Englishrebel's 260 Gallon System Build

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IDK, I guess personal preference comes into play. On smaller tanks I have used the "standard" black BHs. Usually because they came with them or I had extras from other purchases. But, when I buy a BH I get scd 80, and definitly on the 375, I am going with scd 80 for a little more peace of mind.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14662097#post14662097 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bax
IDK, I guess personal preference comes into play. On smaller tanks I have used the "standard" black BHs. Usually because they came with them or I had extras from other purchases. But, when I buy a BH I get scd 80, and definitly on the 375, I am going with scd 80 for a little more peace of mind.

You're probably right but I didn't think about that when I ordered the tank and had it drilled for schedule 40 (2-1/2" holes).
 
I understand Alan-
Bax, not questioning the need for peace of mind in dealing with large volumes of water (i.e.- beautiful in the tank, but really ugly on the floor <G>) But I have been running a 360 gal. tank using the rainbow plastics common black BHs for a decade now. And at first, it did concern me.
But when you run the numbers, on the actual pressures we us in aquariums, there is no physical advantage w/sch 80. Further - the ability to get many tank builders to drill the size needed for what they consider "odd size" is not an easy task.
But again- we all have things that we "need" to make us feel safe in the night.
Me...I trust my S&W to make me feel safe<G>.............
T
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14658328#post14658328 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
Tom
Im assuming that's for a Schedule 40. What's the advantage of a Hayward over a regular bulkhead?
The 2-3/8" dia. is needed for Sched-80. As to the advantages of 80 over 40 - most of mine are being used in my overflow where they are attached to very long exposed pipes along the back of the aquarium. I held a Sched-80 in my hand and then a Sched-40, then I thought about which one I want to have to hold up to the possible stresses for a number of years. Logic tells me - makes no difference. The little guy deep in my gut says "don't skimp now". Obviously, just my personal opinion.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14665002#post14665002 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
The 2-3/8" dia. is needed for Sched-80. As to the advantages of 80 over 40 - most of mine are being used in my overflow where they are attached to very long exposed pipes along the back of the aquarium. I held a Sched-80 in my hand and then a Sched-40, then I thought about which one I want to have to hold up to the possible stresses for a number of years. Logic tells me - makes no difference. The little guy deep in my gut says "don't skimp now". Obviously, just my personal opinion.
I understand where you're coming from Tom. I will have a hose barb screwed directly into the bulkheads and then very flexible hose so there will not be much stress so I feed okay about using schedule 40. I think I'm going with Savko.
 
STAND UPDATE

STAND UPDATE

Well I was busy this weekend. My interior decorator (aka wife :p ) approved the stain from three samples I made up, so Traditional Cherry it is.
I used a gel stain and brushed on in the crevices and used a rag on the rest. I like the gel stain because you can even out the light and dark mahogany to get a uniform finish. Here're a couple of photos.

STAIN2.jpg


STAIN1.jpg


Tomorrow I will brush on two or three coats of gloss poly.

I started to make up the "shelf" that goes around the tank to hide the foam and glass. However as the bottom glass is 3/4" and Aquarium Obsessed added Euro bracing around the bottom at my request I will have to wait and see if they used 3/4" or 1/2". Whichever it is I will have either 2-1/4" (1/2" foam + two layers of 3/4" glass + 1/4" Starboard) or 2" (1/2" foam + 3/4" and 1/2" glass + 1/4" Starboard) to hide. As the "shelf" stock is only 1" thick I have two choices:
  1. Double up on the shelf stock
    or
  2. add a 1" or 1-1/4" thin black acrylic wide band around the bottom
    [/list=1]
    I will have to think about that. Here's a shot of the left hand "shelf".

    corner.jpg


    Also, here's a shot of my latest coral -- a Cats Paw (sorry about the quality).

    CatsPaw.jpg
 
That is classy, classy, classy!! Beautiful job. Really like the color. I'm not a dark Mahogany kinda guy.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14665415#post14665415 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
That is classy, classy, classy!! Beautiful job. Really like the color. I'm not a dark Mahogany kinda guy.

Thanks a lot Tom. We have a cherry armoire (our old entertainment center) in the same room as well as a couple of other cherry pieces so a dark mahogany was out of the question -- well according to my wife (in the words of Rumpole of the Bailey, a BBC program "She who must be obeyed". :p ). When I get a few coats of poly on, it should look even better.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14665529#post14665529 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RGibson
Alan were did you buy the live rock for your tank?
Ralph

Ralph
I got about 25 lbs. from Aquamains. I have about 140 lbs. of Eco Rox from Bulk Reef Supply Eco Rox . In the four weeks or so it's been in my fuge and QT tanks it's coloring up nicely and has a lot of sponges sprouting out. Really good value if you can afford to wait for it to seed from your LR.
 
Looks great. What kind of stain and poly you using. I just recently built a picture frame and stained it with some HD stain and was thinking about using some wax or gloss something.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14670417#post14670417 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erics3000
Looks great. What kind of stain and poly you using. I just recently built a picture frame and stained it with some HD stain and was thinking about using some wax or gloss something.

Eric
It's Varathane wipe on gel stain. I'm going with Varathane water based gloss polyurethane finish.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14670837#post14670837 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DVNO
love the wood stain u have

DVNO
Thanks (and I still haven't figured out your sig).
On and BTW if it hasn't been said before....

<img src="/images/welcome.gif" width="500" height="62"><br><b><i><big><big>To Reef Central DVNO</b></i></big></big>
 
Well, I had a busy morning. Got a coat of oil based gloss polyurethane on the stand. Will wait till tomorrow to lightly sand and put on a second coat. My Profilux dosing pump arrived so I played with that for a while. Isn't this hobby great for toys? :p :p
I decided to double up on the "shelf" that will surround the tank as I think this will add some "bulk" to the top to balance out the rather heavy baseboard.
Here's the top:

corner.jpg


and here's the base:

BASEBOARD.jpg


It'll look sort of like our kitchen island here.

KITCHENISLAND.jpg
 
Alan, your wood working skills really are incredibly impressive. The attention to detail is second to none. I hope you don't mind if I steal some of your ideas when I build my stand.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14674946#post14674946 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by plyr58
Alan, your wood working skills really are incredibly impressive. The attention to detail is second to none. I hope you don't mind if I steal some of your ideas when I build my stand.
Thanks Drew. Make sure you don't scratch it when installing the tank. :p
No problem on help with your stand. Let me know what you need.

BTW I got a Hanna portable PH/Temp probe and it didn't agree with my RKE. I just re-calibrated my RKE PH probe and my PH is 7.68. :eek: Way too low. I may get some pickling lime and dose some Kalwasser. How much lime do you use to make up Kalwasser? All other params are okay.
Hardness: 11.5dKh
Calcium: 460
Magnesium: 1430
 
About two heaping tablespoons per gallon Alan. Mix it for a few minutes and let it settle. Then use the supernatant. Try to avoid getting the solid powder into the tank as it may cause the pH to climb too high.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14681017#post14681017 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
About two heaping tablespoons per gallon Alan. Mix it for a few minutes and let it settle. Then use the supernatant. Try to avoid getting the solid powder into the tank as it may cause the pH to climb too high.

Thanks Tom -- any pickling lime from the grocery store be okay? Haven't seen you post for a while -- just been lurking hey? :p Did the cable guys finally break camp in your woods? :p

BTW I decided to go the two part dosing (Balling Lite) instead of a calcium reactor. This new toy was too much to resist (and much sexier than an acrylic tube and a CO2 cylinder). :lol: Profilux
 
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How is the ventilation around the tank Alan? Does it get any outside air exchange? Often high room CO<sub>2</sub> levels are the cause of low tank pH. A tight room is great to conserve heat but can play havoc with a tank's air exchange that controls pH.

You going to make your own Randy's Two Part Homemade or buy premixed?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14681271#post14681271 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
How is the ventilation around the tank Alan? Does it get any outside air exchange? Often high room CO<sub>2</sub> levels are the cause of low tank pH. A tight room is great to conserve heat but can play havoc with a tank's air exchange that controls pH.

You going to make your own Randy's Two Part Homemade or buy premixed?
Tom
The fuge and sump are in the basement equipment room (tank's due here on Friday/Monday). The room is ventilated with a heat recovery unit. I put a hose on the skimmer intake this morning and poked it out of the window. PH is now up from 7.6 to 7.71 (in about three hours). Still too low though. Do you think it will take some time to bring it up if CO2 is the problem?

I will start off with the three part from Bulk Reef Supply Two Part Kit
My hardness, Calcium, and Magnesium are in the high range right now as I only have three small corals in the fuge so the demand is low. I will dose with Kalwasser right now to bring the PH up and set up the dosing later when the demand is there.
 
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