DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Yes it will effect their strength but it is the short span 24". Can you add another rail 2 x 4 beneath it? I would make the cutout at about 2-3" from the post and at the center of the 2 x 8. Maybe run a 1 x 2 above and below the cut out screwed to the inside of the rail?
 
Two options --

1) Branch off your return pump and feed the frag tank that way. This allows you to control the flow into the frag tank separately, and use it as a quarantine if necessary later on. Much better from the standpoint of having options and control.

2) Plumb down and back up again. Water will flow like it didn't ever go down, however, the "trap" (U shape) won't drain unless you put a drain on it.. You'd do this by putting a T in with a valve on it.

Either option is viable and doesn't risk the integrity of the stand.
 
I measured last night....it appears that I used 2x8's because it is 7" wide. Ron (midtown stomp)...I like option #1 because it doesn't rely on height but rather just the return pump.....not sure I am following you on option #2...
Frank
 
Ok guys need your opinion. 350 gal L shaped tank with below dimensions:
72" x 60" x 30"
Should I treat it as two separate tanks and build the 72" stand and then a 30"
stand with 2x8's for the upper frame?
I plan to put a center brace on the 72" stand but it will be not centered, it will be where the other 30" stand connects to the 72" stand. Anybody see a problem with this?
Thanks
<a href="http://s914.photobucket.com/albums/ac346/bobbyrocco/?action=view&current=Lshapedtankexternal.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac346/bobbyrocco/Lshapedtankexternal.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
I would make it one stand as much as possible, Wherever to top frames come toghet try and support them with one leg (so the 2 top frames stay even with each other). Post a picture and we will comment on it.

Also according to the OP 2x6s should be enough.
 
So this is what two separate stands together would look like. But Ithink I get what your saying Fishman. I will draw a new stand with your recommendation.
Thanks
<a href="http://s914.photobucket.com/albums/ac346/bobbyrocco/?action=view&current=Stand.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac346/bobbyrocco/Stand.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
I don't see why that wouldn't work. My fear is that as to parts if you have shift in floor (hopefully not) it could translate directly to the tank. Where if every joint of the frame is on a leg then the stand will take some of the distortion.
 
The stand will be sitting directly on the concrete foundation of my home so I am not worried about the floor moving to much. This is a in-wall build so I will be using the wall framing as support as well and attaching the stand to the wall. I plan to have a single 3/4" plywood sheet over all of the frames. I think it should work.
 
what do you guys think?

tank is a 200g acrylic 96 x 24 x 20

the wight and yellow boards are 2x4's, the rest are 2x10's......why 2x10's? because I have them:wildone:

stand is going to be 40" tall BTW, and the pic is not done to scale....
200g_fish_tank_stand.jpg
 
Not great on acrylic, but I think you need a few more green cross braces. Also if you don't need the wide front openings I would replace the blue uprights with 2x4 and have 4 across the front and back rather than 3. Although according to the OP you don't need any. This all to maximize support of the acrylic. What you have as I understand would work.
 
I guess i should have added that I plan to put 3/4" plywood (already have it :p) on the top, and on top of the wight boards.:hammer: (skin it with that as well, although I think I might go thinner for the skinning because of the weight.)
 
Is the stand drawn upside down? I assumed the white was the floor of the sump. For acrylic you need 3/4 on the red and green boards nad cross braces..
 
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