So here is a quick rendering of what I was thinking as the inner support frame for the tank. Any thoughts?
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
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So here is a quick rendering of what I was thinking as the inner support frame for the tank. Any thoughts?
don_chuwish
Member
It'll be fine as long as there is a well attached skin on the sides and back. Without that, you could push it over front to back and it'd pivot at all those joints, racking and collapsing. It's also pretty tall and narrow - how will it be positioned in the house?
It'll be up against a wall and it will be skinned. This is just the inner frame supporting the tanks weight itself. Still working on the outer shell design.
don_chuwish
Member
Yeah no worries then. I might even consider attaching it to the wall just to be sure nobody can accidentally topple it over (high center of gravity).
rickztahone
New member
agreed. Use one of those earthquake straps on a stud and/or anchor it. Sleep safe at night.
I just came across this thread as I was searching for ideas on a DIY stand for my new 220G in wall build. (Although I'm not sure how I wasn't aware of it before as its a monster thread
. After reading through a great deal of both of the split threads I had a couple of questions that I didn't see answered before. Hopefully these aren't questions that have been asked before.
First, the tank is a Marineland 220, which is 72x24x30, so I'm planning to use 2x8's for the top frame. As I'm planning out the system, I'm really liking the idea of using a 125 for the sump, but the 125 is also a 72" long tank. Since the tank will be going in the wall it won't look weird for the stand to be wider than the tank, so I'm wondering if it would work to make the stand 79 inches wide instead of 72, so the 125 could slip in between the bottom legs. The 125 is only 18 inches deep, so the stand won't need to be any deeper. Am I asking for trouble making the stand wider so the 220G tank and it's filled weight of close to 2500lbs isn't sitting directly over the legs?
Second, this will be going into a one story house built on a slab. Most of the stand will be on the existing tile floor, but since it will be inset into the wall, there won't be tile under 4 or 5 inches of part of the stand where the wall was. I don't want to rip out the existing tile, but what can I do to build up the inch or inch and a half from the slab to the surface of the tile? I'm afraid that if I tried to do it with wood that it would compress more than the tile and wouldn't support part of the stand as well as the tile.
I was debating just leaving the existing footer and the bottom of the studs from the wall in place and cutting them down so I could sit the back of the top 2x8 frame on the existing studs. Would that be a viable option?
. After reading through a great deal of both of the split threads I had a couple of questions that I didn't see answered before. Hopefully these aren't questions that have been asked before. First, the tank is a Marineland 220, which is 72x24x30, so I'm planning to use 2x8's for the top frame. As I'm planning out the system, I'm really liking the idea of using a 125 for the sump, but the 125 is also a 72" long tank. Since the tank will be going in the wall it won't look weird for the stand to be wider than the tank, so I'm wondering if it would work to make the stand 79 inches wide instead of 72, so the 125 could slip in between the bottom legs. The 125 is only 18 inches deep, so the stand won't need to be any deeper. Am I asking for trouble making the stand wider so the 220G tank and it's filled weight of close to 2500lbs isn't sitting directly over the legs?
Second, this will be going into a one story house built on a slab. Most of the stand will be on the existing tile floor, but since it will be inset into the wall, there won't be tile under 4 or 5 inches of part of the stand where the wall was. I don't want to rip out the existing tile, but what can I do to build up the inch or inch and a half from the slab to the surface of the tile? I'm afraid that if I tried to do it with wood that it would compress more than the tile and wouldn't support part of the stand as well as the tile.
I was debating just leaving the existing footer and the bottom of the studs from the wall in place and cutting them down so I could sit the back of the top 2x8 frame on the existing studs. Would that be a viable option?
Just to follow up on my own question, I was continuing my research and I saw another post where someone was advised not to tie their stand into an existing wall as I suggested at the bottom as it could cause problems if the house shifted and part of the stand got pulled, so I guess that's out.
Now I'm wondering about using some self leveling compound to fill the void and get everything up to the same level as the tile. Good idea?
Now I'm wondering about using some self leveling compound to fill the void and get everything up to the same level as the tile. Good idea?
rickztahone
New member
I would level out the ground for sure, by whatever means.
Perched Urchin
New member
First off, thanks again Rocket. I used your design for my first DT stand 6 years ago and it's rock solid still!
I now have a design problem with which I need some advice, though. For the same tank (a DSA Neo 90 - 36"W x 24"D x 24"H 1/2" glass, rimmed) I want to build a new stand that has more space underneath, as I have moved and will not have a remote sump and fish room for the new setup. Different height is obviously no issue, but for that tank, is it possible to design the stand to house at least a 36" sump, if not longer? For instance, is there a safe way to design this stand with 40" or even 48" of open length underneath? This would mean the front and rear rails of the upper box would have to carry all the weight and the ends of the tank would be unsupported. In my mind I can see it working, especially with a support in the middle of the span front an back, but just want to get an educated opinion on leaving the ends of the tank somewhat unsupported.
I now have a design problem with which I need some advice, though. For the same tank (a DSA Neo 90 - 36"W x 24"D x 24"H 1/2" glass, rimmed) I want to build a new stand that has more space underneath, as I have moved and will not have a remote sump and fish room for the new setup. Different height is obviously no issue, but for that tank, is it possible to design the stand to house at least a 36" sump, if not longer? For instance, is there a safe way to design this stand with 40" or even 48" of open length underneath? This would mean the front and rear rails of the upper box would have to carry all the weight and the ends of the tank would be unsupported. In my mind I can see it working, especially with a support in the middle of the span front an back, but just want to get an educated opinion on leaving the ends of the tank somewhat unsupported.
Just finished the stand for my new 220 build. It when it's done it will be enclosed in a wall and the tank will be viewable from both sides. My build thread is here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2563684
Many thanks to rocket engineer and everyone else on this thread for making this an easy build
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2563684
Many thanks to rocket engineer and everyone else on this thread for making this an easy build
rickztahone
New member
Just finished the stand for my new 220 build. It when it's done it will be enclosed in a wall and the tank will be viewable from both sides. My build thread is here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2563684
Many thanks to rocket engineer and everyone else on this thread for making this an easy build
I would add two more support beams in the bottom section to match the top. This also serves as a good place to mount a plywood sheet without bowing.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
What's the consensus on leaving this frame unpainted? I'm planning to skin and finish the outside and I was thinking I would just leave the inside as bare wood, but it occured to me that maybe that was a bad idea as the humidity and potential for water splashes may be bad for the wood.
Obviously if I'm going to paint it the time to do so is now, before there is a 220G tank sitting on it next week
If I do paint it, whats the best option? I don't want to go all out and do an epoxy or anything. Just something quick and easy to protect the wood from any stray splashes
What's the consensus on leaving this frame unpainted? I'm planning to skin and finish the outside and I was thinking I would just leave the inside as bare wood, but it occured to me that maybe that was a bad idea as the humidity and potential for water splashes may be bad for the wood.
Obviously if I'm going to paint it the time to do so is now, before there is a 220G tank sitting on it next week
If I do paint it, whats the best option? I don't want to go all out and do an epoxy or anything. Just something quick and easy to protect the wood from any stray splashes
FlyingFishSKYw
Member
I used Rustoleum Appliance epoxy Paint. It's at Home Depot/Lowes. Goes on easy peezy and looks great. I used two coats.
Hey, I said no epoxy
But I suppose if it's easy peezy and doesn't involve mixing two parts then maybe I'll let it pass
Reef Mortician
New member
You gotta seal it before it gets put to use. Bare wood will be damaged after a few years of water spillsWhat's the consensus on leaving this frame unpainted? I'm planning to skin and finish the outside and I was thinking I would just leave the inside as bare wood, but it occured to me that maybe that was a bad idea as the humidity and potential for water splashes may be bad for the wood.
Obviously if I'm going to paint it the time to do so is now, before there is a 220G tank sitting on it next week
If I do paint it, whats the best option? I don't want to go all out and do an epoxy or anything. Just something quick and easy to protect the wood from any stray splashes
Hey, I said no epoxy[emoji14] But I suppose if it's easy peezy and doesn't involve mixing two parts then maybe I'll let it pass
don_chuwish
Member
I don't think the humidity would really cause any issue for the bare wood. But I primed with Killz and then topcoated with a bright white semi-gloss latex using a roller and brush. Killz was probably overkill. I sealed up the inside of mine quite well, so it can actually hold a small amount of water if needed, rather than it going on the floor. White paint makes it easier to see things in there too. In short, I'd say painting the inside is optional but has its advantages.
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DIY Stands Template and Calculator
Piece of advice for anyone using wood.
Lightly brush, inject and/or spray with 1 part borax 6 part water to kill and keep drywood termites out. In one of my last stands the evidence of drywood termites was not visible until almost 1. year after everything was setup.
Had to tear everything down and transport everything to orkin concrete bunker to fumigate it. A real pita.
Everything was made out of oak which is hardwood but of course the termites were in the 2x4's.
It's good, cheap preventive maintenance. Would do this 3 or 4x before you put the stand to use.
Take it for what it's worth.
Piece of advice for anyone using wood.
Lightly brush, inject and/or spray with 1 part borax 6 part water to kill and keep drywood termites out. In one of my last stands the evidence of drywood termites was not visible until almost 1. year after everything was setup.
Had to tear everything down and transport everything to orkin concrete bunker to fumigate it. A real pita.
Everything was made out of oak which is hardwood but of course the termites were in the 2x4's.
It's good, cheap preventive maintenance. Would do this 3 or 4x before you put the stand to use.
Take it for what it's worth.
fetta
New member
Ok gonna build a stand for a 125, but want to build it wider and longer incase of future upgrade. If going with 2x8 how long of a span can I get. Also any plans out there for building stand to fit 2 different size tanks. Current tank measures 72.5 X 18.5 X 24. Thanks in advance
Anybody used this template for a 10' tank? Getting ready to order my tank and I want to build my own stand (prices for a stand are crazy)
Tank will be 120" x 30" x 24". Trim on tank is 3/8" thick. Will need to make width and length 3/4" more for stand. Tank will be glass, but will not have trim underneath glass. Will support underneath glass with sheet of 3/4" plywood and styrofoam pad. Still have not decided on stand height.
Looking at supports in front approximately 30" in on each side and then open the rest of the way approximately 60". Planning on a 2" x 8" header in front, back and sides.
Any thoughts?
Tank will be 120" x 30" x 24". Trim on tank is 3/8" thick. Will need to make width and length 3/4" more for stand. Tank will be glass, but will not have trim underneath glass. Will support underneath glass with sheet of 3/4" plywood and styrofoam pad. Still have not decided on stand height.
Looking at supports in front approximately 30" in on each side and then open the rest of the way approximately 60". Planning on a 2" x 8" header in front, back and sides.
Any thoughts?
