Oceanic Tech Tank Owners Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11620910#post11620910 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dsn112
Im hoping to set my 70 up this weekend. I am going to use a 1260 i got used for $70. I am going to dial it back with a ball valve.

Are you going to use the standard overflows? Or the herbie-method with return over the back?
 
standard, I want to keep my tank as concealed as possible as it is a show piece in my family room. I do however want to use one of those modified durso's that is quiet.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11621220#post11621220 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dsn112
standard, I want to keep my tank as concealed as possible as it is a show piece in my family room. I do however want to use one of those modified durso's that is quiet.

That's what I meant. The herbie method uses two drainpipes so you have to return around the back, but it's quiet. The standard pipes can be quite noisy I believe.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11621297#post11621297 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mdbrit
That's what I meant. The herbie method uses two drainpipes so you have to return around the back, but it's quiet. The standard pipes can be quite noisy I believe.
The Herbie method uses two drains, one completely submerged and one as an emergency backup. The submerged drain works without letting any air enter the plumbing, which reduces noise and increases max flow. JGross4 used the Herbie method on his 70g Tech with great (silent) results, but had to run the return behind the tank since all the overflow bulkheads were used as drains. IMO, the pre-drilled holes in the eurobracing are begging for a return to be plubmed over the top of the tank and through the holes.
 
I keep looking at the holes in the euro-bracing and envision all these elaborate return possibilities.
Just for kicks and because if I don't make a start it'll never get off the ground, I'm going to use the standard plumbing to begin with. I'll see then how noisy it is and how much flow I'm getting etc. Then I'll look to switching to the herbie method and do something fancy with the returns in the euro-bracing.
 
I read somewhere, it might be from MELEV. From the return, say a foot up you put in a Y. One continues to the tank, the other returns to the sump. On the line that returns to the sump, you put the ball valve. You close it until you have the proper flow to the tank. You do this so there isn't any strain on the pump

Marty


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11620910#post11620910 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dsn112
Im hoping to set my 70 up this weekend. I am going to use a 1260 i got used for $70. I am going to dial it back with a ball valve.
 
Marty, I dunno, if you look at his 20l build he doesn't mention that. I am doing it like this.

Pump-Union-Ball Valve-Check Valve-Return tubing.

Brit, I got the Nova Extreme Today. Seeing it in person sold me. I am going to upgrade the bulbs though.

The place I was at toofishy.com sells there own standpipes that are supposed to be silent. It was $15 so I bought one. I think I am going to try it.
They had a 120 tech in the store with all 4 holes as drains, the the sump externally plumbed to a pump and then y'd off into two return pipes, one on each side of the eurobracing, and they were used like powerheads. It was really cool.
 
I liked the looks of the orbits also, plus they have built-in fans. The Tek apparently has better reflectors and if you're replacing all the bulbs then the price difference wasn't as big. I'm sure they'll both be good, the Tek certainly seems to be bright.

I need to play around with bulbs and their order also. The two outside bulbs are the dusk lamps, with the four middle ones on a different switch for daytime. Not sure what I prefer yet. The fixture looks great on the tank though and I love the idea of being able to tailor the colors to suit.

I definitely want to do something with the euro-bracing returns eventually. I'm wondering if I should get a 1250 pump now or just get a 1260 with the idea of T-ing off the returns at some point and using a ball-valve. I like the idea of those wavemaker alternating returns and I know they restrict the flow, requiring a stronger pump. I think the 1250 will be fine as a simple return but probably under-powered for anything more elaborate.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11623857#post11623857 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by martinphillip03
I read somewhere, it might be from MELEV. From the return, say a foot up you put in a Y. One continues to the tank, the other returns to the sump. On the line that returns to the sump, you put the ball valve. You close it until you have the proper flow to the tank. You do this so there isn't any strain on the pump

Marty

I've seen people successfully limit the return pump's flow both ways. In fact, some pumps (Ex: Reeflo Dart) boast about conserving power by using a valve to limit their flow output. However, I don't know if that applies to all pumps.
Personally, I plan on using something like this, except using a T instead of an elbow, which is essentially what Marty described. I figure this has 2 functions- to reduce return flow if needed and also I can put the end of the pipe into a container and open up the valve to pump out water from the sump during water changes.
Here's a sketch of how I plan on plumbing my return:
ReturnPlumbing.jpg

I'm not 100% sure on if I want to keep the ball valve, or if I should use a ball valve instead of the gate valve, but the pic shows the general concept.
 
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ehiem claims that they use less power with a ball valve too.

Brit, I like Tek a little better, but want a streamline look, and like the internal fans on the nova, its about 120 less if I replace all the bulbs, I like the bulbs with it actually.
 
Nice MD, i am going to lowes today to pick up a few final plumbing piecies. I already have my stand pipe and return pipe and bullheads in. I plan to have it fully ready for water by monday.
Monday my rk2 is coming so I want to be able to mount everything while being able to remove my sump if need be.
 
Cool, I'll be interested to see your plumbing. I discovered that a 1250 is the only Eheim that will fit in the end compartment of my sump, so that's what I'll be getting!
 
Nice, I made a 6"x12" return section and the 1260 fits well. I will take pics of everything for you.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11629226#post11629226 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dsn112
Nice, I made a 6"x12" return section and the 1260 fits well. I will take pics of everything for you.

So your return is up into the bulkheads? I'm still thinking I'll try that to start with but if it's at all noisy, I'll change to the Herbie method.
 
On my 120 I used the supplied Oceanic plumbing. It is totally silent, except for a very slight waterfall sound as the water rushes into the overflow. I can even silence that if I don't use the supplied overflow cover and raise the overflow pipes to minimize the distance the water falls. I like a small waterfall for the oxygenation effect.

Joe
 
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