Myka's 69 SPS Tank 2015

[Myka]

I'm getting really frustrated with the Bubble Algae in the tank lately. I added a Long-Spine Urchin a week ago, and two more Emerald Crabs. They are about 6 Emerald Crabs in there now. I'm going to add either a tiny Naso or a tiny Rabbitfish as a temporary inhabitant as soon as I find a nice small one. Hopefully one of these things will strike up an appetite. You'll also notice there is significant growth of a very bright burgundy-red algae in the tank. I'm not entirely sure if it is a type of coralline or if it is a turf algae. I thought for a long time that it was coralline since I've seen it in this color often, but I'm starting to think it's a turf. The Urchin likes it though, so hopefully he can trim it back to a more manageable amount. Neither of these algae are new, they've been ongoing issues for many many months, and I just never really tried to do much about it.

I've been experimenting with a slightly higher alkalinity level since my corals have darkened.

SG 35 ppt
Ca 410-420
Alk 7.8-8.0
Mg (haven't tested in months)
K 420 (according to Salifert, which Triton read 60 ppm lower)
NO3 0.25
PO4 4 ppb, 0.012 ppm

Current dosing:
After lights out I turn off the skimmer, add 1/4 tso Reef Roids, 2 scoops Reef Chili, 2.5 mL Xtra, 3 drops Sponge Power.
An hour before lights on I turn on the skimmer, add 2.25 mL Coral Snow.
Fish are fed NLS pellets top dressed with wild salmon oil and astaxanthin 2x per day, and homemade human-grade mash 2x per day.

Did the pohls xtra ever end up causing white snot stuff or do anything to the little bit of cyano you said you had?

Not at all. The little bit of green cyano has actually decreased, but I started using Coral snow at the same time I started Xtra. I have been needing to clean the glass every second day though. Lots of diatoms on the sand and glass. No increased in dissolved nutrients.

 

[Ucantwin]

You always hear about diatoms only being a new tank issue then go away not to be seen anymore. A couple of weeks ago I did some large water changes and got diatoms again also. Wonder what could be causing them for you.

 

[Oldude]

This humilis is stupid bright. It doesn't matter what's going on in the tank, it always looks at least half decent. I'm waiting for it to start growing though.

I have one just like that and it is a slow grower

 

[Myka]

You always hear about diatoms only being a new tank issue then go away not to be seen anymore. A couple of weeks ago I did some large water changes and got diatoms again also. Wonder what could be causing them for you.

Probably the massive amount of nutrients I'm dumping in.

I have one just like that and it is a slow grower

This one is from your tank.

 

[reefmutt]

Hey Mindy, algea issues aside, the corals are looking great! I guess that's the trade off.. more nutrient to make the corals happy also makes the nuisance algea happy..
What a difference over the past month or so.
I'd love to see that CC red acro again.
Yep, that Aussie 'echinata' ain't even close. But it's nice anyways. Looks kind of like a tennuis to me. Great pe.

 

[sahin]

Those acros are looking very yummy. :thumbsup: That OP is looking amazing. Were the polyps always yellow? What PAR level do you have it at? Thanks.

 

[Oldude]

This one is from your tank.

I thought so but didn't want to be presumptuous.

 

[Greentree]

I just spend the better part of the work day reading this - what a great thread, and BEAUTIFUL corals and tank! I'm very inspired! Mindy - thank you for your help with the issues I've mentioned in my thread. Your input is so appreciated.

I've been considering the switch to Aquaforest and this makes me want to order. Overall, would you recommend? I imagine I would start with 1+2+3+, Coral A, Coral V, and NP Pro since I have a decent level of N and P now. Thoughts?

Edit: *And AF Reef Salt

 

[markalot]

Fantastic pics ... didn't see any bubble algae, my focus is in the acros.

I occasionally dose some Pohls extra super duper special but I'm not sure what's in it and never really noticed any difference. Maybe my nutrients are too high to notice.

 

[plyle02]

Mindy,
Corals look super healthy and very colorful. I see some nice growth as well, awesome stuff Mindy, great update

 

[Myka]

Sorry guys, I'm not getting email alerts for replies to this thread...

Hey Mindy, algea issues aside, the corals are looking great! I guess that's the trade off.. more nutrient to make the corals happy also makes the nuisance algea happy..
What a difference over the past month or so.
I'd love to see that CC red acro again.
Yep, that Aussie 'echinata' ain't even close. But it's nice anyways. Looks kind of like a tennuis to me. Great pe.

Thanks Matt, they've really turned around! Stoyan (biom) says Pohl's Xtra is ammonia, nitrate, and aminos. It seems to be the magic ingredient.

I took some pics last night, but focus was really off, and only a couple were actually in focus. Even my FTS were out of focus. Not sure what happened. The Aussie "echinata" has now browned out, which I expected it would since it was soooo bleached, and has less PE. I don't think it's a tenuis because the branches are really thick (hard to gauge in photos sometimes), but I guess when it starts to grow the "captive" growth will be a telltale. Look at that Aussie microclados/nasuta - new captive growth is waaaay different than the wild growth.

Those acros are looking very yummy. :thumbsup: That OP is looking amazing. Were the polyps always yellow? What PAR level do you have it at? Thanks.

Thanks Sahin! The polyps on the OP went through a green stage, a real ugly orange-green stage, like pukey olive green. Thankfully that didn't stick around. The polyps are golden orange though, not yellow. Even though it's high in the tank, it's off to the side of the fixture, so it's getting about 270-280 PAR there if I'm reading my hand-drawn PAR map correctly. I should re-test.

I thought so but didn't want to be presumptuous.

Haha! I had it mounted in a different spot awhile back, and it threw down a base real fast, and then was stagnant. I moved it a few months back to its current location because the Aussie microclados/nasuta was threatening it, and it again threw down a base quickly. It's just started to show a couple new nubs, so maybe it will grow soon. The new nutrients in the tank should help too.

I just spend the better part of the work day reading this - what a great thread, and BEAUTIFUL corals and tank! I'm very inspired! Mindy - thank you for your help with the issues I've mentioned in my thread. Your input is so appreciated.

I've been considering the switch to Aquaforest and this makes me want to order. Overall, would you recommend? I imagine I would start with 1+2+3+, Coral A, Coral V, and NP Pro since I have a decent level of N and P now. Thoughts?

Edit: *And AF Reef Salt

Thank you for taking the time to read it all! This tank has caused me more grief (low nutrients) than any tank in my life (I have an aquarium service company too, thankfully it's my own tank that causes me grief lol), and I've been really frustrated with it. I'm happy I've found the "magic ingredient" now.

Here is my take from using the Aquaforest products, just my opinion. If you need to lower N use -NP Pro, ProBioS, and Zeolites. If you need to lower P use Phos Minus. If you don't need to lower these, do not use these products (exception is ProBioS which I think can be used in any tank). If you need to increase N and P, use the Coral (Amino Mix, Vitality, Energy, Build) products. If you don't need to increase N and P, don't use these products. The Components 1+2+3+ (or the mix yourself version) can be used on any tank.

Fantastic pics ... didn't see any bubble algae, my focus is in the acros.

I occasionally dose some Pohls extra super duper special but I'm not sure what's in it and never really noticed any difference. Maybe my nutrients are too high to notice.

Haha Mark, you must be blind! Bubble Algae is everywhere! However, a couple weeks ago I added a Long Spine Urchin and he is eating the Bubble Algae and also the burgundy-colored turf algae. So last week I decided the help the urchin out, so I got in there and manually removed about 90% of it. Hopefully, I can get ahead of it now.

I'm just using the regular Xtra, not super duper Special mix. :lol: See below, I'm posting up my latest parameter testing results.

Mindy,
Corals look super healthy and very colorful. I see some nice growth as well, awesome stuff Mindy, great update

Hi Perry, yes finally some growth. It's still not where it needs to be though. Thank you for the comments.

 

[Myka]

Talking with Stoyan (biom) in my tank thread on a different forum *cough* R 2 R *cough*, he says Pohl's Xtra is ammonia, nitrate, and aminos. Whatever it is, it sure has made a huge difference in my tank. Stoyan also suggested that turning the skimmer off in a tank that is highly-fed is a bad idea, which I agree with, but so far I haven't seen any ill effects. However, he did remind me that I wanted to figure out a "spray cap" for the skimmer neck so I could leave it running overnight without the cup on, and not have it spray all over and get the stand (and my floors) all wet. All this time I figured I would have to fabricate something, but a turned over sandwich container with a piece of rubble on top did the trick. Stoyan also suggested I quit all the food input except the Xtra, so I'll take his advice and give it a shot. I wasn't sure I noticed any difference from using the Reef Chili, Reef Roids, and Sponge Power anyway. So as of last night the only things going into the tank are Components 1+2+3+ (40 mL per day), Pohl's Xtra (2.5 mL nightly), and ProBioS (3 drops nightly Mondays and Fridays). I want to dose Coral Snow still, maybe once a week rather than daily?

So here's the NEW current feeding schedule:

0700 turn skimmer on Mondays and Fridays add 3 drops ProBioS (continue Coral Snow additions?).
0830 lights on
0900 homemade frozen mash
1200 NLS pellets top dressed with wild Salmon oil and astaxanthin in auto feeder.
1500 more pellets
1800 frozen mash
2000 frozen mash
2030 lights off
2100 turn off skimmer, add 2.5 mL Xtra.

Current fish:
2 Onyx Clowns, A. percula (breeding)
1 Pelicier's Perchlet, P. pelicieri
1 Royal Gramma, G. loreto (might remove him, he's a jerk)
1 Panamic Barnacle Blenny, A. hancocki
1 Johnson's Fairy Wrasse, C. johnsoni

These three are in the tank now, but I'm removing them after Christmas, will have to take the rock out to get them. They are too smart for the trap.
1 Tomini Tang, C. tominiensis (needs bigger home)
1 Yellow Coris, H. chrysus (needs bigger home)
1 Pajama Cardinal S. nematoptera (he's going in a client tank that has a shoal of Pajamas, he'll be happier there)

Future additions:
3-4 Anthias, prob vary the species
1 Bell's Flasher Wrasse, C. bellae
1 Candy Basslet, L. carmabi

Anyone interested in the homemade mash, here's my recipe:

White shrimp (shells on) 500 g
Wild Pacific salmon 200 g
Green Lipped Mussels 200 g
Squid 100 g
Flying Fish Roe 15 g
Florida Aqua Farms vitamins 10 g
Nori (green, dry) 5-8 g
Wild Salmon Oil 5000 mg
Hawaiian Astaxanthin 600 mg
Florida Aqua Farms Gelatin 50 g

Yesterday I did the weekly 10-gallon water change using Aquaforest Probiotic Reef Salt, and tested parameters before the change:

SG 34 ppt (I adjusted this to 35 ppt during the water change)
Ca 415, 425 (old Salifert, new Salifert)
Alk 148/144 ppm, 8.28/8.06 dKH (Hanna, old reagent, new reagent)
Alk 7.85 dKH (Salifert)
Mg 1240 ppm (Red Sea Pro)
Mg 1200 ppm (Salifert...this kit read 134 ppm lower than Triton in August)
K 390 ppm (Salifert...this kit read 60 ppm higher than Triton in August) I added 10 g Potassion-P which should raise about 20 ppm.
PO4 6 ppb, 0.018 ppm (Hanna ULR)
NO3 1-1.5 ppm (Red Sea Pro)
NO3 ~ 2.5 ppm (Salifert)

I am so happy! This is the highest nitrate reading I've ever seen in this tank. I'm also pleased that the P continues to be quite low after all this food influx. Once every 6-8 weeks I do a big testing like this with numerous kits. Otherwise I just test alkalinity with both Hanna and Salifert every 2 weeks or so. I'm going to do another Triton test as soon as I remember to grab a kit from the LFS.

I was keeping alkalinity in the 6.8-7.0 dKH range for the entire life of the tank, and was recently thinking to try a slightly higher alkalinity to see if I could spur some better growth rates. Between Oct 4th and Nov 14th alkalinity slowly rose to 8.9/8.6 dKH (Hanna/Salifert) because of my lack of testing. I figured this was certainly too high though so I cut the dosers back and dropped it down to 7.96 dKH (Salifert) by the 18th. I decided to stay at this spot, and that's where I am today too. Corals were visually unaffected by the slow alkalinity spike thankfully!

 

[Myka]

Sorry guys...so many words, so few pics! I took a bunch of pics last night, but the focus was off, and the pics are "poop".

 

[markalot]

Interesting that the regular Pohls contains ammonia but it makes sense, bacto balance I think does the same thing. In the planted tank world it's said that plants actually prefer their N in ammonia form so adding small amounts probably duplicates what tanks with a large number of fish experience.

I wonder what is special about extra special?

Maybe I'll get some regular Phols for my smaller tank with just a few fish.

 

[Myka]

Interesting that the regular Pohls contains ammonia but it makes sense, bacto balance I think does the same thing. In the planted tank world it's said that plants actually prefer their N in ammonia form so adding small amounts probably duplicates what tanks with a large number of fish experience.

I wonder what is special about extra special?

Maybe I'll get some regular Phols for my smaller tank with just a few fish.

Hi Mark, ammonia certainly makes sense. Fish urine. Did you see this article? http://www.washington.edu/news/2016...r-pee-are-key-parts-of-coral-reef-ecosystems/

The Xtra Special is supposed to be specifically designed for use in low nutrient tanks with pale corals, which is what my tank was for so long, but the regular Xtra seems to do the trick. I'd like to try out the Special blend.

 

[Myka]

Here's one of the better FTS I took last night. The colors are a bit "meh" in the photo. I'll have to try tweaking a bit...

Streaker:

Polyps have been minty-white, but now a limey-greeny-yellowy. Not sure what it's up to. The skin still looks patchy on it. Has big polyps for a "deepwater", and seems happy.

Sorry, that's all I got guys...

 

[markalot]

I like the pics!

Great article, I missed that. I'm on a dropper binge, I order 12 dropper bottles to make dosing things easier, so I'll load up one with Phols Extra Special and start at a couple of drops a day to see what happens. My smaller tank will drift down to 0, 0 POR and NO3 if I don't feed reef roids and either dose AcroPower or CaNO3 on a regular basis.

 

[Myka]

I like the pics!

Great article, I missed that. I'm on a dropper binge, I order 12 dropper bottles to make dosing things easier, so I'll load up one with Phols Extra Special and start at a couple of drops a day to see what happens. My smaller tank will drift down to 0, 0 POR and NO3 if I don't feed reef roids and either dose AcroPower or CaNO3 on a regular basis.

Well, I took 50 photos, and that's all I got that is decent. Well, actually the OP was probably the best photo, but I have enough pics of it posted. :lol:

I think that article was posted on Reef Builders or Coral mag maybe? I can't remember where I found it, but I know it was a different site that was hosting it. Interesting article either way, and I like how this particular version of the article links to the studies.

You do realize I am dozing 2.5 mL in my tank, not "drops", right?

 

[kevlow]

I am very interested in the fact that your long spine urchin is eating the burgundy turf algae. Is this a new hit or miss type thing or does he regularly chow down on the stuff?

When I put a light down in my sump I got green bubble algae. I have had minor amounts of burgundy turf algae always. but when I went to an all AF program the BTA increased substantially. It is pretty difficult to remove manually.
I am willing to try a long spine urchin in the display and if he does his job I will put him in the sump for the bubble algae. Then he can return to his buddies at the local fish shop until time for another Call of Duty.

 

[Myka]

I am very interested in the fact that your long spine urchin is eating the burgundy turf algae. Is this a new hit or miss type thing or does he regularly chow down on the stuff?

When I put a light down in my sump I got green bubble algae. I have had minor amounts of burgundy turf algae always. but when I went to an all AF program the BTA increased substantially. It is pretty difficult to remove manually.
I am willing to try a long spine urchin in the display and if he does his job I will put him in the sump for the bubble algae. Then he can return to his buddies at the local fish shop until time for another Call of Duty.

It seems in my tank, this particular urchin actually has preference for the burgundy turf algae (well, actually he ate some red macroalgae I had on a plug first lol). The only green algae in my tank is Bubble Algae, and the only brown algae I have is diatoms. He prefers the burgundy turf over the Bubble Algae. I've had the burgundy turf long before starting AF - I didn't notice an increase, or at least I didn't note it. Be aware though that Long Spine Urchins are troublemakers - in my experience they are only reef safe if they have lots of algae to eat. Once they get hungry they will usually turn to corals - mostly flubber (LPS). Acans are a fav. I also see them regularly mow down smaller species of Clove Polyps (Handy, it is. haha).