DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[platy]

Use of Bottom Brackets

Use of Bottom Brackets

As promised a while back, here the final frame for my hybrid stand for 120G/180G. Front door opening is 46" 3/4. I minimized the interior footprint of the uprights for the 120G (48"). Bottom will be a pond liner, simple and no loss of space. I stained it because I don't like the look of 2*4 and sealed with 3 coat of spar urethane. I'm not sure yet on the skin and I'm running out of time as it's getting cold up here in Canada. I don't have a garage yet...

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Interested in keeping the height of my stand for my 125 g (72lx18wx22h) to a minimum while still providing maximum height under the stand for a sump and equipment.

Similar to the pic above from locke_333, using the basic design with 2x4's, screw strips and 2 center vertical braces (front and back) + 1 horizontal brace on the top rails

-- can I get away with not adding any horizontal braces across the bottom of the tank?
-- Or is it possible to lay the bottom braces flat?

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Michael

 

[platy]

Acrylic or Glass Under Tank

Acrylic or Glass Under Tank

Recently saw a youTube of Julian Sprung's tank. He had placed a sheet of acrylic between his tank and the stand. He liked the way the acrylic caught the light under the tank giving it a floating effect.

I was placing a sheet of glass or acrylic between my new stand and tank. Anyone have experience with either material?

Thanks.

 

[FlyingFishSKYw]

I started my 75 Gal stand today using a modified version of the template in this thread.
Stand is 49" x 24" (base) x 38" tall

I wanted more space, width and depth, for my equipment (sump, ATO reservoir, reactors, etc) so I opted to replace the two rear corner 2x4 uprights with one 2x6 and install a horizontal 2x6 under the top frame (a more structure-savvy friend suggested it to prevent racking). It'll also be a great place to mount my controller, modules, and power bars.

I made the base 24" so I could push the sump out the back a few inches and give me room for plumbing behind the tank.

Here's what I've got so far...





Next step: Plywood floor, some trim around the perimeter, calk it up and a few coats of primer.

For the front and sides, I'm planning on a removable skin- magnetic probably, or velcro.

 

[n2585722]

This may be just me but I would not have modules out power bars in the same area as the sump. Too much water vapor and salt spray. Think about a seperate compartment with an access pot between it and the area with the sump. I have a hex tank but the concept should work on the rectangular tank as well.

 

[vertigo01]

I am finally beginning my new PA 150 build.
I contemplated going the wooden stand route, however I wanted as much space under the stand as possible and decided a steel stand would offer me just a bit more room to work with.

I used 1 1/12 x 1 1/2 x 1/8 wall square tubing for the main section and went with 1 x 1 x 1/16 wall square tubing for the sump base.

The gussets were water jet cut, out of 1/4 A36 and I used a cheapo miter saw with cut off wheel to cut all square tubing. Which did quite well, suprisingly

My plan is to use 3/8 ply primed and painted for the stand's sump base then cut a base of 1/4 PVC sheet as well as 3" high PVC wall's (vertically gusseted ) to capture any drips or spills and finally a piece of sheet insulation ( the 1/2" pink stuff ) for under the sump itself.

Under the tank I will use 3/16 neoprene rubber to help take up any slight imperfections in the stand.

Sorry for the long spiel.
I am looking for skinning ideas and welcome any and all input.
My ultimate goal is to be able to have full interior access. So pull off front and side panels are a must.

 

[Reef Mortician]

I'm wanting to skin mine in white to match the trim and cabinets in our house... Would I use hardwood and paint it, or go with MDF?

Use 1/2 in pine plywood. A hardwood plywood sheet would be a waste if your planning on painting your stand.

 

[rjjr1963]

RocketEngineer. Can you help me interpret the information you posted.

Specifically, Chapter 4: Mechanical Properties of Wood
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fp...tr113/ch04.pdf

Looking at the tables in the document indicates yellow pine has a compression strength parallel to the wood grain of 16,800 kPa or 2,436 psi. Does this mean a 2x4 on end can carry a load of 8,526 lbs if supported properly? Sounds like an awful lot to me.

I'd like to use 4 single 2x4's legs to support the weight of a 180 gallon aquarium.

Thank you.

 

[ThisGuy12]

Alright ladies and gentlemen, I need some assistance. I am in the process of setting up my new 283g aquarium and need a stand for it. I have decided the best route to take is a steel stand.

The stand I have designed in conjunction with other plans/specs I have found online is made out of 2x2x1/4" wall square steel tubing with 1/4" weld seems. The tank is 84" l x 30" w x 25" h (outside dimensions).

What I want to verify is that my design is 100% failsafe IE what the max load it can handle before failing.

I anticipate the tank weighing roughly 3,000lbs in the end with all the sand and rocks installed so as long as the failsafe exceeds 4,000lbs I should be fine. The stand will be sitting on my concrete foundation so no concerns with structural integrity of the home.

Can anyone confirm for me?

 

[03blackmach]

Good morning! I was wondering if anyone could help me with plans for building a stand for a 224 gallon aquarium. The aquarium is 72.5" x 30" x 25" (L x W x H) Planet Aquariums. I would like the stand to be 36" in height.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[ThisGuy12]

Good morning! I was wondering if anyone could help me with plans for building a stand for a 224 gallon aquarium. The aquarium is 72.5" x 30" x 25" (L x W x H) Planet Aquariums. I would like the stand to be 36" in height.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

See my post above yours. My tank is only slightly longer than yours (12") in theory you can eliminate the end hood and make it 72.5" x 30" x 36" high using 2x2x1/4" steel square tubing.

 

[03blackmach]

See my post above yours. My tank is only slightly longer than yours (12") in theory you can eliminate the end hood and make it 72.5" x 30" x 36" high using 2x2x1/4" steel square tubing.

I appreciate the insight, as of right now I'm building the stand using wood.

 

[ThisGuy12]

A standard 2x6 ladder frame with postings (2x6) in all 4 corners and at midspan should be sufficient for your tank length/weight.

 

[03blackmach]

Would 2x4 for the bottom frame would be remain the same? And one of my concerns is, would I need any bracing under the middle of the tank? I'm unsure due to the width being 30"

 

[ThisGuy12]

I would brace the middle of the stand given your length is over 5' (72.5"). The bottom frame can be made out of 2x4 ladder framed since it doesn't really bear any weight (except the weight of your sump). The weight will be transfered along the top framing and down through the posts.

I would sheath the top of the stand with 1/2" plywood to ensure continuous transfer of load across the whole face.

Imagine it looking like this:

[]----------[]----------[]
'|---------- |---------- |
'|---------- |---------- |
[]----------[]----------[]

[] = 2x6 posts
- = 2x6 on end

Then lay a sheat of plywood overtop and sit the tank on that.

 

[03blackmach]

I appreciate the response. I was hoping to get away without any vertical posts in the center of the tank, other than the front and back.

 

[ThisGuy12]

I appreciate the response. I was hoping to get away without any vertical posts in the center of the tank, other than the front and back.

I wouldn't do it without a center post if I were you considering the length of the tank. The only thing that might work is upping the sides to 2x8 and posting on the ends but don't quote me on that as I haven't run the numbers.

Why do you need the clearspan? A central post isn't all that bad.

 

[ohmygod]

thanks for sharing, this is so useful

 

[03blackmach]

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying. With the design I have in mind, I will be using 2x6 for the top frame. I suppose I might need a third 2x6 added to the top frame in the center running the length. My concern was would the center horizontal 2x6 be enough support for the center of the tank not to bow. If not, would another vertical directly center of the stand be needed to resolve the bowing? The stand will have two vertical supports centered, front and back. I'm weary of the 30" depth.

 

[RocketEngineer]

ThisGuy12, you don't need larger verticals ever. A 2X4 in each corner is sufficient for all applications.

03blackmach, for a tank that size you will need a 2X8 upper frame and can use 2X4s for everything else. A center support is not required for that span given a 2X8 is used.

 

[03blackmach]

Thank you RocketEngineer. Building to the plans you originally posted would work with just swapping the upper frame to 2x8.
As far as the plywood top goes, I'm going to use two sheets of 3/4 ply. Is it fine to drive the screws from the top as long as they're countersunk?