DANNY G2004
Active member
No in order to make it a 2stage you need the regulator to be 2 stage and as far as the bubble counter on the other regulator you can remove it and add a metering valve but it will still be a single stage
How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.
- Thread starter alanle
- Start date
No in order to make it a 2stage you need the regulator to be 2 stage and as far as the bubble counter on the other regulator you can remove it and add a metering valve but it will still be a single stage
Is this Danny from Oxnard? It's Mike, lol. I've been reading on building my regulator for he ca reactor thanks to you!
Alan,
Will an airgas E11-C441A be a good regulator?
DANNY G2004
Active member
Yes it's me lol
I'm glad you decided to make one you will be glad you did they are so easy to dialed in
You can just replace it with a plug...
Jlentz
New member
I got some more parts. It seems pretty clear how these bits go together, I'm wondering what the significance is of the little taper/notch thingies on these tubes is.
Is like to confirm that I don't need to put any type of sleeve or anything on this one.
The compression fittings do not seem to tighten up at all finger tight. Do I need to torque on it a bit with a wrench? How tight do they need to be?
What should I use on the threaded bits? I seem to recall reading something about a liquid Teflon instead of the tape but it's a long thread...
Thanks!
You don't need to use any Teflon on this tube fittings. Just torque it. The ferrules will lock the tube and create a seal.
Trying to figure this one out too.
I'm not super attached to this bubble counter but it does have a check valve in it. What am I supposed to be hooking up to this to attach the hose?
I've got a fluval bubble counter and an inline check valve, SS with barbs from Taiwan. (I've also got a bubble counter and check valve on my c1502 but I hear the check valves on those tend to fail).
You take that oring and place it on the other end (bottom) of the bubble counter. I guess the manufacturer doesn't have a better place to package this oring.
Hopefully last one for tonight.
What does "P" and "A" mean on my solenoid?
"P" on the solenoid is the incoming pressure side and the "A" is the outgoing side.
Nicely executed!!!!
Jlentz
New member
Thanks alanle!
I've done a bit more reading at the other place and I'm wanting to ditch the JBJ bubble counter, get a swagelock check valve and hook the tubing right up to that. (I've got the green tubing that came with my Korallin now, please let me know if I should get something different.)
Do they have an online place I can get this stuff from? They don't seem to have anyplace in NV as a distributor.
I've done a bit more reading at the other place and I'm wanting to ditch the JBJ bubble counter, get a swagelock check valve and hook the tubing right up to that. (I've got the green tubing that came with my Korallin now, please let me know if I should get something different.)
Do they have an online place I can get this stuff from? They don't seem to have anyplace in NV as a distributor.
Jlentz
New member
Perfect. Thanks alanle!!:bounce3:
africangrey
Active member
Any trick on plying open the DIN, I've not been able to release that from the plastic housing for wiring.
Jlentz
New member
Any trick on plying open the DIN, I've not been able to release that from the plastic housing for wiring.
Not sure if this question or response due to picture.
The trick is to unscrew the screw all the way and pry up where it says to. (Labeled "lift" maybe)
I was stumped and I googled around until I found the data sheet on it from berkert.
africangrey
Active member
There is no labeling anywhere, but the instruction stated just remove the contact insert as it can be easily removed.
africangrey
Active member
without prying?
