Leopard Wrasse Primer

Leopard Wrasse Primer

  • Macropharyngodon bipartitus

    Votes: 67 28.4%
  • Macropharyngodon choati

    Votes: 12 5.1%
  • Macropharyngodon geoffroy

    Votes: 24 10.2%
  • Macropharyngodon meleagris

    Votes: 78 33.1%
  • Macropharyngodon negrosensis

    Votes: 29 12.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 26 11.0%

  • Total voters
    236
Day 3 and all 4 wrasses are still alive.
Although, one of the wrasses didn't pop out of the sand bed for a couple hours after the rest did.

After 24 hrs of methylene blue, did a water change and added some carbon to the back filter.
I plan on starting Prazipro tomorrow.

One is very aggressive. It was really visible when only 3 were out early this morning, but since the 4th came out the aggression is spread out more.
 
I have four now. One male vermiculite and two females and a large male ornate. The females and ornate come up mid day and the male vermiculite comes out each night at 11. They've been in my tank for a little over 2 weeks and eat mysis and frozen pods readily. By far some of my favorite fish.

They don't seem to hunt or eat well only when the blue LEDs are on, and they went straight into my DT. None of my previous attempts with a QT went well.


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New Wrasses

New Wrasses

I am thinking about adding 2 wrasses to my tank.1 Blue star female and a Leopard wrasse.Question i have for the many wrasse owners is about quarantine and how to do it.I know from reading many post about it there different thinking on how to do it.I do have a 55 gallon tank for quarantine.If i put the wrasses in the tank would i need separate sand containers for them or could i not use them all together?I do have PVC pieces in the tank and it is BB.Any help would help me in deciding what to do.
 
I see the value in QT for a lot of fish. In my experience, I've lost every single leopard in a "proper" leopard qt. plopped straight into DT and they all survive. And eat!!!
 
Any idea why that happens to Leopards?Last time i didn't quarantine fish i lost every fish in the DT.


A proper leopard qt closely mimics the eventual DT it goes in to, i.e. Full of sand and live rocks for pod hunting while it acclimates to captive living, not the typical bare bottom qt with pipes and stuff. The key to getting these wrasses to be successful and alive is getting them to eat. Sadly of all the leopards that have died because of my attempts (think 6+ or so), I don't think I've ever seen them with external parasites (I.e. Ich, but very possible). I feel they died from the transport and acclimation process and lack of eating.

So even with 10-20 lbs of live rock let's say (assuming a small qt) it provides some eats for the leopards, but wrasses can decimate a pod population on that little of rock easily, in short time, unless it's continually replenished. Eventually you'll be turning it on to stuff like mysis or frozen pods, so weening them on to frozen foods.

So far my only successes with these leopards, albeit short time, has been throwing them into my DT.
- they eat- ALOT. In QT for whatever reason, with established rock and sterile water and equipment they all died. I don't know if it's the competition for food, hunger, movement of the water, but they go nuts for frozen pods and mysis during feeding time. What sucks for me is my male vermiculite gets up at 10 pm and the others are up and around at about 2-4 PM so I have to feed the tank twice which I normally never do. Unless one has a qt strictly for stuff like this, which I don't see many of us having, it seems tough. Seems like you have to set up a qt like this 2-3 months in advance for a leopard :)

-they appear more and stay longer in the open. In my trials, in the qt they seldom came up and when they did they came up to perish.

The only thing that seems consistent with treatment is using PP for the possibility of internal worms. The reading says they mainly come with them, but all of mine had full, fat bellies and very full bodies upon purchase. I've tried pp with them in qt to no success.

Of course ymmv but my four (2 female vermiculite, male, and male ornate) have done far better than my previous attempts. These are wonderful fish and my previous attempts swore me off of trying them again, until my buddy gets them cheap and and continually, weekly.

I guess Cali living has its perks sometimes.
 
i've got a leopard (macropharyn meleagris) since three weeks. took it over from someone who sold his tank.. he 's doing great .. eating everything mysis, pods, ocean plancton ..
my tank is 127 gallons.. and he is kept with species of paracheilinus, cirrhilabrus, yellow tang and chaetodon vagabundus and some blennies.I just love leopards!!! next week there will be another one macropharyngodon choati...
 

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Once you get leopards acclimated, or buy one from a reefer who's done all the work, they can be generally quite hardy (choati excepted). I've had the most success using a QT tank that's setup as a full mini reef. Understand that most folks don't have this kind of QT.
 
Well, just made it through 3450 comments...

Perhaps after reading about so many experiences I could be blurring the lines but, from what I've gathered, there aren't too many people with DT that are 180 gallons or less having long-term success with dominant males tolerating other males from different species--especially when the other species appears to be a female that is transitioning to a male after being together for months before the aggression started towards the female/transitioning male.

Where I did notice long(er) term success with multiple males from multiple species occurred in larger DT around 210-400+ that were mature--more coral growth. They also seemed to have larger fish loads that could disperse the aggression.

I have a 210, which puts me right on the border, and, as of now, am planning on adding two female Meleagris (two small ones and let them figure it out) and may call it quits there on the genus unless given good reason to do otherwise. I'd love to have a single Potters and Ornate as well but don't want to try something that is doomed for the sake of my own entertainment at the detriment of the fish.

Any thoughts from those with long-term success with multiple males with multiple species in smaller tanks would be nice to hear from (you may have already shared your experience and I either missed it or the DT size wasn't listed). Thoughts from failures (due to aggression) could be even more helpful.

Thanks
Mike
 
i've got a leopard (macropharyn meleagris) since three weeks. took it over from someone who sold his tank.. he 's doing great .. eating everything mysis, pods, ocean plancton ..

my tank is 127 gallons.. and he is kept with species of paracheilinus, cirrhilabrus, yellow tang and chaetodon vagabundus and some blennies.I just love leopards!!! next week there will be another one macropharyngodon choati...


Good luck on the Choati (in a good way).

I haven't seen too many success stories with them and even though I'm fairly close to the wholesalers here in so cal, not too many people run across them for sale, but recently a buddy of mine said he saw 15 for sale at $130 each (his price to his customers).

They're so nice
 
Good luck on the Choati (in a good way).

I haven't seen too many success stories with them and even though I'm fairly close to the wholesalers here in so cal, not too many people run across them for sale, but recently a buddy of mine said he saw 15 for sale at $130 each (his price to his customers).

They're so nice

yeah they are nice but i love the meleagris too .. in the netherlands in import were 9 of the choati's... what i hear is that they already in QT for 2 weeks... my local shop wants one for the showtank and he brings one for me too... (still 6 in stock) price was about 152 $ he said. (shopprice)
 
well i finally got my choati wrasse since yesterday... no stress sign at all in the shop.. was swimming into a coraltank with a larger one...
i did acclimating for about 2 hours and was thinking to put the wrasse apart in a small plastic tank into the maintank but because there were still no stress sign i did her straight away in the maintank (127 gallons) still no stress and no hiding at all... she swom around picking at the stones .. looking for the compagny of my other leopard meleagris and stayed all the time with the other.. not scared of the other fishes.. tang, butterfly, etc...
Around 9 pm she was looking for a sleeping place.. tried some spots but the sand was not deep enough for her i guess so around 9.30pm she went into the sand at the backside where the sand is deeper...
This morning i was wondering if she would came out and yes she was unstressed swimming around with all... so i tried some food out ... krill, mysis, and artemia.. krill she left alone .. but she was eating mysis and artemia also ocean plancton of fauna marin she is crazy on...
 

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well i finally got my choati wrasse since yesterday... no stress sign at all in the shop.. was swimming into a coraltank with a larger one...
i did acclimating for about 2 hours and was thinking to put the wrasse apart in a small plastic tank into the maintank but because there were still no stress sign i did her straight away in the maintank (127 gallons) still no stress and no hiding at all...
Best of luck with it, but... 2 hour acclimation? IMO much worse for fish than no acclimation... and if you're not going to QT a new fish, at least use an acclimation box to observe it for a while
 
Why is a two hr acclimation much worse?

Ammonia build up. When fish are bagged they produce waste, but the CO2 they respirate can't escape and it drops the ph of the water. Below 6.5 and the harmful effects of ammonia are neutralized. When the bag is opened the CO2 can be released, the ph rises, and ammonia toxicity continues. The fish also continues to produce waste, so ammonia levels rise. Exposure to ammonia can permanently damage a fish's gills.
 
Ammonia build up. When fish are bagged they produce waste, but the CO2 they respirate can't escape and it drops the ph of the water. Below 6.5 and the harmful effects of ammonia are neutralized. When the bag is opened the CO2 can be released, the ph rises, and ammonia toxicity continues. The fish also continues to produce waste, so ammonia levels rise. Exposure to ammonia can permanently damage a fish's gills.

the fish came from a local shop here.. was 1 hour in the bag from shop to home...she was in quarantaine for a few weeks in the shop ...so i don't see any problems with it... she is doing well .. swimming around and she eats very good... no sign of stressing .. she slept last night into the sand and came out this morning ...
movie is couple of hours after releasing later in the evening

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDVr9D3cAiQ&feature=youtu.be
 
Miranda - what kind of substrate is that? it seems quite coarse and I'd be concerned with long term considerations of health with the fish, their mouth, and diving behavior contributing to succumbing to ailments.
 
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