Lanthanum chloride
- Thread starter Gary Majchrzak
- Start date
pecan2phat
Active member
It was me Steve.
Even though I attributed the initial hazing on the glass from dosing pure LaCl3 in the very beginning, I am still experiencing the problem with the diluted dosing but not as fast as before.
The only method without dismantling the tank to rid some (not all) of the hazing was to use a Magic Eraser by hand on the inside panels under water. Be careful though as I understand that Magic Erasers are considered abrasive.
I suspect the hazing is from lanthanum going into the system and reacting in the display. When you are dosing what dilution are you using, how are you dosing (including rate), and what is your phosphate level?
On the system I set up there is an acrylic tank, no indication of hazing anywhere
On the system I set up there is an acrylic tank, no indication of hazing anywhere
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
no hazing here
no hazing here
after several years of LaCl3 treatments. Probably because of the method used.
no hazing here
after several years of LaCl3 treatments. Probably because of the method used.
are you diluting? do you have enough phosphate to react with the lanthanum?
SPotter
Active member
dilution is fine, much lower than a lot of folks are using.
I'm still feeling out how low I can go and keep the lanthanum reaction before the sock. if you are dosing right into the sock your contact time is minimal, wouldn't be surprised if some lanthanum goes through the sock because it didn't have time to react with the phosphate when the level is low (like yours at .03).
FWIW, personally I don't see a need to go below .03
just speculating
I'm still feeling out how low I can go and keep the lanthanum reaction before the sock. if you are dosing right into the sock your contact time is minimal, wouldn't be surprised if some lanthanum goes through the sock because it didn't have time to react with the phosphate when the level is low (like yours at .03).
FWIW, personally I don't see a need to go below .03
just speculating
ravi197699
Member
hey guys i have been reading this thread from few days and from page 1 and i am impressed with results you guys are havng with seaklear . i am going to pool supply and see if they carry seaklear if not i am going to order on line and i have already ordered raw 10 micron polyester so that i can make filter socks for my requirements. my wife is going to pick up ivy drip dosing bag from her job. i have 120 gal system and i have green hair algaeissue. i almost decided to sell everything and give up this hobby for now. but i see hope of fighting , i have spent so much on gfo , bio pellets, reactors but nothing seems to help. since i have 120 gal system very little fish and few corals . what is the best way to dose. i was thinking dosing through protein skimmer and then add filter sock on the output of the protien skimmer, i have 4 feet long mtc protein skimmer with single ventury. pelase give your advise. thanks
RegalAngel
Member
Any thoughts on this Lanthanum chloride product?
http://www.petmountain.com/product/...442-572932/agent-green-phosphate-remover.html
ATM's Agent Green Phosphate Remover is designed for maximum performance and efficiency in removing phosphates instantly. Agent Green acts as an ion exchanger that uses calcium to bind phosphate into insoluble beads. This is critical primarily because the phosphate will not dissolve right back into the water while waiting to be swept out by filtration.
•Instantly removes phosphates
•Safe for reef and all fish
•Professional lanthanum chloride formula
Agent Green features a professional lanthanum chloride formula that is reef safe. Keep dangerous phosphates out with instant-acting Agent Green.
Should I expect my large closed loop canister filter to plug off faster if I added this to the sump? Or will it remain at the bottom of the tank.
http://www.petmountain.com/product/...442-572932/agent-green-phosphate-remover.html
ATM's Agent Green Phosphate Remover is designed for maximum performance and efficiency in removing phosphates instantly. Agent Green acts as an ion exchanger that uses calcium to bind phosphate into insoluble beads. This is critical primarily because the phosphate will not dissolve right back into the water while waiting to be swept out by filtration.
•Instantly removes phosphates
•Safe for reef and all fish
•Professional lanthanum chloride formula
Agent Green features a professional lanthanum chloride formula that is reef safe. Keep dangerous phosphates out with instant-acting Agent Green.
Should I expect my large closed loop canister filter to plug off faster if I added this to the sump? Or will it remain at the bottom of the tank.
RegalAngel
Member
Double post?
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
IMO, your paying money for a product that is likely diluted and watered down with the word "reef" attached. I'm concerned they sell this and don't emphasize the importance of mechanically filtering out the precipitate...Not that it'll leach but that it is harmful to fish, sponges, and possibly other inhabitants!
I can't believe I made it to the end of this thread, it took a few weeks.
I started dosing LaCl3 a little over two years ago after finding the BlueLife Phosphate control product at Marine Depot. It worked well, but was very pricey. A little research led me to the SeaKlear product which I've been using, like I said for a little over two years. I started out with a PO4 level of 1.54 PPM on my Milwaukee colorimiter. I'm hovering right around .1 now, depending on how regular I am with my maintenance.
My first 32 Oz bottle of SeaKlear is almost empty, and I got the replacement from PoolGeek.com last month. I noticed that the new bottle has 2 differences from the first, and I'm curious about one of them. On the first bottle, there's a scale to let you know how many ounces you have left. I thought that was beneficial, but not having it on the new bottle is a minor inconvenience, at best. The difference between old and new that troubles me was brought up a few pages back, but I didn't see it addressed. The old bottle says: SeaKlear Phosphate Remover For Pools
The New lable says SeaKlear Phosphate Remover CR for Pools.
What's that CR thing all about??
I started dosing LaCl3 a little over two years ago after finding the BlueLife Phosphate control product at Marine Depot. It worked well, but was very pricey. A little research led me to the SeaKlear product which I've been using, like I said for a little over two years. I started out with a PO4 level of 1.54 PPM on my Milwaukee colorimiter. I'm hovering right around .1 now, depending on how regular I am with my maintenance.
My first 32 Oz bottle of SeaKlear is almost empty, and I got the replacement from PoolGeek.com last month. I noticed that the new bottle has 2 differences from the first, and I'm curious about one of them. On the first bottle, there's a scale to let you know how many ounces you have left. I thought that was beneficial, but not having it on the new bottle is a minor inconvenience, at best. The difference between old and new that troubles me was brought up a few pages back, but I didn't see it addressed. The old bottle says: SeaKlear Phosphate Remover For Pools
The New lable says SeaKlear Phosphate Remover CR for Pools.
What's that CR thing all about??
SPotter
Active member
Larry, what is your process for administering the LaCl3? Do you do it as a continuos drip or like a once a month type dosage?
As far as which bottle.... I know my bottle that I just got is like your old bottle and I think the difference is the total concentration of LaCl3. I think the CR bottle is a little more diluted but I could be wrong. I know you can still get the old one label if you google it.
As far as which bottle.... I know my bottle that I just got is like your old bottle and I think the difference is the total concentration of LaCl3. I think the CR bottle is a little more diluted but I could be wrong. I know you can still get the old one label if you google it.
Hi Steve,
I add 5-6 ml of straight SeaKlear to a 40 gallon sump. It mixes around well in there and then travels to my refugium, where it is filtered through two 100 Micron filter pads before going into the 'fuge (I noticed that it killed off thousands of little feather dusters in that sump). The water leaving the 'fuge passes through a 10 micron filter sock and then enters my main sump. At this point, there is no visible cloudiness. At one point, I was dosing the 5-6 ml almost daily, now, I dose it maybe twice a week.
I noticed another difference on the label of the new bottle of SeaKlear. The old one said "Effective- 1 quart removes at least 9,000 PPB of Orthophosphates per 10,000 gallons of water" Also, "Nontoxic-100% safe for your family and the environment"
New bottle says "Effective-1 quart removes at least 3,000 PPB of orthophosphates per 10,000 gallons of water" and "environmentally friendly" Both bottles were about $33.00/ea.
I sent an email to Poolgeek.com to see if they can/will do anything.
I add 5-6 ml of straight SeaKlear to a 40 gallon sump. It mixes around well in there and then travels to my refugium, where it is filtered through two 100 Micron filter pads before going into the 'fuge (I noticed that it killed off thousands of little feather dusters in that sump). The water leaving the 'fuge passes through a 10 micron filter sock and then enters my main sump. At this point, there is no visible cloudiness. At one point, I was dosing the 5-6 ml almost daily, now, I dose it maybe twice a week.
I noticed another difference on the label of the new bottle of SeaKlear. The old one said "Effective- 1 quart removes at least 9,000 PPB of Orthophosphates per 10,000 gallons of water" Also, "Nontoxic-100% safe for your family and the environment"
New bottle says "Effective-1 quart removes at least 3,000 PPB of orthophosphates per 10,000 gallons of water" and "environmentally friendly" Both bottles were about $33.00/ea.
I sent an email to Poolgeek.com to see if they can/will do anything.
I run a 90 gallon refugium with a large ball of Chaetomorpha tumbling on one side, and "extra" live rock on the other side. If "ATS" is Algae Turf Scrubber, I've looked into it, I just don't think it's for me.
SPotter
Active member
Ive used a scrubber for almost two yrs now and just took it down. IMO it takes too much out of the water creating a ULNS similar to a zeovit system. I noticed slower growth and less color with my sps.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
LaCl3 can easily take down PO4 to a level that starves out Chaeto IME.
Red algae (Rhodophyta) seem to be able to thrive in low level of PO4 and it's displaced Chaetomorpha in my system.
I don't know the answer to your questions, Larry- but it sure would be interesting to find out. Congrats on finishing this novel. :wavehand:
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