Leopard Wrasse Primer

[Jstn]

So I only have a kole and 3 1.5" bipartitus wrasse in my 90 after a velvet reboot (all new Qt fish). I have a 4" yellow corris in my 20 clown tank that I never added to the 90 after I found I had velvet. Now he is too big for the 20, but I am scared he would be too agressive on the leopard wrasses, should I wait for more wrasse to be added before moving him over or should I be fine?
The last time I added a single bipartitus wrasse, he chased him around and ultimately stressed that fish out, now the three are acclimated to the 90 and out number him.

 

[mike810]

Hi guys,

Picked up a potters tonight which looked to be healthy at the store. Took it home and temp acclimated for about 15-20 minutes. Then I dripped for another 30-40 minutes. Nearing the end of the drip acclimation, I went to check on the fish and noticed it sideways looking kind of out of it. So I got worried and in it went to the tank, of course it went straight for the sand.

I know these fish are delicate and is always a gamble but what do you guys think it's chances of survivor is? Did I acclimate the fish properly? Thanks in advance.

 

[triggreef]

So I only have a kole and 3 1.5" bipartitus wrasse in my 90 after a velvet reboot (all new Qt fish). I have a 4" yellow corris in my 20 clown tank that I never added to the 90 after I found I had velvet. Now he is too big for the 20, but I am scared he would be too agressive on the leopard wrasses, should I wait for more wrasse to be added before moving him over or should I be fine?
The last time I added a single bipartitus wrasse, he chased him around and ultimately stressed that fish out, now the three are acclimated to the 90 and out number him.

I wouldn't worry even a little in a 90g. The yellows are the tamest out of them all, and usually the first to get bullied. If established first there might be a little tension upon new intros after but nothing more than a day IME.

Hi guys,

Picked up a potters tonight which looked to be healthy at the store. Took it home and temp acclimated for about 15-20 minutes. Then I dripped for another 30-40 minutes. Nearing the end of the drip acclimation, I went to check on the fish and noticed it sideways looking kind of out of it. So I got worried and in it went to the tank, of course it went straight for the sand.

I know these fish are delicate and is always a gamble but what do you guys think it's chances of survivor is? Did I acclimate the fish properly? Thanks in advance.

They often turn on their side almost like they are laying down, when they get stressed. Seems about normal.

 

[eatbreakfast]

I wouldn't worry even a little in a 90g. The yellows are the tamest out of them all, and usually the first to get bullied. If established first there might be a little tension upon new intros after but nothing more than a day IME.



They often turn on their side almost like they are laying down, when they get stressed. Seems about normal.

I agree about the yellow coris in the 90, although I do strongly recommend using a social acclimation bow.

As far as the acclimation of the potters, the laying on the side is normal, but the acclimation period of time was a bit long. Anything over 30min begins to see some adverse affects.

 

[Jstn]

I agree about the yellow coris in the 90, although I do strongly recommend using a social acclimation bow.

As far as the acclimation of the potters, the laying on the side is normal, but the acclimation period of time was a bit long. Anything over 30min begins to see some adverse affects.

To be fair this yellow did chase and stress out a bipartitus a year ago that didnt make it. Mind you the yellow was in there first and the tank was only a 40B.

And my trio finally started eating pellets!

 

[evolved]

... the yellow was in there first and the tank was only a 40B.

And those are two very big differences from the current situation.

 

[Jstn]

And those are two very big differences from the current situation.

Fair enough, I just wanted to check, I guess he will be moved to the 90 tonight.

 

[mike810]

Well sad to say I found my potters belly up. Was kinda expecting it since it went side ways in the acclimation bucket while I was dripping it. How does everyone acclimate their wrasse? Seems I lose the wrasse in the bucket before it even enters the main tank. Lost a couple from drip acclimating already.

 

[CedzAquAddictio]

Sorry to hear that, Man...

I haven't had allot of problems with that acclimation, but sometimes I've had them go into the sand, and never come out again...

Once they have made it through QT, and are well established in your DT, they are pretty hardy fish...

Going to give it another try?

 

[mike810]

Sorry to hear that, Man...

I haven't had allot of problems with that acclimation, but sometimes I've had them go into the sand, and never come out again...

Once they have made it through QT, and are well established in your DT, they are pretty hardy fish...

Going to give it another try?

For sure I will definitely give it another try. Next time I'll probably shorten the acclimation process. I pick what appears to be healthy specimens from the store, when I get them home to acclimate. They seem to lose it in the acclimation bucket. Guess I'm dripping them for too long.

 

[Jstn]

I am happy to report that the corris and the leopards are getting along just fine.

 

[triggreef]

Well sad to say I found my potters belly up. Was kinda expecting it since it went side ways in the acclimation bucket while I was dripping it. How does everyone acclimate their wrasse? Seems I lose the wrasse in the bucket before it even enters the main tank. Lost a couple from drip acclimating already.

Hey I didn't catch about the long drip acclimation when I read that before. A couple points about that...

Mute point if they are from your local store, assuming the ride is not very long, but ammonia builds up fast in a bag. The reason fish are ok in the bag with the ammonia is due to the ph drop that also happens. Products such as amquil etc, drop ph which is why it lessens the ammonia toxicity when it is used in situations where there is ammonia. I tested bag water once, a powder blue tang from reefs2go which I had 2 years and just recently sold to another reefer. The ammonia was 5ppm+ and that is no typo, not .5 but actually 5ppm!

Point being, you bring home fish in a bag with ammonia and low ph. Then you begin dripping your tank water into the bag or whatever which now has ammonia. Your tank water brings the ph up, making that ammonia that was previously not toxic, into a death trap.

I generally only check the specific gravity. I match the specific gravity of the bag water to my quarantine tank each time I bring home a new fish. Float it for 15 minutes, and in it goes. Fish don't care about if your mg is low or ca is high, only SG. As long as SG is matched your good to go.

For reference sake, Live aquaria ships at 1.018 to 1.019 unless its from divers den which is 1.025

Many local fish stores in my area are 1.022 so it helps to know ahead of time when your getting a new fish and from where.

 

[mike810]

Hey I didn't catch about the long drip acclimation when I read that before. A couple points about that...

Mute point if they are from your local store, assuming the ride is not very long, but ammonia builds up fast in a bag. The reason fish are ok in the bag with the ammonia is due to the ph drop that also happens. Products such as amquil etc, drop ph which is why it lessens the ammonia toxicity when it is used in situations where there is ammonia. I tested bag water once, a powder blue tang from reefs2go which I had 2 years and just recently sold to another reefer. The ammonia was 5ppm+ and that is no typo, not .5 but actually 5ppm!

Point being, you bring home fish in a bag with ammonia and low ph. Then you begin dripping your tank water into the bag or whatever which now has ammonia. Your tank water brings the ph up, making that ammonia that was previously not toxic, into a death trap.

I generally only check the specific gravity. I match the specific gravity of the bag water to my quarantine tank each time I bring home a new fish. Float it for 15 minutes, and in it goes. Fish don't care about if your mg is low or ca is high, only SG. As long as SG is matched your good to go.

For reference sake, Live aquaria ships at 1.018 to 1.019 unless its from divers den which is 1.025

Many local fish stores in my area are 1.022 so it helps to know ahead of time when your getting a new fish and from where.

Trig,

Thanks for the advice. I remember reading about that somewhere, most likely on rc. Next time I give it a go, I'll try this method. Do you float to match temp then add cups of tank water to match the salinity instead of dripping?

I understand fish don't care about ca/alk, just salinity,temp and ph. I have no problems drip acclimating other fish I receive and they always make it. It's the leopard wrasses that don't seem too keen with the drip method.

 

[albano]

Well sad to say I found my potters belly up. Was kinda expecting it since it went side ways in the acclimation bucket while I was dripping it. How does everyone acclimate their wrasse? Seems I lose the wrasse in the bucket before it even enters the main tank. Lost a couple from drip acclimating already.

While all leopards are difficult...IMO, potters can be very difficult...

They may look 'healthy' at your LFS, but I doubt that they are eating or living in a stress free tank, and are actually getting more 'unhealthy' each day...

 

[Ralph ATL]

start out with a healthy fish and watch it eat before u grab it if it's local!

That's my wrasse QT tank...airstone, Seachem matrix rock that's been in my sump for 45 days, powerhead, etc...

I pre-treat all with prazi and antibiotics.


My QT salinity matches the water coming in, then with twice daily water changes, by the time it matches, it's acclimated.

Also, I'll feed 10-14 times a day in QT making sure it is gaining weight...

 

[michaelg]

Macropharyngodon geoffroy

Macropharyngodon geoffroy

Purchased at LFS in houston and flown to Bethesda
Kept 2+ years in 58G reeftank (established > 1yr) with a 30 gallon refuge tank. Gave it away when I had to move.
Introduced directly to tank.
Tankmates included fairy wrasse, copperbanded butterfly, mimic tang, and a mandarin.

 

[twon8]

Recent picture of my Kuiter's leopard

 

[Ralph ATL]

Recent picture of my Kuiter's leopard

awesome photo! looks like it might become a male or a female! lol

 

[smaraghy]

Hello,
I purchased two leopard wrasses a little over a month ago. I put them straight into my DT. I didnt want them to have to compete for food during initial feedings so i removed my other fish (2 ocellaris clownfish).
My question is: which is the best way to reintroduce my clownfish back to the display tank?
Return them at night, when the wrasses are in the sand?
Return them when the wrasses are out, so they see them before they settle in?
Or put the clowns in an acclimation box for a while to adjust to the leopards activity and then release the clowns?
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks

 

[Maxxingout]

Hello,
I purchased two leopard wrasses a little over a month ago. I put them straight into my DT. I didnt want them to have to compete for food during initial feedings so i removed my other fish (2 ocellaris clownfish).
My question is: which is the best way to reintroduce my clownfish back to the display tank?
Return them at night, when the wrasses are in the sand?
Return them when the wrasses are out, so they see them before they settle in?
Or put the clowns in an acclimation box for a while to adjust to the leopards activity and then release the clowns?
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks

I personally don't think you should have a problem with the clowns and wrasses. I have 2 wrasses also (melanurus wrasse and blue star leopard) I just added 2 firfish and they could care less.