DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Is it worth putting a plywood top on? I was looking at some and they are all cupped. I don't want to spend time getting my 2x6s perfectly flat then fight with a piece of plywood that won't lay flat. Ive got an all glass with trim 180 gallon. Frame is 73"x25".
I realize the plywood can be glued/screws to get flat but don't want to count on that. I want to make sure my tank is fully supported/sitting flat if I'm going through all this re-work.
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I don't think there's any need for plywood under a glass tank with trim. The tank sits on the trim, which only runs around the edges. The wood frame will fully support the tank.
My 220G glass tank with trim has been on a stand I built with these plans with no plywood for more than 2 years with no problems.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Agreed, with a rimmed glass tank I don't think it's quite as important, though it does add support
As for cupped plywood, cheap plywood probably does warp, the plywood I use (and the only I would use for an acrylic or glass/rimless tank) would be 3/4" (actually 23/32") Aruco, which is expensive but very much worth it
As for cupped plywood, cheap plywood probably does warp, the plywood I use (and the only I would use for an acrylic or glass/rimless tank) would be 3/4" (actually 23/32") Aruco, which is expensive but very much worth it
I also use 3/4” plywood. If the frame is perfectly in plane then the plywood will also be flat once it is screwed down. Dimensional lumber has inconsistencies but plywood is pretty consistent as far as thickness. I think the plywood definitely helps but it helps more to keep the stand square & from racking.
I wouldn’t go as far as using lvl’s. I know locally to me a 16” by 16’ lvl is $125. I don’t think I would rebuild the stand eighther, but I’m not sure what point u are at on the build. I know not many people have a planer to use on dimensional lumber, so u have to make sure u use the straightest pieces u can find.
I would go the route Floyd mentioned. Preferably, remove the 1/2” plywood & cut a piece of 3/4” plywood for the top. Shim where it is needed to get it flat. I would use liquid nail under the plywood instead of glue. The liquid nail gets very hard so it will fill in the voids inbetween & around the shims. I would place just enough screws to get it flat & leave it be until the liquid nail dries. Once it dries u can add more screws if u need to. I would also screw right ontop of the shims so u don’t risk sucking the plywood down inbetween the shims.
If possible I would try & shim from the inside of the stand. I would try & add the shims & screw it down before adding the liquid nail. Once u have it flat take a little brad nailer & nail the shims to the plywood from under the stand so the shims stay in place. Then take out the screws & remove the plywood. Then place the liquid nail down & put the plywood back in place. If u nail the shims to the plywood everything should be perfectly in place when u set it in the liquid nail. Then screw it back into the same screw holes.
It will work eighther way but the second option would let u be able to adjust it & get it right without having a big mess of liquid nail. U would also know that the liquid nail is solid because u wouldn’t be moving it around once u set it in place
I wouldn’t go as far as using lvl’s. I know locally to me a 16” by 16’ lvl is $125. I don’t think I would rebuild the stand eighther, but I’m not sure what point u are at on the build. I know not many people have a planer to use on dimensional lumber, so u have to make sure u use the straightest pieces u can find.
I would go the route Floyd mentioned. Preferably, remove the 1/2” plywood & cut a piece of 3/4” plywood for the top. Shim where it is needed to get it flat. I would use liquid nail under the plywood instead of glue. The liquid nail gets very hard so it will fill in the voids inbetween & around the shims. I would place just enough screws to get it flat & leave it be until the liquid nail dries. Once it dries u can add more screws if u need to. I would also screw right ontop of the shims so u don’t risk sucking the plywood down inbetween the shims.
If possible I would try & shim from the inside of the stand. I would try & add the shims & screw it down before adding the liquid nail. Once u have it flat take a little brad nailer & nail the shims to the plywood from under the stand so the shims stay in place. Then take out the screws & remove the plywood. Then place the liquid nail down & put the plywood back in place. If u nail the shims to the plywood everything should be perfectly in place when u set it in the liquid nail. Then screw it back into the same screw holes.
It will work eighther way but the second option would let u be able to adjust it & get it right without having a big mess of liquid nail. U would also know that the liquid nail is solid because u wouldn’t be moving it around once u set it in place
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Great suggestion
Thanks all. I rebuilt the top and used a belt sander to get flat. Thought I got the crowns nice and flat but on one side I screwed it down and found a couple of spots I sanded too low. I shimmed up the top using a new piece of 3/4" melamine.
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Aquarium stand design strength...
Aquarium stand design strength...
I have a design for an aquarium stand based on Joey's (king of diy) design. It looks very similar to Rockets. I have been trying to figure out how to calculate the max weight my design can hold so I can figure out the safety factor. I can email a PDF on Monday if anybody needs it. I may be able to get the PDF tonight. Thanks.
Aquarium stand design strength...
I have a design for an aquarium stand based on Joey's (king of diy) design. It looks very similar to Rockets. I have been trying to figure out how to calculate the max weight my design can hold so I can figure out the safety factor. I can email a PDF on Monday if anybody needs it. I may be able to get the PDF tonight. Thanks.
Djbeasley05
New member
I'm putting a 60 gallon cube on this pedestal with a 40b sump under it. With that pedestal support the cube? There are 6- 3x3 solid wood pillars under the platform. Under the top is 2-2x6's running front to neck where the platform legs sit.
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GreenbriarManor
New member
Good morning all,
I am building a stand for a 60x24x24 rimless.
My plan is to use 2x6 on the top box and 2x4 on the bottom and most likely center braces front and back.
I have two questions:
1. Can I add short 4" legs/feet to the bottom box to hold it up off the floor for cleaning underneath? I have wood floors sitting on a concrete slab sub-floor.
2. If so, what do you recommend? Do I follow the corner leg design and use two 2x4 at 90deg on each corner and then maybe a single one in the center front and back? Or something else?
(Apologies if this has been answered, the thread is so huge that searches for "legs", "feet", etc was difficult to parse.)
Thanks,
J
I am building a stand for a 60x24x24 rimless.
My plan is to use 2x6 on the top box and 2x4 on the bottom and most likely center braces front and back.
I have two questions:
1. Can I add short 4" legs/feet to the bottom box to hold it up off the floor for cleaning underneath? I have wood floors sitting on a concrete slab sub-floor.
2. If so, what do you recommend? Do I follow the corner leg design and use two 2x4 at 90deg on each corner and then maybe a single one in the center front and back? Or something else?
(Apologies if this has been answered, the thread is so huge that searches for "legs", "feet", etc was difficult to parse.)
Thanks,
J
r2odie
Member
I have read much of this long two part thread and am still a little bit confused about how long a span I can have with no center brace. I know many will say put vertical braces to be safe. But I would like to be able to remove my 6 ft sump (should i ever have to) by leaving a 76 inch span in the front. The back will be vertically supported as well as three 2x6 horizontal braces. The tank is 10 ft long and will hold about 350 gal. The top rails are 2x6 and the open span in the front is 76 inches. I will use a temp support if i have to, but would still have to empty the tank to unload the potential weight. The tank is glass with a trim ring on the top, it is also rounded in the front corners (no seams). Thanks for any responses.
Bpb
New member
If you put a door on the end you should be able to remove your sump provided the screw strips aren't in the way
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Glass will flex & it’s very important that the stand keeps that from happening. I wouldn’t go a span of 76” with a 2X6 top frame. I would feel comfortable making that span with a 2 X8 top frame. If u don’t want to do that then I would atleast double up the 2X6 with them glued together.
r2odie
Member
r2odie
Member
Yes, the top is now 2x8 (76" span) but now it has a fiberglassed wood top and the bottom is 2x6.
sfsuphysics
Active member
Just out of curiosity, why even a 2x6 for the bottom? Seems a bit excessive for something that inherently isn't going to bow due to weight at all due to contact with the ground.
r2odie
Member
No real reason, but I had already built the stand with the 2x8 bottom and a 2x6 top. I has originally planned to have vertical supports to facilitate the doors, but then i wanted to have the 76 open span (sump) and use barn door sliding hardware. So I inverted the stand in order to have the 2x8 for the top rails.
sfsuphysics
Active member
Gotcha, I guess you used 2x8s for the bottom because you wanted the sump raised a bit from floor level but didn't want to build a floating platform?
