nanoreefbro
New member
Wow that is very nice work. What kind of wood did you use?
Englishrebel's 260 Gallon System Build
- Thread starter EnglishRebel
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EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Thanks nanoreebro. Both the dressing table and the tank stand are mahogany. I like working with it as it machines well and is very stable (doesn't twist of warp much).
EnglishRebel
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Well there have been a few changes and developments since my last update. The tank at Aquarium Obsessed will be finished next Tuesday (I'm waiting on the latest photos). So I should be getting it in about a week or so. :thumbsup:
I ordered a 40 gallon long glass tank for an additional fuge from a LFS and it should be in on Wednesday. I called around all the glass stores in town to see if they would drill a 1-3/4" hole for a bulkhead -- no can do.
So in desperation I called the LFS from whom I ordered my tank to see if they knew of anyone who could do it. "We can" was the response. Thanks to The Aquarium Center of NC in Kernersville. :thumbsup: It should be ready for pick up on Thursday.
The only problem is the location. I was planning on putting it under the shelf that holds my other fuge and QT tank here.
I was going to add a bulkhead to the LifeReef sump just above the operating water level. A submersible pump in the new fuge would pump water back to the sump, raising the water level above the new bulkhead and thus allowing water to circulate back to the fuge. I was laying in bed one morning thinking about this and realized that if I did this, the water level in the sump would never go down because the pump in the fuge would always keep it topped up to the level of the bulkhead. This meant that any evaporation would lower the water level in the fuge and my auto top off system would not work as it's connected to the sump.
Time for some re-engineering.
What I decided to do was extend the shelf that the sump sits on.
The new fuge would sit on this shelf at the same elevation as the sump. Water to this fuge would come from my existing fuge sitting right above it. I would remove this overflow box.
and pipe the discharge down into the new fuge from where this blue hose connects to by adding an elbow and pipe.
The overflow from the new fuge would be piped to the sump where the existing fuge connects (the right hand bulkhead).
I will post more photos when it's set up.
Oh, and one more thing. After reading Toms thread (GlassReef), GlassReef I decided to go the dosing method (Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium) instead of a calcium reactor So I ordered on of these. Dosing Pump
I really want to get this additional fuge set up by next week so I can transfer the rock from my QT tank and move the little yellow tailed Damsel to the other fuge. I can then set up the QT tank as, well, a QT tank. My daughter and my 5 year old granddaughter are coming over from England for ten days starting April first and I really want to be able to take her to the LFS to pick out a couple of clown fish. She will get a kick out of that.
I ordered a 40 gallon long glass tank for an additional fuge from a LFS and it should be in on Wednesday. I called around all the glass stores in town to see if they would drill a 1-3/4" hole for a bulkhead -- no can do.
So in desperation I called the LFS from whom I ordered my tank to see if they knew of anyone who could do it. "We can" was the response. Thanks to The Aquarium Center of NC in Kernersville. :thumbsup: It should be ready for pick up on Thursday.The only problem is the location. I was planning on putting it under the shelf that holds my other fuge and QT tank here.
I was going to add a bulkhead to the LifeReef sump just above the operating water level. A submersible pump in the new fuge would pump water back to the sump, raising the water level above the new bulkhead and thus allowing water to circulate back to the fuge. I was laying in bed one morning thinking about this and realized that if I did this, the water level in the sump would never go down because the pump in the fuge would always keep it topped up to the level of the bulkhead. This meant that any evaporation would lower the water level in the fuge and my auto top off system would not work as it's connected to the sump.
Time for some re-engineering.
What I decided to do was extend the shelf that the sump sits on.
The new fuge would sit on this shelf at the same elevation as the sump. Water to this fuge would come from my existing fuge sitting right above it. I would remove this overflow box.
and pipe the discharge down into the new fuge from where this blue hose connects to by adding an elbow and pipe.
The overflow from the new fuge would be piped to the sump where the existing fuge connects (the right hand bulkhead).
I will post more photos when it's set up.
Oh, and one more thing. After reading Toms thread (GlassReef), GlassReef I decided to go the dosing method (Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium) instead of a calcium reactor So I ordered on of these. Dosing Pump
I really want to get this additional fuge set up by next week so I can transfer the rock from my QT tank and move the little yellow tailed Damsel to the other fuge. I can then set up the QT tank as, well, a QT tank. My daughter and my 5 year old granddaughter are coming over from England for ten days starting April first and I really want to be able to take her to the LFS to pick out a couple of clown fish. She will get a kick out of that.
Last edited:
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
STAND UPDATE
STAND UPDATE
Well last week I ran out of mahogany, so a trip to the local hardwood shop go me enough to finish the bottom trim. Here's the baseboard.
And a shot of the whole stand.
All I have to do is make up the trim that goes around the tank to hide the foam and bottom glass, get my wife to give here blessing on the stain color, stain the wood and put on three coats of poly and it's done. :thumbsup: Should be ready when the tank arrives.
STAND UPDATE
Well last week I ran out of mahogany, so a trip to the local hardwood shop go me enough to finish the bottom trim. Here's the baseboard.
And a shot of the whole stand.
All I have to do is make up the trim that goes around the tank to hide the foam and bottom glass, get my wife to give here blessing on the stain color, stain the wood and put on three coats of poly and it's done. :thumbsup: Should be ready when the tank arrives.
slapshot16
New member
Are pix posted or is there some kind of error on my end?
Great build btw!
Great build btw!
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Thanks Slapshot16. The pictures embedded in the post show up on my computer okay. Must be a problem at your end.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
TANK UPDATE
TANK UPDATE
My tank is shipping next Wednesday and I've been told by Aquarium Obsessed that it should be here either Friday March 27th or the following Monday. WOOHOO.
What Schedule 40 bulkheads would you guys recommend?
Here are some final assembly photos.
No all I need to do is get the stand stained and finish it with two or three coats of polyurethane.
TANK UPDATE
My tank is shipping next Wednesday and I've been told by Aquarium Obsessed that it should be here either Friday March 27th or the following Monday. WOOHOO.
What Schedule 40 bulkheads would you guys recommend?
Here are some final assembly photos.
No all I need to do is get the stand stained and finish it with two or three coats of polyurethane.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Ralph
I'll have to get back to you on that as I wasn't driving.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Bax
I'm confused with the Hayward bulkheads. Some say that they need a 2-5/8" hole and some a 2-3/8" hole. My tank is drilled 2-1/2". They are quite expensive at $20 each from BRS.
Thanks for the complement on the stand. Just wait till it's stained.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14654421#post14654421 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
That is going to be a super tank, Alan! They do great work. Can't wait to see your stand when it's finished. If the table is any indication, it'll be something very special.
Thanks Tom. I should start the finish next week so will post pics. Right now the tank surround front piece has warped (unusual for mahogany) so I will need to get some more stock (or use cherry as I'm using a cherry stain).
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Tom
Im assuming that's for a Schedule 40. What's the advantage of a Hayward over a regular bulkhead?
Bax
I have 2-1/2" diameter holes. I could use the regular $8-$10 bulkhead but is it better to go with the Haywards at $20. That would be $120 just in bulkheads. :eek2: Four of the bulkheads will be for the gravity return to the sump so not much pressure. The middle two I was thinking of using for my return lines. I would reduce both with 1-1/2"-1" bushings. One 1" line would come up and over the weir and then down the back of the tank to about 6"-8" of the bottom and then tee off to two 3/4" locklines that would blow along the back of the tank. The second 1" line would tee off to two 1" locklines which would go over the weir and point toward the front of the tank. I will have my two Vortech v40s on either side of the overflow box on the back glass -- one up toward the top and one toward the bottom. These would provide a circulating current around the tank at two different levels.
What do you guys think? If you have any suggestions on the choice of bulkheads or return pipe configurations please chime in.
Thanks
Alan:
There is no measureaable advantage in using the Hayward bulkheads - or any schedule 80 fittings in an aquarium application. We do no deal with stresses or pressures that come anywhere in the rage of the requirements for schedule 80. It would be a waste of your money. (Less plastic = more corals and fish HA!)
Several websites offer the information on bulkhead hole sizing (for sch. 40) http://jehmco.com/html/bulkhead_fittings.html is a good one.
T
There is no measureaable advantage in using the Hayward bulkheads - or any schedule 80 fittings in an aquarium application. We do no deal with stresses or pressures that come anywhere in the rage of the requirements for schedule 80. It would be a waste of your money. (Less plastic = more corals and fish HA!)
Several websites offer the information on bulkhead hole sizing (for sch. 40) http://jehmco.com/html/bulkhead_fittings.html is a good one.
T
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
T2
I was sort of leaning that way. I wasn't contemplating schedule 80 -- just schedule 40. Hayward bulkheads seem to be better, but not really necessary.
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