme
Top view
Front and back view . Front and back frames are the same sizes, just only a different that on front frame uprights are not in one line.

Can I take out front middle upright?
What is a better way to do a new support for a top of cabinet?
Click to expand...

If you can get that frame between the front uprights and the front of the stand where the leg you are are trying to remove is located, then yes, you can remove the middle upright.

The best way to add support to a cabinet is to build a new stand :spin3:. Just my opinion.
 
Back to the supported by the perimeter thing.
I just built your stand for a 93 frameless.
Marinelands stands have no top and Id like to do the same.

Thoughts?
 
RocketEngineer said:
Most tanks are intended to only be supported by the perimeter. In the case of this design, the front and back edges are fully supported while the short sides "float". Since this was intended for smaller tanks, the short edges don't need support when all four corners are supported.



A "snap" only really happens when a force is applied at a very small location along the board. This kind of point load doesn't occur under a tank as the entire length of the tank is contacting the board. That distributed load is much easier for the wood to handle. Try snapping a 2X4 some day by hitting the narrow side and let me know how it goes.



Fasteners (coated deck screws preferably) and wood glue will give you the best results. Dry assemble the whole thing before you apply glue so you can fix any issues before the whole thing goes together permanently.



The design you see was for 3 tanks in total. You can either use it with two and have the bottom open or just use a regular design sized to the tanks you want to use. I recommend a couple screws at each joint at the minimum.

Good Luck,
Click to expand...


I appreciate your help.

This is good to go with 2x4's as well correct - or do we need to use 2x6s etc like the normal stand template?

In my case, 40 breeders seem plenty fine with 2x4.
 
Oops - one other thing rocket. In this double/triple design... the outer posts act as the fastening verticals and take the place of those shorter verticals used in the single stand (green I think). Correct?

I'll post pictures this weekend hopefully
 
johnike said:
Back to the supported by the perimeter thing.
I just built your stand for a 93 frameless.
Marinelands stands have no top and Id like to do the same.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...


I beleive frameless aquariums need full support under them.. I also believe the 93 marineland tank use thicker glass on the bottom to get away with this.

I just threw a Marineland 93 in the garbage.. The Glue had little micro bubbles in it when filled with water. There have been allot people seeing the same thing. Their glue jobs are horrible. Mine the glass didn't even line up.
 
Last edited:
chatyak said:
I appreciate your help.

This is good to go with 2x4's as well correct - or do we need to use 2x6s etc like the normal stand template?

In my case, 40 breeders seem plenty fine with 2x4.
Click to expand...

For 40B stands, 2X4s are actually overkill but most folks find that they are more comfortable with overkill so that's what they use.

chatyak said:
Oops - one other thing rocket. In this double/triple design... the outer posts act as the fastening verticals and take the place of those shorter verticals used in the single stand (green I think). Correct?

I'll post pictures this weekend hopefully
Click to expand...

That's correct, they act as fastener strips that tie one level into the one blow it. There are other methods to accomplish the same thing but this way it's a little more straightforward.
 
Excellent thanks. One last thing I can think of,

If I was to double the frame like this. (just the double 2x4 part)

_DSC3328.jpg



Would it be too much to have 4 screws drilled through from the outside of the fastener into each perimeter (2 on each).

Picture 2 screws into each horizontal piece, coming from fastener side.

Just thinking aloud in terms of the wood splitting. After that, I could post pics and finish off with wood glue.
 
Hey Rocket,

How tight the corners have to be? (Where the legs meet the top frame)
I have about a 1/8in or so on two of my corners. The stand is sitting level the way it is now. I am wondering if it would be worth it for me the rebuilt the stand now to get those corners tighter. Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
 
rocket - If I use actual hickory for a 120 gallon stand 48x24 that I will build 34" high which dimension of wood should I use. Being as it is one of the strongest woods I imagine 1x4 should suffice. And since I will be getting it from the actual lumber yard it will be true 1x4.

I can get it cut to any dimension though so could do wider. Thoughts?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Beam Deflection - 15 years and I finally broke down and wrote a how to.
Replies
16
Views
904
BeanAnimal
B
adova
300g DIY Acrylic Tank Recommendations
Replies
5
Views
133
griss
griss
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
528
S|\/|S
S
projectsWithSam
Sam's Oceanic 120
8 9 10
Replies
187
Views
2K
griss
griss
AZBigJohn
New Build... I'm back
Replies
15
Views
445
Dustin07
D
Back
Top