DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Patrick Cox]

Without the pink pieces, the only thing holding up the box frames are the nails/screws and that's not something I would trust.

If you are going the pocket screw route, mount the pink pieces to the underside of the red and yellow ones that way and eliminate the green boards. If you have the room, you could run the green boards up the back to help tie everything together.

One more question - would you attach the rails to the legs in this manner?... (So each 2x4 rail resting on half of the 2x4 leg.)

Or, what if I built each level of the stand separately so it rested on the one below? Wouldn't this transfer more load to the legs rather than the pocket screw joints?

 

[RocketEngineer]

One more question - would you attach the rails to the legs in this manner?... (So each 2x4 rail resting on half of the 2x4 leg.)

Yes, this is ideal.

Or, what if I built each level of the stand separately so it rested on the one below? Wouldn't this transfer more load to the legs rather than the pocket screw joints?

That would be fine. If you backed the entire thing with plywood it would join the individuals together into a solid unit as well as give you a place to mount the RODI unit and maybe an eletrical box for a mixing pump plug/switch.

You know, you could just about get away with cutting all your boards at 21" because 21"- 3" = 18" between the legs from the front and 21" + 3" = 24" which is the length of your containers. Plus 21" legs will give you enough head room above the container to add salt without skinning knuckles. Just a thought.

 

[Rhodophyta]

Sure, with enough legs 2X4s would work but most of us want open access under our tanks. To span the open distance, you need wider lumber as a doubled 2X4 isn't as stiff as the larger boards.

Example: 500#s distributed across a 48" span.

One 2X4 deflects 0.134"
Two 2X4s deflect 0.067"
One 2X6 deflects 0.035"

Going to a larger board significantly increases the stiffness of that board. Doubling up doesn't help anywhere near as much as increasing the board size does for the same load case.

Actually truthful in the sense it does not say anything false. But it does leave out. You never simply double 2 x4's. Because they are true size 1.5" x 3.5, doubling them would not result in a compatible board. You insert half inch plywood between the two boards. If that does not reduce deflection enough, you can use something that does not deflect instead of plywood. In aquarium stands, you could even triple the 2 x 4. Three 2x's plus two plywood strips should approach anything you can do with a 2 x 6. Plus I do not know if the tank weight is assumed to be distributed over the stand or centered. Glass tanks distribute the weight to their corners. I have seen many fishrooms with glass tanks up to 90 gallons supported only on the corners. Not a good idea. When a marine wholesaler retired, I helped him move out his tanks. One of them was a 90 supported on the left corners and in the center. The right half of the tank dangled unsupported two feet. The wholesale room had been set up almost 30 years before and the missing supports had never been noticed. Fortunately no one ever leaned on that tank. More recently I was in a home where their 29 gallon tank was on two plastic milk crates. Not how you would expect. The crates were stacked on top of each other sideways and the tank balanced on top. The tank edges were unsupported and the tank was held up only by the bottom in the center. I told them this was a very bad idea. Furniture is another bad idea. I keep telling someone I know I will help move his tanks off the dresser. One end has collapsed about six inches so the tanks are at an angle. Now those are bad ideas. Doubling a 2 x 4 with a plywood strip is not in their class. Not even close.

 

[Pprice01]

Gussets help but a sheet of plywood is much more capable of handling shear loads. That's why its used on the outside of houses, to create shear strength in the timber walls. The gussets as you have them aren't really effective because they are still right at the corners which means any load has a long lever arm compared to where the gussets connect.



For plywood, I usually recommend 1/2" but done properly even 1/4" will significantly stiffen a stand. Like you mention, you want to cut out the center of the plywood, not dice up the plywood.



Good luck,

Thanks again RocketEngineer. The stand is 97.5", so I will have to seam it on the back, but will seam it at the center of an upright/leg in order to keep it as long as possible with a single set of ply.

I will leave the sheets intact, and only cut/route holes, maybe large ones, to accommodate access, to maintain the integrity of the ply.

 

[RocketEngineer]

You never simply double 2 x4's. Because they are true size 1.5" x 3.5

Actually you can in this design because the thickness of the horizontal boards has nothing to do with the width of the vertical. Only in framing a wall is plywood needed to get the thickness and width to match.

In aquarium stands, you could even triple the 2 x 4. Three 2x's plus two plywood strips should approach anything you can do with a 2 x 6.

I'm leaving the plywood out of my calculations because the method of attaching the plywood to the boards drastically influences the amount of load carried by the plywood vs the boards. Plus, as stated above, some folks don't include it since it's not needed.

A triple 2X4 without plywood is still less than a single 2X6 with a deflection of 0.045"

Plus I do not know if the tank weight is assumed to be distributed over the stand or centered.

Actually, I have. All my calculations are based on the weight of the tank divided evenly between the two long rails and evenly distributed along the board length.

Glass tanks distribute the weight to their corners.

But if it is an acrylic tank, this is no longer the case. Since I don't run numbers on every single stand built using my thread, I'm going to recommend something that is safe for either case.

I'm a big promoter of best practices. Giving examples of "well it worked for them" situations doesn't fall under the best practices heading because there is nothing proving why it worked in that specific case. A 30 year old tank is probably made using thicker glass than a more modern one. Someone may use numbers for a glass stand to build a stand for an acrylic tank. Who says they glued all the joints or not? It is exactly because of these situations that I recommend what I do. If you wish to build your stand differently, then go do so and I hope it turns out the way you envisioned it. The great thing about DIY is that you can change things to fit your needs but the risk involved with doing so is that you may cut a corner you need later.

 

[Pprice01]

Thanks again RocketEngineer. The stand is 97.5", so I will have to seam it on the back, but will seam it at the center of an upright/leg in order to keep it as long as possible with a single set of ply.

I will leave the sheets intact, and only cut/route holes, maybe large ones, to accommodate access, to maintain the integrity of the ply.

Do I need to seam it? The stand is only 1.5" longer than the plywood at 97.5". It might be stronger to use a single piece of ply at 96", keeping it intact, and leave 3/4" on either side of the plywood back. There's plenty of 2x4 to screw the plywood back to.

Thoughts?

 

[noplay180]

Building stand for a marineland 220 72x24

Building stand for a marineland 220 72x24

Hello I am building a stand for a marineland 220 non-drilled. I would like to avoid a center brace for more flexibility. Wondering should I use 2x4's for 2x6's any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[dburt520]

Just want to post an update to my completed stand:

 

[RocketEngineer]

Do I need to seam it? The stand is only 1.5" longer than the plywood at 97.5". It might be stronger to use a single piece of ply at 96", keeping it intact, and leave 3/4" on either side of the plywood back. There's plenty of 2x4 to screw the plywood back to.

Thoughts?

I wouldn't myself. I make the gap even at both ends, lay in a filler strip, and cover the gap with trim pieces.

Hello I am building a stand for a marineland 220 non-drilled. I would like to avoid a center brace for more flexibility. Wondering should I use 2x4's for 2x6's any advice would be greatly appreciated.

To not need a center brace for a 72" long 220g tank, I recommend that the top frame be 2X8s but everything else can be 2X4s.

 

[TheAquatect]

This seems like a good place to get some input on a stand design!

I just got a new 8' x 2' 300g tank which has a frame on the bottom, making it a perimeter load. I designed an over-sized stand of 8' x 2' 4" to get some room for equipment. The stand would be made from 1.5" x 3" (red) and 1.5" x 1.5" (blue) tubular aluminum. I opted for these sizes because the stand will be exposed with inset doors for a furniture type look.



I am planning on using 3/4" - 1" of sintra expanded PVC board and then placing the tank on top. Aside from overall input, I really would like to know if I need to add support directly under the entire perimeter, or will the load transfer to the back and sides as I have it now, including the pvc top which is not pictured.

Original


OR Modified?


Thanks!

 

[BrettDS]

Hello I am building a stand for a marineland 220 non-drilled. I would like to avoid a center brace for more flexibility. Wondering should I use 2x4's for 2x6's any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I just built one of these for my marineland 220 (although my tank is drilled). I used 2x8's for the top and 2x4's for the rest and it seems to be working great. The tank has been set up for almost 3 weeks now and hasn't crashed to the floor yet

I still need to finish the stand. Hopefully that will happen in the next couple of weeks

 

[Pprice01]

I wouldn't myself. I make the gap even at both ends, lay in a filler strip, and cover the gap with trim pieces.

I made it even with single piece and since it was the back didn't fill it. Sides are also skinned and the openings were cut with a jugsaw and then flush-trimmed with a router.

 

[Pprice01]

 

[Pprice01]

Wrong photo, sorry. This is the before photo

 

[noplay180]

Thanks everyone

Thanks everyone

I just built one of these for my marineland 220 (although my tank is drilled). I used 2x8's for the top and 2x4's for the rest and it seems to be working great. The tank has been set up for almost 3 weeks now and hasn't crashed to the floor yet

I still need to finish the stand. Hopefully that will happen in the next couple of weeks

Thanks, I put this together Thursday.

 

[Zacktosterone]

just checking my math

just checking my math

i've got a 65"x30"x24" tank it's made of 3/4" glass

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.

I'm good to use 2x8 correct?

(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = D-3"
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.

2x8 still?

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2" These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.

straight forward

(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.

am i using 2x4? is this the stand supports? i don't undetstand what H-7" means or H-9" etc

(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.

straight forward

(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = D-3"
straight forward

 

[RocketEngineer]

i've got a 65"x30"x24" tank it's made of 3/4" glass

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.

I'm good to use 2x8 correct? Yes

(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = D-3"
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.

2x8 still? Yes, same as red.

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2" These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.

straight forward

(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.

am i using 2x4? is this the stand supports? i don't undetstand what H-7" means or H-9" etc The purple boards are 2X4. Their length is based on the 2X8 number so stand height -10.75 = purple length.

(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.

straight forward

(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = D-3"
straight forward
HTH,

 

[Zacktosterone]

Can i still leave it open? Do i need a center brace?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Can i still leave it open? Do i need a center brace?

No center brace needed.

 

[Zacktosterone]

No center brace needed.

And a 2x8 will do it no problem?? Its over 2000lbs filled lol