RocketEngineer
Space is big.
At only 65" long, the span is short for a 2X8. Those can span over 72" depending on tank size.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
At only 65" long, the span is short for a 2X8. Those can span over 72" depending on tank size.
I've read through a lot of this thread and it has a wealth of wisdom that has helped countless projects over the years. I'm designing a stand for a 120g 48"x24" tanks and have a couple questions.
1. on the front side I want to have an arched cutout like some other furniture we have but I don't want to see the 2x4 for the front lower brace. Can I move that back 6-12" so it's not right up front and connect it to the left and right bottom boards? I'd then just use the upright posts on the front going straight down. My goal is to keep the front as open as I can for the sump access. I'm planning on using 2x6" boards for the top frame with no center vertical support on the front. I don't mind a center support on the rear and top if it is necessary.
2. I've never used pocket screws before. I want to confirm that pocket screws to attach the framing for the top and bottoms will be enough support without inside screw boards. I'd like to make it as roomy as possible. Are pocket screws needed along the corner uprights or just at the ends of the boards? I'm planning on a skin using 1/2" or 3/4" x 4" or 6" boards across the front and removable doors. Sides and back will have full skin cover and likely the top frame will be covered as well. All mostly for added stability.
3. what is recommended to coat the inside of a hood/stand to protect from the saltwater?
thanks for any tips on the design! Finally getting towards a design my wife will like and it will match into our existing living room.
1. on the front side I want to have an arched cutout like some other furniture we have but I don't want to see the 2x4 for the front lower brace. Can I move that back 6-12" so it's not right up front and connect it to the left and right bottom boards? I'd then just use the upright posts on the front going straight down. My goal is to keep the front as open as I can for the sump access. I'm planning on using 2x6" boards for the top frame with no center vertical support on the front. I don't mind a center support on the rear and top if it is necessary.
2. I've never used pocket screws before. I want to confirm that pocket screws to attach the framing for the top and bottoms will be enough support without inside screw boards. I'd like to make it as roomy as possible. Are pocket screws needed along the corner uprights or just at the ends of the boards? I'm planning on a skin using 1/2" or 3/4" x 4" or 6" boards across the front and removable doors. Sides and back will have full skin cover and likely the top frame will be covered as well. All mostly for added stability.
3. what is recommended to coat the inside of a hood/stand to protect from the saltwater?
thanks for any tips on the design! Finally getting towards a design my wife will like and it will match into our existing living room.
Millwright
New member
I need to figure out how to upload pics. With that said I used 4 pieces of 3/4"X 3.5" 7 ply plywood laminated together. Those were laminated with 2 pieces of 3/4" X 6" 7 ply plywood for my top beam. The 4 pieces of 3/4 are under the aquarium. The 2 pieces of 6" come up past the bottom and cover the plastic trim that is on the aquarium. Tank is 4' 150 gallon. 2 of them spanning 48" have not flexed at all. Tank has been up 4 months.
Zacktosterone
Active member
Im going to put the Stand together today and upload pics
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Do you have a picture of what you are trying to duplicate? I'm trying to visualize what you're going for and the more information I have, the better the answer I can give you. I think you'll be okay but I want to make sure.
As long as you use both legs in each corner and each pair is screwed to each other and both frames, you have plenty of support. Each pair can be screwed together with regular deck screws especially as you are going to hide them behind a facade.
I used kilz and after a number of years it's starting to show some wear. A quality exterior paint over top of it would probably have been a good idea. Another alternative is a clear finish intended for harsh environments but I've never used those.
davocean
Active member
Kilz is what I use most for a primer/sealer but as stated it should be top coated for best results.
I also use minwax fast drying polyeurethane for a clear coat when I'm working on stain grade builds or if just adding a clear to natural wood, it's pretty durable and easy to work with.
I also use minwax fast drying polyeurethane for a clear coat when I'm working on stain grade builds or if just adding a clear to natural wood, it's pretty durable and easy to work with.
rickztahone
New member
holy oversized pictures Batman!
PorkChop
New member
I had posted this elsewhere and was directed here. I did not know this existed, but, great that it does.
Basically the question I have is that I have a standard pine stand from whatever local place... 48"x24" for a standard 120G tank.
I want to get a large sump to put in there, the current one I'm looking at is 44" long. I have 45" inside the stand... so it should fit, but I don't think I can get it in from the front or the back, and from the top there is a brace that is in the middle that goes from back to front.
I'm wondering if I remove that brace, put the sump in, and then replace it if there are any issues or concerns there? It seems like it's just stapled in right now, so I'd replace with screws.
The only "issue" I can think of at this point would be to leak test the sump prior to putting it in, as once I put the tank on top and fill it... the sump is there forever(ish).
Other than that ... are there any issues, suggestions, ideas here?
Thanks,
-Porkchop
Basically the question I have is that I have a standard pine stand from whatever local place... 48"x24" for a standard 120G tank.
I want to get a large sump to put in there, the current one I'm looking at is 44" long. I have 45" inside the stand... so it should fit, but I don't think I can get it in from the front or the back, and from the top there is a brace that is in the middle that goes from back to front.
I'm wondering if I remove that brace, put the sump in, and then replace it if there are any issues or concerns there? It seems like it's just stapled in right now, so I'd replace with screws.
The only "issue" I can think of at this point would be to leak test the sump prior to putting it in, as once I put the tank on top and fill it... the sump is there forever(ish).
Other than that ... are there any issues, suggestions, ideas here?
Thanks,
-Porkchop
So I've finished the frame of my stand and I was at Lowe's and found some great unfinished oak cabinet sections with doors already hung. My plan was to remove the oak front facing and affix to my stand framework and get oak trim pieces to finish it out on top and bottom.
My big question is how to affix the oak framework? On the cabinets it's all jointed and glued but I'm not a huge woodworker so I don't have a lot of different tools. Would I be able to drill pilots, screw and then fill with plugs or is there a better way?
I want it to look nice but don't want to sink more money in tools I would most likely only use on this project.
My big question is how to affix the oak framework? On the cabinets it's all jointed and glued but I'm not a huge woodworker so I don't have a lot of different tools. Would I be able to drill pilots, screw and then fill with plugs or is there a better way?
I want it to look nice but don't want to sink more money in tools I would most likely only use on this project.
davocean
Active member
A pin nailer would probably be less conspicuous than screws and filler, and sometimes depending on your frame thickness you can clamp the new face frame to framing and come from behind frame and screw together from the inside, you just want to counter sink your holes and be careful not to screw through the face, that would be my first choice in what you are attempting to do.
It's possible but the stuff is only like 3/4" so I'd hate to bust through. Because of the stand design it's tough to get close to corners too unless I got a bunch of different screw lengths.
I never used oak either but am assuming since it's a dense wood I need to drill pilot holes regardless if I'm screwing correct?
I never used oak either but am assuming since it's a dense wood I need to drill pilot holes regardless if I'm screwing correct?
davocean
Active member
Depends on far the screw travels, it is always best to counter sink first, yes, but if screws are just long enough to bite into it it shouldn't be an issue, clamps really help in this, and you don't need a whole lost of screws, and best is one length so you don't accidentally grab the wrong one and go through.
You only need about a 1/4" to 1/2" into the new, and of course no greater than 1/2"
You do have to be careful in not going through the face.
Yes a pin nailer is a finish nail gun, makes easy.
Sorry for the delay. I didn't get notified of the update to the thread and life kept me from checking in.
I've attached a real quick basic idea of the stand I'm planning on. The grayed area is the façade on the front lower portion.
Thanks! Good to know. I'm hoping to avoid the inside screw strip as my sump is 36" wide and I need as much room as I can get.
Once I get the stand built before the façade I'll give it a good coat of exterior paint. I've done stain and polyurethane but I don't think it needs that much work for the inside of the stand.
I've attached a real quick basic idea of the stand I'm planning on. The grayed area is the façade on the front lower portion.
Thanks! Good to know. I'm hoping to avoid the inside screw strip as my sump is 36" wide and I need as much room as I can get.
Once I get the stand built before the façade I'll give it a good coat of exterior paint. I've done stain and polyurethane but I don't think it needs that much work for the inside of the stand.
