Nice corals, pictures are very nice, wish I could take them as well as you. I just got a Bali mari piece that looks like your papillare. I have it high getting blasted by my T5's and it is bright blue with some yellow on the inside edge of some corallites, really looking nice so far. It is maybe 10 inches from my lights.Your tank looks great.
Nice shots!
I like the first one with the blue body and burgundy polyps.
Looks like that wild Aussie colony has major potential.
:facepalm: At least there should be a frag for you in the future, and regardless you got some beautiful pieces.
Subscribed!!!!
Looks like I found your thread.
wow amazing job! nice to a fellow canadian ; )
Glad to hear things are coming together!
I use the IPEX VXE true union ball valves and it includes both slip and threaded fittings.
I get them locally from Noble Trade.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=80888&catid=853
I added the Pintail Wrasse to the display last night after lights out. This morning I didn't see him, but as soon as I fed the tank he showed up for breakfast. He's swimming around, but definitely hanging out by the powerheads because the Royal Gramma is harassing him. I'll be watching like a hawk today to make sure the RG isn't being too much of a jerk or he will have to go. The RG didn't bother the Yellow Coris (H chrysus) at all when he was added a few weeks ago, bu the YC is bigger than the Pintail. The Pintail is much smaller than the RG. Of course this is after yesterday when I exclaimed to a friend that my RG was a model citizen, unlike his. Of course, right?! :facepalm:
Unfortunately, the Flavo Anthias didn't make it through PraziPro treatment. The Prazi caused the Anthias to be anorexic, and even though I moved him out of the medication, he didn't recover. Even more unfortunate is that I ordered two more while the Anthias was still doing well, and they'll show up next week. So far, I haven't had any Anthias make it through my PraziPro treatment - they go downhill right away. I'll have to rethink my treatment protocol.
I traded some frags with a friend yesterday and came home with Andrew's favorite - the Green Dragon! Also, a Lime in the Sky stag and a very pretty unidentified Acro from a Bali mariculture piece. I'll take some pics when the white lights come on.
Yesterday I finally climbed up in the attic and got the lights hung from the ceiling since I gave up on my hanging brackets. Finally the tank looks finished. Now all that is left is to organize the dry side of the sump area - cords need to controlled and the ADJ powerbars need to be mounted. Oh, and I still have to redo the return plumbing from the pump to the bulkhead and replace the QuietOne with the Eheim and get that tee installed so I can use the return pump to fill my buckets for WCs instead of pulling water from the display. The hold up there is that I can't find any 3/4" SCH80 ball valves with slip/socket ends.
Try medicating the food with prazipro by soaking it. Also add a garlic extract like Kent garlic extreme. I find my QTed anthias always did best that way.
Oh, I forgot to mention that the Royal Gramma is accepting the Pintail now. The Pintail still hangs out near the powerheads mostly, but the RG isn't so alert to the Pintail now.
Do they get enough of the PraziPro just by soaking it? I do have some mash that has PraziPro in it, but the Anthias won't eat it.
If you're treating internal parasites then you would need about 2tsp of Hikari Prazi per 100g of food. It should be sufficient to treat anything internal. With garlic they might not like it but they'll probably eat it.
.chris. said:What's your qt protocol? Mine calls for Prazi during the last week of qt so that they can go right into the display where they'll be more receptive to eating even if they stopped during Prazi. I also qt for 6 weeks total so they're usually very accustomed to eating well by the time Prazi hits.
Well, I would suggest lengthening your QT process, as Copper is only effective if treated for a minimum of 4 weeks, given the life cycle of the theront stage of Cryptocaryon irritans. The life cycles of valvet and brook are similar, or shorter, so they will be eradicated during the same period. Prazi can be used during the cupramine phase with no ill effect. The level of cupramine must be maintained between 0.45mg/L and 0.55mg/L. Above is extremely harmful, and below is ineffective. I recommend the Hanna High Range Copper Photometer to test, and it should be checked daily, and adjusted.Yes, I use 12 mL PraziPro for 100 grams of mash. The mash has some extra garlic to help mask the flavor. All my fish in the display eat it, but I haven't been able to get any Anthias in the QT to eat it (nor non-medicated mash either).
My quarantine process is a bit different depending which type of fish. For the Anthias, I've had them in the QT for 1 week, then add Cupramine for 2 weeks, remove the copper, and then add PraziPro for a week, remove the Prazi and into the display. Except none of the Anthias have made it to the display. The first group of Ignitus Anthias came down with a bacterial infection halfway through the PraziPro which didn't respond to the Furan 2 I tried. They seemed to be doing ok with the PraziPro until the infection moved in.
Well, I would suggest lengthening your QT process, as Copper is only effective if treated for a minimum of 4 weeks, given the life cycle of the theront stage of Cryptocaryon irritans. The life cycles of valvet and brook are similar, or shorter, so they will be eradicated during the same period. Prazi can be used during the cupramine phase with no ill effect. The level of cupramine must be maintained between 0.45mg/L and 0.55mg/L. Above is extremely harmful, and below is ineffective. I recommend the Hanna High Range Copper Photometer to test, and it should be checked daily, and adjusted.
But regarding the anthias...which species have you tried keeping? Flavo Anthias are near impossible to keep, right there with Ventralis. Maybe 1 in 5 survive, if you're lucky? They just don't take well to captivity, rarely eat. Maybe try something a little less finicky?
If you're set on keeping them, then I have a couple of suggestions. QT them with a group of fish that are extremely good eaters, like squammapinnis. The good eaters will encourage the difficult ones. The other option is make sure they eat before you buy them. Whenever we receive difficult fish in our store, I always mix them in with good eaters so they're eating well before they depart. I won't sell a fish that's not eating, because if it doesn't eat at the LFS, the chances of it eating after being moved a second time in two weeks (or second and third time, if you QT them) after being flown in from the other side of the world is...nil. Or almost nil anyway. Anthias are tough. Love them myself, but I stick with easy ones because I don't want to be heartbroken.
For bacterial infections, I prefer a mix of nitrofurazone (Furan-2), metronidazole (Metroplex) and kanamycin (Kanaplex). This combination is not contraindicated, and is an extremely effective broad spectrum antibiotic. 5 to 7 day treatment, Prazi is fine mixed in, but not advised. Copper should not be mixed with it.
Also keep in mind that copper is immunosuppressive, so they are very likely to get an infection during or right after a copper treatment. I prefer to do one week with no meds to get them eating well, then prazi the first week of copper treatment, with a week of observation after copper is over for this reason.
My Pintail jumped out!!!!! :sad2: I have no idea how it got out. :headwally: It doesn't fit through the weir. It doesn't fit through the screen mesh. The screen wasn't off. The only thing I can think of is that it jumped out when I lifted the front of the screen to put food in, but I would think I'd notice that.
RIP Pintail.