DIY Stands Template and Calculator

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Here's my 40 breeder stand.
 
I'm planning on using this design for a 30 gallon long tank. 36" by 12" by 16". I was wondering what size boards would be sufficient. 2x4's may be an overkill? trying to create space under the stand as much as possible. Any guidance would be great as this will be my first attempt at this

txs guys. Shop capabilities are to be determined, but I'm hopeful that it will turned out well.

Given the size of your tank, one option is to use 1X4s and pocket screws. Think about building 4 picture frames (two uprights and two horizontals) and then attaching them at the corners to make a box. This technique only requires a good miter saw, the pocket hole jig, and a drill. It will give you the most amount of space under the tank, you just need to make sure the sump can fit through the front opening.

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Here's my 40 breeder stand.

Very nice. Looks professionally done.
 
Given the size of your tank, one option is to use 1X4s and pocket screws. Think about building 4 picture frames (two uprights and two horizontals) and then attaching them at the corners to make a box. This technique only requires a good miter saw, the pocket hole jig, and a drill. It will give you the most amount of space under the tank, you just need to make sure the sump can fit through the front opening.



All lumber would be 1x4's? That's what I was hoping to use if it's strong enough. I plan on skinning it with refurbished wood to give it a stressed/barn wood look to it. I want to have it extend a bit outwards as well, making the tank sit in an inlay with a 1-2" edge all around. Any suggestions on the best approach to doing this?

Thanks RocketEngineer
 
Ok guys I have been all the way through this post and I still cannot find the one thing I am missing for my stand. i built mine with a 2 x 4 skeleton and then wrapped it with 1/2" MDF. i Still need to cut the front out for my doors and that is where my dilema comes in. What hinges do i use if I want them to be invisible but i also want the front of my stand to be smooth all the way across. I have been looking at the european style hinges but I apparently am dumb as a rock because i cannot figure this out.
 
This is my stand for my Hex tank. I started building the stand and canopy about 8 years ago. I got it setup and water added back in September. The specs from the wife were that the sand could not show on the sides of the glass. The top water level could not show. Also any thing on the back of the tank cannot show. All equipment has to be out of sight. This is what I have come up with. I had to get a compromise on the tubing from the wall to the back of the tank. That allowed the top off and water change storage to be in the garage along with the CO2 tank. There is not very much room in a stand below a hex tank, but I made it work.

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Given the size of your tank, one option is to use 1X4s and pocket screws. Think about building 4 picture frames (two uprights and two horizontals) and then attaching them at the corners to make a box. This technique only requires a good miter saw, the pocket hole jig, and a drill. It will give you the most amount of space under the tank, you just need to make sure the sump can fit through the front opening.



All lumber would be 1x4's? That's what I was hoping to use if it's strong enough. I plan on skinning it with refurbished wood to give it a stressed/barn wood look to it. I want to have it extend a bit outwards as well, making the tank sit in an inlay with a 1-2" edge all around. Any suggestions on the best approach to doing this?

Thanks RocketEngineer
I built the stand for my 40 gal. out of 1x4. It's plenty strong then wrapped it with 1/2 plywood. From 75 and up I think you need 2 x 4
 
Rocket, I used you design and build my stand out of 2x8 and 2x4. My question to you is do I need a sheet of plywood on top of the stand between the aquarium? Tank is CustomAquarium 96"x36"x22"H Thanks
 
Rocket, I used you design and build my stand out of 2x8 and 2x4. My question to you is do I need a sheet of plywood on top of the stand between the aquarium? Tank is CustomAquarium 96"x36"x22"H Thanks

You don't need it depending on the tank. Ask the manufacturer what their recommendation is and follow that recommendation. What you do need is a center leg along the 96" span. With a 2X8 it's just too long a distance to support without excessive deflection.
 
Makes me wonder if an 8" I-Joist would do any better. I've no idea how the specs compare to dimensional lumber but I seem to recall they are rated for longer spans at the same depth.
 
Just curious, would there be any benefit to using treated studs to build a stand, over normal studs? I do intend on finishing the inside of the stand too, just wasn't sure if there would be any benefit to treated since they aren't that much more expensive than normal quality studs.
 
Just curious, would there be any benefit to using treated studs to build a stand, over normal studs? I do intend on finishing the inside of the stand too, just wasn't sure if there would be any benefit to treated since they aren't that much more expensive than normal quality studs.

Absolutely none. PT is for things that get and stay wet or in contact with the ground - to prevent rot and insect damage. The moisture contact our stands endure should be nothing like that.
 
Absolutely none. PT is for things that get and stay wet or in contact with the ground - to prevent rot and insect damage. The moisture contact our stands endure should be nothing like that.

Thank you, figured I'd ask just in case.

Also, is there a specific foam you or anyone could recommend to put between the plywood top and my rimless glass tank? I'm starting to look through this thread, but 168 pages is a lot to go through.
 
Just curious, would there be any benefit to using treated studs to build a stand, over normal studs? I do intend on finishing the inside of the stand too, just wasn't sure if there would be any benefit to treated since they aren't that much more expensive than normal quality studs.

Actually, using PT lumber can cause problems as many of the PT treatments use copper which can then find its way into the tank. Also, most PT boards I've seen are "wet" which makes me concerned about twisting over time. In the end, kiln dried lumber protected with paint/finish are your best option.

Speaking of inside finishing.... Are a couple coats of Killz or Zinser primer sufficient? Or should it be sealed with a top coat of some sort?

Some folks seal theirs but I never did. Even 5.5 years of use and abuse hasn't caused any major issues except where I had a leaky reactor (my fault).

Thank you, figured I'd ask just in case.

Also, is there a specific foam you or anyone could recommend to put between the plywood top and my rimless glass tank? I'm starting to look through this thread, but 168 pages is a lot to go through.

The foam should be dictated by the tank manufacturer. Ask them what they advise and use that for the best result.
 
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This may be just me but I would not have modules out power bars in the same area as the sump. Too much water vapor and salt spray. Think about a seperate compartment with an access pot between it and the area with the sump. I have a hex tank but the concept should work on the rectangular tank as well.

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Do you have any other photos of how you set this up? I am looking to do similar in my 60g cube build but was looking for ideas.
 
I apologize if I missed it, but I plan to build a stand for a standard 120g with frame. I will be using 1x cherry with no center support. Will 1x6 be enough for the top of the stand? I plan to use 1x4's for the legs and bottom.
 
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