Jebao Cross Flow Pump

I read through many pages but did not find the consensus on if your cp-40 has a whining pitch to it, you basically just take it apart and back together as tight as possible? Diagram on pg 40
 
I've been running the cp-40 I got from ebay for a couple days now, it definitely has more flow than rw pumps. I run it on W1 on 1 LED setting.

I tried the W2 setting, 1 led on forward, and full speed on reverse.
Although I don't really feel anything while my hand is in front of the pump while pump runs in reverse, I do see the polyps of my sps sway to the opposite direction, so I think there is enough flow for the corals. I have bare bottom, but I suppose this is better for those with sand so sand does not get blown around.

The ebay US seller's cp-40 sold out in a couple days after the big price drop.
I'm sure they will get more and maybe price will drop further.

anyone got both cp-40 and cp-25? is the magnet on the cp-25 shorter ?
I want to mount it on my center overflow if the magnet of the cp-25 is shorter. I currently mounted the cp-40 in front center of my 60 cube.
 
I have my crossflow in a small tank (25g shallow frag tank) and it's a bit stronger than I'd like. I want to run it in the reversing mode to keep debris that wants to settle on the bottom, up in the water column and then be flushed out over the weir. But the controller only splits the power into 2 components (X% one direction and Y% the other direction = 100% power). So I can dial it back in one direction and it just makes the other direction stronger.

Back when the Jebao WP40 first came out some people (including me) used a small 'dimmer/rheostat' to reduce the power going to the controller and lowering the overall power and flow from the pump.

My question is: Would one of those small white dimmers work inline in front of the crossflow controller? It has the exact same connector plugs that the WP40 has/had when it was new.
 
Ron - no, I don't see that working. The dimmers are varying DC voltage, but these brushless motor pumps are driven by three phases pulses that rotate the energy in a circle to turn the shaft. To speed up or slow down, the pulse widths need to grow or shrink. There's a whole thread on it.

The OP (doughboy) has found a way to get an adjustable speed controller to ~70% max power using a $10 Chinese controller from eBay. So if adjustability is more important that top flow, that may be a good option.

A couple of the serious DIYers are working on a new controller board to get to 100%.
 
So here's my story with my cp 40....first one I received the motor shaft was broken so it was replaced. Then the second one worked fine but it made a loud whining noise I couldn't get rid of. Now this motor has stopped working all in the few months I have had it (red light blinking error). Loved the flow the pump put out but skeptical about the reliability and noise. I do want to repair it and tinker with it though.

Does anyone know where you can get replacement parts for these?
 
karim, are you saying that the dc motor in the WP wavemaker pump is different from the dc pump in the Crossflow pump?

The 'dimmer' I used was inline between the power supply black box and the controller. Just want to be sure we are talking about the same kind of 'dimmer/rheostat.
 
Yes. The Jebao WP and the DC pumps have internal motor drives (inside the pump body) and the three wires to them deliver 24VDC, ground and a signal to set speed.

The crossflow and DCT pumps need controllers that generate the drive pulses, not DC. The three wires to them deliver phased pulse power A, B, and C. The phases' pulse widths determine speed. There is no DC signal that sets them.

This is now established by multiple DIYers who are trying to solve the problem.

Personally, I just plugged in a DC pump controller wire into a DCT pump... No go.
 
based on the closest source to the jebao factory (fish street) they stopped shipping cp40's and waiting on an improved model wich should make it way better.

the english on the site is really really bad, eve worse than mine.

but i basically decided to try it out and pre_ordered the new and upgraded version wich will start shipping 31july.

i wonder what they changed.. its a complete blind purchase at this moment but since all my jebao gear is great.. only had 1 wp15 fail on me (of the 21 pumps running since the wp and rw launch) this motor just stipped working after 17months.. no big deal
 
well.... I just purchased a CP-25 from Amazon for my 40B just to see how it is.. Should be here tomorrow.. We shall see how long it lasts and how well it performs..
I thought the cp-40 might be too big for it as I've got some fairly fine sand too so I went with the 25
 
IMO, both this jebao and maxspect gyre are garbage. I got mine from fish street 2-3 months ago. It was working ok but not the flow I expected. I took it apart twice already and it won't start up again. I should have kept my mp40s
 
i pre ordered the improved version.

all real gyre around me are breaking.. and they still sell like mad for insanse prices (the 150 is like 400 dollar here)
 
Yes. The Jebao WP and the DC pumps have internal motor drives (inside the pump body) and the three wires to them deliver 24VDC, ground and a signal to set speed.

The crossflow and DCT pumps need controllers that generate the drive pulses, not DC. The three wires to them deliver phased pulse power A, B, and C. The phases' pulse widths determine speed. There is no DC signal that sets them.

This is now established by multiple DIYers who are trying to solve the problem.

Personally, I just plugged in a DC pump controller wire into a DCT pump... No go.

Thanks for the knowledge Karim. I appreciate the help.
 
Anyone use the Wi-fi controller? There was just an update in the app store and now when in "reef" mode, the pump tries to go into reverse and seems to get stuck and just starts shaking. I received an email from fish street some time ago about sending the controller back for a firmware update but never did.

I think the WI-fi controller was a complete waste of money for one pump. It adds one or two more modes but you loose the fwd/reverse gyre which I really like and you can't set the intensity or duration on the pre-programmed modes like you can on the original controller. Maybe it's just me but I put it in a drawer and went back to the original controller.
 
well just installed the CP-25 cross flow in my 40 breeder .. and so far have no complaints.. But time will tell on how long it lasts..

It can certainly create some flow.. I'm running it at 60% in W3 mode (long duration on the dial) for now and see how that goes..
I didn't take it apart yet but I thought build quality is just fine.. Good solid feel for what it is..

Magnet is STRONG.. So strong in fact that it actually inverted the logic on the reed switch inside my ATO float switch about 3-4 inches away.. I noticed my ATO was on and noticed it was now triggering on in the up position and off in the down position.. .. It wasn't pulling the float down but it literally messed with the reed switch inside the float tube.. Had me stumped for a good 30 seconds.. :idea:
 
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