Heteractis Magnifica Propagation- 30 minutes ago in my kitchen!

Not looking good for this guy. I've kept him alive as long as I could. He's just not improving, but honestly he's not getting worse either. He's just kinda hanging on. I don't expect him to make it another 4-5 days. He'll probably die within the next few days or so. The siphon tube waxed his butt.





The other is doing well.



 
Is the mouth all healed ? Is the 1 of the last picture that get sucked in the ph? I hope the other 1 will make it. Good luck ;)
 
A couple of years bifurcating BTA

A couple of years bifurcating BTA

This is going to get lost in this post but hopefully it will help.

I've done this many times with Green BTA's E. quadracolor and I'm not saying that it is the exact same thing but a lot of what you are experiencing is familiar.

I've done three generational bifurcations of E. quad and have had a 100% success rate. I think the key is that you have to have really good water with infinitely low ammonia.

What I do is completely the opposite of what you expect. I keep all my anemone in 10 gal tanks using a canister filter equipped with a 25 watt UV sterilizer. I do 2 x 25% water changes per week; so, I have 0 ammonia and nitrates. I never check for anything but I am very careful with my make-up water. The make-up must be within +/- 0.2 deg. C of the original tank water and the salinity must be between 34.9 "“ 35.1 (SG. 1.02635 +/1.00010.

When I do the anemone bifurcation I keep the fragments in a tank by themselves. The fragments re-inflate about 24 hours after division depending on the fragment size. Smaller fragments take longer. It takes about a week for the parts to circle back and form a new basal disk. During the first week, I do daily 25% water changes. The fragments tend to be puffy and stay out of the light but they do not invert. Only once did I see any fragment expel Zoa and that was a 1/4 piece and it survived.

After a week the (now new nems) move around a bit. If they do not find a spot and go for the intakes, your water has too much NH4 and you need to do water changes. The new nems do not need anything to eat. Do not feed them. NH4 is their enemy.

Keep the new anemone away from aggressive fish like clowns for at least three months because they can tare open a newly healed anemone. In fact, keep them away from anything until they open up and expand into the feed me posture. Do not feed them until they open into the feeding posture!

When they say feed me. You have succeeded.
 
Kaman8 said:
Is the mouth all healed ? Is the 1 of the last picture that get sucked in the ph? I hope the other 1 will make it. Good luck ;)
Click to expand...

Yes, the one that looks good is the one that got sucked in the intake of my MJ 1200.

Strangely the other took it worse. The lack of flow and cloudy water really got him. He's more sensitive.

If I had not been an idiot and used a 3/4" siphon hose, I probably would have never sucked him up. I was like 4" away, but the suction was so strong and it just happened so quick.

Who knows, I might be able to get him to pull through.

On a positive note:






:beer:
 
raythepilot said:
This is going to get lost in this post but hopefully it will help.

I've done this many times with Green BTA's E. quadracolor and I'm not saying that it is the exact same thing but a lot of what you are experiencing is familiar.

I've done three generational bifurcations of E. quad and have had a 100% success rate. I think the key is that you have to have really good water with infinitely low ammonia.

What I do is completely the opposite of what you expect. I keep all my anemone in 10 gal tanks using a canister filter equipped with a 25 watt UV sterilizer. I do 2 x 25% water changes per week; so, I have 0 ammonia and nitrates. I never check for anything but I am very careful with my make-up water. The make-up must be within +/- 0.2 deg. C of the original tank water and the salinity must be between 34.9 "“ 35.1 (SG. 1.02635 +/1.00010.

When I do the anemone bifurcation I keep the fragments in a tank by themselves. The fragments re-inflate about 24 hours after division depending on the fragment size. Smaller fragments take longer. It takes about a week for the parts to circle back and form a new basal disk. During the first week, I do daily 25% water changes. The fragments tend to be puffy and stay out of the light but they do not invert. Only once did I see any fragment expel Zoa and that was a 1/4 piece and it survived.

After a week the (now new nems) move around a bit. If they do not find a spot and go for the intakes, your water has too much NH4 and you need to do water changes. The new nems do not need anything to eat. Do not feed them. NH4 is their enemy.

Keep the new anemone away from aggressive fish like clowns for at least three months because they can tare open a newly healed anemone. In fact, keep them away from anything until they open up and expand into the feed me posture. Do not feed them until they open into the feeding posture!

When they say feed me. You have succeeded.
Click to expand...

Good info brother. Appreciate it!
 
Kaman8 said:
By the way , do you know when I can start feeding my rbta again after the split?
Click to expand...

RBTA are quick healers. I would think within a week you should be fine.

Mine got chopped in a powerhead and was 1/3 the size he originally was and ate in a week.
 
TigeBell said:
Reef, can we get an update? I'm hoping they pull through.
Click to expand...

I'm at work right now.....7P-7A. Except when I'm working down town it's 3P-11P.

I'll update when I get home in the morning. Check at 9am.

They both are still hanging in there. Both have been through heck.

The next time I decide to do this, I'll make sure stupid crap doesn't happen again.
 
Well, I did a WC with some milky water that my girl mixed and he didn't like it, and neither did my Haddoni. SPS did fine and his other half, but I'm sure he's done now. Been a long ride that's come to it's end. My girl dumped a half bag of salt in my brute can and I forgot to turn the valve on- so there was only about 10/G of water in it. I told her to do it so my fault. I wanted it to mix while I was at work. It's just another dumb mistake that you can add to my stupid list-that should have been avoided. I filled the can full and it was still cloudy but salinity was ok 1.023. I used it and now wish I had dumped it. He was doing so good yesterday and gave me some signs that I felt like he was going to make it. Anyway, when I saw how bad he was I put him in the QT when I got home, and treated with Cipro and Septra DS in hopes that maybe he'll respond, but I'm afraid it's too late this time. I still have one half thriving so he will live on. Here's the pics. :-(





 
Last edited:
Kaman8 said:
At least they are not both dead. Make it grow big and cut it again :)
Click to expand...


I plan on feeding that one 3x a week to grow him back out and let the mouth position, and then I'm going to try again. I'm confident I won't make near the stupid mistakes as previous time.

His other half is thriving! So did I really loose anything?
 
Reefahholic said:
I plan on feeding that one 3x a week to grow him back out and let the mouth position, and then I'm going to try again. I'm confident I won't make near the stupid mistakes as previous time.

His other half is thriving! So did I really loose anything?
Click to expand...

Learn from mistakes :spin3:
 
Yes. At least you're big enough to admit that you've made mistakes. Still hoping for the best for your other nem. :)
 
DasCamel said:
Just remember the water needs to cycle through the sterilizer to disinfect. So if the the Nems are in the same tank, bacteria can still pass between them. In commercial setups, they help from spreading things from tank to tank.
Click to expand...

Exactly right! A UV will do very little to prevent spread of anything between animals within the same tank, but if all water moves through the unit as it travels from one tank to another, at the correct rate, and the UV is maintained, it can be effective at preventing cross tank contamination. If animals are healthy, UV can also reduce pathogen 'pressure' within a closed system and perhaps help in managing some diseases.
 
Reefahholic said:
Yes, the one that looks good is the one that got sucked in the intake of my MJ 1200.

Strangely the other took it worse. The lack of flow and cloudy water really got him. He's more sensitive.

If I had not been an idiot and used a 3/4" siphon hose, I probably would have never sucked him up. I was like 4" away, but the suction was so strong and it just happened so quick.

Who knows, I might be able to get him to pull through.

On a positive note:






:beer:
Click to expand...

This looks like the dd's latest African/Maldivian ritteri
 
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