The sculpin
New member
Why does only one fish have spots?
Ginger works with ich... Every time I use it
- Thread starter tang named junkyard
- Start date
- Status
The sculpin
New member
And why did the spots disappear for approx 18 months? Also I have a royal gramma that was covered up every morning, looked like he was salted, rubbed on rocks so much he wore his tail to a nub! Now he has been fine for almost two years, he is in the same tank as the flame angle and show no sign of infection. I know it's in there.
so a little bit of ammonia is good for the fish ? makes it stronger ? or makes it appreciate its new home with no ammonia more ?
Ammonia burns fish's gill.
no point in 3 hour acclimation anyways. does no good.[and builds up even more ammonia]
understood.
i'm just saying, in the case of a "lfs fish" the damage done by any ammonia build up over a period of a couple hours of dripping *might* not be as bad as a quick salinity adjust from 20 to 25. if i buy a fish, generally the lfs always uses a good amount of water (like 4+ cups for a small fish). put this in a 5g bucket on a decent drip and after two hours your looking at 3G of water. that will raise 20 water to 24 , then fish goes to tank at 25. i can't imagine (although i didn't test it) that ammonia was elevated *much* in that case.
if you were doing hypo, there would be no reason to go slow.
also-i have always been told fish have a harder time adjusting from low to higher salinity than higher to lower salinity.
it's what i've been told anyway...
all that being said- the last fish (before last night) i bought from the lfs i was cutting the bag open (puffed up full of 02) and when i cut it, the bag deflated and slipped out of my hands. it dumped out into my kitchen sink which had dirty dishes in it. i had to move plates, scoop up the fish with a tablespoon (clean from my drawer!) and dump them directly in the tank. they are both still with me after over a year and made it through my tank transfer.
i call it my "sink/spoon" acclimation process :spin3:
true story
troubadour11
Member
This is pretty interesting stuff. I just read through the entire thing. I'm looking forward to hearing how some of the hobby experiments go... with the hope that it might lead to some scientific studies down the road!
I just QT'd my 1st fish. It's been in there about 2 weeks now and is active and eating well. I've been reading into treatments and diseases more lately while studying it in the quarantine.
But a really interesting read and I'll be tagging along to hear any outcomes of the experiments. :beer:
I just QT'd my 1st fish. It's been in there about 2 weeks now and is active and eating well. I've been reading into treatments and diseases more lately while studying it in the quarantine.
But a really interesting read and I'll be tagging along to hear any outcomes of the experiments. :beer:
Khemul
New member
Typically this is backwards of how the hobby works. Scientific studies are done first, then people start experimenting on their tank (often without a concern for what the scientific studies concluded in the first place) after hearing about it.
dkeller_nc
New member
I would challenge that view. Much of what is "common knowledge" among reef tank hobbyists, particularly animal husbandry knowledge, has only recently been studied in scientifically controlled experiments.
Regarding ginger as an anti-cryptocaryon, it's certainly possible. If you think about it, most parasitic diseases of both humans and livestock were nearly intractable, fatal conditions and could only be controlled with administration of toxic heavy metals.
Then things like ivermectin, selamectin, metronidazole, imidacloprid, and many other targeted anti-parasitics came along.
In an analogous way, we're still in the dark ages with marine cryptocaryon, and most pharmaceuticals did originate in plants.
Regarding ginger as an anti-cryptocaryon, it's certainly possible. If you think about it, most parasitic diseases of both humans and livestock were nearly intractable, fatal conditions and could only be controlled with administration of toxic heavy metals.
Then things like ivermectin, selamectin, metronidazole, imidacloprid, and many other targeted anti-parasitics came along.
In an analogous way, we're still in the dark ages with marine cryptocaryon, and most pharmaceuticals did originate in plants.
The sculpin
New member
Day three using ginger, fish look worse, doubled dosage.
Allmost
New member
LOLOL ! haha
about gong from low salinity to higher ... lower salinity can hold more oxygen. so when salinity increases, oxygen drops, need to increase surface agitation. thats the reason behind it
ingtar_shinowa
New member
LOLOL ! haha
about gong from low salinity to higher ... lower salinity can hold more oxygen. so when salinity increases, oxygen drops, need to increase surface agitation. thats the reason behind it
I did not know this. Thanks bro.
tang named junkyard
Well-known member
Sculpin, just curious. How are you adding it?
Pinkskunk
New member
BoricuaMojao
New member
my good Lord, is that English? LOL
unnecessary, unhelpful and unrelated to the topic post, just a low dig at someone's written communication skills
adddo
“Goodnight, tiny humans.â€
my good Lord, is that English? LOL
His contribution to the thread was a lot better than yours though...
Also keep in mind that not everyone have English as their first language on this site.
TankCla
SPSychology
Fast update: after 1 week my tang is clean.
I don't know if the ginger, garlic, metro or vitamin food made the ich go away.
I didn't put ginger in the tank, only mix it with frozen food. Fish are eating good and the tang has a belly, you might think it will explode. They are not seeking "air" in the tank nor breathing fast. I have very active fish and not shy at all (including the tang). For me this are symptoms of healthy fish.
For all of you who are thinking I am stressing my fish, I have no other way of treating this. It is better to try something than do nothing. Under current conditions, I don't have the proper tools to make a suitable QT.
I haven't lost any fish to ich so far, and this should raise a question mark about something in this mix - garlic/ginger/metro/vitamins.
Ok, again you might say it is the ich cycle. I will keep an eye on the fish for about a month, and I will tell you if this is ich cycle or not. I think everybody here needs to see if the ginger really works or it's just a hoax.
I don't know if the ginger, garlic, metro or vitamin food made the ich go away.
I didn't put ginger in the tank, only mix it with frozen food. Fish are eating good and the tang has a belly, you might think it will explode. They are not seeking "air" in the tank nor breathing fast. I have very active fish and not shy at all (including the tang). For me this are symptoms of healthy fish.
For all of you who are thinking I am stressing my fish, I have no other way of treating this. It is better to try something than do nothing. Under current conditions, I don't have the proper tools to make a suitable QT.
I haven't lost any fish to ich so far, and this should raise a question mark about something in this mix - garlic/ginger/metro/vitamins.
Ok, again you might say it is the ich cycle. I will keep an eye on the fish for about a month, and I will tell you if this is ich cycle or not. I think everybody here needs to see if the ginger really works or it's just a hoax.
DopeCantWin
Active member
If there are no visible signs in a month, that doesn't mean the Ich is gone.
TankCla
SPSychology
At least the fish can live with it, and I have to be careful with new fish.
LOLOL ! haha
about gong from low salinity to higher ... lower salinity can hold more oxygen. so when salinity increases, oxygen drops, need to increase surface agitation. thats the reason behind it
didn't know this either, cool to know why, thanks!
OK.
Folks can play with a variety of distractions and home remedies and commercial "reef safe" ( the list is long) to hope and try cope with a tank infested by ich or bite the bullet and use a proven effective treatment which coupled with effective quarantine practices for new specimens can produce an aquarium free of this parasite.
The reluctance to use proven methods is understandable since they require long fishless periods and treatments outside the tank.
However, it's a big time killer and well studied largely because of its impact on fish farming and the aquarium trade. Anyone looking for an informed rational discussion on it should just google crpytocaryon irritans. The literature is rich with information that can help you choose a method to deal with it or to hope and try to cope if you choose. Experiments with different"reef safe" compounds are intersesting and may gie us more effective treatment methods over time ; anecdotal experiences are curiosities often related to placebo effects or other variables ; so , be careful about how much stock you put in them.
FWIW, I've tried almost all of the hope and cope methods over the early years of my aquariums . None gave me an ich free tank.
The following thread summarizes the method I've been using for years successfully:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2185929&highlight=fish+acclimation+and+quarantine
Folks can play with a variety of distractions and home remedies and commercial "reef safe" ( the list is long) to hope and try cope with a tank infested by ich or bite the bullet and use a proven effective treatment which coupled with effective quarantine practices for new specimens can produce an aquarium free of this parasite.
The reluctance to use proven methods is understandable since they require long fishless periods and treatments outside the tank.
However, it's a big time killer and well studied largely because of its impact on fish farming and the aquarium trade. Anyone looking for an informed rational discussion on it should just google crpytocaryon irritans. The literature is rich with information that can help you choose a method to deal with it or to hope and try to cope if you choose. Experiments with different"reef safe" compounds are intersesting and may gie us more effective treatment methods over time ; anecdotal experiences are curiosities often related to placebo effects or other variables ; so , be careful about how much stock you put in them.
FWIW, I've tried almost all of the hope and cope methods over the early years of my aquariums . None gave me an ich free tank.
The following thread summarizes the method I've been using for years successfully:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2185929&highlight=fish+acclimation+and+quarantine
blanden.adam
Team RC
Higher salinity water certainly holds less oxygen than lower salinity water, but I doubt it's mostly the oxygen as from 5-35 ppt, dissolved oxygen concentration only goes down by ~1 ppm. A larger concern is osmoregulation. Fish keep an internal specific gravity of about 1.009, so they have to work very hard actively transporting ions out of their blood in higher specific gravity (say, 1.026).
If a fish goes from high specific gravity to low specific gravity, it needs to export fewer ions and can adapt just by drinking more (provided the water is still a higher salinity than it's internal salinity). If it goes from lower specific gravity to higher specific gravity, it then needs to upregulate it's ability to concentrate its excreted fluids, which requires energy and takes time. So, if you go from a high salinity to a low salinity (but still above 1.009), the fish can adapt behaviorally almost immediately, but if you go from a lower salinity to a higher salinity, there is no behavioral adaptation that can keep the fish in homeostasis and the internal salinity will rise.
- Status
