RocketEngineer
Space is big.
"YOU'RE A YOUNG MAN, DON'T DO IT!" - Private Ryan
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
"YOU'RE A YOUNG MAN, DON'T DO IT!" - Private Ryan
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Rocketengineer, what do you think? 40 inch tall made of a 2x8 top w no center brace. My new 72x28x28 tank arrives tomorrow.
I think you have a lot of painting left :fun4:. Otherwise, looks good.
dangros
New member
I started mine at 36" but quickly realized it would b a pain to clean. Especially with my 90g. It's difficult to reach over the top c I'm over 5'10" tall and have long monkey arms. I cut it down to 32" and redid the stand.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
I just did flat moldings that stepped down in thickness:
Overall:
Closer view:
The corner pieces were 1/2" thick and the pieces between the corners was 3/8" thick. I had the moldings custom planed to thickness but nothing says you can't use stock boards to achieve the same look.
In your case the "top" could be a board surrounding the tank frame and then the under pieces I'd just brad nail into the faces.
Overall:
Closer view:
The corner pieces were 1/2" thick and the pieces between the corners was 3/8" thick. I had the moldings custom planed to thickness but nothing says you can't use stock boards to achieve the same look.
In your case the "top" could be a board surrounding the tank frame and then the under pieces I'd just brad nail into the faces.
Yep, I'm thinking about trimming it down to 32 as well. If i did that, woudl give me 8" of space to get in and work. .
at 40" my tank top is at 64. Canopy top 72.
at 36" my tank top is at 60. Canopy top 68.
at 32" my tank top is at 56. Canopy top 64.
Tradewinds
Well-known member
I just did flat moldings that stepped down in thickness:
Overall:
Closer view:
The corner pieces were 1/2" thick and the pieces between the corners was 3/8" thick. I had the moldings custom planed to thickness but nothing says you can't use stock boards to achieve the same look.
In your case the "top" could be a board surrounding the tank frame and then the under pieces I'd just brad nail into the faces.
Damn that looks nice!
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Here it is w trim and first coat of final color.
That looks pretty good. What are you planning for doors?
Do you look at the tank sitting down or standing up? I'm typically standing so I made mine 36" and with a 40B sump I barely have enough room to get the skimmer cup out. If I ever upgrade to a bigger tank I'm tempted to push 40" for the stand and just get a chair so I can reach.
Thanks. After four years the only real damage is a couple screws in the sump area rusting through the paint and dings in the top where I dropped the hood panels. The outside still looks good (once I wipe off the dust and salt drips).
rillaboratories
New member
Is there a rule of thumb of using wood screws or if I should just frame it with nails?
Started skinning my stand tonight. Got 3/4 oak plywood for the top and bottom. 1/4" oak for the back, and sides...and there lies a question.
First the pictures.
My question:
If I want to make 2 doors for the front, given that I have no middle brace, what's the best way to do this? Also, I have a sheet of 1/4" plywood that I had intended to use to skin the front, but, would I be better served going and getting 1/2"? I do have a bunch of 3/4" that I can use, including 2 pieces that are almost absolutely perfect for doors.
I'm not overly handy with wood, or wood working, but I'm always willing to learn.
First the pictures.
My question:
If I want to make 2 doors for the front, given that I have no middle brace, what's the best way to do this? Also, I have a sheet of 1/4" plywood that I had intended to use to skin the front, but, would I be better served going and getting 1/2"? I do have a bunch of 3/4" that I can use, including 2 pieces that are almost absolutely perfect for doors.
I'm not overly handy with wood, or wood working, but I'm always willing to learn.
any advice on if I should use the 1/4" plywood to wrap the front and sides, or should i use 1/2"?
Biggest thing is the doors...with 1/4" ply would be kind of flimsy. I have 3/4" on the top, but IMO 3/4" on sides and front is unnecessary.
No real history in working with wood like this, so I'm stumped.
Biggest thing is the doors...with 1/4" ply would be kind of flimsy. I have 3/4" on the top, but IMO 3/4" on sides and front is unnecessary.
No real history in working with wood like this, so I'm stumped.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
I would use 1/2" plywood. The panels on my hood are made using 1X3s surrounding a 1/2" panel. The panel is held with biscuits while the frame is attached to itself with pocket screws. The same technique could work for making your doors.
i'm good up to the 1/2" plywood part. after that, the term way over my head came to mind.
tools I have available: Miter Saw, Jig Saw, Circular saw.
that's it
I am thinking about inset doors connected with magnets, and a middle brace (aesthetics basically) also connected via magnets so I can remove it if i need to remove the sump.
and I just saw that lowes does not have 1/2" x 4' x 8' panels. biggest they have is 1/2" x 4 x 4. I have this sick feeling it's either 1/4 or 3/4 plywood, which makes this heavy stand even more heavy.
tools I have available: Miter Saw, Jig Saw, Circular saw.
that's it
I am thinking about inset doors connected with magnets, and a middle brace (aesthetics basically) also connected via magnets so I can remove it if i need to remove the sump.
and I just saw that lowes does not have 1/2" x 4' x 8' panels. biggest they have is 1/2" x 4 x 4. I have this sick feeling it's either 1/4 or 3/4 plywood, which makes this heavy stand even more heavy.
