DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Kbel1969]

I wouldn't even put those inner pieces in. They waste space and don't offer any structural support. You'll end up with a nice square bottom with no obstructions for your sump. Just beef up your vertical support with a 2x6, and a 2x4 to keep a solid corner, and your inside will be nice and open

 

[RocketEngineer]

One more question! If one were to rotate the green pieces in the original diagram so they lied flat against the outer pink legs would it be as strong?

Absolutely. The green piece is only there to join the top and bottom frames onto the legs.

I notice a lot of people overbuilding their stands. Way to much unnecessary lumber. All that is needed are 2 vertical supports on each corner, and people putting the extra piece inside those 2 are just wasting space, and creating unnecessary weight, it adds nothing as far as support. On the 2 horizontal pieces, just bolt a piece of 1/8" plate steel, and countersink the bolts, you will create about 5000 pounds of support, and won't need a center brace. And the skin will stabilize the stand from lateral forces.

I'm not sure about anyone else but I don't have the tools at home to cut steel plates to size where as I do have the tools to cut wood. Also, adding a 1/8" plate with bolts isn't going to do much as the board that it's bolted to will have to deform enough to put load on the bolts before the steel carries any of the load.

Oh, and a side note: For a 48" long 2X4, a 1/8" X 3.5" X 48" piece of steel weighs in at ~6#s each not including the bolts. Increasing the board size from a 2X4 to a 2X6 increases the weight of the 48" long board by ~3#s. The steel adds twice the weight and given how the load has to go through the bolts, probably won't add much stiffness to it either. By comparison, increasing from a 2X4 to a 2X6 involves less of a weight increase and a significant stiffness increase. :beer:

I wouldn't even put those inner pieces in. They waste space and don't offer any structural support. You'll end up with a nice square bottom with no obstructions for your sump. Just beef up your vertical support with a 2x6, and a 2x4 to keep a solid corner, and your inside will be nice and open

You don't need a 2X6 for a leg as even a single 2X4 in each cover is plenty especially if plywood is used to provide the lateral rigidity. I put two legs in each cover to provide some lateral strength if plywood was not used. The green pieces were never intended to act as structural members and there are a number of alternative construction methods (like pocket screws) that negate the need for said green piece. :wave:

 

[Kbel1969]

Understood, I used a 3' x 3" plate steel for my 48" wide, it doesn't add much weight, but adds a third layer of protection against bowing. Also used 2x6 for the front corners and back corners, and 2x4 on the side corners to stabilize the 2x6's. For a 120 gallon with 5/8" glass, I didn't want to chance any sag on the top frame, hence the plate steel which along with the skin will never bow. I was just saying the pieces for the inner corner are not necessary, especially when maximum space is needed for sumps. They take up valuable room, and provide literally nothing for stability, just an unnecessary option. Ultimately, the plywood back, and skin for sides and front are all the lateral stability that is needed. Also when framing, upright boards should overlap the joints on the top frames and bottom frames.

 

[Kbel1969]

 

[davocean]

Something to keep in mind, what works for you may not be what works for others.
I see a lot of people assume 4 corner support is all that is needed, and this is true for trimmed tanks only, on a trimless tank it is much more critical to have full bottom support.
They are two very different animals.
Also keep in mind the conditions may be different, such as what Ridesbikes brought up, living in an area w/ quakes for example, we need to build taking that into account, shear strength is even more critical in these areas.

 

[Kbel1969]

True, but regardless of location, the most important part is putting on a plywood back of at least half inch minimum. Also glued, and screwed with minimal cutouts. That will be the key to any stands lateral stiffness. In an area like yours, I would be more concerned with the tank holding up. A eurobrace is a definite must in my opinion

 

[ReefMagician]

Hi RocketEngineer,

In your original topic you mentioned that for a 125g aquarium (which is 6 feet) 2x6s were OK. I noticed in a few posts here, you mentioned we should be using 2x8 instead. I built mine with 2x6s, do you think this will be an issue?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Hi RocketEngineer,

In your original topic you mentioned that for a 125g aquarium (which is 6 feet) 2x6s were OK. I noticed in a few posts here, you mentioned we should be using 2x8 instead. I built mine with 2x6s, do you think this will be an issue?

It should be fine.

 

[icedearth15324]

Would cardboard be able to serve a similar purpose as styrofoam between a rimless tank and the plywood support? I mainly ask because it's hard to find sizes of styrofoam smaller than 4x8s and although they aren't expensive, I won't have any other uses for it so it ends up being a waste and space right now is at a premium.

 

[RocketEngineer]

No. Cardboard will absorb moisture and swell/disintegrate. Styrofoam isn't going to have those issues. Use the correct material, it's the preferred option for a reason.

 

[rickztahone]

Would cardboard be able to serve a similar purpose as styrofoam between a rimless tank and the plywood support? I mainly ask because it's hard to find sizes of styrofoam smaller than 4x8s and although they aren't expensive, I won't have any other uses for it so it ends up being a waste and space right now is at a premium.

go to your local hardware store and go to the rug section. They have some padding that can be used for rimless tanks. I have used this under acrylic tanks for years with no problem.

 

[JaySchulz]

Rocketengineer im hoping you can help me with a question.

I'm currently working on getting my carpenter plans to design the stand for my new tank that is coming. Tank deminsions are 81"L x 48"W x 27"T PENINSULA style tank . 40 inch tall stand. My thoughts were 2x8 boards for both bottom and top box frames and 2x8 for legs. Top box would have have ply wood on top. Bottom box would have 2x4 cross members on the interior of the stand so that the sump is not on the ground.

First question is will this be sufficient for this size tank? I would rather it be overkill as I don't want to chance 450 gallons of water on ground.

Second, what is your opinion on center bracing? I'm definetly going to have a center brace on both 81" lengths. But should I have 2 center braces?

Third, do I need any center supports on 48" length?

Thanks ahead of time.

 

[Ou8me2]

I'm building a stand for a 40 Breeder and the Dimensions state the tank is 36 3/16"x 18 1/4" x 16 15/16"

I'm trying to avoid adding the green supports and having center braces to give me easy access to the sump which will be a 20L tank.I'm planning on all the colors except the green supports. I plan on doing pocket holes for everything. What type of screws and the length should I use for the pocket holes? I also plan on putting a top on and bottom for the sump area.

Do I need to add on to my measurements so it will sit properly on the supports? Also, does adding height to the stand make it weaker or affect stability? I'm doing the stand so it's 30" high and with the tank it will be about 46" height with the tank. I'll be skinning the stand and the front will have a false door with magnets holding it on. That way I have plenty of room to work on the sump under the tank.

I have it figure up so far as this:

Top Frame:
2 - 2 x 4 x 36"
3 - 2 x 4 x 15"

Bottom Frame:
2 - 2 x 4 x 36"
3 - 2 x 4 x 15"

Uprights:
8 - 2 x 4 x 30"

I'm guessing 1/2 " plywood would be more than enough for the sump tank support?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Rocketengineer im hoping you can help me with a question.

I'm currently working on getting my carpenter plans to design the stand for my new tank that is coming. Tank deminsions are 81"L x 48"W x 27"T PENINSULA style tank . 40 inch tall stand. My thoughts were 2x8 boards for both bottom and top box frames and 2x8 for legs. Top box would have have ply wood on top. Bottom box would have 2x4 cross members on the interior of the stand so that the sump is not on the ground.

First question is will this be sufficient for this size tank? I would rather it be overkill as I don't want to chance 450 gallons of water on ground.

Second, what is your opinion on center bracing? I'm definetly going to have a center brace on both 81" lengths. But should I have 2 center braces?

Third, do I need any center supports on 48" length?

Thanks ahead of time.

Unless you go really big (2X12 by my calculations), you need a center brace on the 81" sides. A single brace dead center is sufficient. Whether you need additional supports across the 48" width depends on the material the tank will be made out of.

The bottom frame and legs don't need to be any bigger than 2X4s. If you want to create a "bathtub" with the bottom frame, 2X6s with interior 2X4s would be my first choice.

I'm building a stand for a 40 Breeder and the Dimensions state the tank is 36 3/16"x 18 1/4" x 16 15/16"

I'm trying to avoid adding the green supports and having center braces to give me easy access to the sump which will be a 20L tank.I'm planning on all the colors except the green supports. I plan on doing pocket holes for everything. What type of screws and the length should I use for the pocket holes? I also plan on putting a top on and bottom for the sump area.

Do I need to add on to my measurements so it will sit properly on the supports? Also, does adding height to the stand make it weaker or affect stability? I'm doing the stand so it's 30" high and with the tank it will be about 46" height with the tank. I'll be skinning the stand and the front will have a false door with magnets holding it on. That way I have plenty of room to work on the sump under the tank.

I have it figure up so far as this:

Top Frame:
2 - 2 x 4 x 36"
3 - 2 x 4 x 15"

Bottom Frame:
2 - 2 x 4 x 36"
3 - 2 x 4 x 15"

Uprights:
8 - 2 x 4 x 30"

I'm guessing 1/2 " plywood would be more than enough for the sump tank support?

For a 40B you could go with 1X4s instead of 2X4s which would give you slightly more space. If you are going the pocket screw route, the green pieces are unnecessary. Check the instructions on your pocket screw jig to see what type of screws are recommended. I use a Kreg jig with Kreg screws and have never had an issue.

When it comes to commercial tanks, the plastic trim normally adds about 1/4" in each direction. I recommend that the frame fully supports the trim which means it needs to be slightly bigger than the "typical" dimensions. Adjust your numbers accordingly.

To support the sump, 1/2" plywood is plenty.

 

[Ou8me2]

For a 40B you could go with 1X4s instead of 2X4s which would give you slightly more space. If you are going the pocket screw route, the green pieces are unnecessary. Check the instructions on your pocket screw jig to see what type of screws are recommended. I use a Kreg jig with Kreg screws and have never had an issue.

When it comes to commercial tanks, the plastic trim normally adds about 1/4" in each direction. I recommend that the frame fully supports the trim which means it needs to be slightly bigger than the "typical" dimensions. Adjust your numbers accordingly.

To support the sump, 1/2" plywood is plenty.

Thank You for the speedy reply. I think I will stick with 2x4 and I think I'll be fine for the sump without the green pieces. 20L is only 30" long, so should be fine since my tank is 36" roughly. I seen a video of a guy who built a stand for 40 breeder and he went 36 3/16 " another guy went 36 1/4" and that's why I asked about the length cause I wasn't sure if I should compensate. Honestly the guy that used 36 3/16 looked to be about dead on close as I think you could get.

 

[Ou8me2]

So I measured the tank from trim to trim and it was 36 3/16" as 36 1/4 is just a smidge too much. I measured the width also and came up with 18 3/16" wide , so I would need 15 3/16" with the - 3" if I am right.

 

[RocketEngineer]

So I measured the tank from trim to trim and it was 36 3/16" as 36 1/4 is just a smidge too much. I measured the width also and came up with 18 3/16" wide , so I would need 15 3/16" with the - 3" if I am right.

I did not realize you had the tank already. That makes getting the dimensions correct so much easier. The dimensions look good to me.

One note: Make sure you have enough room to remove the skimmer cup when you settle on a stand height. My big setup has a 36" tall stand and that's just enough room to remove mine easily. Just a lesson some learn too late.

 

[Ou8me2]

I did not realize you had the tank already. That makes getting the dimensions correct so much easier. The dimensions look good to me.

One note: Make sure you have enough room to remove the skimmer cup when you settle on a stand height. My big setup has a 36" tall stand and that's just enough room to remove mine easily. Just a lesson some learn too late.

I was thinking about the height also. The good thing about using a 20 long is it's only 13" high. I think I should be okay since I'm not actually having doors or a center brace. I'm making a false door for plenty of access.


Grr.. the skimmer I'm gonna use is Skimmer Size: 4.25" L x 7" W x 17" H ... 30" might be cutting it close. 36" might be better :lolspin:

 

[JaySchulz]

Unless you go really big (2X12 by my calculations), you need a center brace on the 81" sides. A single brace dead center is sufficient. Whether you need additional supports across the 48" width depends on the material the tank will be made out of.

The bottom frame and legs don't need to be any bigger than 2X4s. If you want to create a "bathtub" with the bottom frame, 2X6s with interior 2X4s would be my first choice.

The tank will be glass. Below Ive attached a rendering of how the tank will look in the space it is going.

I have a few problems I'm trying to resolve due to the load bearing pillars that are not going anywhere unfortunately.

PROBLEM NUMERO UNO- Although I would prefer to avoid a center brace on front 48" end so that if I ever need to remove the sump or anything large, I can pull it straight out. Ive thought about a removable center brace for this because I don't think I will really need to pull the sump or anything that big. Just incase though, Removable center brace should be the solution to this problem.

PROBLEM NUMERO DOS- If you look at attached rendering, you will notice the pillars that arnt going anywhere. Somehow I plan to incorporate those into the stand, but thats a whole different subject. The end of the tank will go all the way to the end of the pillars. My problem is that I need center bracing on that 81" span and the pillar takes up 12"s. Because of the pillar the stand length that is viewable is 69"s.

Actual stand length 81" minus pillar width of 12"= 69"s of stand that is visible.
Since the actual stand length is 81", I will need a center support dead center on stand (say at 40 1/2" mark). If I want to make the viewable stand symmetrical and aesthetically pleasing, that center support is going to be right in the way when I open the 2nd of three doors. Hopefully that made sense as its kind of hard to explain.





View attachment tank 1.pdf

 

[RocketEngineer]

The tank will be glass. Below Ive attached a rendering of how the tank will look in the space it is going.

I have a few problems I'm trying to resolve due to the load bearing pillars that are not going anywhere unfortunately.

PROBLEM NUMERO UNO- Although I would prefer to avoid a center brace on front 48" end so that if I ever need to remove the sump or anything large, I can pull it straight out. Ive thought about a removable center brace for this because I don't think I will really need to pull the sump or anything that big. Just incase though, Removable center brace should be the solution to this problem.

PROBLEM NUMERO DOS- If you look at attached rendering, you will notice the pillars that arnt going anywhere. Somehow I plan to incorporate those into the stand, but thats a whole different subject. The end of the tank will go all the way to the end of the pillars. My problem is that I need center bracing on that 81" span and the pillar takes up 12"s. Because of the pillar the stand length that is viewable is 69"s.

Actual stand length 81" minus pillar width of 12"= 69"s of stand that is visible.
Since the actual stand length is 81", I will need a center support dead center on stand (say at 40 1/2" mark). If I want to make the viewable stand symmetrical and aesthetically pleasing, that center support is going to be right in the way when I open the 2nd of three doors. Hopefully that made sense as its kind of hard to explain.

#1: You don't need a center brace in the 48" side, only on the two 81" sides. The 48" span is acceptable.

#2: I wouldn't include them in the structure of the stand itself but I would have them become a part of the finish work instead. Playing around with the width of the vertical dividers on the 69" exposed area, I come up with 1X2s for the verticals which is 69"-4*1.5"=63" of door space. Divide by 3 doors gives you 21" openings. Two 21" openings and two 1.5" verticals puts the leg at 45" from the back which is the worse case span the 48" side of the tank would see anyways and I've already run the numbers on that because of #1 .

HTH,