DSPS tank from Thailand (1000 gallon+)

Thanks Mr. Wilson. I have looked at them and debating them but wasn't sure.

Ching,

Here is some food for thought on the topic of UV. People talk about the impact on ths pod population and the use of sponges. If you push the water thru the UV faster it will not be strong enough to kill something like pods but if should something find its way into your tank you can easily adjust the speed of DC pump to slow down the flow in the UV and up the UV dosage to kill unwanted parasites.

Joe
 
Sean, if you are already using ozone, is there any tangible benifit to also using any form of UV sterilization

There are four forms of filtration available to us: Mechanical, biological, chemical & disinfection. UV irradiation and ozonation are both forms of disinfection, but can be used tother just as one would use a protein skimmer and filter sock/bag for mechanical filtration.

Ozone is often used sporadically on a timer and or ORP controller. UV on the other hand can run 24/7. Ozone can alter salts and convert bromide into bromine. This acts as a strong oxidant that can harm the display tank residents. UV sterilizers have no residual affect on the the display tank. You only kill the organisms that travel through the UV sterilizer.

UV is considered to be the "safe" method of disinfection, while Ozone is considered to be the "effective" method. In my opinion, the two compliment each other.

Plankton does not pass through a UV sterilizer to ay great extent, and if it should go down that road, it will make it through unscathed. Copepods, amphipods, mysids and isopods for that matter, stay in the substrate and even when they venture out at night for a swim, they are able to stay clear of pump intakes. There is a common myth that your refugium will feed your tank, but it can oly do so if you shake the algae culture out in the display tank manually.

Medicating the food with metronidazole and or chloroquine is the only effective method of treating ich in a reef tank without harming the inverts. There may be some measured success in feeding the fish garlic, ginger & onion, but it sounds more like the start of a delicious tom yum recipe :)
 
Thanks a lot Mr. Wilson for that great explanation and info regarding the pump.
Would definately help many to make the right pump choice.
Definately on my list of future pump upgrade.
 
I believe Mr. Wilson got confused with with power factor and amps;) The power factor of the Askoll is .31 in which the lower the PF the less it is using electricity efficiently. The Askoll uses 1.2 amps.




The aquarium pump industry has been very slow to update technology. Little Giant and Iwaki pumps are pretty much the same as they were 25 years ago. Somewhere along the way, we took a step backwards and started using direct drive (shaft coupled) pumps. While some models use the finest silicon carbide bearings, they still only last three years. When they fail it could mean a noisy pump, diminished efficiency, or a flood :hmm1:

Modern DC pumps use six pole motors, which is a fancy way of saying there are more drive magnets. Many AC pumps use only two poles and can spin backwards and click on startup. Some powerheads need a poke with a screwdriver to start up.

Brushless DC pumps eliminate the wear parts you get with AC pumps that need to be changed about every ten years. AC pumps that are not submersible use noisy fans that wear, attract dust, and collect salt creep. If you spill saltwater on an internal DC pump, you don't have to worry about electrical shock, corrosion, or failure as you would with an external AC pump.

DC pumps feature a soft on/off, so bearings last longer and on/off sequences are quiet. This comes in handy with wave devices and speed control sequences. There is also no jolt to your GFCI when the pump(s) come on.

The operating temperature of DC pumps is also quieter and the pump runs a lot cooler. I tested the power factor of a DC pump vs. an Askoll of the same size and the DC was 0.6 and the Askoll was 1.2, so efficiency of DC is higher. Cool running pumps means that calcium will not fall out of solution and bond to metallic pump parts. Some DC pumps, like the Waveline use ceramic bearings and shafts.

One of the benefits of DC power is it is easy to control speed with a 0-10v controller. This gives you the wave sequences you see with DC Vortech & Tunze prop pumps. Battery backup is also easier to configure, and in the future solar and wind power can be incorporated easily.

There are some benefits to DC pumps regarding technical details, namely sign waves, that I myself don't fully understand, but it appears that DC power is more "stable" to over simplify the matter.

DC pumps are smaller as well. I have replaced some spa pumps that were easily 4 times bigger, 4 times heavier, and used 13 times more energy to get the job done (980w vs. 75w). I did a test with an AC pump to see if the power consumption would drop if I closed the valve part way. Pump manufacturers have always boasted that their pumps will draw less power when valved down. Well they turned out to be correct. The AC pump I tested used 980w fully open; when I shut the valve half way (45˚), the pump output was cut in half, but the power consumption only dropped to 930w :) A negligible savings.

There is an interesting power/flow curve with DC pumps. When the DC pump is powered down with 0-10v speed control, it uses only 1/3 of the full power while set at 50%. In other words, they tend to run more efficiently when run at lower RPMs. In practical terms, Nineball has 5 x 400w DC pumps for his closed loop and return pump. Each pump runs at 400w while at full power. We use a speed controller to govern each pump speed independently as it goes through wave sequences. The full max power consumption potential is 2000w, but we run at an average of 800w during the day and they all slow down at night. Each pump is set to run between 60-90% of the max power with 10-60 second variable intervals.

Running wave sequences and pulses with any pumps is a great way to save energy and get better flow results. Until the AC pump manufacturers catch up, DC pumps are the way to go.

Closed loop vs. internal prop pump is a whole other debate that I will keep out of Chingchai's thread :)
 
I believe Mr. Wilson got confused with with power factor and amps;) The power factor of the Askoll is .31 in which the lower the PF the less it is using electricity efficiently. The Askoll uses 1.2 amps.

I stand corrected. We were using Ksed's watt meter so he should know. Thanks Kevin.
 
Ching, I want to say I'm a MASSIVE fan of your system, it is a work of art in all aspects, when people ask me about reef keeping, I instantly show them your videos on youtube.

I want to wish you continued success in life, as well as your amazing tank.

That said, wanted to share a link with you that you may get a kick out of...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20823798#post20823798

Thank you for sharing your work of art with us, you are by far the most insane person on here, but you built a work of art.

~Rich
 
Ching, I want to say I'm a MASSIVE fan of your system, it is a work of art in all aspects, when people ask me about reef keeping, I instantly show them your videos on youtube.

I want to wish you continued success in life, as well as your amazing tank.

That said, wanted to share a link with you that you may get a kick out of...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20823798#post20823798

Thank you for sharing your work of art with us, you are by far the most insane person on here, but you built a work of art.

~Rich

Rich. Thank you so much for your kind words.
Please send my best regards to your wife.
 
newrock.jpg

Finally, a big change in my tank.
I can't bear with the outbreak of majano anemones.
So I will remove all my live rock and replace with these fake rock. (made with fiberglass)
Pest free, good shape and not so expensive. I will treat it for two months before putting in my tank.
All credit has to go to Paul (Last Version). He is the one who design this.
 
I'm sure you will be able to make the fibreglass rock work, but I have never had any success with it. It has no cites for biofilms and tends to attract diatoms & other nuisance algae.

I prefer to use concrete-based rock (aragocrete). For Large tanks I use a styrofoam or limestone base and spray gunite on top (portland, coral sand, silica fume). Some fibreglass strands provide strength for large structures.

For small tanks I use Real Reef man made rock. They paint it to look like coraline algae then store it in saltwater tanks for 3 months. It is very convincing and gives you the pore matrix of real live rock. The chemical composition is the same as well.

Reef parasites tend to come with the coral hosts, and not the rock itself. I would consider removing all of the corals and bleaching the tank. Then inspect every coral very carefully before you put them back in.

If it is only majano, then I would keep trying butterflies and filefish. If you are ready for a change, then go ahead with your major renovations, I'm sure it will be even better this time.
 
Mr. Wilson have you thought about having LED lights for you tank?

If you did what brand would you get?

I had MH which takes a lot of energy and produce a lot of heat.
 
That is very cool looking but I share Sean's concerns that the fiberglass will become fowled rather than a natural part of the reef structure

my frag rack has that same issue as it will not allow a natural succession of populations

I never though of making a cement type frag rack but am putting one on the drawing board now :)
 
I'm sure you will be able to make the fibreglass rock work, but I have never had any success with it. It has no cites for biofilms and tends to attract diatoms & other nuisance algae.

I prefer to use concrete-based rock (aragocrete). For Large tanks I use a styrofoam or limestone base and spray gunite on top (portland, coral sand, silica fume). Some fibreglass strands provide strength for large structures.

For small tanks I use Real Reef man made rock. They paint it to look like coraline algae then store it in saltwater tanks for 3 months. It is very convincing and gives you the pore matrix of real live rock. The chemical composition is the same as well.

Reef parasites tend to come with the coral hosts, and not the rock itself. I would consider removing all of the corals and bleaching the tank. Then inspect every coral very carefully before you put them back in.

If it is only majano, then I would keep trying butterflies and filefish. If you are ready for a change, then go ahead with your major renovations, I'm sure it will be even better this time.

Changchai. For what it is worth to you, I concur with Mr. Wilson 100% in regards to rethinking the fiberglass reefscape/structure as well as advocating attempting butterflies, specifically the Chelmon muelleri species I recommended to you a few months back, LONG before changing your Live Rock out for this fiberglass structure.

What you are proposing to do is a major, drastic change and will DECREASE BIODIVERSITY by likely upwards of 50% ! Not to mention the serious shock/stress to the corals from yet another total reconstruction within the past few months.

I completely understand the feeling to want to try something new and exciting, by using the fiberglass structures as a major change in your system, but I for one do not want anything in your system to change for the negative, let alone a MAJOR negative change.

Chingchai, I implore you to source 3-5 Chelmon muelleri and keep them in the display for 6 months, while performing an extended curing process on the fiberglass structures ... If, at the end of that six month timeframe, you are still unsatisfied with the amount/density of Majano Anemones then that would be a more ideal point to attempt your fiberglass structure experiment.

Seriously consider the aforementioned proposal, Chingchai. I feel strongly that after a few months it will make you seriously reconsider the fiberglass structures.

All the Best,
 
To add to the C. muelleri suggestion ... If hopefully you do decide to take me up on my proposal ...

I would recommend you to get them eating Mysis, soaked in Selcon dietary supplement, regularly and then "starve" them for a couple days, while taking a couple Majanoes from the display and feeding those the Selcon soaked Mysis. Once the Majanoes have consumed the Mysis place them in the QT with the C. muelleri and this should/will help train them to decimate your Majano population once comfortably in the Display :)
 
Chingchai, these rock structures look really nice but I am also worried about the possible negative consequenses of such a a major drop in biodiversity. While curing the structures I would definitely consider the advices above and see if you possibly can cure this problem with some butterflies like the C. muelleri...
 
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