DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[locke_333]

On the first page of my build thread is this picture:

Looking beyond the sump you will see a vertical white board. When I built my stand, this board was under the back corner of the 75g tank. While the system was running I realized that the evaporation would drain the 5g ATO bucket in less than a week during certain parts of the year. While trying to find a bigger ATO container, on more than one occasion this leg (and its mirror on the other side) caused me to abandon one container option after another. If I had made the front so it supported the 75g and built the back support large enough to support either a 48" or 72" tank, configuring items under the stand would be infinitely easier.

Going 2X6 doesn't hurt especially if you are going with a 48" opening. It all depends on the final design.

Don't forget to post pics of the final build.

As promised a while back, here the final frame for my hybrid stand for 120G/180G. Front door opening is 46" 3/4. I minimized the interior footprint of the uprights for the 120G (48"). Bottom will be a pond liner, simple and no loss of space. I stained it because I don't like the look of 2*4 and sealed with 3 coat of spar urethane. I'm not sure yet on the skin and I'm running out of time as it's getting cold up here in Canada. I don't have a garage yet...

 

[silentstorm]

need some help!

need some help!

hi everyone... 1st of all, thanks to this thread!

Started following this thread & built my stand for a 180 gallon tank ... few months ago. And finally bought a tank now!

The Problem: the stand seems to be leveled by itself (checked with a spirit level) but when I put the tank on yesterday, noticed a gap on one side... & the tank does not sit flush on the stand.. some pics below to describe it..





I did do a test fill up & found that the tank sits flush with all that weight added... but is it good that way for all the time?? How much deflection can the tank take (is built for?)?

Should I worry about this? Or adding a Styrofoam just in the area under the rim should help level it??

Also the other thing I noticed is, the water level after filling it was higher on one end than the other... I am guessing its cause of the flooring.. slightly sloped (the spirit level reads good for the tank & stand)...Is this fine if I run the tank this way? Or would it hurt the tank/ stand in any way??

thanks for all your help

 

[locke_333]

my 2 cents and not to judge on your leveling skill ( i'm no pro at this ) but to me it looks like the stand must me off level diagonally. how long is your spirit level? the longer the bettre. had a simillar problem on mine with the individual piece before assembly, the seperate frames dried out a bit out of shape. i leveled 50 times my lower frame, added the legs put the top on and added 2 concret patio tile on top while screwing the top and it now seems to be good. i'm leaving the 2 tiles on the stand until i have a tank to put on it sur to make sure it doesn't bend back for the time being. i''m guessing having the weight of the water on makes the stand "sit" properlly. there is surely a gap between the stand and your floor somewhere when empty otherwise it's your floor that is somehow bending to take the shape change...

Never heard of a tank out of shale like that... i might be mistaking though... folling for knowledge

 

[silentstorm]

how do I level now!

how do I level now!

well, I only have a 1 foot level that I used... before I added the plywood top, the 2*6 frame wasn't 100% leveled but not way too off either. So I did level it & then finished with the plywood.
Cant really see if the stand is off with the floor cause its sitting on carpet.. so not sure if it will be off to the floor. And yes you're right, if I push the tank down on the side its not seated, it does raise the opposite diagonal up!!

Am thinking about using the Styrofoam & then checking it... any other suggestions??

the hard way would be to remove the trim on top & re-work the plywood again & then seat the tank!! ...but is there other ways around?

 

[RocketEngineer]

a 1 foot level isn't really long enough to check everything. A 6 footer would be better.

Since the tank has a plastic rim, you DO NOT use foam. There should be nothing between the tank and the stand.

I would pick up a longer level and double check the stand as well as the tank. Some tanks have plastic trim that isn't straight due to the silicone between the plastic and the glass. If the issue is with the tank, I would take it back and get a new one that's built correctly. If it's the stand, I would fix the top of the 2X6 frame to get it true and only then would I reinstall the plywood.

Doing it right means you only have to do it once.

 

[BIG MICK]

Hi all, I have a couple off quick questions, as I am planning a stand at the moment. The stand is to support a glass 6x2x2. My two questions are if planning to use 8x2 for top section can i only have 1 4x2 leg at the front ? Also is using finger jointed pine suitable ?

 

[silentstorm]

yeah, cant use the foam for a plastic rim tank... but I was thinking of using it only around the plastic rim & not on the entire tank bottom..

since I already finished it, its gonna be hard to take the trim out & then try & level..

anyways, I'll get a longer level & check it out 1st... & instead of removing the plywood & trying to level the 2*6 (sand it??) would using a half inch plywood on top of the existing plywood top (try & level it) be easier??

 

[BIG MICK]

Hi all, I have a couple off quick questions, as I am planning a stand at the moment. The stand is to support a glass 6x2x2. My two questions are if planning to use 8x2 for top section can i only have 1 4x2 leg at the front ? Also is using finger jointed pine suitable ?

Any body got any suggestions? wanting to start stand build tomorrow.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

a 1 foot level isn't really long enough to check everything. A 6 footer would be better.

Since the tank has a plastic rim, you DO NOT use foam. There should be nothing between the tank and the stand.

I would pick up a longer level and double check the stand as well as the tank. Some tanks have plastic trim that isn't straight due to the silicone between the plastic and the glass. If the issue is with the tank, I would take it back and get a new one that's built correctly. If it's the stand, I would fix the top of the 2X6 frame to get it true and only then would I reinstall the plywood.

Doing it right means you only have to do it once.

yeah, cant use the foam for a plastic rim tank... but I was thinking of using it only around the plastic rim & not on the entire tank bottom..

since I already finished it, its gonna be hard to take the trim out & then try & level..

anyways, I'll get a longer level & check it out 1st... & instead of removing the plywood & trying to level the 2*6 (sand it??) would using a half inch plywood on top of the existing plywood top (try & level it) be easier??

Hi RE! See my stand above?

Why can't you use foam under the tank? Any kind of foam? styrofoam, etc.

Anyways,
I'm using my Iphone- The Free Stanley level app!

It has a bubble, but that's just for show and to be like a level.

It's digital- to the nearest 1/10th of 1 degree!

It's awesome! You don't need a level- step into the 21st century.

 

[locke_333]

Hi RE! See my stand above?

Why can't you use foam under the tank? Any kind of foam? styrofoam, etc.

Anyways,
I'm using my Iphone- The Free Stanley level app!

It has a bubble, but that's just for show and to be like a level.

It's digital- to the nearest 1/10th of 1 degree!

It's awesome! You don't need a level- step into the 21st century.

i could let RE answer but i gona give you some pointer i i've done some researh in the past ion the subject.

Foam: although i've personnally done it before, it is best to not have any because glass have a plastic trim on the bottom that serve a few purpose. first, the trim is there to absorb the small imperfection of the stand, small bump, dents and other. Second, the bottom pane of glass need to be able to bow out, that's is how glass has the strengh and not allowing to bow out will but stress on the edge where it is most fragile instead of the center. Third, foam will take the inital weigh evently but once crushed it doesn't expand back. this might leave your tank with point of higher presure along the perimeter. for example, if you bend over the tank on one of the side, the foam will tend to crush more in that area. so in the long run, the tank might be supported more on one side than the other even if it started 100% even.

as to the level, let me be Blunt, yo got to be kidding us... right? :facepalm: no hard feeling though!

here's why, you phone mesure 4,5 inches long and the only thing it will tell you ( IF ( i'd normally size the font at 1000 for this ) you really believe the app is that precise, wich i doubt ( i'm a software developper, it's funny what shortcut we take sometimes :lolspin: ) ) is that that 4.5" of stand is level. that in no way means that the whole leght of the stand is level. Example in hand, my stand and i'm using a 3ft level on a 6ft stand. if i place my level on the right side, it says i'm 99% level sitting almost completly flat againt the stand all the way, if i do the same on the left side, same thing. so you guess it's level right. NOPE, if i put my level dead in the center, it says i'm perfectly level but when you look under the level, there's a very slight gap that's is not visible in the other mesure that i will correct one i add the top cover with shims.

Really hope this help!

 

[MidwesternTexan]

i could let RE answer but i gona give you some pointer i i've done some researh in the past ion the subject.

Foam: although i've personnally done it before, it is best to not have any because glass have a plastic trim on the bottom that serve a few purpose. first, the trim is there to absorb the small imperfection of the stand, small bump, dents and other. Second, the bottom pane of glass need to be able to bow out, that's is how glass has the strengh and not allowing to bow out will but stress on the edge where it is most fragile instead of the center. Third, foam will take the inital weigh evently but once crushed it doesn't expand back. this might leave your tank with point of higher presure along the perimeter. for example, if you bend over the tank on one of the side, the foam will tend to crush more in that area. so in the long run, the tank might be supported more on one side than the other even if it started 100% even.

as to the level, let me be Blunt, yo got to be kidding us... right? :facepalm: no hard feeling though!

here's why, you phone mesure 4,5 inches long and the only thing it will tell you ( IF ( i'd normally size the font at 1000 for this ) you really believe the app is that precise, wich i doubt ( i'm a software developper, it's funny what shortcut we take sometimes :lolspin: ) ) is that that 4.5" of stand is level. that in no way means that the whole leght of the stand is level. Example in hand, my stand and i'm using a 3ft level on a 6ft stand. if i place my level on the right side, it says i'm 99% level sitting almost completly flat againt the stand all the way, if i do the same on the left side, same thing. so you guess it's level right. NOPE, if i put my level dead in the center, it says i'm perfectly level but when you look under the level, there's a very slight gap that's is not visible in the other mesure that i will correct one i add the top cover with shims.

Really hope this help!

Well it did and does, thanks.

Back to the Stanley cell phone app.Whats more accurate,
a 6ft length of still water, or your bubble level (assuming it does have a bubble)?
When I leveled it my my garage for my C2C overflow test with my Iphone-
It was dead on. I couldn't measure, or visually see anywhere it was off.

Now I know you're a software developer, and I'm not.

But you do have to calibrate the app. before you use it, and it's very simple to do as well.

I do put it on several places along the length of what Im leveling also.

Thanks,
I'll keep using my app for this.

 

[Donw]

Well it did and does, thanks.

Back to the Stanley cell phone app.Whats more accurate,
a 6ft length of still water, or your bubble level (assuming it does have a bubble)?
When I leveled it my my garage for my C2C overflow test with my Iphone-
It was dead on. I couldn't measure, or visually see anywhere it was off.

Now I know you're a software developer, and I'm not.

But you do have to calibrate the app. before you use it, and it's very simple to do as well.

I do put it on several places along the length of what Im leveling also.

Thanks,
I'll keep using my app for this.

Of course you can use the level in your I phone. The one built into ios7 works well. BUT you need to have it resting on a known straight edge. Rip a strip of plywood 6 or 8 ft long along with your phone you have a decent level. You will not get any usable reading with the phone by itself unless your stand is a foot long. To use the phone by itself it has to be on a dead flat surface.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

Of course you can use the level in your I phone. The one built into ios7 works well. BUT you need to have it resting on a known straight edge. Rip a strip of plywood 6 or 8 ft long along with your phone you have a decent level. You will not get any usable reading with the phone by itself unless your stand is a foot long. To use the phone by itself it has to be on a dead flat surface.

well, thanks again.

When I used it, then filled and flow tested my C2C overflow I built into my 180- NATURE and the WATER line told me it was level over a 6ft span- the length of my 180.
That's AFTER I leveled it dry in my garage for the test.
As far as I know, you can't level a 180 once it's full of water.

Shheeeezzzzeee.
And like I said, it has a calibration mode.

Does this 3ft level have a digital dial to the nearest 1/10th of 1 degree?
Or is it a bubble in a glass slightly bent glass tube, that YOU decide when it's level?

If it didn't pass NATURES WATER level test, I wouldn't be using it either

 

[Terefel]

All, thank you to everyone that has contributed to this extremely helpful thread. I went back about 20 pages but was unable to find an answer to my question.

I am planning on building a stand for a 40 breeder using pocket screws and 1x4s. I would like to be able to fit a narrow ato reservoir down below next to my 20L sump (30 inches wide) so I would like to widen the stand.

If the 40b is 36 inches wide, and I frame my stand to be a total width of 39 inches, only the front and back frame of my DT will be directly over the frame, but not the sides . Is this fine if I use a 3/4" ply or prefab pine board top? Or would I instead have to build more cross supports?

Such a long question for an extra measly 3 inches, but thank-you!

 

[robert s b.]

Glad, I found this thread. I am getting ready to buy a Marineland 300 Gallon DD 72L 36W 27T. I don't want to buy the stock stand since it is to short and I want to make a stand that is 36 Tall, stock one is only 29. I have contacted Marineland and they have told me in order for me to get Life time warranty on their tanks, I need to submit the plans for the stand for review to issue life time warranty. I have done the search on this thread but cant find any sketches and exact measurement for the 300DD. I'm not very good with plans and sketches. Would be great if someone can lend me a hand and pm it to me.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[robert s b.]

Glad, I found this thread. I am getting ready to buy a Marineland 300 Gallon DD 72L 36W 27T. I don't want to buy the stock stand since it is to short and I want to make a stand that is 36 Tall, stock one is only 29. I have contacted Marineland and they have told me in order for me to get Life time warranty on their tanks, I need to submit the plans for the stand for review to issue life time warranty. I have done the search on this thread but cant find any sketches and exact measurement for the 300DD. I'm not very good with plans and sketches. Would be great if someone can lend me a hand and pm it to me.

Thanks in advance!!

I figured it out, but what I want to know is. would I need to do a center brace, support beams for a 300 Gallon tank?

 

[OzarkMullet]

Great thread. I made stands for an Aqueon 55g and Marineland 150XH. Both tanks have the plastic frames on top and bottom and it's my understanding that the load bearing support is in the outer frame. Because of the 48" width, I thought it might be good to have two cross supports in the top and bottom sections of the stand, instead of just one. My concern now is with the fact that the plastic frame on both tanks have a center cross support that is not supported by the stands that I built. Is that good or bad? Does anyone know if the Marineland factory 48x24 stands have a center cross support that touches the plastic frames? If there is no structural requirement to put a plywood top on the stand, I'd prefer not to and I'll skin the outside of the stand for added strength. I'm attaching a photo of the 55g on the stand I made to show the cross support described above.

 

[georgec]

Hi all,

Just picked up an acrylic tank 36x15x16 (truvu 40) and working on designing the stand. I thought I read somewhere prior in this thread that for a tank this length and size 1x4s would suffice, bu can't seem to find it (search turns up a lot of 1x4 door frames)

Can I use 1x4s for the overall stand?

I know using 1x5 or 1x6 for the top horizontal support pieces would provide more strength, but would that be overkill?

I'll be skinning the sides and back with 1/2" ply, but probably putting just doors on the front, as well as 3/4 ply for the top.

Thanks in advance.

GC

 

[RocketEngineer]

Hi all,

Just picked up an acrylic tank 36x15x16 (truvu 40) and working on designing the stand. I thought I read somewhere prior in this thread that for a tank this length and size 1x4s would suffice, bu can't seem to find it (search turns up a lot of 1x4 door frames)

Can I use 1x4s for the overall stand?

I know using 1x5 or 1x6 for the top horizontal support pieces would provide more strength, but would that be overkill?

I'll be skinning the sides and back with 1/2" ply, but probably putting just doors on the front, as well as 3/4 ply for the top.

Thanks in advance.

GC

A 1X4 frame would be fine for a tank that size.

 

[OzarkMullet]

Great thread. I made stands for an Aqueon 55g and Marineland 150XH. Both tanks have the plastic frames on top and bottom and it's my understanding that the load bearing support is in the outer frame. Because of the 48" width, I thought it might be good to have two cross supports in the top and bottom sections of the stand, instead of just one. My concern now is with the fact that the plastic frame on both tanks have a center cross support that is not supported by the stands that I built. Is that good or bad? Does anyone know if the Marineland factory 48x24 stands have a center cross support that touches the plastic frames? If there is no structural requirement to put a plywood top on the stand, I'd prefer not to and I'll skin the outside of the stand for added strength. I'm attaching a photo of the 55g on the stand I made to show the cross support described above.

Bump...